Whiteline aftermarket end links too long?

koivuns

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I bought the Whiteline grip kit with the front and rear sway bars + end links, rsb install was pretty easy, only had to lift the car a little bit because of how much beefier the new rsb was compared to oem. Only problem is that the new end links clunk constantly over every bump. All nuts and bolts tightened to spec so my only guess is that they angle too far out and hit the control arm brace that is welded in for rigidity (presumably). Any ideas on what else it could be? I’d really appreciate the help.





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koivuns

koivuns

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so would that be what’s making the noise? like the end links smacking the control arm brace because they’re too long?
 

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yep i had the same issue. stock were too long, adjustable werent set right. make em as short as you can.
 
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koivuns

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yep i had the same issue. stock were too long, adjustable werent set right. make em as short as you can.
i got fed up with the clunking as i had already taken the sway bar out and regreased the bushings once before, so i stuck the stock ones back in, and if they break i’ll probably get some accord links or idk find some way to make the new ones work :/ thanks for the reply
 

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i bent the oem by hand. easily.
 

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Is the rear or the front end links that are clunking?
 
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koivuns

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Is the rear or the front end links that are clunking?
rear end links i put in a front strut bar and i have the front sway bar and end links but i haven’t put it in because i can’t drop the subframe solo. the rear sway bar is installed and the new adjustable end links installed as well. i hear clunks when i go over bumps and such, and i can’t deduce what is causing the bumps
 

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rear end links i put in a front strut bar and i have the front sway bar and end links but i haven’t put it in because i can’t drop the subframe solo. the rear sway bar is installed and the new adjustable end links installed as well. i hear clunks when i go over bumps and such, and i can’t deduce what is causing the bumps
Sorry to hear. I only have the Type R RSB and Accord end links on Si springs.
Waiting for the Whiteline front end links and the clunking report got me worried.
I don't have much hope for improvement with these but that was too much...
 

Fit2Hatch

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Sorry to hear. I only have the Type R RSB and Accord end links on Si springs.
Waiting for the Whiteline front end links and the clunking report got me worried.
I don't have much hope for improvement with these but that was too much...
My Hatch MT has Si springs, 22mm Whiteline + Accord end. links on rear and Whiteline front end links. Wheels are Gram Lights 18x8.5+37 mounted with Michelin PS4S in stock size.
So very similar to what you have. No noise after few hundred miles and the handling is incredible.

Its important to make sure suspension is at normal ride height during installation, so sway bar is not loaded.

Good luck.
 

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My Hatch MT has Si springs, 22mm Whiteline + Accord end. links on rear and Whiteline front end links. Wheels are Gram Lights 18x8.5+37 mounted with Michelin PS4S in stock size.
So very similar to what you have. No noise after few hundred miles and the handling is incredible.

Its important to make sure suspension is at normal ride height during installation, so sway bar is not loaded.

Good luck.
Great to hear. Hope for some improvement, to add to the front strut bar.
Thanks for the advice. So it's ramps or I have to take it to a shop for the install... I only have stands....
 

Fit2Hatch

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Great to hear. Hope for some improvement, to add to the front strut bar.
Thanks for the advice. So it's ramps or I have to take it to a shop for the install... I only have stands....
You can get around it by using spacer(two 2x10 stacked) under tire. Rear can be accomplished while wheels are on spacer.

Only thing for the front is rather redundant, first put a loaded weight to approximate driver, remove wheel, remove OEM links, install Whiteline links loosely, remount wheels, from underneath, reach in to attach/adjust new links and hand tight nuts, remove wheels then final torque link nuts and finish by reinstall wheels.

Good luck.
 

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You can get around it by using spacer(two 2x10 stacked) under tire. Rear can be accomplished while wheels are on spacer.

Only thing for the front is rather redundant, first put a loaded weight to approximate driver, remove wheel, remove OEM links, install Whiteline links loosely, remount wheels, from underneath, reach in to attach/adjust new links and hand tight nuts, remove wheels then final torque link nuts and finish by reinstall wheels.

Good luck.
Thanks!
The wheels can stay during removal of the stock front links?
Looking forward to this.
I remember your positive impression in the other thread...
 

Fit2Hatch

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Thanks!
The wheels can stay during removal of the stock front links?
Looking forward to this.
I remember your positive impression in the other thread...
Wheel on for removal/install is an unnecessary struggle for sure comparing to raise/lower car to remove/install wheels. Its choosing redundant steps over struggling getting to the top mounting points through narrow gap between wheel and fender or from bottom, unless you have small fingers along with long and skinny arms.

Good luck.
 
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I have the Whiteline 26mm heavy-duty RSB + endlinks on my ‘17 Touring Sedan with otherwise stock suspension. I had that rear clunk after install too, and for my case I had to tighten the F out of the swaybar to endlink nut. This specific connection point is the cause of RSB clunks for MANY self-installs. That nut can take a lot of torque, and its positioning makes it exasperating to get in there with both the allen key and a box wrench.

Yeah, technically it is best to fully tighten under load and with your weight simulated in the driver seat, but I could not get enough clearance to work this way. So I just got it on a lift, used threadlock, and introduced it to my muscles.
 

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