Well, I'm knocking.

17siturb0

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I change my own engine oil. I don’t care how good of a reputation a shop has. I know I’m doing it 100% properly. That noises sounds like damaged/bent valves or rod knock. 27psi on a Base 1.5t is a lot of stress. Just saying! Probably not the smartest idea to run that much boost.
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What kind of tune were you running. Custom, base, self
 

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I change my own engine oil. I don’t care how good of a reputation a shop has. I know I’m doing it 100% properly. That noises sounds like damaged/bent valves or rod knock. 27psi on a Base 1.5t is a lot of stress. Just saying! Probably not the smartest idea to run that much boost.
The upgraded turbo engines are running 30psi. If it's CVT it could be the belt broke off something inside .
 

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Checked it first thing this morning. Oil level was high if anything. Sorry didn't get a shot of the dips tick. Here's the oil I wiped off, I've been staring at it under a light for about 10 mins and I'm struggling to see any metallic particles.

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That looks very dirty for 3,000 kms. Does it smell okay? How much higher than full is it?
 

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Knock sensors are piezoelectric microphones, nothing more/ It takes sound and converts it to voltage. The ECU has tables that references the signal from the sensor and has an "allowable" threshold. Anything over the threshold it considers "spark knock."

Noise from a spun bearing can absolutely cause the sensor to pick up the noise and interpret it as what it considers "knock."

Knock control at 100% means the ECU thinks the fuel quality is far below 87oct, so it's applying the maximum ignition retard available in order to keep the engine from detonating.
 


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That looks very dirty for 3,000 kms. Does it smell okay? How much higher than full is it?
Smells like fuel, and yea I agree, extremely dirty for that short a period. Maybe blow by is more of an issue than we assumed on this engine? It was maybe a few millimeters above full. I do not believe it was all the way past the orange and on the metal.
I change my own engine oil. I don’t care how good of a reputation a shop has. I know I’m doing it 100% properly. That noises sounds like damaged/bent valves or rod knock. 27psi on a Base 1.5t is a lot of stress. Just saying! Probably not the smartest idea to run that much boost.
No probably not the smartest, but there's people above that right now.
 
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Knock sensors are piezoelectric microphones, nothing more/ It takes sound and converts it to voltage. The ECU has tables that references the signal from the sensor and has an "allowable" threshold. Anything over the threshold it considers "spark knock."

Noise from a spun bearing can absolutely cause the sensor to pick up the noise and interpret it as what it considers "knock."

Knock control at 100% means the ECU thinks the fuel quality is far below 87oct, so it's applying the maximum ignition retard available in order to keep the engine from detonating.
More and more I'm leaning towards bad gas but that does not sound like ignition knock at all to me.
 

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More and more I'm leaning towards bad gas but that does not sound like ignition knock at all to me.
Spark knock doesn't sound like that.

Spark knock sounds more like pins being dropped on a glass table, if that makes sense to you.

The noise in your video absolutely sounds mechanical.
 
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Spark knock doesn't sound like that.

Spark knock sounds more like pins being dropped on a glass table, if that makes sense to you.

The noise in your video absolutely sounds mechanical.
Yea, the lack of metal in the oil and the no knock count is giving me hope, but I'm sure she'll be getting some new bearings at least and a whole new engine at worst. Time to put their flash finding abilities to the test as far as warranty coverage goes.
 

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It
In what circumstance(s) ?
Spark knock doesn't sound like that.

Spark knock sounds more like pins being dropped on a glass table, if that makes sense to you.

The noise in your video absolutely sounds mechanical.
I just listened to the video, holy crap. That sounds very mechanical and terminal.
 


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Well she's going to the dealership on Friday. I can't bring it sooner because I want to get the stock intake back on too, and that is sitting in a basement 3 hours away. Seeing as how I'm now carless I had to wait a day for a good deal on a rental.
 

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Yea, the lack of metal in the oil and the no knock count is giving me hope, but I'm sure she'll be getting some new bearings at least and a whole new engine at worst. Time to put their flash finding abilities to the test as far as warranty coverage goes.
The "knock count" with this ECU is more of a misfire count than an instance of spark knock counter.

Did you drain the oil and drop the pan? Pulling the dipstick won't show you metal, unfortunately. Heavy metal drops to the pan and collects.
 
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Sgtstaadanko

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The "knock count" with this ECU is more of a misfire count than an instance of spark knock counter.

Did you drain the oil and drop the pan? Pulling the dipstick won't show you metal, unfortunately. Heavy metal drops to the pan and collects.
No I haven't, I'm stuck at work at the moment. I was thinking about doing it tonight, but then also just thought why not let Honda figure it out. I don't have the tools or experience to swap a bearing so at best I would just be tracking down the problem for them.
 

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No I haven't, I'm stuck at work at the moment. I was thinking about doing it tonight, but then also just thought why not let Honda figure it out. I don't have the tools or experience to swap a bearing so at best I would just be tracking down the problem for them.
If the engine sounds like that, sticking new bearings in is probably not the proper route of repair.

The crankshaft's journals for the affected bearings are likely damaged.

We have a rule of thumb here; we don't rebuild engines that have spun bearings using the original crank/rods. They always end up doing it again, no matter how perfect the machine work and clearances are, inevitably. You will end up with a new engine if Honda doe the repairs. The techs don't rebuild anything; they just pull and replace everything like that.
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