What parameters do you display on your Ktuner or Hondata? and Why?

[CVTKiller]

Whats Up! So last night. I was messing with my Ktuner view and starting looking at the different parameters and was wonder what everyone else is displaying and why?

What is most relevant to you and your car when Driving or racing? lol and Why?

Any parameter that are overlooked when monitoring you car that should be on.

and to go really deep if any fan boy has the “normal” or healthy values for all of these would be extemly helpful

RPM - Revolutions Per Minute
MAP - Manifold Pressure
TC.Target - Turbo Charger Target(Not available on all platforms)
TC.Press - Turbo Charger Pressure (Not available on all platforms)
TPS - Throttle Position Sensor
TPS.C - Throttle Position Commanded
ECT 1&2 - Engine Coolant Temperature
IAT 1&2 - Intake Air Temperature
A.Ignition - Actual Ignition Output
Wideband - Factory Wideband Value
VSS - Vehicle Speed Sensor
CAM In.A - Intake CAM Position Actual
CAM In.C - Intake CAM Position Commanded
CAM Ex.A - Exhaust CAM Position Actual (Not available on all platforms)
CAM Ex.C - Exhaust CAM Position Commanded (Not available on all platforms)
Battery - Battery Voltage
K.Cont - Knock Control Value
K.Count - Knock Count
K.Cycle - Knock Control Cycle
K.Ret - Knock Retard Value
EWG.Duty - Electronic Wastegate Duty Cycle (Not available on all platforms)
EWG.Posi - Electronic Wastegate Position (Not available on all platforms)
EWG.Target - Electronic Wastegate Target Position (Not available on all platforms)
DIFPress - Direct Injection Fuel Pressure (Not available on all platforms)
DIFP.Target - Direction Injection Fuel Pressure Target (Not available on all platforms)
Ethanol - Ethanol Content (Not available on all platforms)
STFT 1&2 - Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 and Bank 2
LTFT 1&2 - Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 and Bank 2
FPS - Frames Per Second Refresh Rate

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[hobby-man]

I use the 9 position KTuner setup.

STFT LTFT AFR -> check how fueling is doing. Ideal STFT is maybe +/- 10%. Half that for LTFT. Can be different for Race MAF users. AFR should be around 14.7 when cruising. Will cap at 29 when engine braking (no fuel going in). Under high load / boost it'll run richer around 11.

ECT MAP TPS -> check that engine is not overheating (confirm with temp gauge on cluster). Check boost pressure at idle/cruise/load. TPS is fun to see go to 100.

IAT IAT2 KCON ->see how charge air temperature is doing relative to ambient intake air. Timing starts getting pulled at higher IATs so knowing you are getting cool air is important. Knock control is most critical value of all. 0.49 is the minimum and ideal. Higher it goes, more timing gets pulled. Huge spikes = bad news. This is an extensive topic already detailed here so I won't go into it more than that.

Knock control, fuel trims, and probably boost (MAP or even MAP + TC Target) are the most important to monitor, I just prefer the look of the 9 gauge setup.

Most of the other diagnostics (cam angles, fuel pressure, EWG) change too much and too often for my liking, I want to be able to have a quick glance at things but not be focused on the numbers while driving for obvious reasons. I have those setup on the other screens (you can have multiple profiles and switch by swiping). If I need to check those for some reason the info is there.

 

[CVTKiller]

I use the 9 position KTuner setup.

STFT LTFT AFR -> check how fueling is doing. Ideal STFT is maybe +/- 10%. Half that for LTFT. Can be different for Race MAF users. AFR should be around 14.7 when cruising. Will cap at 29 when engine braking (no fuel going in). Under high load / boost it'll run richer around 11.

ECT MAP TPS -> check that engine is not overheating (confirm with temp gauge on cluster). Check boost pressure at idle/cruise/load. TPS is fun to see go to 100.

IAT IAT2 KCON ->see how charge air temperature is doing relative to ambient intake air. Timing starts getting pulled at higher IATs so knowing you are getting cool air is important. Knock control is most critical value of all. 0.49 is the minimum and ideal. Higher it goes, more timing gets pulled. Huge spikes = bad news. This is an extensive topic already detailed here so I won't go into it more than that.

Knock control, fuel trims, and probably boost (MAP or even MAP + TC Target) are the most important to monitor, I just prefer the look of the 9 gauge setup.

Most of the other diagnostics (cam angles, fuel pressure, EWG) change too much and too often for my liking, I want to be able to have a quick glance at things but not be focused on the numbers while driving for obvious reasons. I have those setup on the other screens (you can have multiple profiles and switch by swiping). If I need to check those for some reason the info is there.

I like the set up, I copied yours to test it out. keep an eye on those parameters.
I need some gadgets and switches like you. please tell me what they are and use. thanks.
gives me a potential project.

 

[hobby-man]

I like the set up, I copied yours to test it out. keep an eye on those parameters.
I need some gadgets and switches like you. please tell me what they are and use. thanks.
gives me a potential project.

Haha thanks! The red circular switch is a toggle for my hardwired dash cam. In one mode it's accessory (ignition power only). The other mode runs right off the battery when the car is off for parking mode.

The on/off toggle is for the meth injection system. It's the master arm/disarm.

Next up will probably be an LED footwell lighting kit, I'll do a micro toggle switch on the blank buttons by the shifter maybe.

 

[xRiCeBoYx]

I'm not cool enough to have a V2, but here's what I have on my TunerView app

I set color warnings for all them, too.

• RPM: Green below 1850 and red above 3500
  • Automatically displayed with this layout (same with speed and gear, but those aren't setpoint-able, not that I really would)
  • Those are the main RPMs I notice any drone, albeit minimal, with my muffler delete. Bonus points with 3500ish-3800ish being peak torque band for the Phearable tune.
• K.Con: Green below .6, amber above .75
  • Because wanna make sure everything is hunky-dory
• STFTB1: Red above 11 and below -11 (I'll also switch this to LTFTB1 every so often)
  • Again with the hunky-dory business
• PSI: Green below 0, red above 21 (and I'm 100% aware that the phearable map 3 tune is tuned for 24psi)
  • Because my 18 Sport hatch doesn't have a boost gauge on the dash.
• AFR: Amber below 13.8, Red above 15.6. I wish I could have green from 13.8-15.6, but it is what it is.
  • More hunky-dory business.
• IAT2: Light blue below 30F, red above 150F (I'll sometimes switch to pre-intercooler IAT1)
  • Semi-arbitrary temperature setpoints
  • bc I wanna see how hot my intake temps get. I cross reference this to the ambient temp displayed on my dash. With my DIY intake stuff, in the winter, I'll see 5-10 above ambient while in motion, summer 15-20 above ambient while in motion.
• TPS.CMD: Green below 45%, Red above 75%
  • Because this shows "throttle position" even when in cruise. Yeah, I understand this is what the ECU is telling the throttle position to do. The "Throttle Position" selection zeroes out when cruise is set. I'm assuming it's gas pedal position because of this.
  • Color setpoints are for fuel economy purposes. When I had that gauge on Throttle Position instead of TPS.CMD, Those setpoints were 25 and 75

If I could utilize those 4 empty boxes on the bottom left, that'd be amazing, but alas, I have to make do with what I got. That, and I liked this layout the best. Ideally, I'd like to have STFT and LTFT and both IAT1 and IAT2 in addition to all the other parameters I'm looking at, but it is what it is. Switching those two gauges is no big deal

 

[hobby-man]

I'm not cool enough to have a V2, but here's what I have on my TunerView app

I set color warnings for all them, too.

• RPM: Green below 1850 and red above 3500
  • Automatically displayed with this layout (same with speed and gear, but those aren't setpoint-able, not that I really would)
  • Those are the main RPMs I notice any drone, albeit minimal, with my muffler delete. Bonus points with 3500ish-3800ish being peak torque band for the Phearable tune.
• K.Con: Green below .6, amber above .75
  • Because wanna make sure everything is hunky-dory
• STFTB1: Red above 11 and below -11 (I'll also switch this to LTFTB1 every so often)
  • Again with the hunky-dory business
• PSI: Green below 0, red above 21 (and I'm 100% aware that the phearable map 3 tune is tuned for 24psi)
  • Because my 18 Sport hatch doesn't have a boost gauge on the dash.
• AFR: Amber below 13.8, Red above 15.6. I wish I could have green from 13.8-15.6, but it is what it is.
  • More hunky-dory business.
• IAT2: Light blue below 30F, red above 150F (I'll sometimes switch to pre-intercooler IAT1)
  • Semi-arbitrary temperature setpoints
  • bc I wanna see how hot my intake temps get. I cross reference this to the ambient temp displayed on my dash. With my DIY intake stuff, in the winter, I'll see 5-10 above ambient while in motion, summer 15-20 above ambient while in motion.
• TPS.CMD: Green below 45%, Red above 75%
  • Because this shows "throttle position" even when in cruise. Yeah, I understand this is what the ECU is telling the throttle position to do. The "Throttle Position" selection zeroes out when cruise is set. I'm assuming it's gas pedal position because of this.
  • Color setpoints are for fuel economy purposes. When I had that gauge on Throttle Position instead of TPS.CMD, Those setpoints were 25 and 75

If I could utilize those 4 empty boxes on the bottom left, that'd be amazing, but alas, I have to make do with what I got. That, and I liked this layout the best.

That's pretty slick. The LEDs on the V2 are a nice touch but I wish individual parameters on the display could be colour coded like that.

 

[CVTKiller]

I'm not cool enough to have a V2, but here's what I have on my TunerView app

I set color warnings for all them, too.

• RPM: Green below 1850 and red above 3500
  • Automatically displayed with this layout (same with speed and gear, but those aren't setpoint-able, not that I really would)
  • Those are the main RPMs I notice any drone, albeit minimal, with my muffler delete. Bonus points with 3500ish-3800ish being peak torque band for the Phearable tune.
• K.Con: Green below .6, amber above .75
  • Because wanna make sure everything is hunky-dory
• STFTB1: Red above 11 and below -11 (I'll also switch this to LTFTB1 every so often)
  • Again with the hunky-dory business
• PSI: Green below 0, red above 21 (and I'm 100% aware that the phearable map 3 tune is tuned for 24psi)
  • Because my 18 Sport hatch doesn't have a boost gauge on the dash.
• AFR: Amber below 13.8, Red above 15.6. I wish I could have green from 13.8-15.6, but it is what it is.
  • More hunky-dory business.
• IAT2: Light blue below 30F, red above 150F (I'll sometimes switch to pre-intercooler IAT1)
  • Semi-arbitrary temperature setpoints
  • bc I wanna see how hot my intake temps get. I cross reference this to the ambient temp displayed on my dash. With my DIY intake stuff, in the winter, I'll see 5-10 above ambient while in motion, summer 15-20 above ambient while in motion.
• TPS.CMD: Green below 45%, Red above 75%
  • Because this shows "throttle position" even when in cruise. Yeah, I understand this is what the ECU is telling the throttle position to do. The "Throttle Position" selection zeroes out when cruise is set. I'm assuming it's gas pedal position because of this.
  • Color setpoints are for fuel economy purposes. When I had that gauge on Throttle Position instead of TPS.CMD, Those setpoints were 25 and 75

If I could utilize those 4 empty boxes on the bottom left, that'd be amazing, but alas, I have to make do with what I got. That, and I liked this layout the best. Ideally, I'd like to have STFT and LTFT and both IAT1 and IAT2 in addition to all the other parameters I'm looking at, but it is what it is. Switching those two gauges is no big deal

haha yeah thats cool! I use the tunerview too I gotta get my colors like that.

 

[xRiCeBoYx]

Yeah man, the color coding is definitely helpful if you know what parameters you wanna keep tack of. My phone is in a holder down by my shift lever, so I can kinda tell general status of stuff with just peripheral vision. it's kinda nice

 

[CVTKiller]

Im definitely gonna mess with it tonight

 

[vasekvi]

I didnt have any reference or guide but I went with:

Boost
Throttle %
HP
TQ
Coolant Temp 1 and 2
IAT 1 and 2

I may make some changes after water meth install and custom tune. Looking for suggestions.

 

[Klap1986]

Im definitely gonna mess with it tonight

How did you get the iat2 to display? Iv tried all the the layouts and can't find it on tunerview.

 

[CVTKiller]

How did you get the iat2 to display? Iv tried all the the layouts and can't find it on tunerview.

if you press and hold for a seccond it will pull up a menu and you. an scroll down and change the setting. Let me know if that works.

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