Tylers 2020 Si motor rebuild

hobby-man

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Got the head back from the shop. Harrison at ATL Powerhouse Performance said that all of the valve guides were good, none of the valves were bent just 3 valve seals in cylinder 1,3,4 all on the left side (exhaust only) were shot. So I replaced them all with Viton valve seals and had the valves lapsed and the head completely cleaned. He said it could have been because of carbon build up or just shitty seals from the factory when they put them in. Idk but Also got the head resurfaced.

I spent a good hour trying to get 1 valve spring in but the tool i had to compress the springs just fought me on getting the keepers in there. So i threw that P.O.S away and bought a new one that hopefully will work for me. Id hate to have to take the head back to Harrison to have him put the springs in ?

BUT!!! The main focus here is all of my new parts i got and the long awaitedW2 Ball Bearing edition ?

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That is the PTP turbo blanket for the oem turbo. It looks like it will fit, fingers crossed.
The motor mounts are the 70 urethane
Awesome!! How did you get the ball bearing W2? Didn't think it was available yet.
 
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Ty3366!!

Ty3366!!

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Awesome!! How did you get the ball bearing W2? Didn't think it was available yet.
Its not and wont be until late August… Vincent gave me one for “final in field beta testing” and honestly prolly just felt bad for me with my situation. Excited to see it in action! Little wierd though the internal wastegate doesnt open all the way compared to stock or oem. Wonder how that will work out ??‍♂?
 
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Ty3366!!

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Updates,

I got the head back from the machine shop! Springs were in so i moved on to putting the car back together.


I did get all of the Hasport mounts in. They were a bitch. I also lost one of the bolts that hold the timing tensioner on so i cant set the motor… on hold.

To have the springs pressed in at the machine shop was $115 if anyone cares.

Honda Civic 10th gen Tylers 2020 Si motor rebuild 8F410C9E-AF01-4BCE-854E-0E163FD67A52


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Honda Civic 10th gen Tylers 2020 Si motor rebuild 40533B5B-8694-4A48-93BE-AFA281DC2BA5


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Got a quick write up on how to remove the intake came shaft?
 
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Ty3366!!

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Got a quick write up on how to remove the intake came shaft?
Loosen the bolts all the way and pull them out. Measure how bar down the bolt you can go into the cap and put it back in to that spot and wiggle it back and forth gently until it starts to come up. Than get a flat head or something to put under the cap and the head to create a pry point and continue to wiggle the bolts in the cap until they come off. Do not pry on them with that flat head though
 
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So as an update i got the motor back together and the tensioner set properly. Ill update my post i made that noone replied to about setting it. After starting the motor the valve train was super loud and had/has me concerned. So i pulled the valve cover off and verified timing by setting the crank at tdc on the timing cover and crank pulley, and the lines on the camshaft lined up. So were still in time. However i noticed that there was no present oil that got circulated through the cams rockers etc. but since i was in there i readjusted all of the valves and the intake ones were loosen prolly bc its a bitch of a setup in there. But i got it all reset up, reinstalled everything and still makes the same noise. Soo I’m thinking maybe the oil pump sucked up a piece of honda bond that got dropped inside of the oil pan and locked it up maybe. Im not exactly sure. Im going to order a oil pressure sandwich plate to verify oil pressure before tearing it back down to get to the oil system.

You can hear it at the end of this video when i walk up the the engine bay and realize shits off.

Anyone with any other ideas?
 

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OsirisPalko

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What makes you say the motor mount kit was a pain? Did you get all three on so far? There's a youtube video that makes it look like cake work, removing the battery & tray, ECU, and coolant tank for a quick swap

Do you think an extra set of hands would make it easier?
 
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Ty3366!!

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What makes you say the motor mount kit was a pain? Did you get all three on so far? There's a youtube video that makes it look like cake work, removing the battery & tray, ECU, and coolant tank for a quick swap

Do you think an extra set of hands would make it easier?
Yes i got them all in. If the motor doesnt move at all and all the bolts line up than yea its fairly easy but mine moved and i had to wiggle it to get the bolt in. An extra set of hands is always ideal
 


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Tldr ; dont blame you but you never know who might find this in the future.

I've also been rebuilding my civic "17" . Not an si but its the 1.5 touring. Thanks for your thread here i've only just begun to get through it all but you are moving right along. The tensioner should be replaced btw just because you are there that is. anyways and its really not that expensive fyi. I also found that the cost on the work you've had done to be very valuable in determining my current direction on a cost side of this thing.

I wanted to do what you have decided to do and thats build the head while it was off, that was until i pulled the head and saw my block. Granted its got 200,000 miles on it now and 80k + of that was tuned as well. It didn't look as bad as most would expect so if you're tuned and worried dont be just take care of the maintenance and enjoy it. If you have issues, look at the fuel system, or gasket.

I expected a mess when i got in there and carbon build up like you'd think. Especially since i used any gas along the way until i had it tuned. I also drive this thing hard, harder than most trust me. To my surprise the valves looked cleanish lol still bad tho and the block looked.., well to me bad but don't take that for anything lol. As far as i known it's probably just fine but needed a gasket jk of course...Not because of carbon, Honda's design i guess flushes that stuff off pretty well i guess but just the overall issue i had i expected worse i suppose.

I still have not had it analyzed by anyone or asked even, im juggling a lot these days, but i did take photos and videos along the way. Wish i knew more and i didn't have time to spare in working out the details. So i made the call on just getting away from the milage thats on the engine as a whole. Didn't cost to much anyhow so will see.

( after this point im just writing my experience thus far)

I still might just buy a new block and head, but for now i ordered a low milage block and head and I should be able to go pick it up this afternoon. From there im still on the fence as in what i should do. I am pulling the two apart and replacing the gasket and the arp studs and iono if it needs to be surfaced still wondering about that lol. I have been back and forth with things like do i put a new timing chain, and guides and so on.

Already have the tensioner, its funny i could only find a tac to remove mine, the new one shows up with a tac in it too and same color haha!! ive gotten this far with no manual so must be doing something right. ?

My turbo has cracks on the exhaust side so i got the w1 and it showed up the other day, thats what i love about most of these companies, they ship things so freakin fast. 27WON has to be, along with summit, the quickest out of em all but to give some credit MAP is several states or more away and they too are if not the same maybe a day more as the other two in my experience. 27won always has those pre orders and find I end up in their queue more than buying in stock items which is also fine lol.

I dont think i need to go and pay to bullet proof this engine, and as much as id like it to be, i get it I'm limited by the cvt. Which i give credit to MAP, 27won, even Vivid out of Arizona.., they all said the same thing! Thats when you know and should listen to the feed back ive learned. It was something along the lines of... If it were me id throw a gasket on it, drop a new turbo in it, get it tuned and go for it... engine is fine at these power levels. I get it and If i was wanting to hit 600+ whp i'd of purchased the si or another platform, however, its not what im aiming for but i also feel and know there is room for more from my current trim level.

As i got into the engine i quickly realized what they were getting at. Besides the obvious differences, the engine is robust, and the si is being better suited for this type of performance game, the other trims have some room to increase the drivability and plus the added " fun factor" to it all that you gain with a tune as opposed to stock. I buy and build a new pc when i need too and before i even get past the bios, im already over clocking the cpu and ram, why? Because thats what it is designed to do and fully capable of doing. I found the life span that the over clocking can take a toll on has never been a factor in me having to build a new one. Its always a new level of performance im after that ends up with me selling the current one to fund the new purchases.

Though my lack of knowledge here with cars is relatively low in regards to tuning, mainly the newer ones, i still wanted the peace of mind of a built engine and it being ready and able to withstand what i might throw at it. In my case i was wanting to feel like no matter what situation, an unsuspected factor i might find myself in like when an si lol, or even a sleeper E300 or whatever it is, pulls up next to you , id like to know that even as the underdog they will underestimate what im sitting in.... lol "Ok, Jr" and watch their mouth drop like "hmm?!?" wtf was that lol

All jokes aside though, all of their logic is sound, and i do value their feed back. Once i gained the idea that this engine was probably better off set aside I made the financial choice to just follow their thinking. So, as im picking it up today unknowingly of its true condition, im left with making the calls on what to do on my way back up as this project comes to its end, and what i need in order to make it a completed job and one done right.

Thats how I found your thread here so valuable and when its a completed job how helpful in all the right ways its been. So thanks for the effort and documentation you've done so far.

I have the gasket, i have the tensioner, water pump, all the intake seals, a new I.C on its way, new throttle body, new thermostat, new sensors both map and maf, few other things i was gonna order today like a fuel rail and sensor ( the sensor is what i wanted as im sure the dam rail is fine). That and upgrading the fuel pump in the tank because i already just put a new high pressure pump in a few days before i blew the gasket up. Injectors were replaced a few months back.

Its why im writing all this out today here, it is and i cant find much information on my situation, the obvious things i have found or know, but things like adding a better low pressure pump in the tank can offer some benefits to the plumbing issues this platform has with fueling mainly with builds aiming for higher hp. The same as what you are faced with in swaping out your injectors as this platform seems to have some issues with them at times.

In chasing my problem down with my old engine for the last year, and i'm now more inclined to saying it was my head lifting off the block under heavy boost which was causing my problems but im only guessing. However had i known this about the studs and using the arp studs to address it my problem might of ended a yr ago. I do know that nows the time to make those replacements for me. The last things on that list to replace prior to engine failure was the rail and tank pump/filter/ and sensor. Outside of that with this other engine im going to pickup, i feel there are things i need too address before closing it all up. Its a matter of what am i not thinking of.

It just so happens i ran across a pump article yesterday about how on the battle for a fix in the fueling issues these companies like 27won and others have faced, and have had issues which have used these (don't know the name atm) low pressure pumps to get away from the stock one to help supply the amount of fuel the system and specs they are demanding from the system end up needing So, just another thing i gotta learn and replace and fix and future proof if possible.

My main concern at this time is getting the engine together and working! The right stuff changed out since im in there , and engine running without that dam issue of hesitation into limp mode and misfires. As it dam near killed me and my daughter recently when choosing to pass a slow car holding up like 30 of us for so long. After that situation and what not i have paid so much money in getting rid of that problem, and one that honda nor my normal mechanic, nor any other mechanic online or mobile mech i could find, could find a working fix. A lot of feed back but nothing that worked.

I didn't take it to a dyno but not for the lack of trying. I tried but because they seem to not want to help me and my "honda civic" lol..regardless of me willing to pay for whatever it takes... i'm literally over here like "tell me whats wrong and i dont care what it is ill fix it, and pay for your time and dyno... and did i say id pay for it too fuck me!" some people are dense. Still, i'd get the " let me call you back.." im still waiting. If only to say ??

But that seems to be beneath them or the ones i reached out to and talked to anyways. Its like you have a shop, a dyno, and an add for it all and its clear you're a tuning shop and you say you're a professional... but you typically don't work on this platform.... ?‍♂ as far as i know civics are easy to work on right ? That should equal easy money..no? Please... ill be sure to honk as i fly by in my charger or beamer if thats what it freakin takes to be in the cool kids club i swear.

I'm talking thousands of dollars spent in chasing that misfire mess. Its got me so heated haha just writing this out. So much effort and so many people asked and effort put forth to fix it and nothing ever ended up being the fix. Well im hoping that ghost is well getting ghosted lol ?‍♂

In the end this community was always very insightful and pleasant to communicate with and never any misleading or bad info. I've learned a great deal from it all and all who took their time to help. Despite the few issues i experienced with local shops and tuners, places like but not limited to MAP, 27WON, VIVID, TSP, ktuner, even prl as busy as they are, all of em! Really they all have been so helpful and never did i get the feeling that these shops made me feel around my parts.., like feeling bad for even liking the civic.

I guess thats the appeal to me and the drive i keep gaining to fight this problem haha. Anyone with a half of brain would of bailed long ago with this car, but I don't give up, If i set my mind to something chances are i wont stop till i get there even of its a lost cause. I am stubborn and i hate losing, if i got to lose then i do it to my best, but I'm determined. It may be the worst and best thing about me but dammit i know what i want and where I'm headed i just gotta get there.

There are a lot of people who are lurkers and long time lurkers. Some who never speak, and others like myself who pop in and out every so often. But then you have me who pops in to write a book just to say thank you to all of the community, as well as to say many thanks to an OP of a thread that i found to be great. One I've spent a lot of time looking for and paying attention to as of lately. This info for those to come will be helpful that you are compiling here so great job!

I'm not sure what your up against in real life but thanks for taking the time you have to document your journey with this engine. It was done well and to your situation i wish you the best. ?

Cheers and im so sorry for writing a book on this great thread of information. back to the shadows i go!!!

Casey.

Honda Civic 10th gen Tylers 2020 Si motor rebuild CC3E5787-EE55-4D85-9719-DD9503882715


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xTWISTEDWAYZx

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Yes i got them all in. If the motor doesnt move at all and all the bolts line up than yea its fairly easy but mine moved and i had to wiggle it to get the bolt in. An extra set of hands is always ideal
What made you want those mounts vs the stock ones. For my knowledge is why i ask. Im also swapping mine out. just a stiffer feel or what ?
 
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Ty3366!!

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Tldr ; dont blame you but you never know who might find this in the future.

Yea i did buy a new tensioner. I have the service manual and i just find whatever im doing and any issues it usually just answers.

Thanks man I appreciate the support. If you have any questions along the way you can dm me on here. Hell anyone can i dont mind.
What made you want those mounts vs the stock ones. For my knowledge is why i ask. Im also swapping mine out. just a stiffer feel or what ?
When i had all the stock mounts I experienced wheel hop once and i wasnt about it so i got the 27won rmm the stronger one. It was very nice, did its job and didnt really experience the wheel hop as much. It was still there in very aggressive situations. So i want the whole racecar setup so i did al the motor mounts and a catless dp. Plus theyre pretty ??‍♂
 

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What made you want those mounts vs the stock ones. For my knowledge is why i ask. Im also swapping mine out. just a stiffer feel or what ?
My oem mounts are worn at 72k, so I wanted something that won't wear out in 72k miles again, and hasport was the only full mount kit with a better offering
 
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Ty3366!!

Ty3366!!

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My oem mounts are worn at 72k, so I wanted something that won't wear out in 72k miles again, and hasport was the only full mount kit with a better offering
I breifly started my car and sat in it for maybe a minute. The NVH is there and it’s real. I like it and I’m super excited to check them out but, they’re not for the faint of heart soo to speak lol
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