W1 Turbo Alarming Failure Rate

kytos

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Which ACT clutch are you running? Does it have your seal of approval? How does it hold up on the track, if you track it?
He has the same as mine, which is the street kit (HC10-HDSS). The clutch is holding fine the TSP stage1 tune and I've already tracked it, so far so good. I've changed to this clutch because with the heat of the track and the tune the stock clutch started to slip after a few laps. Of course the rev hang is now gone, it's night and day difference every shift.
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It barely has 1000kms. But so far yes.
A friend of mine installed it months ago and he's happy too.

It seems people are happy with it on this forum too. I did my fair share of research.
It appears to be the second best option after the type R retrofit.

Pedal feel is almost like stock, so very comfy.

The one I installed was the ACT street disc + light weight flywheel (but not the lightest).

I will track the car again in September I think. I've done some spirited driving and it works like a charm so far.
Any crazy adjustment you had to do clutch pedal ? Are you running the stock clutch MC ? Plan on going with the ACT and sprung 6 puck.
 

redcivic19x

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He has the same as mine, which is the street kit (HC10-HDSS). The clutch is holding fine the TSP stage1 tune and I've already tracked it, so far so good. I've changed to this clutch because with the heat of the track and the tune the stock clutch started to slip after a few laps. Of course the rev hang is now gone, it's night and day difference every shift.
I have this clutch too. I’ve put about 4K miles on it without any issues at all. I’d say the clutch feels ever so slightly heavier, but I actually prefer it that way. The slight stiffness just feels overall better. I’m on a custom tune that makes 307 hp/297 tq and it’s held up without any issues at all. I do have rattle in the clutch in first gear, but it gets better once it’s warmed up. I don’t track my car though, so no idea how it would hold up there, but I’m assuming it would still perform just fine.
 

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I have the ACT street kit, didnt upgrade the line or change the CMC and have 0 issues ~10k miles on it
 

David228cx

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Any crazy adjustment you had to do clutch pedal ? Are you running the stock clutch MC ? Plan on going with the ACT and sprung 6 puck.
No, I changed the master cylinder.
Just a bit of adjustment.

Sprung 6 puck, I don't think that would be worth it unless you drag the car or make A LOT of power. The street kit already holds up more than I could get out of the engine anyway
 


Boosted_01_R

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No, I changed the master cylinder.
Just a bit of adjustment.

Sprung 6 puck, I don't think that would be worth it unless you drag the car or make A LOT of power. The street kit already holds up more than I could get out of the engine anyway
Not sure if you covered this, which clutch MC did you go with ?

I always end up tracking my cars lol, run the 6 puck ACT on past cars, love the ability to slip the clutch without having the worry about glazing/wearing out organic style clutches.
 

IonEX-T

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Add me to the list of failures! Part of the exhaust wheel ejected :(
Honda Civic 10th gen W1 Turbo Alarming Failure Rate IMG_2861.JPG
Honda Civic 10th gen W1 Turbo Alarming Failure Rate IMG_2860.JPG
 

gtman

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Sorry to see that. I know you recently posted that you weren't hitting your boost targets and thought you had a boost leak. And ironically I just saw you added a log and I was getting ready to look at it.

Going back to the original post in this thread, Derek may be 100% accurate that these turbos are a problem and not just an isolated here and there thing.

After emailing back and forth with DRob ... he said he has personally seen 50-60% of the W1 turbos fail. They "kill the thrust washer, crack the exhaust housing, or physically eject part of the exhuast wheel" in the instances he has seen.
 
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IonEX-T

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How many miles where you running this?
Previous owner 3500 miles and I had it on for about 500 miles. Just enough time for me to get finished tuning!
 


gtman

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Previous owner 3500 miles and I had it on for about 500 miles. Just enough time for me to get finished tuning!
So to be fair here, do you have any idea of the kind of psi and tune the guy you bought it from was running?
 

IonEX-T

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IonEX-T

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So to be fair here, do you have any idea of the kind of psi and tune the guy you bought it from was running?
I'm not sure but it was in a CRV
 

Zedaine

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So I had the unfortunate experience of recently experiencing a failed W1 that I bought late spring of this year and installed it 4th of July weekend. It was a brand new 9 blade turbine model and I had used it for about 4 months and 5000-6000 miles. However I did have the pleasure of experiencing the wonderful support that 27won does offer, which definitely helped ease the pain.

I had a base file for this turbo and all of my bolt ons from DRob already to go after I had the turbo installed and then I was fully tuned within 2 weeks after that.

The failure happened as I was out on a cruise on the 24th of October doing some spirited driving and on about my 7th or 8th wot of the drive I was pulling onto the highway from an on ramp and went to redline in 2nd gear and when I engaged 3rd and put the gas pedal down my RPMs stopped at 4K RPM (pretty much right where it lands after shifting from 2nd to 3rd after redline). I stepped off the gas and then back on and everything seemed to be working fine.

However, when I got off the highway, stopped, and then started going from 1st gear I heard a loud cry like R2-D2 being blown up in Star Wars when boost would slowly start to engage between 2000-3000rpm. I did a few more pulls and data logged them to check if I was still making my normal boost targets and I was (24psi from the MAP sensor). Everything seemed fine, besides the obvious turbo screaming in pain at low RPMs. However, I recorded a video of the sound and sent it to Vincent at 27Won with the story of what happened and he sent me a replacement right away which I got 2 days later.

Because this car is my daily driver and the turbo seemed to be working "okay" and I wasn't burning any oil yet, I decided to continue to drive it gently to work until I could fix it and just keep an eye on things. By the 4th day my cold start sounded a bit rough and I noticed a bit of dirty dark smoke coming out of the tail pipe at idle, so I parked my car until I could get to it that weekend, at least I already had the replacement turbo on standby.

The replacement was an 11 blade turbine model, according to Vincent they haven't found much difference between their 9 blade and 11 blade models. After driving with it I've found the 11 blade seems to spool quicker, which I like more, or maybe its because I have a proper working unit?

Anyways, that weekend I got the turbo replaced and I couldn't find anything obviously physically wrong with the turbo itself, the blades looked fine and they would spin freely, shaft play was minimal to none which seemed normal even on a new unit, but I'm not an expert on journal bearing turbos and how much shaft play is acceptable or normal, but it didn't seem excessive. Either way there wasn't any catastrophic damage, how boring.

I did have some oil in my inlet pipe and obviously I had some coming out the exhaust side as well since it was burning a little bit of oil.

Vincent did call me personally the day after I got the replacement turbo to make sure I was good to go and also to let me know he would also be available via instagram messenger that weekend if I had any questions or concerns during the install. This was my second time installing this turbo so it did go a bit faster but it was nice to have support if I needed it. I took my time and had the turbo out of the car and the new one prepped and ready to go back in the next day.

Install went great and there were no leaks anywhere. The new turbo has been running fine for a couple thousand miles now. However, I wont be satisfied until I get at least a good year out of it and then hopefully I am in the clear. Fingers crossed.

Vincent did get back to me and let me know that the failure with my turbo was a material issue with the wheels and so it was a manufacturing defect there. He said that specific issue was very rare.

27Won support is excellent and some of the best I have ever dealt with in any industry. As far as recommending the w1 turbo itself? That is harder to say, if you don't mind the possibility of having to replace at least 1 to get a good one, then maybe it is. However if that is out of the question then you are better off looking at another product. It's probably still too early for me to give the replacement one a thumbs up until I've known I can run it hard for at least a year.

As far as how the w1 works when they are operating as they should? This is a perfectly sized turbo for this platform, still small enough to spool fast but makes power all the way to redline and on this L15BA, I really don't want to push it anymore than the w1 is capable of anyways.

The w2 is definitely beefier and more reliable as I haven't heard of any failures from that yet and now the ball bearing version is out so hopefully that spools as fast as the w1. If this replacement w1 doesn't make it to a year, I'll probably see if I can work out something with 27won to get a w2 ball bearing at a reasonable trade. However, if this w1 does last for years to come, then it really is the perfect turbo for my engine and goals and that is what I am really hoping for.
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