Wastegate actuator calibration NEED HELP!!!

[Cody FKH8R]

Recently swapped in a P700 and have the error code. Can someone elaborate on how to manually calibrate the actuator?

Sponsored

 

[sLing]

https://www.full-race.com/articles/honda-civic-type-r-fk8-electronic-wastegate-actuator-calibration

 

[Dankershim]

Which error code did you get after the install, were you making no boost? Low boost?

 

[Cody FKH8R]

I don’t remember what the exactt code was, but it wouldn’t build past 1lb.

 

[m_kluch]

See the link someone posted above. Looking on Flashpro, what is your wastegate position with the key on but engine off? Should be very close to the wastegate command of 0.00mm

 

[CTRnFun]

I am also having an issue with the wastegate actuator calibration. I installed the P700 and moved my wastegate from the OEM to it. I have been attempting to get it key on/engine off to 1.30v and getting my readings with a voltmeter. I have my laptop connected to my flash pro and use this to monitor the WG vs WGCMD and its allowed variance of .02mm.

I am aware of the Full Race link. The guide is either inaccurate or incomplete. It does not tell you about unplugging the wastegate while in key on/engine off to cut the power and create a CEL for the wastegate being unplugged. Then plug back in and since it has a CEL, you don't hear the buzzing from the actuator but you do get a voltage reading from a voltmeter. I THINK this is when you adjust to the 1.30v. I THINK once you have the voltage in range, you now reset the ECU to clear the CEL.

Does anyone know if the ECU is reset and the CEL clears by just selecting Clear DTC's from the Flash Pro manager on a PC? Do we have to do a hard reset by touching the unplugged battery cables for 10 minutes? Does reflashing the ECU have the same effect as the ECU reset and clearing of any CEL's? Are all or some of these valid ECU reset options?

After the ECU reset, this should be when you start the engine and the ECU does a calibration and learns the new position.

Then you would use some means (Flash Pro Manager and laptop in my case) to monitor the WG vs WGCMD and adjust the actuator arm to within the .02mm variance while in key on/engine off mode once again. Not forgetting that you can't do those adjustments while you hear the buzzing, which indicates the actuator motor has tension and you could damage it.

I am still not certain if simply pulling the actuator plug and then making adjustments to the nuts before plugging it back in is how you are supposed to do this.

I am in the process of getting an e-tune and this is holding it up. Tuner saw logs showing slow to build boost and not reaching command. He also saw WG vs WGCMD not within variance. I did a boost test, built up to 25lbs and held very well, to rule that out. He stated that my issue was either the wastegate not closing completely, or I have a plumbing error (pretty sure he meant vacuum leak or hose).

This is my experience so far with the calibration:
- Key on/engine off and pulling the actuator plug, no codes.
- Plug it back in and the power/buzzing starts back up and pulls tension back on the wastegate arm.
- I thought it was supposed to give a code for wastegate not plugged in. It only does that if from an off state, it is unplugged and then put into key on engine off. Now lights and alarms for wastegate being unplugged.
- Now when I plug it in with the code in the system, no power/buzzing but I am reading a voltage from the probing of pins 3 and 4 via voltmeter method.
- I think this is when I am supposed to adjust to 1.30v
- Clear codes/ECU reset.
- Start engine/learn WG position. Some results looking at the voltage after this seemed promising. Turning car off and then into key on/engine off would now give a higher or lower voltage. The WG vs WGCMD seems to jump around, it would go up to around .15mm at idle after a drive and sometimes the WG would only get to around 7.80mm with WGCMD calling for 8.00mm.


I did have to swap out 2 vacuum hoses, both of the ones that connect directly to the turbo. Both are from I think O'reillys. The shorter thicker one may have a crimp. Does anyone have a part number for the hoses? I am sure I missed some things. I hope to be corrected if anyone finds an issue with my thoughts or facts.

 

[Scarybear06]

I am also having an issue with the wastegate actuator calibration. I installed the P700 and moved my wastegate from the OEM to it. I have been attempting to get it key on/engine off to 1.30v and getting my readings with a voltmeter. I have my laptop connected to my flash pro and use this to monitor the WG vs WGCMD and its allowed variance of .02mm.

I am aware of the Full Race link. The guide is either inaccurate or incomplete. It does not tell you about unplugging the wastegate while in key on/engine off to cut the power and create a CEL for the wastegate being unplugged. Then plug back in and since it has a CEL, you don't hear the buzzing from the actuator but you do get a voltage reading from a voltmeter. I THINK this is when you adjust to the 1.30v. I THINK once you have the voltage in range, you now reset the ECU to clear the CEL.

Does anyone know if the ECU is reset and the CEL clears by just selecting Clear DTC's from the Flash Pro manager on a PC? Do we have to do a hard reset by touching the unplugged battery cables for 10 minutes? Does reflashing the ECU have the same effect as the ECU reset and clearing of any CEL's? Are all or some of these valid ECU reset options?

After the ECU reset, this should be when you start the engine and the ECU does a calibration and learns the new position.

Then you would use some means (Flash Pro Manager and laptop in my case) to monitor the WG vs WGCMD and adjust the actuator arm to within the .02mm variance while in key on/engine off mode once again. Not forgetting that you can't do those adjustments while you hear the buzzing, which indicates the actuator motor has tension and you could damage it.

I am still not certain if simply pulling the actuator plug and then making adjustments to the nuts before plugging it back in is how you are supposed to do this.

I am in the process of getting an e-tune and this is holding it up. Tuner saw logs showing slow to build boost and not reaching command. He also saw WG vs WGCMD not within variance. I did a boost test, built up to 25lbs and held very well, to rule that out. He stated that my issue was either the wastegate not closing completely, or I have a plumbing error (pretty sure he meant vacuum leak or hose).

This is my experience so far with the calibration:
- Key on/engine off and pulling the actuator plug, no codes.
- Plug it back in and the power/buzzing starts back up and pulls tension back on the wastegate arm.
- I thought it was supposed to give a code for wastegate not plugged in. It only does that if from an off state, it is unplugged and then put into key on engine off. Now lights and alarms for wastegate being unplugged.
- Now when I plug it in with the code in the system, no power/buzzing but I am reading a voltage from the probing of pins 3 and 4 via voltmeter method.
- I think this is when I am supposed to adjust to 1.30v
- Clear codes/ECU reset.
- Start engine/learn WG position. Some results looking at the voltage after this seemed promising. Turning car off and then into key on/engine off would now give a higher or lower voltage. The WG vs WGCMD seems to jump around, it would go up to around .15mm at idle after a drive and sometimes the WG would only get to around 7.80mm with WGCMD calling for 8.00mm.


I did have to swap out 2 vacuum hoses, both of the ones that connect directly to the turbo. Both are from I think O'reillys. The shorter thicker one may have a crimp. Does anyone have a part number for the hoses? I am sure I missed some things. I hope to be corrected if anyone finds an issue with my thoughts or facts.

I am also having an issue with the wastegate actuator calibration. I installed the P700 and moved my wastegate from the OEM to it. I have been attempting to get it key on/engine off to 1.30v and getting my readings with a voltmeter. I have my laptop connected to my flash pro and use this to monitor the WG vs WGCMD and its allowed variance of .02mm.

I am aware of the Full Race link. The guide is either inaccurate or incomplete. It does not tell you about unplugging the wastegate while in key on/engine off to cut the power and create a CEL for the wastegate being unplugged. Then plug back in and since it has a CEL, you don't hear the buzzing from the actuator but you do get a voltage reading from a voltmeter. I THINK this is when you adjust to the 1.30v. I THINK once you have the voltage in range, you now reset the ECU to clear the CEL.

Does anyone know if the ECU is reset and the CEL clears by just selecting Clear DTC's from the Flash Pro manager on a PC? Do we have to do a hard reset by touching the unplugged battery cables for 10 minutes? Does reflashing the ECU have the same effect as the ECU reset and clearing of any CEL's? Are all or some of these valid ECU reset options?

After the ECU reset, this should be when you start the engine and the ECU does a calibration and learns the new position.

Then you would use some means (Flash Pro Manager and laptop in my case) to monitor the WG vs WGCMD and adjust the actuator arm to within the .02mm variance while in key on/engine off mode once again. Not forgetting that you can't do those adjustments while you hear the buzzing, which indicates the actuator motor has tension and you could damage it.

I am still not certain if simply pulling the actuator plug and then making adjustments to the nuts before plugging it back in is how you are supposed to do this.

I am in the process of getting an e-tune and this is holding it up. Tuner saw logs showing slow to build boost and not reaching command. He also saw WG vs WGCMD not within variance. I did a boost test, built up to 25lbs and held very well, to rule that out. He stated that my issue was either the wastegate not closing completely, or I have a plumbing error (pretty sure he meant vacuum leak or hose).

This is my experience so far with the calibration:
- Key on/engine off and pulling the actuator plug, no codes.
- Plug it back in and the power/buzzing starts back up and pulls tension back on the wastegate arm.
- I thought it was supposed to give a code for wastegate not plugged in. It only does that if from an off state, it is unplugged and then put into key on engine off. Now lights and alarms for wastegate being unplugged.
- Now when I plug it in with the code in the system, no power/buzzing but I am reading a voltage from the probing of pins 3 and 4 via voltmeter method.
- I think this is when I am supposed to adjust to 1.30v
- Clear codes/ECU reset.
- Start engine/learn WG position. Some results looking at the voltage after this seemed promising. Turning car off and then into key on/engine off would now give a higher or lower voltage. The WG vs WGCMD seems to jump around, it would go up to around .15mm at idle after a drive and sometimes the WG would only get to around 7.80mm with WGCMD calling for 8.00mm.


I did have to swap out 2 vacuum hoses, both of the ones that connect directly to the turbo. Both are from I think O'reillys. The shorter thicker one may have a crimp. Does anyone have a part number for the hoses? I am sure I missed some things. I hope to be corrected if anyone finds an issue with my thoughts or facts.

I literally have this same issue. Has anyone had any success?

 

[Cody FKH8R]

I literally have this same issue. Has anyone had any success?

I just loosened the nut and went into hondata, cleared codes, restarted car…repeat until in correct parameters.

 

[Scarybear06]

I just loosened the nut and went into hondata, cleared codes, restarted car…repeat until in correct parameters.

Did you have to measure the voltage still or were you letting it “self correct?”

 

[Cody FKH8R]

Did you have to measure the voltage still or were you letting it “self correct?”

You only have to do that if your aren’t using hondata(not sure about ktuner), so no, I just let it self correct. After a few times it was back to correct parameters

 

[Scarybear06]

I guess without sounding stupid, how did you know it was back within parameters? The codes didn’t come back or the system problems didn’t pop back up? Or did you measure it? I’m using hondata too btw.

 

[Cody FKH8R]

check the full race walkthrough. If you open the sensors menu it will show you the wastegate position

 

[CTRnFun]

As far as I know of, Hondata does not show the Voltage reading Scarybear06 is referring to. Setting the voltage at 1.3V to get it between 1.26 and 1.42 I believe it should be. You need to either use probe wires to measure the voltage between pins 3 and 4 on the WG actuator plug, or use a diagnostics tool that can measure it live with no probe wires. I picked up a MaxiSys making the voltage setting easy to see. The setting must be done while the ECU has an error code. This will shut down the power to the WG actuator, should not buzz. That is when you should make adjustments to the WG actuator nuts. If it is buzzing, it did not shut off the power properly to the WG actuator. In this case, pull the WG plug before putting the car into key on/engine off. That will surely get a code, then you plug in the WG actuator, it will buzz for a moment and then go quiet. That is the time to adjust. When adjusted, you then clear the code and reset the ECU/reflash tune. If you don't get codes when getting on it after this, you should be in range. Then it may need fine tuning using Hondata and the sensors menu. That menu is not voltage but distance in mm.

The readings will not always show 0.00 WGC vs 0.00 WG actual. It should say 0.00 when you are initially getting on the throttle, until the called for boost approaches. You will be at idle and see 0.16mm or something at times. The car is not attempting to build boost at that time so I don't think that matters.

The car will auto calibrate on every start once it is in the voltage range. I am a numbers guy and seeing this system showing strange numbers at times was driving me mad. Variations can be caused by heat levels due to metal expansion etc. So when you have been driving, but make a stop and shut the car down, it will recalibrate when started again using the new position caused by the heat. Not sure if it can do this while on the same drive cycle.

I have pulled the P700 as I can't get it to hit it's numbers still. With the stock turbo back in, I was hitting my numbers and pushing around 25 PSI. I have moved to the MHI stage 2 turbo. No wastegate to calibrate as it comes calibrated on the turbo. Easy way, I know. I am on a Drob basemap tune for the MHI and will be working on the remote tune over the next few weeks at least.

 

[Scarybear06]

As far as I know of, Hondata does not show the Voltage reading Scarybear06 is referring to. Setting the voltage at 1.3V to get it between 1.26 and 1.42 I believe it should be. You need to either use probe wires to measure the voltage between pins 3 and 4 on the WG actuator plug, or use a diagnostics tool that can measure it live with no probe wires. I picked up a MaxiSys making the voltage setting easy to see. The setting must be done while the ECU has an error code. This will shut down the power to the WG actuator, should not buzz. That is when you should make adjustments to the WG actuator nuts. If it is buzzing, it did not shut off the power properly to the WG actuator. In this case, pull the WG plug before putting the car into key on/engine off. That will surely get a code, then you plug in the WG actuator, it will buzz for a moment and then go quiet. That is the time to adjust. When adjusted, you then clear the code and reset the ECU/reflash tune. If you don't get codes when getting on it after this, you should be in range. Then it may need fine tuning using Hondata and the sensors menu. That menu is not voltage but distance in mm.

The readings will not always show 0.00 WGC vs 0.00 WG actual. It should say 0.00 when you are initially getting on the throttle, until the called for boost approaches. You will be at idle and see 0.16mm or something at times. The car is not attempting to build boost at that time so I don't think that matters.

The car will auto calibrate on every start once it is in the voltage range. I am a numbers guy and seeing this system showing strange numbers at times was driving me mad. Variations can be caused by heat levels due to metal expansion etc. So when you have been driving, but make a stop and shut the car down, it will recalibrate when started again using the new position caused by the heat. Not sure if it can do this while on the same drive cycle.

I have pulled the P700 as I can't get it to hit it's numbers still. With the stock turbo back in, I was hitting my numbers and pushing around 25 PSI. I have moved to the MHI stage 2 turbo. No wastegate to calibrate as it comes calibrated on the turbo. Easy way, I know. I am on a Drob basemap tune for the MHI and will be working on the remote tune over the next few weeks at least.

I appreciate the time for the reply. I did end up loosening the nuts and let it self adjust then tightened it. Cleared the codes and then reflashed the tune. I haven’t gottenany error codes after that so I assume I within parameters of distance. As for the time I am doing remote with DRob as well.

 

[CTRnFun]

The readings will not always show 0.00 WGC vs 0.00 WG actual. It should say 0.00 when you are initially getting on the throttle, until the called for boost approaches. You will be at idle and see 0.16mm or something at times. The car is not attempting to build boost at that time so I don't think that matters.

I confirmed with DRob, WG only needs to show 0.00 when spooling.

Sponsored