What did you do to your Type R today?

[Chizzo]

I can say i have more pedal feel (stiffer), more solid on and off feel, the cmc rod and pedal stop had to be adjusted to the new clutch, shorter pedal length, takes getting used to but I can definitely tell the clutch is tremendously stronger and holds back the torque much better and im not even on it yet. 400 miles to go for the rest of the break in and ill let you know what i think of ACT.

Sponsored

 

[gp2engine]

Got my wheels mounted. Car will be lowered on Spoon springs in about 2 weeks.

I was surprised with how the sidewalls on the PS4S’s come in and aren’t straight, a different experience that I had with having Michelin PSS on my old GTI.

 

[seselectronics]

Afe exhaust installed!

Looks good, sounds great, and holy mother of drone Batman! The speakers start to fizzle and distort at 3k the vibration is so strong. If anyone is thinking about one of these, I'd recommend a massive resonator like I've seen tossed around here unless you want a vibrating massage chair on wheels. Don't regret the purchase, just regret i have to spend more to make it bearable.

All the exhaust with no cancellation system such as OEM ( helmholtz resonator) will drone , no matter how many resonators you add in line , you can reduce a little bit the drone with another inline resonator but also the tone of the exhaust will change . If you find any way to add a hermhotz resonator it will fix your drone issue or in cabin booming specially when you are coasting .

 

[seselectronics]

I added the missing gauge to my pods , lfp gauge . Now I can check if I have any drop in pressure coming from the in tank fuel pump before get in to the HPFP.

 

[R-43161]

Ceramic Coating at Gloss It here in Las Vegas. These guys did a fantastic job.

 

[Champ]

Got my wheels mounted. Car will be lowered on Spoon springs in about 2 weeks.

I was surprised with how the sidewalls on the PS4S’s come in and aren’t straight, a different experience that I had with having Michelin PSS on my old GTI.

I was looking at some 19’s and was curious to see if you notice any rubbing on the stock height?

 

[RepyT]

Unfortunately mostly causes of grinding issues are due the incomplete disengage of the clutch while you move the shifter to engage the next gear, changing the clutch pedal adjustments is like depress the clutch pedal earlier with the difference of changing the cmc rod travel could damage the clutch creating slippage in certain conditions . Happened to me when I first got the car and I had grinding issues , I decided to removing slightly the free play of the cmc rod following what members here recommended but after that, the car was fine in commute traffic , regular driving conditions but not on the Dyno . After removing the slave clutch cylinder delay valve the shifting was completely different, I have full control on the clutch , the pedal were softer and precise , always the same disengagement point. I would say improved like 80%.
If you paid attention to the Nurburgring video footage the guy driving the car is a professional driver , and he grinding the gears a couple times . I don’t think the car used had a bad cmc adjustment, or they wouldn’t be able to adjust , is just they can’t modify the parts , the car has to be the production car .

I agree removing plunger can work.

In my rambling, the point was supposed to be sometimes we try solutions harder/more severe than necessary to resolve a problem.

I believe it takes a savvy tech, in my case dealers lead tech who also owns a Type R to adjust actuator and pedal just right. In many cases, maybe even N’burg production car, they may have not tried adjustment, right off the line, go!

Tinkering wrong could make it worse, not saying you did that but it would have if I tried.

My observations and personal journey provide evidence that many, (dare I say most?) CTRs are either delivered out of clutch pedal and or actuator spec leading to intermittent grinding and/or lockouts, or something wears/seats to cause out of spec. It’s not always the human variable at fault as I’m still mistake prone me, issue is gone entirely though. Ok/not Ok seems random by prod#. Why?

I’m not a fiddler (as in one who fiddles with parts/procedures not comfy with) to get adjustment correct that isn’t entirely simple for a novice. Those with experience at adjustment may disagree or scoff but I know mine took just adjustment and suspect many more just need that too vs diff fluid, parts removed, etc.

Maybe if we all were able to set car up as engineers intended vs delivered, there’d be little/no problem. Instead we focus on improving on what just might not need major changes in mechanics, just adjustment. It’s a modders mindset, I’m guilty too, gotta improve something.

Whatever solution works for you and others is fine with me, going minimalist route when possible here. Thought the clutch work was fairly big pain, I troubleshoot from easy to hard solutions in order, we’re all happy now that’s what matters. ???

 

[seselectronics]

I agree removing plunger can work.

In my rambling, the point was supposed to be sometimes we try solutions harder/more severe to solve a problem.

I believe it takes a savvy tech, in my case dealers lead tech who also owns a Type R to adjust actuator and pedal just right. In many cases, maybe even N’burg production car, they may have not tried adjustment. Tinkering wrong could make it worse, not saying you did that.

My observations and personal journey provide evidence that many, (dare I say most?) CTRs are either delivered out of spec leading to intermittent grinding and/or lockouts, or something wears/seats to cause out of spec.

Im not a fiddler (as in one who fiddles with parts/procedures not comfy with) to get adjustment correct that isn’t entirely simple for a novice. Those with experience at adjustment may disagree or scoff but I know mine took just adjustment and suspect many more just need that too vs diff fluid, parts removed, etc.

Maybe if we all were able to set car up as engineers intended vs delivered, there’d be little/no problem. Instead we focus on improving on what just might not need major changes in mechanics, just adjustment. It’s a modders mindset, I’m guilty too, gotta improve something.

Whatever solution works for you and others is fine with me, going minimalist route when possible here. Thought the clutch work was fairly big pain, I troubleshoot from easy to hard solutions in order, we’re all happy now that’s what matters. ???

Yes I understand what’s your point of view and trust me I prefer to not do any modifications at all. I wish I could buy the car and didn’t came with overheating problems on the track or didn’t suffer any heat soak at slow traffic in weather of 90 f degrees , etc . Maybe we talking about two different problems or scenarios , for one side the owners who drive the car as daily and some spirits driving such as track days or just a twisted mountain drive, when you barely shift from 1 to 2nd gear or one second delay per shifting like mostly people . And for other side you have the crazy drivers like me who love to shifting 1to 2 nd gear after a u turn barely removing the foot from the accelerator and and the rest of the gears, if you are in a strength line just flat shifting. In auto X a lot of sharp turns and slow speed and track days ( you never use 1 gear , just when you move the car for first time )drag racing , pretty much all . In my case the transmission always was like butter in all the gears , the only problem was shifting 1to 2 at wot barely removing the foot from the accelerator, or when I was turning in 1 gear and engage 2 gear at wot . But other than that , the transmission always was good . After the slave clutch cylinder mod and master I was able to do all I wanted . Also rev match disable .
For many people the car is amazing the way it is. In my case any aid such as rev match , delay valve , rev hang , traction control , Vsa ect all these limitation bother me a lot. I’m mechanic , tuner and electronic engineer . I design a couple stuff for the R , also I’ve replaced , repaired transmission for the R , clutch etc .

 

[RepyT]

Yes I understand what’s your point of view and trust me I prefer to not do any modifications at all. I wish I could buy the car and didn’t came with overheating problems on the track or didn’t suffer any heat soak at slow traffic in weather of 90 f degrees , etc . Maybe we talking about two different problems or scenarios , for one side the owners who drive the car as daily and some spirits driving such as track days or just a twisted mountain drive, when you barely shift from 1 to 2nd gear or one second delay per shifting like mostly people . And for other side you have the crazy drivers like me who love to shifting 1to 2 nd gear after a u turn barely removing the foot from the accelerator and and the rest of the gears, if you are in a strength line just flat shifting. In auto X a lot of sharp turns and slow speed and track days ( you never use 1 gear , just when you move the car for first time )drag racing , pretty much all . In my case the transmission always was like butter in all the gears , the only problem was shifting 1to 2 at wot barely removing the foot from the accelerator, or when I was turning in 1 gear and engage 2 gear at wot . But other than that , the transmission always was good . After the slave clutch cylinder mod and master I was able to do all I wanted . Also rev match disable .
For many people the car is amazing the way it is. In my case any aid such as rev match , delay valve , rev hang , traction control , Vsa ect all these limitation bother me a lot. I’m mechanic , tuner and electronic engineer . I design a couple stuff for the R , also I’ve replaced , repaired transmission for the R , clutch etc .

Glad we agree to agree. Diff solutions for diff cars for grind. I had similar issues at previous Auto-X but none after adjustment, I’m either lucky or fixed. Sorry yours required full tilt.

For overheat on track, different situation in that never heard of any street hot issues, lots on track. This requires a material fix, whether a C&R radiator, aux one, extra oil cooler, assorted grill and vent options (some detrimental to pressure and airflow principles I.e.- car without A/C still hot with window down, needs fan & controlled airflow). The track overheat issue is a tough one to fix.

Being new, I grabbed what was available, Kyrorad dual core radiator since plan was only Auto-X occasionally with rest periods, not sustained track use (1 min or less laps, few idle, repeat 3x total, rest couple hours, 3 heats total) so may have helped or hurt but in hot FL seems like worthwhile.

I hope out of this we all grew a bit of knowledge on what to try in the order of most likely balanced with best use of time & resources.

Good talk, thanks for sharing your expertise and solutions.

 

[seselectronics]

Glad we agree to agree. Diff solutions for diff cars for grind. I had similar issues at previous Auto-X but none after adjustment, I’m either lucky or fixed. Sorry yours required full tilt.

For overheat on track, different situation in that never heard of any street hot issues, lots on track. This requires a material fix, whether a C&R radiator, aux one, extra oil cooler, assorted grill and vent options (some detrimental to pressure and airflow principles I.e.- car without A/C still hot with window down, needs fan & controlled airflow). The track overheat issue is a tough one to fix.

Being new, I grabbed what was available, Kyrorad dual core radiator since plan was only Auto-X occasionally with rest periods, not sustained track use (1 min or less laps, few idle, repeat 3x total, rest couple hours, 3 heats total) so may have helped or hurt but in hot FL seems like worthwhile.

I hope out of this we all grew a bit of knowledge on what to try in the order of most likely balanced with best use of time & resources.

Good talk, thanks for sharing your expertise and solutions.

About to ask you which part of Florida are you in? but then I saw your signature.
Yes absolutely !, good talk! Lets keep posting what have you done to your R or did ;D

 

[Erick.FK8]

Took off all 4 wheels, popped the center caps, and aligned the bottom of the H with both the wheel locks and valve stems......I have a problem lol

Damn, I really need to wash the car asap......

Did you know that the wheels aren’t needed to be removed if you want to remove the center cap? Use a suction cup no bigger than the size of the “H” and pull it right out. I’m editing a video on my wheels which I’ll release later this week on my YT channel. I show how easily it’s done.

 

[Volksparts]

Did you know that the wheels aren’t needed to be removed if you want to remove the center cap? Use a suction cup no bigger than the size of the “H” and pull it right out. I’m editing a video on my wheels which I’ll release later this week on my YT channel. I show how easily it’s done.

Well crap...now you're gonna show the thieves how to steal our center caps....

 

[TheGreekFreak]

Did you know that the wheels aren’t needed to be removed if you want to remove the center cap? Use a suction cup no bigger than the size of the “H” and pull it right out. I’m editing a video on my wheels which I’ll release later this week on my YT channel. I show how easily it’s done.

Ya but I needed to take the wheel locks off and position them on the hole above the valve stems so all 3 line up lol

 

[gp2engine]

I was looking at some 19’s and was curious to see if you notice any rubbing on the stock height?

No, the tires I have are 255/35 and there isn't rubbing at all with stock height. You could probably get away with 265/35 on stock height as well, but it could also be dependent on the tire you end up with.

 

[dwag0588]

Got my wheels mounted. Car will be lowered on Spoon springs in about 2 weeks.

I was surprised with how the sidewalls on the PS4S’s come in and aren’t straight, a different experience that I had with having Michelin PSS on my old GTI.

Those look perfect. That’s the exact setup I’m looking for.