What did you do to your Type R today?

Volksparts

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@InkedHisto what's the part numbers for the seat backs?

@Volksparts the carbon fiber engine bay trim looks good! Seibon?
APR



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Chrisp1

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C11654D9-7D62-4590-9BF1-6B54B801249B.jpeg
Successfully removed the OEM down pipe and front pipe without breaking any studs. Combination of heat and cooling worked like a champ. Will post a step by step in the near future. No broken bolts guaranteed ;)

Once this Dream Automotive high flow cat and RV6 front pipe are in, will finally be FBO and looking for a tune, possibly in November.
interested in hearing about your stud technique!👍🏻
 

joosman

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Just got the decals on. Decided I'd go with a more subdued look instead of the R with the racing stripe. Dead pedal and mat cover were done a little while back. Had the guy on etsy replace the red R with the H logo.
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98-0425

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fatherpain

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Here is the sure fire method to remove bolts without snapping them off, when removing the downpipe. **perform at own risk** You will need some Kroil or similar rust penetrant


6A206950-2149-4EDC-B250-DF7EC4EE1AA8.jpeg
And a butane torch and freeze spray.


50CEE28D-B8DD-42CC-9FD7-2CE7AA278C1A.jpeg

first spray some kroil on the threads and bolts. There are (2) bolts that are threaded directly into the Turbo housing and (2) nuts threaded on studs. Be sure to spray some kroil through the (2) backside holes in the turbo housing. Let sit for about (10) minutes


819D745E-6384-4261-89C8-9D6993DBC0C8.jpeg

For the threaded bolts, apply heat evenly to the turbo housing where the threads engage, circled in blue. Do this for about (1) minute. The kroil will smoke off. Does not need to get red hot.


1A68DBE7-8F26-4EDF-88FE-165CEDF629B0.jpeg

Immediately spray the bolt head only with the freeze spray for 5-10 seconds.


9F4A14A0-E342-418F-84ED-BB1490B2874A.jpeg

With it still hot, quickly use a 14mm socket and breaker bar and apply even steady pressure to break it free. At this point the external housing threads are hot (expanded) and the internal bolt thread is cooler (contracted).... A variation of the ball passing easily through the heated ring trick in physics....:cool:

If the bolt doesn't move and you are pulling hard, Stop. Repeat this process and try again.

Always apply pressure perpendicular to the plane and try to keep force as close to the fastener as possible. Avoid pulling from extended, offset angles unless absolutely need to. The lower and rear fasteners may require a 14mm deep socket.


2F917F9E-5ADE-4772-B9DA-36A646C300F4.jpeg

For the (2) nuts, simply heat the nut for about (30) seconds. Try to hit all sides to make it expand evenly.


96FBD714-8870-48A5-9CE2-1749D4415206.jpeg

Immediately spray just tip of the exposed thread to make it shrink.


3C2B5FBD-69E9-4959-894E-A2D5B11B92D2.jpeg

Pop the nut free with your wrench.

Update: To remove the (2) studs left behind that thread into the turbo housing, apply anti-seize to the studs then double nut the studs and tighten against each other, heat the housing as above, then cool the stud and turn loose, using the nut closest to the turbo housing...

That said, it’s safest to leave these (2) studs inside the housing alone. They don’t need to be removed to change down pipes.

Wanted to replace all of the studs with Rampage ti hardware so attempted to remove the top one and ran into problems.


F0D812B2-2C4B-4B52-80D5-BD54D80E0F17.jpeg

The stud initially moved and backed out several turns then got really hard. Tried heating and cooling several times + kroil and couldn’t get it and it would have snapped if applied any more pressure.... when I gave up and attempted to remove the nuts, the inner nut got stuck and would not come off.


46A91B6A-CDA7-4CD8-801B-FA2DC56ED0EC.jpeg

Used grinder and cut off wheel and carefully chopped up the nut In several places, without touching the stud, so it could be safely removed.


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Just went deep enough to see the threads then stopped.


5A0A9CB5-85A3-4A1F-8B1F-AA4E7B2FCC83.jpeg
And made new cuts. Used a large flathead screwdriver to pry the nut fragments apart.


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Until all that was left was this.


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Nut successfully removed.


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Fortunately, there enough good threads remaining to reuse the stud. Dunno why it galled so badly. In hindsight, I should have applied anti-seize before trying to back the studs out.


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Thought a washer would be needed to provide space to reach the good threads but turned out not needed. Fatherpain dodges a bullet, 😂

Really wanted to add the Rampage hardware.... but to do so now, would need to pull the turbo and machine the studs out and dress the threads... on the fence whether to go through the trouble.


interested in hearing about your stud technique!👍🏻
 
Last edited:

spyder57

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7E92F280-1738-4A19-8EAA-A4BF9189F2AA.jpeg
Here is the sure fire method to remove bolts without snapping them off, when removing the downpipe. You will need some Kroil or similar rust penetrant


6A206950-2149-4EDC-B250-DF7EC4EE1AA8.jpeg
And a butane torch and freeze spray.


50CEE28D-B8DD-42CC-9FD7-2CE7AA278C1A.jpeg

first spray some kroil on the threads and bolts. There are (2) bolts that are threaded directly into the Turbo housing and (2) nuts threaded on studs. Be sure to spray some kroil through the (2) backside holes in the turbo housing. Let sit for about (10) minutes


819D745E-6384-4261-89C8-9D6993DBC0C8.jpeg

For the threaded bolts, apply heat evenly to the turbo housing where the threads engage, circled in blue. Do this for about (1) minute. The kroil will smoke off. Does not need to get red hot.


1A68DBE7-8F26-4EDF-88FE-165CEDF629B0.jpeg

Immediately spray the bolt head only with the freeze spray for 5-10 seconds.


9F4A14A0-E342-418F-84ED-BB1490B2874A.jpeg
Use a 14mm socket and breaker bar and apply even steady pressure to break it free. If the bolt doesn't move and your pulling hard, Stop. Reheat, cool and try again.


2F917F9E-5ADE-4772-B9DA-36A646C300F4.jpeg

For the (2) nuts, simply heat the nut for about (30) seconds. Try to hit all sides to make it expand evenly.


96FBD714-8870-48A5-9CE2-1749D4415206.jpeg

Immediately spray just tip of the exposed thread to make it shrink.


3C2B5FBD-69E9-4959-894E-A2D5B11B92D2.jpeg

Pop the nut free with your wrench.

To remove the (2) studs left behind that thread into the turbo housing, double nut the studs, heat the housing as above, then cool the stud and turn loose.
Tom, amazing work as always! Your detailed how-tos are a treasure for the community. One of these days when lockdown is over, gonna need to come over and check out your car again with all your mods.
 

RepyT

Almost Stock ‘19 R on 255/35-19”
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Just got the decals on. Decided I'd go with a more subdued look instead of the R with the racing stripe. Dead pedal and mat cover were done a little while back. Had the guy on etsy replace the red R with the H logo.
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Joosman,
The H is a nice simple touch change from the usual one of two width stripes. I was impressed with Eric’s ability long ago and how well the stripe CF pattern matches the seat back though and had to have it. Sub-tool, I can hardly say the word... subtle (?) isn’t in my vocabulary. My Type R is certainly REDiculious!

FYI - Same decal gent (JetsVinyl) is tight with Aero Spec Racing now (custom CF). I have F&R badges and custom hood scoop due in any week now, worth waiting for.

How is your heel plate from autoCOVR holding up? Big guy here and I bent the crap out of mine. I’m testing a double plate version for Mat and it’s holding up great. It could be nearly twice the cost though if he decides to sell them that way as an option in the future. Nicely crafted products but not cheap, great guy, very open minded. I think he’s on eBay now, got mine via Etsy..

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Last edited:

RepyT

Almost Stock ‘19 R on 255/35-19”
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For the hardcore enthusiast who uses PPE like me, Available personalized on Etsy.🚗

Mine just ordered says,”What chicane?”

https://etsy.me/31zW68w

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Muggsy

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New Billetworkz shift knob, purchased in the classifieds. I know the color and logo are a matter of taste, but it goes well with the Eagles sticker on my back windshield. The extra weight (650g) feels great, and it's powder coated so I won't burn my hand even when the car's been sitting out in the middle of summer. I love it.

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Zeffy94

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New Billetworkz shift knob, purchased in the classifieds. I know the color and logo are a matter of taste, but it goes well with the Eagles sticker on my back windshield. The extra weight (650g) feels great, and it's powder coated so I won't burn my hand even when the car's been sitting out in the middle of summer. I love it.

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Fly Eagles Fly! Great to see another Eagles fan in the CTR community :headbang:
 

scottso990

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Thanks! Shopped around and with free shipping Bernardi is about best, good history with them, ordered.

Speaking of that, anyone want a never used Ridgeline (2017-2020) bed tent, LOL?
Bernardi was the best price I could find also. Going to order a cover from them next!
 

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