I have the Thinkware in my car. It's wireless sucks. Otherwise, it's fine. What I like is that you can look at the car and you won't see the cameras. I'm definitely not looking at the cameras all day either so the fact the wireless isn't so easy is fine with me.
Ok, Very cool. When will it go into production? looks like some thing I was looking for. But would be better if it was on the left pillar in your line of sight while attacking the curves. More information on when it will be available .Hello Guys!
Here testing the one of my latest product, sequential shift light module, I'm posting some pics and short clips, let me know your thoughts!!
The sequential shift light is intended for the track enthusiast drivers, road course or drag races when you are in an extremely loud environment (mostly cars with straight pipe exhaust) and during the daylight specially when the sun shines in front of you and can’t see you cluster properly or your digital gauges.
The sequential shift light has a powerful LED,s intended to use during the daylight with dual adjustable brightness, you can adjust the bright for the daylight and another custom setting for the night. How does it work? The sequential shift light has a special input connected to your low beams, when you switch your low beams ON the LED,s. get dimed.
Here’s some features:
*Dual programmable brightness.
*Auto power off. (if the module does not detect any RPM it shuts off and then automatically turns back ON when it detects any RPM
*Adjustable shift light: You can adjust the RPM range and the color for the shift light flashes.
*Adjustable RPM starting point: The module can be adjusted when the lights start to light it up. Let’s say I adjusted the module at 2000 RPM, it means the first LED,s will light it up in that RPM range and the last one will light it up when it reaches the shift light point .
*The LED,s strip can be split in 3 different colors, you can choose any color (millions colors) and you can choose how many LED,s per section.
*Four animation’s display: Left to right, right to left, center to out, out to center.
*All the settings are storage in a eprom memory, it means you programed the module just once, no matter if the shift light loose power.
The sequential shift light is very responsive (can be used on a street bike) and the LED,s assembly is light weight, the mounting is performed by a 3M sticky back tape and it get’s glued to the lower cluster trim.
The installation is performed by two T taps terminals, one pick’s up the RPM signal (under the hood) and the other is connected inside cabin for the low beam’s signal ( dim function) . The installation process is not complex, I would say it could take about an hour for the average person and for mechanical /electric skills inclined, could take maybe 30 min.
Here a video showing some features , this is the first prototype LED's assembly but al least for you can see some functions.
The other person and I worked it out, he was kind enough to get a new username, nice guy!
The module is clever no doubt but with onboard capability more rudimentary, it appears to have solved a problem most weren’t complaining about or know we had. Just my opinion as a one-time thus far autocross 98% street driver.
Thank goodness there’s really only one of me. The other guy was probably funny.
I’m making a couple units , at the moment 3 unit have been sold pm for more info , the shift light has enough power for seen the LED’s during the daylight for that reason you don’t need to take your eyes of the road .
You have the cattless downpipe?After nearly three years of no heatshields, I finally got some thermal management put on this weekend. Took me until 3am wrenching in the humid ass Florida night, and ended up sleeping in and missing Cars & Coffee, but oh well.
PTP PRL DP (currently one of 25!) and turbo blanket with DEI gold wrap on the intake/inlet/MAF housing. I'm collecting more datalogs before I post any numbers, but my hood is WAY cooler and IATs seem to take significantly longer to soak, especially IAT2 (temp at MAF sensor).
P.S: yes, you can install the turbo and DP blankets without removing the DP, at least if you don't have any shields there in the first place. I used the wires to pull the turbo blanket into place and I just folded the DP blanket past the DP and opened it up behind it, getting it down there through where the intake box would have been.
No, I have the high flow.
I was thinking of installing the heat blanket on my RV6 catted DP. But a bit concerned that too much retained heat might shorten the life of the high flow cat.
I can't speak to the quality of RV6's cat, but the PRL cat has proven to be bulletproof. I run 12.2 AFRs, use antilag here and there, and for the longest time had absolutely no heatshields.
