which engine oil do you guys using?

[Si_chRis]

@Si_chRis

do you have the part number for the Hamp filter?

It's H1540-RTA-515 that you can see in the pic. The oil filter is actually made by Roki Co in the USA, and exported for sale in Japan/other markets from what I read.

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[eee.ccc]

ah shit sorry i had my eyes on the blue thing and didnt look @ the box.
derp.

 

[FC3L15B7]

Hi!
Different heritage but same choice in oil.
Pre-dating all these iron buggies my Quaker family used the earlier product on their horse drawn wagons, even on the stallions, Before our time there was CASTRATE GTX, OW-4D Trotting Oil.

That's like the old horse power increase - castor oil to make the horses shit and run with more vigor the next morning!

 

[Centripetal]

Correct - Amsoil 0w-20 are API SN Plus.

My friend bought a quart of Castrol Edge (5qt jug, and 1 qt bottle) to do an oil change, and we noticed that the 1 qt bottle was perhaps an older bottle on the shelves because it was not API SN Plus. The two look identical, but they are different.

The purpose here is to simply show that some older bottles of Edge may not be SN Plus. This lack of certification is not going to destroy your engine, however, you want to always use what the engine requires, or can handle depending on your driving habits or environment. Castrol Edge now has API SN Plus versions on shelves, but as you can see, some older bottles are still in the inventory.


Because I have an oil catch can, I keep a spare bottle of Honda’s 0w-20 oil to top-off the oil levels throughout oil drain intervals. I don’t know which company manufactures it though.

Kendall makes the Honda Oil.
They use more Titanium than Moly.
From :Bob is the Oil Guy

Titanium chemically binds to wear surfaces creating a hard, Titanium based oxide layer which reduces friction, thereby reducing wear. Concentration levels vary greatly depending on oil brand.

 

[Centripetal]

Honda's oil is made by Mobil One.

Where did you get that information? Kendall makes Honda Oil. Just look at the similarities of the bottles.

If the fact that containers match this generation and the previous doesn’t convince you, the Virgin Oil Analysis matches.

 

[FC3L15B7]

The purpose here is to simply show that some older bottles of Edge may not be SN Plus. This lack of certification is not going to destroy your engine, however, you want to always use what the engine requires, or can handle depending on your driving habits or environment. Castrol Edge now has API SN Plus versions on shelves, but as you can see, some older bottles are still in the inventory.

Just so you're aware, it doesn't matter - the specification is API certified oil. It does not have to be SN or SN Plus, SM or SL. It just needs to have the API seal.

API SN, for example, just means it's approved API that meets exceeds everything for vehicles 2010 and newer. It's the "same" as ILSAC GF-5 (current standard) in regard to its necessary properties.

As for Honda's manual, it does not specify the API oil must be SN. They may assume all current oil on the shelves meets the minimum standard required. SN, SM, SL and SJ are all current standards:

SN - 2010 and newer
SM - 2010 and older
SL - 2004 and older
SJ - 2001 and older

Given this data, it stands to reason that SN is the required oil for a 10th gen 1.5L Civic, but the manual does not say.

 

[RepyT]

Noack volatility is one of the important things to consider in a DI engine. All oils will protect fine. Noack varies though.

the lowest Noack oils are
Mobil 1 0w-20 Annual Protection 8.9%
Amsoil 0w-20 SS 8.5% (was tested at 9.6% on Russian forum)
Amsoil 5w-20 SS 6%
Redline 5w-20 5.3%
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0w-20 10%

Noack-Noack!
Whose there?
What the.
What The Who?
What the heck is Noack?

Thanks, came in late, trying to understand but read less than all five pages.
Anything you can do to dumb this tech discussion down to consumer why doesn’t matter level appreciated.

So far I got buy certain brands with latest S_ lettering but any still works Gen-X.

I just get right weight & brand least dusty.
?

 

[jokacz]

Noack is a measure of volatility of motor oil. As oil gets hot in the crankcase a certain amount of it boils off as a vapor and this vapor condenses on the intake valves of DFI engines courtesy of the PCV valve. The less volatile, the lower the Noack percentage, the less deposits on the intake valves. Or so the theory goes.

 

[Centripetal]

Noack is a measure of volatility of motor oil. As oil gets hot in the crankcase a certain amount of it boils off as a vapor and this vapor condenses on the intake valves of DFI engines courtesy of the PCV valve. The less volatile, the lower the Noack percentage, the less deposits on the intake valves. Or so the theory goes.

Intake Valve Deposits (IVD) build up is not from oil vapors (Noack) its oil mist. Oil vapor (oil in gas phase) is very different than oil mist (oil in liquid phase) because its cleaner (distilled). Consequently, it is the contaminates in the oil mist that mostly account for the intake valve deposits. In other words, if you keep your oil fresh with frequent oil changes, you will have less intake valve deposits. In addition, using higher viscosity oils (like 5W-30) will result in higher intake valve deposits because the oil will stay longer on the valve. These are the recent conclusions from SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) research.

 

[jokacz]

The "vapor" is the vehicle which allows the transmission of the "contaminants". At any rate, lower volatility i.e. Noack, is desirable.

 

[RepyT]

Thanks for youR great explanations that helped me know Noack, no wait, y’know this might have been explained in earlier pages but I MIST it, LOL.

 

[Centripetal]

The "vapor" is the vehicle which allows the transmission of the "contaminants". At any rate, lower volatility i.e. Noack, is desirable.

Shorty story is IVD is more complicated than just Noack. So is oil. Pick a reputable brand that meets the oil standards; dexos gen 2 is fairly strict for example.

I was using Mobil 1 on the wife’s car. When I switched to Kendall (aka Honda Oil), the oil consumption was a third of what it use to be. Also, the wear was reduced. Guess which one has lower Noack?

Perhaps, I should be more detailed in my answer. Noack is a measure of oil evaporation. When the the oil evaporates much of the contamination and additives are left behind, which is one of the reasons the viscosity increases. The oil is then consumed.

Oil mist on the other hand, is suspended in air but was never in gaseous phase. Perhaps a good analogy is when you put your thumb on the garden hose and spray water in the air (aka atomize). Since it never evaporated, all the contamination is still there.

Yes, lower volatility is desirable for a number of reasons, which some I mentioned above. Consequently, the factors that affect IVD on TGDI engines are not completely understood and still being researched.

 

[LongRun]

The thing I think about most with oil for my CTR is that the Turbo is oil-cooled and I do not pay enough attention to cool it down before parking in my garage, so I worry most about high-temperature breakdown, since every time I park I cook some of the oil left in the turbo.

One of the best sources of information on oil performance is the 540RAT blog. The guy does real testing of real oil. He recommends Amsoil Signature Series as the best oil straight from the bottle with no additives, but it is expensive, like $12/quart. He also found that Quaker State Ultimate Durability (available at Walmart for about $6.00 per quart bottle/$20.00 per 5 quart jug) is better than any oil other than the Amsoil Signature Series.

I would use the Quaker State if I were changing the oil myself, but I don't change the oil myself because of the hazardous waste disposal issue. Instead I go to a shop specializing in high-performance cars and have them do the oil change with the top full-synthetic they have on hand, which around here seems to usually be Castrol Edge.

 

[Centripetal]

The thing I think about most with oil for my CTR is that the Turbo is oil-cooled and I do not pay enough attention to cool it down before parking in my garage, so I worry most about high-temperature breakdown, since every time I park I cook some of the oil left in the turbo.

One of the best sources of information on oil performance is the 540RAT blog. The guy does real testing of real oil. He recommends Amsoil Signature Series as the best oil straight from the bottle with no additives, but it is expensive, like $12/quart. He also found that Quaker State Ultimate Durability (available at Walmart for about $6.00 per quart bottle/$20.00 per 5 quart jug) is better than any oil other than the Amsoil Signature Series.

I would use the Quaker State if I were changing the oil myself, but I don't change the oil myself because of the hazardous waste disposal issue. Instead I go to a shop specializing in high-performance cars and have them do the oil change with the top full-synthetic they have on hand, which around here seems to usually be Castrol Edge.

Honda actually had a spec for oil (HTO-06), which did have a test(s) specifically for turbos. IIRC, dexos has similar tests.
IMHO, I don't think that blog is scientific at all. It reads like a long rant. Part of the scientific method is sharing your methods of testing, data, analysis and conclusions. Furthermore, he does not share that because its "proprietary". The reason one shares this information using the scientific method is for peer validation of experiment/test and conclusions.

 

[jokacz]

If you want to impress yourself and your friends with a boutique oil, get some Motul 300V. All the posers in the bike forums swear by it because it costs around 20 bucks a quart. I distrust anything about Amsoil because if you Google synthetic oil you are bombarded by Amsoil hits. They pay for that to happen. I'm sure it's an acceptable oil. I also believe that the cheapest synthetic you can find will for all intents and purposes, perform just as well. My concern is low volitility per dollar, so I'll stick with Pennzoil Platinum.

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