What did you do to your Type R today?

[Si_chRis]

Installed the Type R Leds side markers. Plug and play and happy with how they look

These are the amber lights only with no turn signal right?

Sponsored

 

[jasonjm]

Seems like side markers are the most common cosmetic mod, heh. One of mine is strangely loose too... might be time to join the club.

In other news, my hunt for the single cylinder knock has made progress. I've been seeing 4-8 degrees on cylinder 1 whenever I tap the throttle. After swapping plugs on cylinder 1 and 4, the problem jumped to cylinder 4 and got so bad that even feather tapping the throttle at idle ends up with 6 degrees retard EVERY. SINGLE. TIME. 100% reproducible.

However, going WOT does not cause much knock at all??

Gonna swap 1 into 2 and 4 into 3 since my middle cylinders never have problems. If it moves to cylinder 3, it's gotta be the plug.

Please, honda gods.. let it be the plug. I attached a datalog for those curious what this looks like.

What ended up happening after? I’d get all new plugs for the hell of it.

 

[Andjoo]

These are the amber lights only with no turn signal right?

Yes

 

[kefi]

What ended up happening after? I’d get all new plugs for the hell of it.

I just got done fucking around with it some more and it's still sadly a mystery. Actually, it got worse. After swapping the plugs around again and a third time, the issue is now persisting in cylinder 4. I also tried moving around the coils themselves to no avail.

It's now gotten even weirder - my long term fuel trim is suddenly going up to 3%-7% and my AFCMD itself is going down to 13.5 or so, usually when knock retard comes on. Seems our engines compensate for knock retard via additional fuel as well, which I never knew. I didn't actually take it for a drive this time so maybe this is just some artifact of standing still for so long, but the issues were usually at idle anyways.

To make things even WEIRDER, it's gotten even more reproducible in that if I lightly feather tap the throttle, I now get 2 degrees. Hold it a little to build a tiny bit of boost around 2k-2.5k rpm, 9 degrees. Only way to clear the KR (or get none in the first place) is by WOTing it to 3k. I repeated this process over and over and over and it was consistent for a whole half an hour across multiple shutdowns and coil/plug swaps. Here's a pic that pretty plainly shows it:

Note the gradually increasing throttle taps at the bottom, corresponding with the 2-9-0 knock retard precisely, over and over.

What in the actual fuck? Starting to think there's something wrong with my injectors. But that doesn't explain how the hell the issue suddenly went from cylinder 1 to cylinder 4 when it's been an issue with cylinder 1 consistently for months, just by swapping around the spark plugs.

On top of that, my car now STARTS UP with 2 degrees KR and won't clear it until I wot it as described.

This is all on the 93 basemap too. I tried live tuning (to avoid the lambda relearn), reducing all ignition maps by 4.5 degrees, and it did nothing.

I'm gonna swap back to 91 basemap and then stock to see if this persists.

 

[DRKSYD]

Mugen steering wheel and 2020 ctr knob. Waiting on my overland designs interior pieces now and I’ll be stoked!

Nice, The mugen leather shift knob is sooo nice though. hard to go back to anything metal here in WI.

 

[DRKSYD]

I just got done fucking around with it some more and it's still sadly a mystery. Actually, it got worse. After swapping the plugs around again and a third time, the issue is now persisting in cylinder 4. I also tried moving around the coils themselves to no avail.

It's now gotten even weirder - my long term fuel trim is suddenly going up to 3%-7% and my AFCMD itself is going down to 13.5 or so, usually when knock retard comes on. Seems our engines compensate for knock retard via additional fuel as well, which I never knew. I didn't actually take it for a drive this time so maybe this is just some artifact of standing still for so long, but the issues were usually at idle anyways.

To make things even WEIRDER, it's gotten even more reproducible in that if I lightly feather tap the throttle, I now get 2 degrees. Hold it a little to build a tiny bit of boost around 2k-2.5k rpm, 9 degrees. Only way to clear the KR (or get none in the first place) is by WOTing it to 3k. I repeated this process over and over and over and it was consistent for a whole half an hour across multiple shutdowns and coil/plug swaps. Here's a pic that pretty plainly shows it:

Note the gradually increasing throttle taps at the bottom, corresponding with the 2-9-0 knock retard precisely, over and over.

What in the actual fuck? Starting to think there's something wrong with my injectors. But that doesn't explain how the hell the issue suddenly went from cylinder 1 to cylinder 4 when it's been an issue with cylinder 1 consistently for months, just by swapping around the spark plugs.

On top of that, my car now STARTS UP with 2 degrees KR and won't clear it until I wot it as described.

This is all on the 93 basemap too. I tried live tuning (to avoid the lambda relearn), reducing all ignition maps by 4.5 degrees, and it did nothing.

I'm gonna swap back to 91 basemap and then stock to see if this persists.

Yes, swap to an OTS map and see what happens. While self-tuning is fun, you can mess any one thing up if you aren't 100% sure of it. Something isn't tuned right here, you're calling/demanding way more than you should be.

 

[kefi]

Yes, swap to an OTS map and see what happens. While self-tuning is fun, you can mess any one thing up if you aren't 100% sure of it. Something isn't tuned right here, you're calling/demanding way more than you should be.

I'm basically on an OTS map right now. It doesn't do anything but combine the 93 high flow cat and 93 intercooler maps.

However, swapping back to stock equiv greatly reduced the issue. I'm now swapping back to the basemap again to see if it comes back, just in case its related to the ECU forgetting everything.

edit: goddamn upload corrupted grumble grumble. aintnobodygottimefodisshit

 

[tinyman392]

Nice, The mugen leather shift knob is sooo nice though. hard to go back to anything metal here in WI.

The 2020 shift knob (if you can get it low enough) is very good though, despite being metal; it's smooth, fast, and notchy and definitely very satisfying to shift. I sent mine to Sweidit to wrap in leather, I'm not sure what it'll look like after I feel your pain with the metal knobs though... Chicago weather isn't all that fun either

 

[kefi]

Ok.. so after going back to stock equivalent, the knock retard almost entirely went away. BUT..

After I reuploaded my own map, there is zero knock retard no matter what I do or how much I slap it around (in neutral in my driveway). The lambda training completed too, since LTFT/STFT is reading. However, the OBDII readiness checks have not yet passed. Keep in mind, right before flashing it was producing knock retard 100% of the time every time.

This makes no sense. I see knock retard regularly in cylinder 1 for a couple months on throttle tip in. I swap cylinder 4 and cylinder 1's spark plugs, all the sudden the issue has jumped to cylinder 4 and is 100% reproducible, even after shutdown. Must be the spark plugs right? Nope. Switch spark plugs around, issue stays in cylinder 4, even through shutdowns. Flash back to stock, issue almost entirely gone. Must be my map, right? Nope. Flash back to my map, issue is still entirely gone (for now).

However, now I seem to be stuck at LTFT +7%. This may be because I've just been doing nothing but idling.

All the atmospheric conditions are the same. I did all this testing in the span of 6 hours. How could it vary so wildly in what it's doing?

Haven't been able to take it out on the road yet, but I don't think that will matter, unless it's somehow the emissions monitoring system causing the fuel to lean out heavily and knock.

I'm gonna lose my mind. Probably just gonna make a separate thread, cause I need some help here. Could reflashing it have reset the ECUs sensitivity or something?

 

[tinyman392]

PRL Intercooler installed! I was kind of sad that most of the beautiful machining can't be seen once it's installed on the car. But if you peak through the grill holes for the horn, there's a small gift in there I tried for a creative shot, didn't work quite as well as I wanted it to I guess

That said, I only test drove the car to make sure I was still able to build boost (check) and haven't driven it much more than that. The intercooler does change the character of the car. With the stock intercooler I felt low torque all the way up to about 2.5k RPM when I'd immediately get a small, but strong, torque kick that would "level out" around 3k and then a second stronger torque kick would come in at 3.5k RPM and pull hard through most of the remaining rev range. With the PRL I feel torque slowly begin building around 2k RPM all the way through 3.5k RPM where the second kick normally happens (it still happens). It feels a lot more linear < 3.5k RPM due to this. This was only a 10 minute test, for all I know things will turn back to normal after the ECU adjusts itself. I'm not on any sort of tune (not planning on it).

 

[RepyT]

Mugen steering wheel and 2020 ctr knob. Waiting on my overland designs interior pieces now and I’ll be stoked!

looks great.

I’m also waiting for Over’D, center console and side trim but in red Alcantara. May get the A-pillars and dash hood (have to cut out section of charcoal Dashmat) later. Fundages going to Koyorad radiator install as lack of tools, skills and time make paying better vs DIY. In deciding, I estimate what it’ll take me DIY, double it to get actual, multiple that By number of hours (days?) based on what I make/hr (some shops @$115/hr have me beat but can do it quick) So,only things DIY are the easy stuff, (mods, decals, some lighting) service goes to dealer, (pre-paid plans can save significantly).

 

[RepyT]

Did a photo shoot recently.

I’m jealous! Touchdown.
Just NFL anti-glare here but after your score I recovered the on side kick.

View attachment 203642

 

[RepyT]

I have been running this exhaust for a number of months so far. Still super happy with the sound and have switched the different plates a number of times. Currently happy with the center one blocked. Love that I have options to switch when I want something different. Plus the Borla looks cool from behind the car with the words etched in.

Great choice.
Almost went with Borla.
Got AWE Touring in Black Trip-tips. No words on back but people that hear it say AWEsome.

Just for the heck of it, I tried a BSB in the middle tip for an around the block test, no joy but somehow I got the munchies.

(BSB is Big Spud Blocker)

 

[RepyT]

Everything done is to their own taste but I am not a fan of the 2020 shift knob design. I liked the ball better than that one and the upgrade knob is still the same on one I Have for the 2020 Type R,

I agree, to me the 2020 shift knob looks like what happens when a light bulb and a bowling pin ‘get busy’.

The previous Olympic ball bearing/silver Callaway Magna Golf Ball was better but the new one can also be sanitized and used for churning butter.
View attachment 203645

Raceseng Stratos thang at least looks dressed for the evening.

 

[DRKSYD]

Finally had a ~60 degree day here so decided to install the Acuity stuff. Centering spring, bushings, rocker arm, and the titanium shift collar. Really happy with the way it feels after taking it out to test it. 3rd/4th feel better and return action is really smooth. Installation took about 2 hours, ~20-30 minutes of that spent yelling at the cats screaming inside and watching the videos on how to do it.

Did notice there are a couple steps missing the guides and video. There's another wire in the "3 wire harness" to disconnect and more wires loom fasteners to pull out to get to the top left bushing. Nothing really hard though so thank you @ACUITY !