Very tempting. Has anyone done this to fix his Type R transmission issue?

SiR

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So, I have had a few 2nd gears grinds, and I was looking for an answer on this forum. THE most ridiculous answer I got was "don't drive the car hard, fixed". As a honda lover myself, it was the most laughable excuse I have ever heard. In the Honda civic's flag ship car, famous Nur record holder, a pure track oriented car. I wasn't suppose to shift fast?

Anyways, I gave up on the fanboys' answers and went to do my own research, and came across this youtuber, and he just confirmed all my suspicions about the factory transmission issue. I just wonder if anyone have fixed his the same way. I already tweaked my CMC a bit, and it's definitely better now, but i'm looking for a clutch replacement to remove the extra damper and eliminate the issue once for all.

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Mcclaughry95

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Alot of people have done this. Its not the master cylinder tho. The clutch delay valve is inside the slave cylinder.
 

StanMan

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Very few people with the gear grind actually have a real transmission issue of some kind. If it was a real issue Honda would have found it.

It's simply the fact that the clutch has to travel substantially farther than the short throw shifter and when you're trying to shift that stick absolutely as fast as you can from time to time the foot doesn't keep up. That's literally all it is, just a simple user error.

It's always the 2nd gear because 1st goes so quickly and people don't always prepare their leg and they know how critical it is to have a fast shift into 2nd to get the car moving so I think it's nerves for a lot of people.

Once you know this is the cause you'll almost never make the mistake again unless you let yourself get sloppy- which can definitely happen when you go a few thousand miles without a grind.
 

ez12a

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I mean in the nur record video you mention the dude grinds it several times if you listen closely.
 


TheCanadian

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P.S: I did not watch the video, I do not like that channel

I do not see how the clutch delay valve has anything to do with the grind.

It's a one way valve - It reduces how quickly the clutch engages after the pedal is released. It doesn't cause the clutch to disengage slower after the pedal is pressed down. With that being said, the clutch will be disengaged normally when you press the pedal - if the grind occurs it's isolated to the transmission.
 
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SiR

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P.S: I did not watch the video, I do not like that channel

I do not see how the clutch delay valve has anything to do with the grind.

It's a one way valve - It reduces how quickly the clutch engages after the pedal is released. It doesn't cause the clutch to disengage slower after the pedal is pressed down. With that being said, the clutch will be disengaged normally when you press the pedal - if the grind occurs it's isolated to the transmission.
Right or wrong, i haven't tried his solution yet, so I can really judge the person. I posted the link to get some feedback before I commit to his fix.

Anyways, after 2 CMC and Clutch position adjustments, I purposely aimed to make the CMC travel farther and clutch throw longer, and it's working for me so far. I'm gona do more testing with 1st revved even higher and shift. If everything works out, then i will be happy I can finally lay this issue to rest and enjoy the car as intended on the track
 

Mcclaughry95

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First thing I would do is linkage bushings and cable lock down.
Second would be fluid change to amsoil or other similar brand.
Third would be delay valve delete because the clutch feels slow to engage/disengage.
 

ImTheStatMan

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Adjust clutch pedal rod travel (free)
Change trans fluid ($30 or so for GM synchromesh)
RMM ($30 or so for an insert)
Depress clutch fully when shifting.
Done. Trans issues fixed for $60 and a few hours of labor (if you can do the wrenching yourself anyways)

Edit: Another free thing you should do just in case. Bleed your clutch fluid.

There is a lot of misinformation out there.
Delay valve has no impact on disengagement as mentioned above (it’s free though, so go ahead if you want). Cable bushings aren’t doing jack for your clutch (and in my own personal experience provided almost no discernible benefit and weren’t were the time/money).
 
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tde1205

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So, I have had a few 2nd gears grinds, and I was looking for an answer on this forum. THE most ridiculous answer I got was "don't drive the car hard, fixed". As a honda lover myself, it was the most laughable excuse I have ever heard. In the Honda civic's flag ship car, famous Nur record holder, a pure track oriented car. I wasn't suppose to shift fast?

Anyways, I gave up on the fanboys' answers and went to do my own research, and came across this youtuber, and he just confirmed all my suspicions about the factory transmission issue. I just wonder if anyone have fixed his the same way. I already tweaked my CMC a bit, and it's definitely better now, but i'm looking for a clutch replacement to remove the extra damper and eliminate the issue once for all.

every typeR driver should sub to flying gato, any questions you have on this car he might have a video on it already.

as for the tranny grind, idk - i have a '21 SGP , i just feel the shifting notchy & clicky. no grinds that weren't my fault. when running the car at high rpms I've noticed that a full step down on the clutch helps the shifts smoother.
 

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So far, several thing people done to prevent this unwanted grind. Delay valve removal, modified CMC cylinder, adjust clutch paddle displacement, Transmission oil replacement, after market shifter & bushing.

Getting better transmission oil (amsoil or ACdelco) and a aftermarket shifter is usually enough to solve grind or improve the shift feel(mainly 1st to 2nd notch feel).

If this doesn't fix, then the next step is to check your clutch and see if the displacement is adjust to the right position (happens to one of my friends' car, that he adjust the displacement and all his grind issue is gone, so there seems to be a chance out of factory the displacement of the clutch is off)

Delay valve is better removed but does not require if you doesn't have any issue currently. Modified CMC cylinder is totally personal preference, it has nothing to do with the grind or lock out, but will help with shifting release and engaging. (faster process)

I personally never feel the transmission can grind itself if you use it right. I have grind 2 times but I do know its my fault that I release the clutch too early. My main problem with the transmission is that 1st to 2nd notch feeling on stock. It just doesn't feel right and make me question whether I'm in gear or no. I'm glad I fix that with better transmission oil& Acuity Shifter w/bushing, they are the no doubt my best mod in anyway.
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