What brand motor oil do yall recommend?

S60doc

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Just like with your Toyota 2.4L you had to watch your oil level to not go too low, with the civic 1.5T you need to watch it to not let it go too high.

I would just ask the service advisor very casually if they mind you bringing your own oil. If he turns his eyes and shows a slightest lack of enthusiasm for the idea, I wouldn't go there.

As for Carfax service records, I don't care about them and change my oil myself. It is possible to record your own oil changes on myCarfax, but I don't bother with that. Each of my cars always had a notebook where I record everything that's done to the car. This should do for a private sale; for a trade-in it doesn't really matter anyway.
yes i know. Oil dilution! I didn't see any symptoms about it on my car but who knows. I didn't send oil to analysis.
Honda using this 1.5T gdi turbocharged engine since 2015 right?
They should've fix it 2016 either 2017. I know Honda doesn't accept they have this issue. I wanna believe that Honda still reliable even i watched bunch of video about oil dilution and carbon buildup. These are the cons for GDI and Turbocharged engine.
I may start go to my mechanic with oil and filter then as you said I can put them on mycarfax. And if i keep the receipt for oil, I can show next owner :)
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FWIW, I have 3 Honda Civics and an Accord all with multiple 100,000 miles and follow the maintenance monitor with dealer changes using recommended Honda products and have never had a maintenance issue to date. No smoking, oil usage, failures or loss of compression.
I assume your question refers to piper oil for extreme conditions or competitive driving?
also I noticed that Honda Automotive uses mainly the A01 filters and Honda Marine uses A02 filters. The main difference on the surface is who the manufacturer is. I know there are internal differences. Interesting that if the A01 filters are better, they would use A02’s in high operating RPM engines. I think it’s like spark plugs. NGK or Denso. Probably whatever they can get easiest when they restock.
 

eee.ccc

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There's is a post somewhere In one of the big oil debates where a member sent off a liqui Moly 0-20 for analysis and although it came out slightly diluted (within spec) , the lubrication properties were intact.

I've been a believer in liqui moly ever since .
It is more expensive but imo worth it.

My Anecdote: catch can has been dry since liquid moly oil. In the past I had Castrol edge and it filled up significantly after 600 miles/1000km
 

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There's is a post somewhere In one of the big oil debates where a member sent off a liqui Moly 0-20 for analysis and although it came out slightly diluted (within spec) , the lubrication properties were intact.
What "lubrication properties" specifically?
 

eee.ccc

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What "lubrication properties" specifically?
Im refering to the viscosity.

See copy and paste of the post I was talking about.

"German standards for what constitutes a 100% synthetic oil are superior to those in North America. That being said, this oil is bar none. Being use in my 2017 Civic EX-T that I do run hard for fun more often than I probably should (and I live in coastal Georgia so it's smoking hot 24/7 here), BlackStone oil analysis came back today after my first run with it after previously using Mobil1. Even with 1.8% gas (Honda's 1.5 turbo engine is known to currently have a fuel dilution issue) with about 5,500 miles on the oil, TBN showed plenty of life left, very high sodium content (shows lots of additives, sodium can come from coolant but LiquiMoly does put more sodium-based compounds in their oil as the softer metal is great for wear and cleaning), and the LOWEST wear metals out of all analyses I've done so far (at 15,000 miles on the ODO). Even with the somewhat uncomfortable fuel contamination, the oil's viscosity came in smack dab in the middle of the perfect range scale. That's insane! The oil not only reduced wear, it was basically unaffected by the fuel contamination! I won't be buying any other brand."
 


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I use Castrol edge gdi for better performance under pressure with the k&n oil filter and it’s a smoother ride and better performance compare to the economy of Mobil 1 and due to my upgrades to my vehicle it’s recommended
 

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Im refering to the viscosity.

See copy and paste of the post I was talking about.

"German standards for what constitutes a 100% synthetic oil are superior to those in North America. That being said, this oil is bar none. Being use in my 2017 Civic EX-T that I do run hard for fun more often than I probably should (and I live in coastal Georgia so it's smoking hot 24/7 here), BlackStone oil analysis came back today after my first run with it after previously using Mobil1. Even with 1.8% gas (Honda's 1.5 turbo engine is known to currently have a fuel dilution issue) with about 5,500 miles on the oil, TBN showed plenty of life left, very high sodium content (shows lots of additives, sodium can come from coolant but LiquiMoly does put more sodium-based compounds in their oil as the softer metal is great for wear and cleaning), and the LOWEST wear metals out of all analyses I've done so far (at 15,000 miles on the ODO). Even with the somewhat uncomfortable fuel contamination, the oil's viscosity came in smack dab in the middle of the perfect range scale. That's insane! The oil not only reduced wear, it was basically unaffected by the fuel contamination! I won't be buying any other brand."
Liqui Moly doesn’t make a true synthetic 0w20 per German law. All there 0w20’s are technosynthese, so while they may contain technically synthetic group IV and V base stocks, they also contain other groups such as hydro cracked group III. They do make great oils though and their customer service is best of the best.
 

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Im refering to the viscosity.

See copy and paste of the post I was talking about.

"German standards for what constitutes a 100% synthetic oil are superior to those in North America. That being said, this oil is bar none. Being use in my 2017 Civic EX-T that I do run hard for fun more often than I probably should (and I live in coastal Georgia so it's smoking hot 24/7 here), BlackStone oil analysis came back today after my first run with it after previously using Mobil1. Even with 1.8% gas (Honda's 1.5 turbo engine is known to currently have a fuel dilution issue) with about 5,500 miles on the oil, TBN showed plenty of life left, very high sodium content (shows lots of additives, sodium can come from coolant but LiquiMoly does put more sodium-based compounds in their oil as the softer metal is great for wear and cleaning), and the LOWEST wear metals out of all analyses I've done so far (at 15,000 miles on the ODO). Even with the somewhat uncomfortable fuel contamination, the oil's viscosity came in smack dab in the middle of the perfect range scale. That's insane! The oil not only reduced wear, it was basically unaffected by the fuel contamination! I won't be buying any other brand."
The qouted text does not make any sense. By how much would anyone expect theat 1.8% of gasoline could reduce the viscosity? Of course any oil would stay in the range. And anyone can put loads of sodium in the oil. That's not any sort of achievement. Diluting any oil with gasoline will just dilute anything that is in the oil, there is no magic to prevent it.
Viscosity is just one of the "lubricating properties". Gasoline has much lower viscosity compared to oil, so it will decrease the viscosity of any oil by a similar amount.
There is no such thing as an oil resistant to dilution, except loading it with more additives, which has also negative consequences. Each oil has some excess of additives.
Just. Change. Oil. Instead of buying a million dollar oil stuffed with additives to last for million miles.

The Ravenol 0w20 EFS has a Noack of 7.4%.
So? The Noack volatilty parameter is of almost zero significance to our 1.5T engines. These engines can't evaporate the gasoline from the oil fast enough, so how on Earth :hmm: can excessive evaporation of the lighter fractions of the oil itself be ever a problem? Let's leave worrying about Noack to diesel owners. German oils are made with diesel in mind.
 

eee.ccc

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@Gruber
Completely agree regular oil changes is basically what you need. The brand of oil probably doesn't matter as much.

Valid points about additives, 'resistance to gas dilution' but I'm not a engine oil chemist to really form any counter arguments. I'll take your word for it.

But taking into account all those Blackstone/oil analysis reports all we have are really anecdotes since every car is driven differently, taken care of differently in different climates and temperature variances. One can only decide for themselves. So to mitigate those differences, the only common denominator is regular oil changes so I agree.

That being said my liquid moly specialtec AA oil isn't really a million dollar oil, in Canada I'm getting a large jug for about 60 bucks and that's alright with me.
 


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The qouted text does not make any sense. By how much would anyone expect theat 1.8% of gasoline could reduce the viscosity? Of course any oil would stay in the range. And anyone can put loads of sodium in the oil. That's not any sort of achievement. Diluting any oil with gasoline will just dilute anything that is in the oil, there is no magic to prevent it.
Viscosity is just one of the "lubricating properties". Gasoline has much lower viscosity compared to oil, so it will decrease the viscosity of any oil by a similar amount.
There is no such thing as an oil resistant to dilution, except loading it with more additives, which has also negative consequences. Each oil has some excess of additives.
Just. Change. Oil. Instead of buying a million dollar oil stuffed with additives to last for million miles.



So? The Noack volatilty parameter is of almost zero significance to our 1.5T engines. These engines can't evaporate the gasoline from the oil fast enough, so how on Earth :hmm: can excessive evaporation of the lighter fractions of the oil itself be ever a problem? Let's leave worrying about Noack to diesel owners. German oils are made with diesel in mind.
I made no reference to NOAK, but rather corrected the oil’s legitimacy as synthetic per the respective German law. Your claim was false and that could erroneously influence other members who have true synthetic as a priority. I personally wouldn’t focus on NOAK, but it usually trends down with the quality of the base stock with few exceptions.
 

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There is a very old paper out there that determines that oils with more or heavier Viscosity Index Improvers mitigate fuel dilution. The theory and observation was that the VII’s, which have significant molecular mass, seal the piston ring area better to blow by. The warranty be damned potentially, but examples are 0w40, 5w50, or 10w60. Food for thought, but certainly not suggestion or encouragement.
 

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There is a very old paper out there that determines that oils with more or heavier Viscosity Index Improvers mitigate fuel dilution. The theory and observation was that the VII’s, which have significant molecular mass, seal the piston ring area better to blow by. The warranty be damned potentially, but examples are 0w40, 5w50, or 10w60. Food for thought, but certainly not suggestion or encouragement.
I believe this is the case. Unfortunately, oil dilution is not the only concern and there are other places in the engine where 50 or 60 weight oil might not flow fast enough such as around the turbo and even more importantly in the valve mechanisms.
So I treat 30 as totally fine, 40 probably ok for more extreme (or hotter) driving, but I wouldn't go any higher just to prevent oil dilution.
 
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