TSP Stage 1 Tune for the 2017+ Civic Si (Cobra Race Support Included!)

generem

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Two Step spells it out clearly on the tune purchase page:

IMG_20200120_141305.jpg
Damn. Why did t I think to check that page..

I appreciate it.. thank you



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EdwarDallas

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Got my TSP 1 Tune and the guide states that it takes advantage of the On the fly Switching Feature. I was hoping to get information on how map 1 and 2 were setup but that option is not on the tune or have been locked out..

Does TSP just follow Ktuners default map 1 or 2?

Ktuner Notes:
Our Ktuner maps take full advantage of their exclusive On the Fly Map Switching feature. Typically we leave map slot 1 as a stock (or near stock) map, map slot 2 with a bit more power, and map slot 3 as our full power custom tune. If you are not familiar with how to utilize this feature, instructions are available here: http://www.ktuner.com/KTunerHelp/on_the_fly_map_switching.htm

I have a 2020 also, but I am not sure they have the whole Stage 1 with 3 maps completed for our model year yet?

I think the TSP Stage 1 tune I was sent has just one regular/sport tune (?)

Edward
 

360glitch

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I have a 2020 also, but I am not sure they have the whole Stage 1 with 3 maps completed for our model year yet?

I think the TSP Stage 1 tune I was sent has just one regular/sport tune (?)

Edward
They have a full version out now. Just email them and they will send you an updated file.
 

likewater

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Just got the TSP Stage 1 file with purchase of a KTuner. My car is completely stock aside from the tune and Holy crap, what a huge difference this makes. Has me smiling every time I mash the throttle. Highly recommend it to anyone considering it.
 

Joev492

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I've tried Googling this- the 2017 Civic Si specs state 205 HP stock, but TSP website says 182. What am I missing here? Is this just actual vs estimated?

Secondly is there a good way to estimate HP from multiple bolt-ons + tune? For example I'm running TSP 1, PRL Race CAI, PRL DP, AWE DP-back exhaust. Is mashing 55 (tune) + 20 (CAI) + 10 (DP) + 6 (Exhaust) to get an estimated 273 - 296 HP good enough?
 

JT Si

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I've tried Googling this- the 2017 Civic Si specs state 205 HP stock, but TSP website says 182. What am I missing here? Is this just actual vs estimated?

Secondly is there a good way to estimate HP from multiple bolt-ons + tune? For example I'm running TSP 1, PRL Race CAI, PRL DP, AWE DP-back exhaust. Is mashing 55 (tune) + 20 (CAI) + 10 (DP) + 6 (Exhaust) to get an estimated 273 - 296 HP good enough?
205 is the factory figure measured via SAE net HP protocol, which is at the crank. Aftermarket/Dyno measurements are typically at the hub or wheel which is almost universally lower due to drivetrain loss (friction in the transmission and differential, energy lost rotating drivetrain parts, etc).

182 was the horsepower TSP measured at the wheels, which is around a 10% loss from the SAE net and in line with expectations for compact FWD, maybe even a little better than expected.

As for that HP estimate, the unfortunate truth is there's no good way to know without performing a Dyno yourself. It seems like you're overestimating the CAI impact significantly, I'd think it's more like 5-10HP at most.

The truth is with the stock turbo and on pump gas (non-flex fuel) you're pretty stuck around mid 250WHP range because it just can't push enough air at higher RPM where you yield a big HP benefit. TSP stage 1 was also designed around 93 octane, so if you only have 91 or 92 available where you live you're seeing a detriment from that as well.

A custom/e-tune might help you squeeze 10-20WHP more based on your specific mods but I don't know if it's worth the money.
 
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Joev492

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205 is the factory figure measured via SAE net HP protocol, which is at the crank. Aftermarket/Dyno measurements are typically at the hub or wheel which is almost universally lower due to drivetrain loss (friction in the transmission and differential, energy lost rotating drivetrain parts, etc).

182 was the horsepower TSP measured at the wheels, which is around a 10% loss from the SAE net and in line with expectations for compact FWD, maybe even a little better than expected.

As for that HP estimate, the unfortunate truth is there's no good way to know without performing a Dyno yourself. It seems like you're overestimating the CAI impact significantly, I'd think it's more like 5-10HP at most.

The truth is with the stock turbo and on pump gas (non-flex fuel) you're pretty stuck around mid 250WHP range because it just can't push enough air at higher RPM where you yield a big HP benefit. TSP stage 1 was also designed around 93 octane, so if you only have 91 or 92 available where you live you're seeing a detriment from that as well.

A custom/e-tune might help you squeeze 10-20WHP more based on your specific mods but I don't know if it's worth the money.
Wow, thanks so much. Your reply is super informative! For my power estimates I was just pulling the numbers from manufacturer websites, but it makes sense they won't all just stack that nicely.
 

JT Si

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Wow, thanks so much. Your reply is super informative! For my power estimates I was just pulling the numbers from manufacturer websites, but it makes sense they won't all just stack that nicely.
A custom or e-tune I think would benefit you more if you had an aftermarket intercooler. Being able to rely on low charge air temperatures means they can advance your ignition more than an off the shelf tune which will be the main way they squeeze out the extra horsepower.

A canned tune like TSP stage 1 still leaves some grunt on the shelf because they intended for it to be safe for any random Civic but also they designed it for the engine in an OEM setup, susceptible to intercooler heatsoak and all.

This is why the 27Won drop in turbo is so popular, it basically unlocks the ability to carry mid 20's boost to redline.
 

Joev492

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A custom or e-tune I think would benefit you more if you had an aftermarket intercooler. Being able to rely on low charge air temperatures means they can advance your ignition more than an off the shelf tune which will be the main way they squeeze out the extra horsepower.

A canned tune like TSP stage 1 still leaves some grunt on the shelf because they intended for it to be safe for any random Civic but also they designed it for the engine in an OEM setup, susceptible to intercooler heatsoak and all.

This is why the 27Won drop in turbo is so popular, it basically unlocks the ability to carry mid 20's boost to redline.
I've been considering the drop-in as my next power upgrade. The only reason I'm not quite jumping on that is because then it's in my best interest to switch out the rods, and the clutch which turns a $1500 install into a $4000 one...

For now I'm putting in a Mishimoto catch can, and the Eibach Sportline kit. not the most exciting, but I think I'll save pushing the car to it's limits for when I'm in the market for a new vehicle in a decade lol
 

JT Si

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I've been considering the drop-in as my next power upgrade. The only reason I'm not quite jumping on that is because then it's in my best interest to switch out the rods, and the clutch which turns a $1500 install into a $4000 one...

For now I'm putting in a Mishimoto catch can, and the Eibach Sportline kit. not the most exciting, but I think I'll save pushing the car to it's limits for when I'm in the market for a new vehicle in a decade lol
You are very lucky with TSP stage 1 and a downpipe to not have any clutch slip yet. I didn't have a down pipe and mine slipped the first day I flashed TSP stage 1 (it was the first flash of any tune I had done). I'd be counting my days if I were you, you'll start slipping sometime.
 

Joev492

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You are very lucky with TSP stage 1 and a downpipe to not have any clutch slip yet. I didn't have a down pipe and mine slipped the first day I flashed TSP stage 1 (it was the first flash of any tune I had done). I'd be counting my days if I were you, you'll start slipping sometime.
I've been worried about that. Most of the time I leave it in base map 1. I've only really pushed it in 3 a few times after I had already been driving around and warmed up for a while. From what I've read on the tuning survey here, the clutch slip starts when you're in map 3 full time. I've already got the cash put away for an ACT stage 2 and labor costs, but the longer I can hold out the better.
 

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I've been worried about that. Most of the time I leave it in base map 1. I've only really pushed it in 3 a few times after I had already been driving around and warmed up for a while. From what I've read on the tuning survey here, the clutch slip starts when you're in map 3 full time. I've already got the cash put away for an ACT stage 2 and labor costs, but the longer I can hold out the better.
Cross your fingers. No DP here, but July 31st will be 2 years for me dailying map 3 (it’s my map 1... so the cars starts on it my default). Clutch has been fine.
 

KBromme10thgen

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Cross your fingers. No DP here, but July 31st will be 2 years for me dailying map 3 (it’s my map 1... so the cars starts on it my default). Clutch has been fine.
I feel better. Thank you. If mine begins to slip for whatever reason I'll definitely post the situation here.
 

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Cross your fingers. No DP here, but July 31st will be 2 years for me dailying map 3 (it’s my map 1... so the cars starts on it my default). Clutch has been fine.
Are you typically in normal or sport mode? I've been running map 3 normal mode since I flashed it a few days ago and have been thoroughly impressed. I did try sport mode but damn near felt like I was abusing the car with the crazy amount of boost. I'm pretty confident these stout little engines can take it though based on yours as well as numerous other reviews.
 











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