Which cvt mode will quicker at the drag strip? Normal Drive or sport?

gtman

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If anyone wants to try to brake launch their CVT, you may want to read this first...

"Honda’s make some of the best Continuously Variable Transmissions (or CVTs) on the market today. But according to the VTEC.net site admin and a conversation he had with a Honda General manager, he’s seeing a rash of 10th gen Civics coming in with blown CVTs. When he poked into the matter, he found out that the one thing all these blown CVTs have in common is their owners tried brake torquing their Civics to get a better launch for drag racing, 0-60 run, etc."
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hondabandit

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I don't think it's the cvt. This car just feels very inconsistent from day to day. Humidity plays a huge factor in its performance. On crisp cold night drives, this car feels the best.
Dude, you couldn't have been more spot on. The inconsistency is starting to drive me a bit nutty.

This morning, an s2k wanted it on the highway and when I floored it, I just couldn't feel it like I can most of the time. Regardless of being in D, S, or using the paddles in S, sometimes it just pulls way harder than others and has nothing to do with knock control, outside temp, nothing. I've tried to find correlations with no luck. It's just literally some days it pulls harder than others.

Anywho, s2k looked stock from the outside, may have had a bolt on or two but no exhaust or anything, no visual mods. I feel like I should have pulled on it HARD with the new Phearable tune because that sh*t rips!! I also have intake downpipe exhaust and RMM so she's pretty damn quick, I'm still surprised most days when you put the hammer down.

BUT this time I felt like I legit got 3/4 the power I should have, and should have gapped the s2k but it just felt like my CVT was sitting there thinking or something, just didn't pick up like it should have at all. Oh well, just another example of how inconsistent my experience with the CVT has been.

Side note do you have an RMM? Once you throw stickies on, if you have an RMM between those two you should have no issue getting power to the ground without slipping.
 

Phy

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The drive by wire aspect probably accounts for the "inconsistency" a bit as well.
 

xjoshuax89

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It is what it is. You can eliminate alot of the boost lag off the line with brake boosting with even bigger gains if you got a larger turbo.

Definitely not something you want to do often.

However with how often Myx and few others do it...

Just gotta be careful with it and not hold it forever.
 


disgraced.fk8

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No RMM for me, but since I recently got a lift, I might go that route. In regards to the CVT there are a few tricks I’ve learned to get it to consistently perform in a predictable way:

The ECU has a few different inputs that makes it respond:

Double-tapping throttle = I want to go faster now

Downshifting the paddles = I want more revs now

S mode = I want revs in a controlled manner and to hold them longer.

Basically, you have to combine these inputs to achieve the desired result. Say if I’m roll racing, my formula would be (doubletap+downshift(2)). This makes good revs and brings speed on very quickly, but safely. If I wanna get stupid and blow up my CVT I use (S-mode+doubletap+downshift(2)). The car pretty much hits 100 mph in a blink, but the revs jump so quickly it just doesn’t feel safe for the car. Figuring out what combination works best for the situation is actually a lot of fun. Once you get the combinations down you can override the Nanny inside the ECU.
I tried the double tap out this morning and wheeewww! It just jumps right up! I had seen Myx's two step but for some reason only thought it applied from a stop. Definitely makes a difference and will for sure help making quick moves in traffic. Thanks for sharing!!
 

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This is a lot to read. I read the first few TBH.

I have the same sort of setup as the OP- 2017 cvt with the PRL catted combo (I have the 1st gen w/o heat shield).

I initially found L to have the best short times, and S seemed to trap at higher speeds. I haven't been to the drag strip this year. However, after making some custom tunes with the ktuner 21psi tune as my starting point I was going to try something.. maybe next year.

I've noticed that S and (moreso) L will get you in high RPMs quickly. I have also noticed that if I can get midway through 2nd 'gear' or into 3rd at WOT from a full stop, the upshifting from L to S and S to D won't kill my boost and re-engage the BBG I have to dampen the torque spike at the bottom of the curve. The ktuner 21psi tune handles this spike a bit, bit I've tuned higher boost that comes on aggressively so I needed to be aware and sensitive to it with my changes. That's also why what I have in mind may apply to the base map.
So here is my idea... Start in a lower trans mode; S or L. WOT on green, and time one of my Myxlesk throttle blips with an upshift to a higher trans mode (L to S, S to D, or L-S-D). This will get me into the higher-boost rpms where I target peak, keep me out of BBG Dampening, while making the higher RPMs accessible to work with along with being a bit more efficient with those throttle blips.

I wouldn't be surprised if your 100' and 1/8 mile times are higher in lower gearings (if you did the whole thing in S or L), with higher speeds at the 1/4 mile trap for S than L. D ramps the transmission too slowly and with what many have said feels like more artificial gearing pauses- more like onramp than drag strip accel.

To the OP- you may get more runs in this time of year before you're heat soaked TF out. You can mix 40-60% rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle and wet the intercooler while queueing between runs. Should keep IAT2 from being above 150 on restart :rofl:
 
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Cdavis52

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I went to the track last Saturday. Car ran [email protected]. Just left it in S mode. Track was packed, over 300 cars. Only made 3 passes.
 
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Cdavis52

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Not bad! What mods do you have?
It's in the first post. PRL catted downpipe, front pipe and K-tuner 21 psi. Stock exhaust.
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