Type R race build

[TJHeller]

Got most of the interior out of the car except the center console and airbags. The car is going to a race shop next month for a legal (WRL etc) cage and the more I get out the cheaper it is. Here’s my hang up, has anyone here removed the steering lock? I want to be careful and methodical, and haven’t actually looked yet, but if someone has some know how, I’m all ears.

Sponsored

 

[ipeefreely]

subbed.

Looking to do this to my car too in the future. Any pics of the progress so far?

 

[TJHeller]

No, but I'll get on it this week. I've been in Cabo for the last week. I've done 2 track days so far and this car will be fast. I've figured out that in order to go fast, you're basically going to drift the whole corner. I have a Karcepts bar to install, adjustable toe links for rear, camber arms for rear, and I ordered some adjustable ball joints for the front. I think with the ball joints it'll allow for more adjustment on the front camber plate without frame contact. I'm going to have the back setup at 3 degrees negative camber, 2 degrees toed out, and go from there. The oversteer I think can be negated somewhat with the back rotating on it's own. This is not a street car, so the camber won't be an issue.

 

[TJHeller]

The race shop is almost done with the cage. While they have it apart they’re going to install the ignition kill switch.

 

[JESFromASC]

Crazy thought for the day ---- what about a rear door delete kit?
That is quite a bit of weight all for nothing once a cage goes in.
Like the Deutsch pop-on panels used on NASCAR and off-road vehicles?
Could be painted to look like it still has the right lines etc...
?????????????????????

 

[TJHeller]

The car is home. The cage is nice, welds look good, now time to paint it. I’m going to install as much interior as possible with weight in mind. One of the problems with removing and unplugging things is all the warning lights that pop up on the dash. Airbag lights, steering failure, suspension failure,...everything is a failure. I wish I knew how to bypass all the stuff I don’t need.

 

[IHadToRun]

The car is home. The cage is nice, welds look good, now time to paint it. I’m going to install as much interior as possible with weight in mind. One of the problems with removing and unplugging things is all the warning lights that pop up on the dash. Airbag lights, steering failure, suspension failure,...everything is a failure. I wish I knew how to bypass all the stuff I don’t need.

Love the build! and i believe hondata should let you remove the codes and issues?

 

[JESFromASC]

I got out of a full SCCA race prepared Miata a few years ago. I bought the Type R with eventually doing to it what you are doing now. Watching this thread with great interest.

Aren't you basically creating a TCR class car? And maybe check with them what they run to override the many passenger car electronics? Surely a TCR class Type R running the Pirelli Tire Challenge Cup isn't going around with a CEL light on. ;-)

Also curious if you are keeping a running tab on the project?

I have a nice garage and I so miss SCCA hillclimbing. So sometimes I sit in my garage and look at my Type R and dream. But, I'm just not sure that, well, destroying it is the right thing to do.

 

[AdamD19DFK8]

You put it on a scale yet? Would be interesting to see the before and after though I'm sure the cage negates a lot of the stuff you end up pulling out.

 

[TJHeller]

It weighed 2710 before the cage with all the stuff out of it and half tank. They used the heavy stuff on the beams that are required if the car goes 3001 or more, and the lighter everywhere else. So either way I’m safe. The interior bits are really light considering, and since it’s a low mileage late model car, I’d like to reinstall everything possible within reason so it doesn’t look like a piece of shit racecar that’s cobbed together. The heaviest thing is the damn radio. I had them leave the hvac in it since I’ve raced endurance cars in the rain and without a defrost you can’t see a damn thing. In all the track days I’ve done, I have yet to overheat, and I’ll deal with that bridge when I come to it. Here’s the $67 eBay grill. It looks much better and is devoid of that ridiculously huge H emblem. I’ve also got adjustable lower ball joints for the front, and will knock out the locator pins. The back has adjustable toe bars, camber arms, and a race sway bar. I have not tracked it yet with this stuff on it, but it’s freakin’ fast as hell In stock form with RE71’s and 18’s on it and a willingness to slide it everywhere.

 

[TJHeller]

As far as a running total, the car was 33 used, the cage was $5000, ignition and battery interrupt was $1200, Enkei TS7’s were $900, suspension bits including swift r’s is roughly $2000. I figure when I’m done I’ll have $45,000 in it. It should be competitive. I’ll get the car in the air on a lift later this week and send pics of the rear setup.

 

[JESFromASC]

When you are "done."
Would you do your best to post your solution(s) to the electronics?
What you could keep and what you couldn't?
What still works and what doesn't?
What if anything you have left for displays and interface?
Thanks

 

[TJHeller]

I’ll keep the instrument cluster for sure, and the stock steering wheel...which isn’t bad and not heavy when the airbag is out. I’ll install the hvac controller which is light, but the radio head unit is not going back. It only controls the radio and cameras and doesn’t interface with the controls. Here’s what I did this afternoon...for hours.

 

[nickit]

I’ll keep the instrument cluster for sure, and the stock steering wheel...which isn’t bad and not heavy when the airbag is out. I’ll install the hvac controller which is light, but the radio head unit is not going back. It only controls the radio and cameras and doesn’t interface with the controls. Here’s what I did this afternoon...for hours.

Hey, Old thread but did you find a way to disable all sensors and warning messages in the dash?

 

[Jason@DASHautosports]

As far as a running total, the car was 33 used, the cage was $5000, ignition and battery interrupt was $1200, Enkei TS7’s were $900, suspension bits including swift r’s is roughly $2000. I figure when I’m done I’ll have $45,000 in it. It should be competitive. I’ll get the car in the air on a lift later this week and send pics of the rear setup.

car is looking good, nice cage. What series are you planning to run? I built one in 2018 that has been running SCCA T3 on the east coast, we also have another one I built in 2018 that ran NASA Honda Challenge H1 because the region asked us to run it in that class, then national rules came out for it, we prepped the car to the rules, then they removed it from the rules, lol so now it runs ST3 in sprint races and we just completed our first endurance race with it at VIR, in the AER Series. We ran well despite only 50 minute stints out of the stock fuel tank and had a piston start sticking and had to change pads mid race both days. It survived both 8hr races and narrowly missed the podium on Sunday, finishing 4th cue to ending early in the last hour due to lightning. Now working on endurance brake setup and secondary fuel cell. If you need any help, hit me up...I have some fixes you may need. [email protected]