Whiteline aftermarket end links too long?

absolude

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Wheel on for removal/install is an unnecessary struggle for sure comparing to raise/lower car to remove/install wheels. Its choosing redundant steps over struggling getting to the top mounting points through narrow gap between wheel and fender or from bottom, unless you have small fingers along with long and skinny arms.

Good luck.
I should have looked before asking! I see what you mean.
Thanks a lot!
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KOIVUN1

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I have the Whiteline 26mm heavy-duty RSB + endlinks on my ā€˜17 Touring Sedan with otherwise stock suspension. I had that rear clunk after install too, and for my case I had to tighten the F out of the swaybar to endlink nut. This specific connection point is the cause of RSB clunks for MANY self-installs. That nut can take a lot of torque, and its positioning makes it exasperating to get in there with both the allen key and a box wrench.

Yeah, technically it is best to fully tighten under load and with your weight simulated in the driver seat, but I could not get enough clearance to work this way. So I just got it on a lift, used threadlock, and introduced it to my muscles.
how do you tighten it so much without twisting the allen key to all hell? the nuts that whiteline provided are crimped in a press to make them oval shaped which does the same thing as a nylon lock nut or a toothed locking nut. when tightening the nuts, because of their shape, it makes it difficult to tighten them very much. also i canā€™t even get a 1/6 turn with a wrench, i had to use the open end to tighten like 1/7 of a turn, then flip the wrench (like rolling a hot dog over) and then get another 1/7 turn in. royal pain in the rear end. i ended up buying a 17mm ratchet end wrench and even with that it still took 10 minutes per nut. any suggestions?
 
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how do you tighten it so much without twisting the allen key to all hell? the nuts that whiteline provided are crimped in a press to make them oval shaped which does the same thing as a nylon lock nut or a toothed locking nut. when tightening the nuts, because of their shape, it makes it difficult to tighten them very much. also i canā€™t even get a 1/6 turn with a wrench, i had to use the open end to tighten like 1/7 of a turn, then flip the wrench (like rolling a hot dog over) and then get another 1/7 turn in. royal pain in the rear end. i ended up buying a 17mm ratchet end wrench and even with that it still took 10 minutes per nut. any suggestions?
I faced the same exact wrench flipping thing and then just got a ratcheting one. As for the allen key, instead of letting it torque itself directly against the control arm and being near impossible to remove later, put something between the key and the control arm that you can just slide out later. It really is difficult to just hold the skinny allen key in place by hand.
 

Fit2Hatch

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how do you tighten it so much without twisting the allen key to all hell? the nuts that whiteline provided are crimped in a press to make them oval shaped which does the same thing as a nylon lock nut or a toothed locking nut. when tightening the nuts, because of their shape, it makes it difficult to tighten them very much. also i canā€™t even get a 1/6 turn with a wrench, i had to use the open end to tighten like 1/7 of a turn, then flip the wrench (like rolling a hot dog over) and then get another 1/7 turn in. royal pain in the rear end. i ended up buying a 17mm ratchet end wrench and even with that it still took 10 minutes per nut. any suggestions?
Oh my!

Food for thought:-

First off, physical attribute wise, OEM flanged fastener nut also has slight deformation to provide the "mechanical lock", along with a smooth washer face. But the Whiteline nut has serious pressed thread deformation, washer face also has serrations to provide, in theory, less rotation after tightening. It is rather cheaply made! Using Whiteline provided flanged nut will make tightening difficult, and serrations on washer face will destroy unpainted/painted surface on sway bar.

Both OEM and Whiteline flanged fastener can cause damage to interface during tighten/loosen process. However, Whiteline variety will caused the most serious damage, most often, when it is to be removed-catastrophic!

I prefer to use/reuse quality made OEM flanged lock nut, as well as able to reuse without iducing catastrophic binding during subsequent removal, so....

My method for OEM deformed flanged lock nut removal, is using anti-size before back out nut to minimize interference/damage. In case where OEM is not salvageable, use a new one, then, run a correct sized tap thru OEM nut to clean up the deformation and use blue locktite, along with correct sized washer(washer will provide both sacrificial contacting surface, as well as evenly distribute tightening force) on both side, sandwich sway bar during reassembly. Allow set time for locktite to cure post reassembly.

Have fun turning wrench!
 
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L8apex

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Probably too late at this point but I always recommend tightening the links to the rear bar before putting everything in as an assembly. You can always swivel and pivot the links around trying to maneuver the bar in there.
 


Fit2Hatch

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Probably too late at this point but I always recommend tightening the links to the rear bar before putting everything in as an assembly. You can always swivel and pivot the links around trying to maneuver the bar in there.
Maneuver bar in with links already installed would certainly be a challenge. Unless remove more interfering suspension components, which require an alignment afterward. And, generally, the more stuff you remove/reinstall, the more gremlin can/would be created!

I much prefer not using deformed fastener in any situation, which essentially damage mating threads permanently. I prefer using appropriate chemical lock such as Locktite instead in these simple situation. For more critical locking situation, such as on my C6's wheel spindle retaining nut, I use reusable Nord-Lock, an expensive 2 piece cam locking washer system to bypass chemical or nylock, split lock and other form for positive locking to prevent practically any and all loosening.

However, all depend on personal choice.
 

Fit2Hatch

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Probably too late at this point but I always recommend tightening the links to the rear bar before putting everything in as an assembly. You can always swivel and pivot the links around trying to maneuver the bar in there.
I came across this thread and realized I misunderstood your post. I was overly focused on the end link flange nut. I apologize!

After rear sway bar is loosely holding in position, I too install/torque adjustable rear end links on bar before install assembly into control arm, then, final install/torque sway bar.
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