Which Coilovers should I get?

[Tac3403]

I have a 16 ex-t sedan, currently looking at tein flex Z, as well as SPC camber arms to go with them. Is there anything better in this price range? If anyone has these coils, how do they drive?
The best price ive found on them was from ProCivic at $933

A few of my buddies recommended fortune auto, which definitely would be nice.. but I'm ballin on a budget here, hence the non-si lol.

originally I had planned on going with Eibach Sportline springs, but I want a bit lower, have the adjustability, as well as a more simple install.

really looking for bang for my $. I daily drive the car 70-75 miles. Wanting to start autocross next season, as well as making this thing finally look the way I want it to

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[Tac3403]

Also another reason I'm considering these is the EDFC capability later on.

 

[Ronny2019]

Also another reason I'm considering these is the EDFC capability later on.

I was looking into these as well for my si so i would get the full kit but $2100 Mann not right now they use a dual chamber shock makes it better on the street and gives more travel

 

[merakiautoworks]

We can try to get you a deal on those TEIN and SPC parts. Feel free to message us the part # and your zip code.

-Josh

 

[Doc_Mello]

I’ve been running the Flex Zs for about 1.5 years now. No issues. Love ‘em!

 

[Unity Performance]

Hey Tyler, if you're looking to AutoX for a full season then I wouldn't jump to coilovers as your main solution. I'll send you a PM with an itemized list of parts that better suited for you and we can go back and forth

 

[Unity Performance]

Since other folks would also be looking at this thread wondering what route they should take, here's what I PM'd Tyler after reading he wants to AutoX. I have along history here as @CanadiaegeanBlue, so these were all learnings from my own build

---

Right off the bat, the TEIN Flex Z's are better damped for street driving. They do have adjustable front camber top hats, and till be overall good for 1-2 AutoX Days a year for fun, but if you wanted to be get the best bang for your buck and be somewhat competitive in your first season, I'd take the $1,250 budget you have for Flex Z's and SPC arms, and allocate it to the following handling upgrades. Just for reference on my Si, I ran both Coilovers-only at first with camber arms and then switched out to the rest you see below for AutoX, Track, and daily. I felt that I gained more with using the same budget for more mods rather than relying on coilovers as a all-in-one solution.

- Whiteline ($330) 0.8" drop Springs, or Swift ($325) 1.1" drop Springs. Note: Swift are listed for Si, but are compatible for other trims too
- Whiteline 22mm Rear Sway Bar, with Accord End Links ($245)
- Choose 1 of 3 for Front Suspension upgrades:

1. Whiteline adjustable lower ball joints ($155)
2. Whiteline anti lift kit ($350)
3. Whiteline Control Arms ($718). This combines both above + another inner control arm bushing, and is overall easy to swap out.

- Ultra Racing Strut Bar ($220)
- Ultra Racing Trunk Brace ($291)


So let's say you [Tyler] do the following upgrades to stay under your budget. Swift Springs + Whiteline 22mm RSB + Whiteline ALK + UR Strut Bar = 330+245+350+220 = $1,145 pre-shipping cost.

To be honest, this would be a great AutoX + Daily setup suspension wise that let's your car sit lower and handle a lot better than it came from the factory. I can say this because everything above has been tested on all 3 of our Si's.

---

^ That was my above PM to Tyler. Myself and @Thusee are always active here to help with build plans; our ability to offer you the parts comes second to open sharing of knowledge from real-world experience of doing everything on our own cars

The above budget doesn't include summer tires, lighter flowformed wheels, and brake upgrades, which you'll have to factor in another $1,500 - $2,000 for. You can build a great 10th Gen for under $3,500 USD / $5,000 CAD! I don't like to touch power upgrades as the first mods, a lot can be done before that.

 

[poptartaddict87]

Since other folks would also be looking at this thread wondering what route they should take, here's what I PM'd Tyler after reading he wants to AutoX. I have along history here as @CanadiaegeanBlue, so these were all learnings from my own build

---

Right off the bat, the TEIN Flex Z's are better damped for street driving. They do have adjustable front camber top hats, and till be overall good for 1-2 AutoX Days a year for fun, but if you wanted to be get the best bang for your buck and be somewhat competitive in your first season, I'd take the $1,250 budget you have for Flex Z's and SPC arms, and allocate it to the following handling upgrades. Just for reference on my Si, I ran both Coilovers-only at first with camber arms and then switched out to the rest you see below for AutoX, Track, and daily. I felt that I gained more with using the same budget for more mods rather than relying on coilovers as a all-in-one solution.

- Whiteline ($330) 0.8" drop Springs, or Swift ($325) 1.1" drop Springs. Note: Swift are listed for Si, but are compatible for other trims too
- Whiteline 22mm Rear Sway Bar, with Accord End Links ($245)
- Choose 1 of 3 for Front Suspension upgrades:

1. Whiteline adjustable lower ball joints ($155)
2. Whiteline anti lift kit ($350)
3. Whiteline Control Arms ($718). This combines both above + another inner control arm bushing, and is overall easy to swap out.

- Ultra Racing Strut Bar ($220)
- Ultra Racing Trunk Brace ($291)


So let's say you [Tyler] do the following upgrades to stay under your budget. Swift Springs + Whiteline 22mm RSB + Whiteline ALK + UR Strut Bar = 330+245+350+220 = $1,145 pre-shipping cost.

To be honest, this would be a great AutoX + Daily setup suspension wise that let's your car sit lower and handle a lot better than it came from the factory. I can say this because everything above has been tested on all 3 of our Si's.

---

^ That was my above PM to Tyler. Myself and @Thusee are always active here to help with build plans; our ability to offer you the parts comes second to open sharing of knowledge from real-world experience of doing everything on our own cars

The above budget doesn't include summer tires, lighter flowformed wheels, and brake upgrades, which you'll have to factor in another $1,500 - $2,000 for. You can build a great 10th Gen for under $3,500 USD / $5,000 CAD! I don't like to touch power upgrades as the first mods, a lot can be done before that.

I have something very similar to this but a little more expensive, Its on my 19 civic touring sedan.
1. Revel Touring sports coilovers $1350 (very good for daily driving and high quality)
2. Eibach 22mm rsb $250
3.EBC yellow pads and EBC rotors $500 (huge upgrade compared to stock brakes)
4. Cusco strut bar $180 (yes it makes a big difference)
5. Cusco Front and Center Brace $400
6. PLM Rigid collar front and rear $240 (idk why they are this expensive but well worth it)
7. Godspeed rear camber arm $200 (a correct alignment is important and so is rear grip)
8. Whiteline ball Joints $150
9. Last but not least MIchlien ps4 all season245/35r18 - $1250

Those Suspension and chassis mods completely change the car into something that competes with a type R in handling, if not better. All while keeping your warranty=) JUST MAKE SURE TO GET A PROFESSIONAL TO ALIGN It PROPERLY!! I didnt know those control arms and rear strut brace existed and I searched for a rear strut brace last year and couldnt find anyone who made one. may have to get one.

 

[Unity Performance]

I have something very similar to this but a little more expensive, Its on my 19 civic touring sedan.
1. Revel Touring sports coilovers $1350 (very good for daily driving and high quality)
2. Eibach 22mm rsb $250
3.EBC yellow pads and EBC rotors $500 (huge upgrade compared to stock brakes)
4. Cusco strut bar $180 (yes it makes a big difference)
5. Cusco Front and Center Brace $400
6. PLM Rigid collar front and rear $240 (idk why they are this expensive but well worth it)
7. Godspeed rear camber arm $200 (a correct alignment is important and so is rear grip)
8. Whiteline ball Joints $150
9. Last but not least MIchlien ps4 all season245/35r18 - $1250

Those Suspension and chassis mods completely change the car into something that competes with a type R in handling, if not better. All while keeping your warranty=) JUST MAKE SURE TO GET A PROFESSIONAL TO ALIGN It PROPERLY!! I didnt know those control arms and rear strut brace existed and I searched for a rear strut brace last year and couldnt find anyone who made one. may have to get one.

Love seeing this, you've tackled the mods the right way and are enjoying the car for what it is! Absolute momentum car, and even if you haven't touched the power levels you'll be able to lap an AutoX or Track course faster than any Si that's only got power mods.

I can agree that correctly modified 1.5T's/Si can feel more buttoned down than a stock Type R. My old Blue Si when modified felt more planted than the stock CTR at the time. I've since sold the Blue Si and the Black (now Green) CTR is a totally different car that's closer to a GT3 RS in it's ability to attack any road.

 

[poptartaddict87]

Love seeing this, you've tackled the mods the right way and are enjoying the car for what it is! Absolute momentum car, and even if you haven't touched the power levels you'll be able to lap an AutoX or Track course faster than any Si that's only got power mods.

I can agree that correctly modified 1.5T's/Si can feel more buttoned down than a stock Type R. My old Blue Si when modified felt more planted than the stock CTR at the time. I've since sold the Blue Si and the Black (now Green) CTR is a totally different car that's closer to a GT3 RS in it's ability to attack any road.

I have a few power mods that make it wake up a bit (dp/fp, intercooler, cobra intake, AFE catback and phearable 1.5t that i mostly drive on stage 2) this car does ok in drag races but its nothing special... until I get to a curvy road. If i want to race someone i have a mustang gt with 600hp but I'm not lying when i tell you. This civic (even with it being a CVT) is much more fun to drive. Its not even close. Ive tried taking my mustang to the local track and it only has 1 straight away and rest is very technical and i get absolutely destroyed by civics, Miata's, and even that one guy with a Toyota corolla hatchback In the turns. All while being comfortable and fuel efficient. mustang is much more harsh (also has completely aftermarket suspenson) and gets a whole 12mpg when dailying it. Honda is comfy and gets 30 in the winter and 35in the summer. Mid 20s when stomping on it.

 

[Jjakef96]

@Unity Performance I am looking to become more competitive at autocross. I have done it for 3 seasons consistently at my local region for fun, not really caring where I stack up. But now I have a set of Falken 660s, I am ready to push and focus. For reference I have a '21 Civic Hatchback running in STH that is my daily but I recently found myself a WFH job so my concern for NVH is going down. It just can't be so rough that my wife and 2 year old son don't go crazy when we go out as a family.

Mods that I already have
TSP flash tune
PRL Cobra Intake
Thermal 3" Catback Exhaust
EBC Yellow stuff front pads and rotors
mFactory LSD
Clutch
Front Strut Bar
Rear Sway Bar
Accord End Links
Rear motor mount
Intercooler

As you can see I have not put a lot of focus into suspension but what would you recommend doing next? Only thing though is I want to keep as close to stock ride height as possible. My curb to my driveway is significant and if I don't get my angle right I can already scrape. Maybe a Bridjit system can help, but I need that first before lowering.

I am considering a full set of koni shocks but I am not sure if they would be ok with stock springs. And if I am doing shocks and springs, I may as well do coilovers to get the camber adjustment on top. So far I haven't had it aligned but this year I will. If I don't get coilovers I will remove the alignment pin on the strut tower and maximize camber in the front.

I need to keep expenses reasonable, I have ~$1200 in my budget currently but I do give myself an allowance on fun money so I can make upgrades over time beyond the $1200. In other words, I can make one big purchase before the start of the season and some smaller ones after the season starts.

Overall, what would you recommend for me going forward?

 

[Benster]

@Unity Performance I am looking to become more competitive at autocross. I have done it for 3 seasons consistently at my local region for fun, not really caring where I stack up. But now I have a set of Falken 660s, I am ready to push and focus. For reference I have a '21 Civic Hatchback running in STH that is my daily but I recently found myself a WFH job so my concern for NVH is going down. It just can't be so rough that my wife and 2 year old son don't go crazy when we go out as a family.

Mods that I already have
TSP flash tune
PRL Cobra Intake
Thermal 3" Catback Exhaust
EBC Yellow stuff front pads and rotors
mFactory LSD
Clutch
Front Strut Bar
Rear Sway Bar
Accord End Links
Rear motor mount
Intercooler

As you can see I have not put a lot of focus into suspension but what would you recommend doing next? Only thing though is I want to keep as close to stock ride height as possible. My curb to my driveway is significant and if I don't get my angle right I can already scrape. Maybe a Bridjit system can help, but I need that first before lowering.

I am considering a full set of koni shocks but I am not sure if they would be ok with stock springs. And if I am doing shocks and springs, I may as well do coilovers to get the camber adjustment on top. So far I haven't had it aligned but this year I will. If I don't get coilovers I will remove the alignment pin on the strut tower and maximize camber in the front.

I need to keep expenses reasonable, I have ~$1200 in my budget currently but I do give myself an allowance on fun money so I can make upgrades over time beyond the $1200. In other words, I can make one big purchase before the start of the season and some smaller ones after the season starts.

Overall, what would you recommend for me going forward?

I know it's been a while but I've been looking at suspension mods for my 19 hatch and this post is VERY interesting, thanks @Unity Performance for posting your mods. From your list, I'd suggest just whiteline springs as they seem to be the ones with the least amount of drop and from a few other comments I read are pretty good at handling autox and normal roads. Bilstein also makes rear shocks and front struts for our cars, the B6 series, just not sure what damping they have but the prices seem very reasonable(seen them for 116 rear and 111 fronts for each) . Also if you already splurged for something else let me know, very interested. I have about 12-1500$CA for next spring and not 100% sure what to go with, although with the lists above that helps me choose a bit better.

 

[Jjakef96]

I know it's been a while but I've been looking at suspension mods for my 19 hatch and this post is VERY interesting, thanks @Unity Performance for posting your mods. From your list, I'd suggest just whiteline springs as they seem to be the ones with the least amount of drop and from a few other comments I read are pretty good at handling autox and normal roads. Bilstein also makes rear shocks and front struts for our cars, the B6 series, just not sure what damping they have but the prices seem very reasonable(seen them for 116 rear and 111 fronts for each) . Also if you already splurged for something else let me know, very interested. I have about 12-1500$CA for next spring and not 100% sure what to go with, although with the lists above that helps me choose a bit better.

I haven't gone through with anything but I did some talking with some HPD guys and they were mentioning that they were going to swap the knuckles from a si so they can get those options. Which doesn't seem like a bad idea I just need to do my research to make sure I know what other parts are going to need to be changed out.

 

[chrisvwpw]

@Unity Performance how does the Eibach pro kit compare to the white line or swift springs?

 

[Benster]

@chrisvwpw From what I seen the eibach kit is a bit softer and drops a little more, closer to an inch. Swift springs are stiffer and drop 1.1".
@Jjakef96, what's different on the SI knuckles vs non-SI? the brake brackets are interchangeable between knuckles.

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