What brand motor oil do yall recommend?

[CTRismybeater]

I believe this is the case. Unfortunately, oil dilution is not the only concern and there are other places in the engine where 50 or 60 weight oil might not flow fast enough such as around the turbo and even more importantly in the valve mechanisms.
So I trest 30 as totally fine, 40 probably ok for more extreme (or hotter) driving, but I wouldn't go any higher just to prevent oil dilution.

You’d be surprised actually. Above freezing 10w60 will lubricate all the engine just as fast as 0w20 and 5w50 probably just as well down to 20F. The bearing clearances in the R and probably the SI are probably pretty tight, but as long as you aren’t operating at the extreme end of the MRV spec you’d be fine. That said I doubt anything above a 40wt is going to provide any value and will eat power for hydrodynamic drag. I agree that fuel dilution is less an issue than most here think it is.

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[David Harper]

Like Gruber stated just change your oil. I've never understood the desire to go 10K or more miles without changing it. My DIY oil change, using M1 synthetic, costs me about the same as a tank of gas. I change it every 5K miles. For me this is about twice a year. Most of my driving is local short trip stop and go. At 5K miles my MM is at 30%. Everyone wants to overthink motor oil. It's no big deal it's only oil.
While I admit it might be possible to go 10K or more miles on an oil change without harming the engine why would I want to? When I drain mine it's thin, black, and smells like gas. Admittedly this is no scientific analysis on my part and maybe it's still good but who cares?

 

[Gruber]

You’d be surprised actually. Above freezing 10w60 will lubricate all the engine just as fast as 0w20 and 5w50 probably just as well down to 20F. The bearing clearances in the R and probably the SI are probably pretty tight, but as long as you aren’t operating at the extreme end of the MRV spec you’d be fine. That said I doubt anything above a 40wt is going to provide any value and will eat power for hydrodynamic drag. I agree that fuel dilution is less an issue than most here think it is.

I never believed that "tight tolerances" require low viscosity oil. They only allow for the use of lower viscosity oils which save some energy wasted on churning the oil. Fast flow of the oil is not really needed for lubrication, so I'm actually not surprised that higher weight oils would lubricate just as well, or even better.

However, in more modern engines, oil might be doing a couple of other things besides lubrication, and two of these things are acting as a critical coolant and as a hydraulic fluid. Hydraulic flud actuates or switches some mechanical contraptions, not unlike in an automatic transmission. Obviously the operation of an AT is sensitive to the viscosity of the transmission fluid, as it has to flow just so. I mean here the variable valve timing in various variants of the (i)VT(E)C, where the viscosity of the oil might play a role.

And the cooling of the turbo also may require a faster oil flow.
So I'm quite sure heavier oil will be fine for lubrication, but I don't have enough information (or just don't know enough) to rule out issues in other areas.

Btw. here is an old oil discussion about why at the time Honda recommended thinner oil (5W20] in NA but not in Europe. One argument was that it was because Europe didn't have some oil stock available, so they were unable to make good and cheap enough 5W20 oils. It seems though that today, after 14 years, Europe has good enough 0w20 oils, as the synthetic oils are much more common and cheaper, but there is still a difference in Honda manuals on the oil weights for NA vs. other parts of the world....

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/printthread/Board/1/main/13908/type/thread

 

[eee.ccc]

@Gruber

So after all the research and anecdotes, I'm interested to know what brand oil and weight do you personally run?
Just curious to know .

 

[Gruber]

@Gruber

So after all the research and anecdotes, I'm interested to know what brand oil and weight do you personally run?
Just curious to know .

Why Mobil1 1 of course. A couple of their oils already have the ILSAC-GF6A approval recorded on their website, and I don't think they needed to reformulate anything. I have been using the 0W20 Annual Protection at full oil changes, which takes place according to MM, wchich with my recent driving would happen at no more than 6000 miles. But as the oil level rises I always replace some oil via the dipstick tube mid-OCI with Mobil 1 0W30 AFE, so when the MM calls for the next oil change, it's already more or less half exchanged.
I might soon start filling with 0W30 AFE or 5w30 AP from the beginning. I have been using 0w20 as the manual says to have a baseline.

Btw. I have been using Mobil 1 5w20 Advanced and EP in my 2009 CRV from the beginning following only the MM which means 10,000+ OCI every time. The oil in that K24Z1 engine doesn't get dark nearly as fast as in the 1.5T, and of course, there is no fuel in it.

 

[eee.ccc]

@Gruber
nice thanks for the info. v helpful.

 

[Hydrolic11]

Like Gruber stated just change your oil. I've never understood the desire to go 10K or more miles without changing it. My DIY oil change, using M1 synthetic, costs me about the same as a tank of gas. I change it every 5K miles. For me this is about twice a year. Most of my driving is local short trip stop and go. At 5K miles my MM is at 30%. Everyone wants to overthink motor oil. It's no big deal it's only oil.
While I admit it might be possible to go 10K or more miles on an oil change without harming the engine why would I want to? When I drain mine it's thin, black, and smells like gas. Admittedly this is no scientific analysis on my part and maybe it's still good but who cares?

OP here Yeah, I probably should have been more clear about my intention in starting this thread. It's going to be my first oil change, and I was wondering what oil (if any) helps with fighting carbon buildup and/or oil dillution, not which so about what oil can last longer so I can change my oil less often

If anything, much like what others have said, I'll be changing my oil as often, if not more. But yeah, my last Civic, I kept for 14-years, and hoping to do the same with this one, so was just trying to see if there's an oil out there that would help the longevity of the engine.

 

[CTRismybeater]

I never believed that "tight tolerances" require low viscosity oil. They only allow for the use of lower viscosity oils which save some energy wasted on churning the oil. Fast flow of the oil is not really needed for lubrication, so I'm actually not surprised that higher weight oils would lubricate just as well, or even better.

However, in more modern engines, oil might be doing a couple of other things besides lubrication, and two of these things are acting as a critical coolant and as a hydraulic fluid. Hydraulic flud actuates or switches some mechanical contraptions, not unlike in an automatic transmission. Obviously the operation of an AT is sensitive to the viscosity of the transmission fluid, as it has to flow just so. I mean here the variable valve timing in various variants of the (i)VT(E)C, where the viscosity of the oil might play a role.

And the cooling of the turbo also may require a faster oil flow.
So I'm quite sure heavier oil will be fine for lubrication, but I don't have enough information (or just don't know enough) to rule out issues in other areas.

Btw. here is an old oil discussion about why at the time Honda recommended thinner oil (5W20] in NA but not in Europe. One argument was that it was because Europe didn't have some oil stock available, so they were unable to make good and cheap enough 5W20 oils. It seems though that today, after 14 years, Europe has good enough 0w20 oils, as the synthetic oils are much more common and cheaper, but there is still a difference in Honda manuals on the oil weights for NA vs. other parts of the world....

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/printthread/Board/1/main/13908/type/thread

If a 0w20 is acceptable below 0F 10w60 will be too as far as hydraulics go and you are getting superior film strength so superior lubrication. Again, not advocating it, but using such a weight would be without issue. You may not like the sluggishness of the engine with an oil that thick though as the parts in the hydrodynamic regime stagger through the thicker oil.

You are right about cooking for sure. We’ve tested this ourselves in our lab at my company.

Regarding that BITOG discussion I was one of those that blew holes in that argument with pictures from auto part and home improvement stores in the UK, Nederland, Germany, and France I took during that time while traveling on business of 5w20 readily available. So, 5w30 was clearly spec’d for a reason. Now it looks like they are in board with 0w20 though.

My dealer has me using 5w40 FWIW, but I track rat mine.

 

[Zodd]

temperatures here in winter can go down to negative F and in summer up to 100F
i use 0w-30 castrol edge titanium FST all year round, and car seem to like it
i use 30 beacuse sometimes i WOT for more than few minutes at time on highways so i get better
wear protection at pulls...
since 0w-20 service use is HTHS 2.6 and 0w-30 castrol is 3.5+
i change oil at around 5000miles

 

[David Harper]

I've read some good things about M1 0w40 european car formula. Thinking of trying it this summer. It's usually 80 to 95 degrees F. where I live and in that kind of heat my engine seems to have an unpleasant metallic sound with 0w20. Last summer I switched to 0w30 and it sounded smoother and quieter the unpleasant sound seemed to go away.

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