1.5T Want stronger internals for more power.. what do I need?

MacKharoni · Jul 6, 2019

imcrspy said:
Isnt the Si block the same as the base? Just slightly stronger internals? Might as well just build my engine with fresh internals right?

You are correct. some people on here are ignit

r.camlin · Jul 6, 2019

imcrspy said:
Isnt the Si block the same as the base? Just slightly stronger internals? Might as well just build my engine with fresh internals right?

Correct. It'd be more cost effective to buy a set of Brian Crower rods and a bigger turbo. You'd probably have an engine better than Si at that point.

ThatDustyFox · Jul 6, 2019

r.camlin said:
Correct. It'd be more cost effective to buy a set of Brian Crower rods and a bigger turbo. You'd probably have an engine better than Si at that point.

I would stay away from the Crower rods and go with the Saenz Performance Line. They're expensive, but worth every penny.

imcrspy · Jul 6, 2019

Thank you guys for actually useful information! Exactly what I was looking for!

Next question, and I guess I should probably contact my tuner directly, but KTuner should allow me to raise the rev limit once I build the engine right? I'm assuming i'd need new valves and valve sprints to make this possible?

Also, how viable is it to switch to an Si ecu? I'm sure it's not plug and play but how difficult would it be? I know that the Si ecu isn't as aggressive with knock control as the base ECU.

ThatDustyFox · Jul 6, 2019

imcrspy said:
Thank you guys for actually useful information! Exactly what I was looking for!

Next question, and I guess I should probably contact my tuner directly, but KTuner should allow me to raise the rev limit once I build the engine right? I'm assuming i'd need new valves and valve sprints to make this possible?

Also, how viable is it to switch to an Si ecu? I'm sure it's not plug and play but how difficult would it be? I know that the Si ecu isn't as aggressive with knock control as the base ECU.

You would need just about every wire and harness out of an Si to be able to successfully complete the swap. Switching to Motec would be a much more viable option if you have the money. I would suggest starting with the Saenz rods and Si pistons and going from there.

LilToTo17 · Jul 6, 2019

imcrspy said:
Isnt the Si block the same as the base? Just slightly stronger internals? Might as well just build my engine with fresh internals right?

All different internals, sensors, fuel pump,

Dirt · Nov 21, 2019

https://twostepperformance.com/built-l15b7-1-5l-civic-for-the-2017-honda-civic-si/

kshawn · Nov 21, 2019

Dirt said:
https://twostepperformance.com/built-l15b7-1-5l-civic-for-the-2017-honda-civic-si/

This is a great packaged option.

already have mine

Jes_si562 · Nov 21, 2019

Honestly op you don't need to change to an si motor for the fact that it's almost identical, but of course si block is better then the base but it doesn't mean your block can't be built internally to be reliable. My suggestion is, if you want to save money is to build the block your currently have. Just get some rods with piston and that alone would handle the power your trying to reach without it blowing up, just have a good shop that knows what they are doing build it for you Simple, stock sleeves will handle 400whp and for the guy that is saying a 1.5 can't be a track car he's clearly don't know what he's saying cause any engine can be used for anything if it's built properly. Just get some springs and reatiners so you won't have to worry about dropping a valve

Dirt · Nov 22, 2019

Jes_si562 said:
Honestly op you don't need to change to an si motor for the fact that it's almost identical, but of course si block is better then the base but it doesn't mean your block can't be built internally to be reliable. My suggestion is, if you want to save money is to build the block your currently have. Just get some rods with piston and that alone would handle the power your trying to reach without it blowing up, just have a good shop that knows what they are doing build it for you Simple, stock sleeves will handle 400whp and for the guy that is saying a 1.5 can't be a track car he's clearly don't know what he's saying cause any engine can be used for anything if it's built properly. Just get some springs and reatiners so you won't have to worry about dropping a valve

It's a ticking time bomb with stock sleeves. If you're going to build it just do CSS and you don't have to do it again when your stock sleeves go.

https://twostepperformance.com/built-l15b7-1-5l-civic-for-the-2017-honda-civic-si/

Jes_si562 · Nov 22, 2019

Dirt said:
It's a ticking time bomb with stock sleeves. If you're going to build it just do CSS and you don't have to do it again when your stock sleeves go.

https://twostepperformance.com/built-l15b7-1-5l-civic-for-the-2017-honda-civic-si/

Haven't heard anyone cracking there sleeves at 350whp

Dirt · Nov 22, 2019

Jes_si562 said:
Haven't heard anyone cracking there sleeves at 350whp

If you're going to build it then track it a lot why risk it? Put the extra money for CSS. Because in the long run the builder is going to want more power eventually.

highroller · Jan 20, 2020

imcrspy said:
Hey guys, so i'm extremely happy with my setup right now. Running the VitViper Si turbo tuned by DRob and making 260whp/250whp on stock internals and bolt ons on an extremely conservative tune. I'm already on E85 and i'm building my car mainly for track and canyons so consistent reliable power is key. At this point I want to plan for a bigger turbo but before that happens I want to build my internals to handle it. I have a few questions hopefully you guys can help me out with:

1. If I stay stock block, can I just install new internals like rods, pistons, valve springs, retainers, and keep driving on the same setup now until i'm ready for a bigger turbo. ( ie is there any extra work that needs to be done besides installing new internals )

2. Best way to get around the crappy base ecu and it's super sensitive KC?

3. Besides rods, what should I actually replace to ensure reliability?

4. What's your opinion on the best way to get to 350whp reliably?

My eventual goal is 350whp/350tq reliably with a usable power band. I already have an MFactory LSD installed so planning on keeping the stock transmission. I love my FK7 but it doesn't seem like too many people are modifying them to extreme extents and I do understand why. I'm trying to sell myself on continuing building my FK7 but i'm getting tired of people asking if it's a Type R and why I didn't get one with all the money i've already spent. Eventually it just gets to you and you start questioning your own sanity lol. Anyways appreciate any advice you guys can give me!

hey @imcrspy
I was wondering which way you went... your mods on internals might help others too..
Moreover I am mroe worried about the tranny than internals... is your hatchback CVT? I've come to know anything above 250 of torque is an invitation to rip apart cvt...

xjoshuax89 · Jan 21, 2020

highroller said:
hey @imcrspy
I was wondering which way you went... your mods on internals might help others too..
Moreover I am mroe worried about the tranny than internals... is your hatchback CVT? I've come to know anything above 250 of torque is an invitation to rip apart cvt...

No. Hes 6mt. Cvts dont have a LSD...

86salmon · Jan 21, 2020

xjoshuax89 said:
No. Hes 6mt. Cvts dont have a LSD...

Hatchback doesn't either. It's aftermarket... so could be either

1.5T Want stronger internals for more power.. what do I need?

MacKharoni

Senior Member

r.camlin

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ThatDustyFox

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imcrspy

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ThatDustyFox

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LilToTo17

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Dirt

kshawn

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Jes_si562

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Dirt

Jes_si562

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Dirt

highroller

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xjoshuax89

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86salmon

It's Hedley, Hedley Lamarr!

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