What type of oil does everyone use?

[GreenTeaPudding]

Personally, I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20, Canadian Tire has it on sale quite often for 50% off. Unfortunately Amsoil isn't readily available where I live.

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[lhughes21]

I use Castrol Edge. It's one of the few group 4 oils I've found. I'm really not comfortable with the 10k+ mile oil change thing so I do them every 5k. Oil changes are cheaper than a new engine. I use the same thing in my truck (the Ford 5.4 is notorious for ticking noises) and it quieted it down noticeably. And what's with some people not changing the filter on every oil change? I've heard about that several times. Autozone usually has deals to include a "free" filter (it's in quotes because nothing in life is free...)

 

[Methane Herder]

Mobile 1 Extended Performance 0W-20. K&N 1010 filter. Changed every 3000 miles.
Oil and filters are cheap. Little-bitty, tightly wound turbocharged 4 cylinders, not so much.

MH

 

[cydwel]

Amsoil 0W-20 Signature with K&N HP1010

 

[zacwel]

I use Valvoline 0w-20 and change every 5,000 miles, along with the Honda OE A02 filter. I completely ignore the MM and just do it at every 5,000-mile increment, and then reset it. I'm not sure what the consensus is about Valvoline on this forum, but I've never had a problem with it.

 

[James3spearchucker]

I use Valvoline 0w-20 and change every 5,000 miles, along with the Honda OE A02 filter. I completely ignore the MM and just do it at every 5,000-mile increment, and then reset it. I'm not sure what the consensus is about Valvoline on this forum, but I've never had a problem with it.

On your side of the planet that weight should work pretty well, but for ring seal and durability, some of us use 5w30 in favorite brand and model of oil. There are some other threads with more content from 2021-2024. You might have a gander over at those. I have recently read just how tight these bearing clearances are on these engines, but due to the turbocharger, it would be necessary to keep the piston to wall clearances looser, meaning that is the "looser" area on these engines. Also, the fuel atomization with the DI is pretty awful when the engine is cold. Your car has newer start-up parameters in the ECU, so that should at least help. I find that mileage is not as important as what conditions car was run in, so with many cold starts and such or hot-running, you never know how much sooner it feels right to change it. I just throw the numbers out the window, but go off a 5k max guideline.

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