Water-meth injector

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123sillyboy123

123sillyboy123

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don't stop there! I need the dets! lol did you go Snow Failsafe or AEM? how was the install? Dyno it yet? I'm leaning more towards water/Meth vs port injection now since it seems simpler and easier to install.
i will post some pictures later.. but I put the pump in spare tire foam compartment .. mount the tank on the left side of the trunk where it has a small space that fit the small tank perfectly..
everything can be done in oem fitment..

We didnt push it to limit.. meth is on from 15psi to 23psi full on.
Dyno number is 410whp / 385wtq..
torque is pretty much flat from 3.5 k to redline.. very long power band.
I go with Snow instead of AEM so far so good.. i have it only 2 months.
The tank that comes with it is 3.5qt only, very small tank. Definitely good for street but for track, you might need to refill it.

I dont drive crazy on street so i dont always get over 15psi, each tank will last me like 2 gas refills but the sensor will flash you anyway when it is running low.
I used 2 jar of water - meth so far since 2 months ago..
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RBrackett

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i will post some pictures later.. but I put the pump in spare tire foam compartment .. mount the tank on the left side of the trunk where it has a small space that fit the small tank perfectly..
everything can be done in oem fitment..

We didnt push it to limit.. meth is on from 15psi to 23psi full on.
Dyno number is 410whp / 385wtq..
torque is pretty much flat from 3.5 k to redline.. very long power band.
I go with Snow instead of AEM so far so good.. i have it only 2 months.
The tank that comes with it is 3.5qt only, very small tank. Definitely good for street but for track, you might need to refill it.

I dont drive crazy on street so i dont always get over 15psi, each tank will last me like 2 gas refills but the sensor will flash you anyway when it is running low.
I used 2 jar of water - meth so far since 2 months ago..
sweet! looking forward to the write up! im looking at the upgraded 2.5gal tank they offer, 5 gal from AEM seems excessive for my mostly street build. but 3.5qt seems too small. I'll save my questions until after the write up lol
 
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123sillyboy123

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sweet! looking forward to the write up! im looking at the upgraded 2.5gal tank they offer, 5 gal from AEM seems excessive for my mostly street build. but 3.5qt seems too small. I'll save my questions until after the write up lol
Shared some pictures...
I wish i can provide a write up but i didnt install it myself... i have some professional handles it..
So there isnt much i can share to you other than pictures.

2.5 gal is bigger.. definitely better for track..
However 3.5qt is enough for street use and spiritual drive... it is not like i am on boost all day long

Honda Civic 10th gen Water-meth injector 20200722_192812


Honda Civic 10th gen Water-meth injector 20200722_192817


Honda Civic 10th gen Water-meth injector 20200722_190451


Honda Civic 10th gen Water-meth injector 20200722_185436
 
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123sillyboy123

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Mind you that I did put the level sensor at the wrong place and ordered a new tank for it.. It is supposed to be near bottom of the tank, not at the top.
 

RBrackett

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Looks good! where did you find that fail safe vent mount? clean install. how's the temp with the 50/50 mix?
 


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Mind you that I did put the level sensor at the wrong place and ordered a new tank for it.. It is supposed to be near bottom of the tank, not at the top.
Im interested on the fail safe as I have the same kit you have installed. I chose to go with stainless steel lines. The car is putting down about 405whp/400wtq. Had the ramp up on 12-22psi

If you are using Hondata or Ktuner there is no failsafe integration. There is a couple of solutions for example wiring a switch to the wastegate to dump the boost if the failsafe activates.
 
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123sillyboy123

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Im interested on the fail safe as I have the same kit you have installed. I chose to go with stainless steel lines. The car is putting down about 405whp/400wtq. Had the ramp up on 12-22psi

If you are using Hondata or Ktuner there is no failsafe integration. There is a couple of solutions for example wiring a switch to the wastegate to dump the boost if the failsafe activates.
My power is about the same as yours..
I cap my wtq to 385.. as i find 400wtq has too much spin and hard to put down all power on road..
My meth starts spray at 15psi and max out 23psi...

This fail safe is good
https://www.aemelectronics.com/prod...njection-gauges/water-methanol-failsafe-gauge
 

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My power is about the same as yours..
I cap my wtq to 385.. as i find 400wtq has too much spin and hard to put down all power on road..
My meth starts spray at 15psi and max out 23psi...

This fail safe is good
https://www.aemelectronics.com/prod...njection-gauges/water-methanol-failsafe-gauge
Thats very true on my case I use hondata tcs to mitigate the wheel spin. I checked that failsafe before I installed my kit. The failsafe works by monitoring the flow and if it gets out side of the parameters it activates a signal. How exactly are you using it?
 

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My power is about the same as yours..
I cap my wtq to 385.. as i find 400wtq has too much spin and hard to put down all power on road..
My meth starts spray at 15psi and max out 23psi...

This fail safe is good
https://www.aemelectronics.com/prod...njection-gauges/water-methanol-failsafe-gauge
Are you able to elaborate on what exactly the Failsafe does? It was my understanding there's no inputs on the ECU to switch maps or pull timing, so what happens if meth runs out or pump fails?
 

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Are you able to elaborate on what exactly the Failsafe does? It was my understanding there's no inputs on the ECU to switch maps or pull timing, so what happens if meth runs out or pump fails?
you will run lean because the ecu cant give the fuel asked at wot if the fp is close to 90%
 


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you will run lean because the ecu cant give the fuel asked at wot if the fp is close to 90%
Thanks, I understand what will happen to the motor if the meth runs out - lean and go BOOM. I mean what happens at the ECU/electronics level if the meth goes out. What does the failsafe do?
 
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Bringing back from the dead. Has anyone run just "water" injection for lower IATs? Seems like the only fast and sure way of lower temps? And since no fuel ... no danger. Also cheap (H20, right) ?
Am I wrong? Just curious. Only asking since it has been like 90+ degrees for 3 straight moths in Florida so far. haha
 

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Bringing back from the dead. Has anyone run just "water" injection for lower IATs? Seems like the only fast and sure way of lower temps? And since no fuel ... no danger. Also cheap (H20, right) ?
Am I wrong? Just curious. Only asking since it has been like 90+ degrees for 3 straight moths in Florida so far. haha
The problem is that it only cools the IATs, not the IAT2 which is the initial intake temp. If that gets too high, like it does often in Florida summers, you won't get a huge benefit. I've had a Snow Performance Stage 1 running just water initially, and you actually notice a slight decrease in performance running just water. Add in meth and a tune and you start to see a benefit.
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