Turbo lost

[SRHon]

Hi all,

i am a newbie in tuning. I have recently install KN typhoon to my civic 1.5turbo and observed turbo drops. During an acceleration it reached 75% then drops to between 50 to 25%.

no error message in dashboard

Actions already taken:
1. Reset by removing battery cable
2. Reset of maf sensor
3. Downgraded hondata tune to stock

Attached KN installation. I also have the data-log from hondata if needed.

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[Deleted member 51112]

@gtman can help with the logs if you have them. I'm curious enough to ask, what do you mean by turbo drops? And how are you measuring that? Hondata device?

 

[gtman]

@gtman can help with the logs if you have them. I'm curious enough to ask, what do you mean by turbo drops? And how are you measuring that? Hondata device?

I'm just as perplexed as you. I'm guessing he's saying he's not hitting his targets. No clue otherwise.

 

[SRHon]

@gtman can help with the logs if you have them. I'm curious enough to ask, what do you mean by turbo drops? And how are you measuring that? Hondata device?

Through the turbo widget that is already in the car. Before installing the KN it reached 100 % when the pedal is floored. Now stops at 75% and drops below 50 ( the % is based on how much the widget is filled )

 

[gtman]

Through the turbo widget that is already in the car. Before installing the KN it reached 100 % when the pedal is floored. Now stops at 75% and drops below 50 ( the % is based on how much the widget is filled )

Don't go by a widget. Do a datalog with regular and some aggressive driving and post it here in a .zip file.

 

[SRHon]

I'm just as perplexed as you. I'm guessing he's saying he's not hitting his targets. No clue otherwise.

attached log - drops can be observed around 5 minutes

 

[Deleted member 51112]

Through the turbo widget that is already in the car. Before installing the KN it reached 100 % when the pedal is floored. Now stops at 75% and drops below 50 ( the % is based on how much the widget is filled )

When you say "widget" you prompted me to wonder, are you running an OBD2 plug in device like a Pedal Commander? If so, unplug that thing. Or do you mean the electronic boost gauge on the cars dashboard?

 

[SRHon]

Don't go by a widget. Do a datalog with regular and some aggressive driving and post it here in a .zip file.

Really sorry. I meant the inbuilt widget - see attached.
Bfore installing KN when i was flooring the gas pedal the boost would have been completely red ( 100 % ) and you do feel the acceleration. Now it remains between 25 to 50 % filled and will not go up

 

[gtman]

First of all, the "boost gauge" on the base 1.5T's is nothing but a toy.

In looking at the log, you hit your boost targets but they were low because you were hardly giving it gas.

I see some different issues.

1. Borderline very high coolant temps
2. EXTREMELY BAD short term fuel trims. Most of the drive at the +40 range. That is insanely lean.
3. Unstable knock control. Hitting as high as 93 even though you were mostly just cruising for 20 minutes.

It also appears that the LTFT sensor is not supported by your ECU.

I'm guessing you live in a warm climate. The high knock control may be from using low quality gas. The horrible fuel trim numbers could relate to an improper install of your intake.

 

[SRHon]

First of all, the "boost gauge" on the base 1.5T's is nothing but a toy.

In looking at the log, you hit your boost targets but they were low because you were hardly giving it gas.

I see some different issues.

1. Borderline very high coolant temps
2. EXTREMELY BAD short term fuel trims. Most of the drive at the +40 range. That is insanely lean.
3. Unstable knock control. Hitting as high as 93 even though you were mostly just cruising for 20 minutes.

It also appears that the LTFT sensor is not supported by your ECU.

The high knock control may be from using low quality gas. The horrible fuel trim numbers could relate to an improper install of your intake.

@gtman thank you very much for taking time to look into the logs.
Yes it is correct, that I live in a hot region with poor gas quality (need to add some octane booster). I could not drive more as I had heavy traffic.
however from 5 to 10 minutes, I tried to floor (Switched to S and manual gear as well) it as much as I could and although the boost gauge is just only a toy, I really felt that the car was slower than stock intake.

what do you mean by improper install of the intake ?

 

[charleswrivers]

Recommend removing that intake, and in the course… ensure it was properly connected downstream the MAF sensor and you’re not letting a ton of that’s not getting read by the sensor. Air not ready by sensor = running rich and killing the engine. If the install was good, then there’s something dimensionally different where the MAF sensor is so the airflow for that volume of air is all wonky and the mass of air making it into the engine is more than the ECU is accounting for the amount of fuel it’s giving. Fuel trims off… lack of power… heat… they may well be all connected to that intake and that alone.

The old rule of everything was fine then I changed something… the thing you changed is the reason why 99% of the time.

 

[gtman]

@gtman thank you very much for taking time to look into the logs.
Yes it is correct, that I live in a hot region with poor gas quality (need to add some octane booster). I could not drive more as I had heavy traffic.
however from 5 to 10 minutes, I tried to floor (Switched to S and manual gear as well) it as much as I could and although the boost gauge is just only a toy, I really felt that the car was slower than stock intake.

what do you mean by improper install of the intake ?

SRHon, I can't give a better answer than Charles just gave you.

Also don't use octane boosters as a long term solution. Some of the additives they use can cause problems.

 

[SRHon]

@charleswrivers @gtman - thanks a lot for the feedback and recommendations. appreciate that .

 

[charleswrivers]

Good luck. This is a “do something now” kind of issue. You don’t want to wait around to check the install/straight undo it. The cars software is doing a hell of a job trying to adjust fueling and timing to keep the engine from killing itself. If you have to drive it from point A to point B to get back to wherever you have the tools/old parts… take it gentle.

 

[NukeKS14]

Yes it is correct, that I live in a hot region with poor gas quality (need to add some octane booster).

#1-Avoid octane boosters. They're as gimmicky as that K&N intake. If you have access to E85, mix 1 gallon with your highest available octane fuel when filling your tank from empty. It'll raise the knock index of your fuel by more and cost less than octane 'boosters'.

#2- You probably noticed your issue when installing the K&N intake because it IS the problem. My advice is remove it. install stock intake. replace it with a quality intake that either 1) retains the OEM MAF altogether or 2) if replacing the OEM MAF like you are in this instance, you'll need to rescale it in your tune. If you're not sure what that means or how to do it either just stick with stock MAF or speak with a reputable tuner before you go switching intakes. The MAF is what your computer uses in conjunction with air density (derived from IAT) to determine the VE of your engine which, when compared with engine speed is how it 'knows' what fuel and timing to command. If you're that lean, chances are you are probably experiencing symptoms of your ECU protecting your engine because of the knock it's detecting.

As a general rule, short ram intakes are going to hurt your IATs if you do mostly stop-and-go city driving because they're pulling hot air from your engine bay that's getting saturated. They're fine at highway speeds or when you're in motion but otherwise, not so much. 27WON has a good hybrid if you're un-necessarily worried about sucking water into your engine but I digress. The issue here is the intake combined with your environment and driving conditions.

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