What did you do to your Type R today?

Volksparts

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I can confirm the Borla is 100% what it says it is and worth what they are asking, aggressive and no drone. I'm running open with no plates and still doesn't drone.

I have been running this exhaust for a number of months so far. Still super happy with the sound and have switched the different plates a number of times. Currently happy with the center one blocked. Love that I have options to switch when I want something different. Plus the Borla looks cool from behind the car with the words etched in.



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kefi

oh shit waddup its dat boi
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Well, while I was hauling ass trying to get some good datalogs to diagnose this single-cylinder knock I'm having, I noticed something cool about Hondata's full throttle shift that I don't think they or anyone else has mentioned.

It holds the wastegate closed. :love::headbang:

Pull to redline and let off throttle and you'll hear your normal woosh as the wastegate opens. Use FTS and you'll only drop to 8-10psi before getting back into gear. Our turbo goddamn near insta-spools at that point.

Doesn't sound nearly as awesome, but still. I always thought this was just a fancy little feature to make quicker smoother shifts at redline.. nope, shits basically a shifting antilag.
 

tinyman392

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I can confirm the Borla is 100% what it says it is and worth what they are asking, aggressive and no drone. I'm running open with no plates and still doesn't drone.

I've been leaning towards Borla due to the adjustability of it (quiet to loud). How easy would it be to switch out the plates? Like could you just swap them out by hand or would you need tools and stuff?
 

VTEC R

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I've been leaning towards Borla due to the adjustability of it (quiet to loud). How easy would it be to switch out the plates? Like could you just swap them out by hand or would you need tools and stuff?
It's just a clamp that you have to screw on and off. You can see that in the video.
 

VTEC R

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Mugen steering wheel and 2020 ctr knob. Waiting on my overland designs interior pieces now and I’ll be stoked!

9B80E5D0-0898-40BB-B074-DBFAFC1B4B45.jpeg
Everything done is to their own taste but I am not a fan of the 2020 shift knob design. I liked the ball better than that one and the upgrade knob is still the same on one I Have for the 2020 Type R,

6608A831-5BE0-43DF-AE38-B90AF8388A91.jpeg
 

kefi

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Seems like side markers are the most common cosmetic mod, heh. One of mine is strangely loose too... might be time to join the club.

In other news, my hunt for the single cylinder knock has made progress. I've been seeing 4-8 degrees on cylinder 1 whenever I tap the throttle. After swapping plugs on cylinder 1 and 4, the problem jumped to cylinder 4 and got so bad that even feather tapping the throttle at idle ends up with 6 degrees retard EVERY. SINGLE. TIME. 100% reproducible.

However, going WOT does not cause much knock at all??
upload_2020-3-7_13-1-9.png


Gonna swap 1 into 2 and 4 into 3 since my middle cylinders never have problems. If it moves to cylinder 3, it's gotta be the plug.

Please, honda gods.. let it be the plug. I attached a datalog for those curious what this looks like.

upload_2020-3-7_12-53-53.png

Screenshot_20200307-121044_Gallery.jpg
 

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jasonjm

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Seems like side markers are the most common cosmetic mod, heh. One of mine is strangely loose too... might be time to join the club.

In other news, my hunt for the single cylinder knock has made progress. I've been seeing 4-8 degrees on cylinder 1 whenever I tap the throttle. After swapping plugs on cylinder 1 and 4, the problem jumped to cylinder 4 and got so bad that even feather tapping the throttle at idle ends up with 6 degrees retard EVERY. SINGLE. TIME. 100% reproducible.

However, going WOT does not cause much knock at all??
upload_2020-3-7_13-1-9.png


Gonna swap 1 into 2 and 4 into 3 since my middle cylinders never have problems. If it moves to cylinder 3, it's gotta be the plug.

Please, honda gods.. let it be the plug. I attached a datalog for those curious what this looks like.

upload_2020-3-7_12-53-53.png

Screenshot_20200307-121044_Gallery.jpg
What ended up happening after? I’d get all new plugs for the hell of it.
 

kefi

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What ended up happening after? I’d get all new plugs for the hell of it.
I just got done fucking around with it some more and it's still sadly a mystery. Actually, it got worse. After swapping the plugs around again and a third time, the issue is now persisting in cylinder 4. I also tried moving around the coils themselves to no avail.

It's now gotten even weirder - my long term fuel trim is suddenly going up to 3%-7% and my AFCMD itself is going down to 13.5 or so, usually when knock retard comes on. Seems our engines compensate for knock retard via additional fuel as well, which I never knew. I didn't actually take it for a drive this time so maybe this is just some artifact of standing still for so long, but the issues were usually at idle anyways.

To make things even WEIRDER, it's gotten even more reproducible in that if I lightly feather tap the throttle, I now get 2 degrees. Hold it a little to build a tiny bit of boost around 2k-2.5k rpm, 9 degrees. Only way to clear the KR (or get none in the first place) is by WOTing it to 3k. I repeated this process over and over and over and it was consistent for a whole half an hour across multiple shutdowns and coil/plug swaps. Here's a pic that pretty plainly shows it:

upload_2020-3-7_15-27-22.png


Note the gradually increasing throttle taps at the bottom, corresponding with the 2-9-0 knock retard precisely, over and over.

What in the actual fuck? Starting to think there's something wrong with my injectors. But that doesn't explain how the hell the issue suddenly went from cylinder 1 to cylinder 4 when it's been an issue with cylinder 1 consistently for months, just by swapping around the spark plugs.

On top of that, my car now STARTS UP with 2 degrees KR and won't clear it until I wot it as described.

This is all on the 93 basemap too. I tried live tuning (to avoid the lambda relearn), reducing all ignition maps by 4.5 degrees, and it did nothing.

I'm gonna swap back to 91 basemap and then stock to see if this persists.
 

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DRKSYD

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Mugen steering wheel and 2020 ctr knob. Waiting on my overland designs interior pieces now and I’ll be stoked!

9B80E5D0-0898-40BB-B074-DBFAFC1B4B45.jpeg
Nice, The mugen leather shift knob is sooo nice though. hard to go back to anything metal here in WI.
 

DRKSYD

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I just got done fucking around with it some more and it's still sadly a mystery. Actually, it got worse. After swapping the plugs around again and a third time, the issue is now persisting in cylinder 4. I also tried moving around the coils themselves to no avail.

It's now gotten even weirder - my long term fuel trim is suddenly going up to 3%-7% and my AFCMD itself is going down to 13.5 or so, usually when knock retard comes on. Seems our engines compensate for knock retard via additional fuel as well, which I never knew. I didn't actually take it for a drive this time so maybe this is just some artifact of standing still for so long, but the issues were usually at idle anyways.

To make things even WEIRDER, it's gotten even more reproducible in that if I lightly feather tap the throttle, I now get 2 degrees. Hold it a little to build a tiny bit of boost around 2k-2.5k rpm, 9 degrees. Only way to clear the KR (or get none in the first place) is by WOTing it to 3k. I repeated this process over and over and over and it was consistent for a whole half an hour across multiple shutdowns and coil/plug swaps. Here's a pic that pretty plainly shows it:

upload_2020-3-7_15-27-22.png


Note the gradually increasing throttle taps at the bottom, corresponding with the 2-9-0 knock retard precisely, over and over.

What in the actual fuck? Starting to think there's something wrong with my injectors. But that doesn't explain how the hell the issue suddenly went from cylinder 1 to cylinder 4 when it's been an issue with cylinder 1 consistently for months, just by swapping around the spark plugs.

On top of that, my car now STARTS UP with 2 degrees KR and won't clear it until I wot it as described.

This is all on the 93 basemap too. I tried live tuning (to avoid the lambda relearn), reducing all ignition maps by 4.5 degrees, and it did nothing.

I'm gonna swap back to 91 basemap and then stock to see if this persists.
Yes, swap to an OTS map and see what happens. While self-tuning is fun, you can mess any one thing up if you aren't 100% sure of it. Something isn't tuned right here, you're calling/demanding way more than you should be.
 

kefi

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Yes, swap to an OTS map and see what happens. While self-tuning is fun, you can mess any one thing up if you aren't 100% sure of it. Something isn't tuned right here, you're calling/demanding way more than you should be.
I'm basically on an OTS map right now. It doesn't do anything but combine the 93 high flow cat and 93 intercooler maps.

However, swapping back to stock equiv greatly reduced the issue. I'm now swapping back to the basemap again to see if it comes back, just in case its related to the ECU forgetting everything.

edit: goddamn upload corrupted grumble grumble. aintnobodygottimefodisshit
 
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