Using the OEM amp for clean line out(s).

[kostas]

Do you mind posting the values of the capacitors and the pins for the outputs? I'm still liable to try for a kicker key 200.4, but if I could scrounge up a cheap part from the scrap yard I wouldn't mind trying the soldering. I've done enough rework that the soldering wouldn't scare me as much as the strain relief for the outputs. Did you ever try without an external amp or is that required?

No no! Don't get confused. The caps was an "experiment" to correct the bad crossover of the fronts.
If you get line out signal from the points i used, you don't need to correct the crossover since the line out is taken before any filter/crossover.
So there are 2 options.
1) correct the crossovers with caps and drive the speakers with the OEM amp.
OR
2) get line out signal, feed it to an aftermarket amp and with this drive the speakers.

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[Ocelaris]

No no! Don't get confused. The caps was an "experiment" to correct the bad crossover of the fronts.
If you get line out signal from the points i used, you don't need to correct the crossover since the line out is taken before any filter/crossover.
So there are 2 options.
1) correct the crossovers with caps and drive the speakers with the OEM amp.
OR
2) get line out signal, feed it to an aftermarket amp and with this drive the speakers.

Thanks! That gives me a lot more confidence. Then I don't have to go crazy with an amp!


Maybe I'm missing something in the original picture, but is the ground shared between l and r? I sort of see a solder for gnd at they bottom right. And is red right, left white? My favorite reminder for colors.

 

[kostas]

Do you mind posting the values of the capacitors

Ok I found my notes about the capacitors. Here we go.

You just have to solder parallel (on top) to the existing ones the following:
Red: 10nF
Blue: 5.6nF
Orange: 3.9nF
All of them SMD 0603
This will change the crossovers for the midwoofer fc=3.32KHz and for the tweeter fc=3.3KHz.

 

[kostas]

Now, for the line out.

I have marked in red the L (FL_MIX), R (FR_MIX) and Audio GND (AGND2 & AGND). Pay attention here, if the other GND (GND2 & DGND) is used, you'll have some noise!
This is enough for the European models. The signal is full bandwidth.
It's possible that in the US models (with sub) this signal to lack the sub frequencies. In this case you can also take Sub line out from the blue spot. (can not confirm it but I'm quite sure that it stands true).

 

[Ocelaris]

Thanks, If you use these line outputs to an amp and disconnect the factory amp speaker outputs, do you need to provide a load? i.e. if you were to normally feed the factory speaker outputs into a DSP amp like the Kicker Key, it provides a load. But I wasn't sure if you provided a load? I think somewhere else someone recommended the 75 ohm, 2 watt 5% tolerance resistors which I have now in front of me.

 

[kostas]

Thanks, If you use these line outputs to an amp and disconnect the factory amp speaker outputs, do you need to provide a load? i.e. if you were to normally feed the factory speaker outputs into a DSP amp like the Kicker Key, it provides a load. But I wasn't sure if you provided a load? I think somewhere else someone recommended the 75 ohm, 2 watt 5% tolerance resistors which I have now in front of me.

Yes! you're totally right. When first tried the lineout the OEM amp wouldn't operate! It was because of the open load.
If the 75 Ohm, 2W is tested and works, go with this!
I did my own solution. From the datasheet, the amp chip works in 2 modes. In "Power amplifier mode" needs to "see" 1.5~45 ohm load to regard it as normal and over 85 ohm to regard it as open.
So I stayed on the safe side and used 39 ohm. I guess 75 works as well.
About the wattage... the higher the ohms, the lower the wattage. So 2W looks ok.
I grounded the inputs of of the amp chip's right channel input. So there is no signal on the output and thus I used only 1/2 watt!! I soldered it inside the amp .
The important conclusion? You only need 1 resistor.

 

[david.a3]

Yes! you're totally right. When first tried the lineout the OEM amp wouldn't operate! It was because of the open load.
If the 75 Ohm, 2W is tested and works, go with this!
I did my own solution. From the datasheet, the amp chip works in 2 modes. In "Power amplifier mode" needs to "see" 1.5~45 ohm load to regard it as normal and over 85 ohm to regard it as open.
So I stayed on the safe side and used 39 ohm. I guess 75 works as well.
About the wattage... the higher the ohms, the lower the wattage. So 2W looks ok.
I grounded the inputs of of the amp chip's right channel input. So there is no signal on the output and thus I used only 1/2 watt!! I soldered it inside the amp .
The important conclusion? You only need 1 resistor.

If you add load to SUB channel, will it be enabled on EU version?

 

[kostas]

If you add load to SUB channel, will it be enabled on EU version?

I remember I checked the sub channel but I think with a sound card (high impedance). So, I can't tell for sure.
I haven't put back all the plastic parts. If I find the opportunity, I'll try it and let you know.

 

[bikejog]

I did my own solution. From the datasheet, the amp chip works in 2 modes. In "Power amplifier mode"

What's the other mode?

 

[kostas]

What's the other mode?

"Line driver"

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