Upgrade flywheel or stay stock?

Oddwayne

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So the time has come to upgrade the clutch in my Si. I've been running 23 psi for over 4k miles, and the clutch slip has gotten more significant. I'm thinking of going with the FX300.

My question is:

Should I also get the ClutchMasters flywheel, and get the dampened disc clutch?

OR

Keep the stock dual mass flywheel, and get the rigid disc clutch?

Which setup is better for a daily driver? My concern is that if the stock flywheel has been damaged in any way, I would rather upgrade than pay to resurface the stock one. But I don't know how aggressive the lightweight CM flywheel feels. On the other hand, a dampened clutch should feel smoother than a rigid one, right?

How likely is it that I would need to resurface the stock flywheel? And is the CM flywheel worth the sporty feel while still being livable as an everyday commuter?

Your input is greatly appreciated.
If you’re reusing a flywheel, always have it resurfaced. At some point there is a service limit but at 23k with a slipping clutch I’d imagine you have heat spots and an uneven surface
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Oddwayne

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I doubt you "damaged" the stock flywheel, because the clutch is the wear item. The stock flywheel will be more daily driving friendly due to the momentum. The lighter flywheel will be more fun for fun driving applications. Maybe find a happy medium, light but not super light flywheel with a "friendly" clutch. Generic example - Stage 2+ rather than stage 3 .
A flywheel is a wearable item as well
 

Oddwayne

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Had a light flywheel on my impreza rs and loved it.. But I always thought you didn't want a lightweight flywheel on a turbo car because you want to keep revs up so you don't lose boost or something like that?
You lose boost once you let off the accelerator to shift anyway. Think about it.
 

5th 3l3ment

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I want to upgrade my clutch without the clutch price is it feasible to just add a better fly wheel? Being that only the dual mass fly wheel is what actually is the problem of clutch failures in Honda's since the early 90’s?
 

fenix-silver

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I want to upgrade my clutch without the clutch price is it feasible to just add a better fly wheel? Being that only the dual mass fly wheel is what actually is the problem of clutch failures in Honda's since the early 90’s?
Failure of the DMF hasn't been a common issue that I've heard and rumblings about. The issue is the clutch disk and pressure plate can't hold enough torque for much beyond stock levels. Replacing just the DMF won't fix that issue.
 


5th 3l3ment

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Failure of the DMF hasn't been a common issue that I've heard and rumblings about. The issue is the clutch disk and pressure plate can't hold enough torque for much beyond stock levels. Replacing just the DMF won't fix that issue.
got ya I appreciate it
 

RAC80

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any feedback on what people did? currently weighing up my options......
86,000 miles.
 

suhhh

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any feedback on what people did? currently weighing up my options......
86,000 miles.
I opted for Eman's Type R Retrofit clutch flywheel kit
https://www.naperformanceftw.com/ctr-clutch-retro/10thgen-si-hatchback-clutch-and-flywheel-kit

I also got his CMC and did a clutch delay valve delete during install. This is the first time I've ever switched out the clutch/flywheel and I absolutely love it. I'm still getting used to how quick the RPM's drop between shifts but it's insanely quick and like butter. Haven't experienced any lockouts yet but I broke in my clutch fully about 2 days ago so not too much driving time with it yet

I daily drive stop and go most of the week with periods of spirited driving in between when I can and the R clutch is great for it. 10/10 drivability and very easy in stop and go and also will hold the power down easy
 

JRSI19

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Not Civic specific but I ran an 8lb flywheel in my RSX for 8 years (stock was 16lbs). The NVH went up but so did the car's eagerness to rev up and down quicker. The RSX was throttle cabled with no clutch delay valve, unlike our 10th gen civics. With the Competition Clutch stage 1.5 clutch and pressure plate setup I loved it and could start on a hill no problem. It just took a little getting used to. My friends who drove my car would always stall because of the flywheel weight and clutch engagement point right off the floor are different than any stock setup on any car lol.

I personally recommend the lighter flywheel and a clutch that's stiffer than stock but not crazy like a 6 puck.
Where u tune and how did u disable the misfire
 

Chris_19Si

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I daily with the Clutch Masters FX350 and aluminum flywheel. If all you intend to do is daily the car and not put it on the track, then find another option, like the retrofit, or anything that feels stock. This clutch is difficult to drive for most people and takes a bit of commitment to keep it. I will say, the aluminum flywheel is worth having, where you change the steel plates for refresh and keep the flywheel with no machining. The refresh kit is about $500, but looks like it may have gone up a little since my last refresh. The engine revs much quicker and response to the throttle pedal is fantastic once you tune the throttle response to your liking. Launching the car is where this clutch shines. It takes the abuse just fine. I love it on the track, and get by on the street. If you drive the car hard, it feels normal. If you baby it, there is chatter in first and reverse. Honestly, I wouldn't go to a retrofit for how I use the car and maintain it, but it all depends on a persons application and parts availability. Clutch Masters have parts on hand usually, so I can get a refresh kit in a couple of days or sooner if I really need it. I'm stretching my current clutch out to failure to know how many miles I can get out of it. I'm pushing 40K miles now and will order a kit this month to have ready. At 30K miles, the clutch looked great! I also have 82A motor mounts, so when I rev up the engine and release the clutch there is no lag in getting off the line. Same is true for getting on power to pass. It is immediate. A bit harsh for passengers, but very at home on a track.
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