Transmission is slipping. Help.

Nexus90

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I forgot to add and ask does anyone know of any cvt civic x members that bought into the transmission coolant pack by prl? I wonder if that addition makes a difference.
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OceansX

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Crap...after reading this thread i'd say I might be in some trouble down the road with what I have on my CVT. Should I get rid of it now or later.....
 

Nexus90

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Crap...after reading this thread i'd say I might be in some trouble down the road with what I have on my CVT. Should I get rid of it now or later.....
Use your own discretion, and I say that humbly. I honestly will try my best to avoid reflashing but it's tough keeping it honest with you. Knowing what the car can do and can be its agitating not being able to use it's full potential. However in my case I'm 1 transmission in and a new valve body.(yeah I should prob edit my previous message) so i still have the same trans as January just a new valve body. Completely honest I have no idea and need to do research to fully understand its job and function. The reality I dont think even 5% of the civic x community drives what I drive daily in city and highway traffic. So i did speak with the rep again and he says what the factory got from my trans when they said i drive aggressive is that i spend a lot of time in high rev ranges and I explained to him I engine break a shit ton, but even then I dont see how that could have caused the amount of damage it did in the amount of time it did. Now my only concern currently is when i put the car into drive it take almost 1.5 or 2 seconds for the action to actually occur and the car jumps a bit. I'm nervous I'm on the path of more trans issues and this time I really may not be the cause and Honda says they wont warranty me a 3rd time. In my head I'm like bitch I paid for this bullshit so I'll find a way. None the less I really ran with this my bad. Enjoy your ride be safe be smart. My 1st tune last me a year and half. And I admit i caused the damage that happened in December. This one last me 2 months. It's all up to you fam. Much love everyone.
 

Hollywoo0220

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You must understand that the OP drove his for work at the rate of approx 300mi a day. The culprit wasn’t the Base Tunes or DP, etc...the problem was overheating the CVT for extended periods. A DP on a stock turbo isn’t going to generate enough torque down low as compared to the stock set-up - so, it wasn’t torque and he didnt “score” his belt; rather it was the valve body that was absorbing the higher temps.
Before anyone flashed their CVT model, you thought you had “lag”; well, it isn’t turbo lag, it is the TCU reading RPM & Speed to simulate the right gear.
Just don’t drive like you are in a fully built race car with your CVT, because it wasn’t designed to withstand long periods of on and off response.

Also, the CVT can in fact hold higher torque load than 200lb/ft - you simply want the torque to come on higher in the RPM. That really requires a bit larger/more efficient turbo and not tuning to the Max (of course).
 

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Have had my car for 3 years now, ran the hondata base map for the about near the end of the first year then later got a custom tune (i dont hit peak psi till after 3000rpm, which is 26psi)which i am still on. got a handfull of upgrades (PRL CAI, PRL DP/FP, PRL FMIC, Mishi Catch Can, PRL Trans Cooler, Hondata custom tune ,27WON RMM) car is tracked regulerly, about 1-2 times every other month since i got my car and just hit 28K. Im not saying that you should us me as a measuring stick, but its just your milage may vary.
 


Nexus90

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Have had my car for 3 years now, ran the hondata base map for the about near the end of the first year then later got a custom tune (i dont hit peak psi till after 3000rpm, which is 26psi)which i am still on. got a handfull of upgrades (PRL CAI, PRL DP/FP, PRL FMIC, Mishi Catch Can, PRL Trans Cooler, Hondata custom tune ,27WON RMM) car is tracked regulerly, about 1-2 times every other month since i got my car and just hit 28K. Im not saying that you should us me as a measuring stick, but its just your milage may vary.
Neo, it appears you drive less than me and the OP overall but that's fine I'm more intrested in the CVT cooler it sounds like it makes a big difference. Currently I'm not driving past 2K rpm. Someone had recommended I bring my cars ride height back to stock. Their theory was that as my cvt starts to heat up, it doesnt have a much clearance to let that heat/energy disperse in turn that heat is staying trapped under the car. It sounds like sound advice. Also what holloywoo0220 mentioned makes a lot of sense. I'm going to look into adding the cvt cooler tho for sure. And I'm trying my best not to give into my impulse but if I do give in im just gonna get a custom tune where the peak torque is at higher ranges. I realized even at stock technically the cars running 162ft/lbs of tq from the ranges of 1500 all the way up to 5500. When you do the base tune for plus 6 this changes to 184ft/lbs or 250nm for us hondata users. I've been thinking does it make sense to add the flash but lower the torque if you dont lower the turbos peak psi? especially in the 1-3 range and then raise it or keep it as is in the 4 to 5k range? Hondata does allow for tweaking of the torque level for the car in regular mode and even with the eco button on and then of course there is hondata mode which my understanding turns the tune off. Am I correct with the last 2 statements?
 
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OceansX

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Neo, it appears you drive less than me and the OP overall but that's fine I'm more intrested in the CVT cooler it sounds like it makes a big difference. Currently I'm not driving past 2K rpm. Someone had recommended I bring my cars ride height back to stock. Their theory was that as my cvt starts to heat up, it doesnt have a much clearance to let that heat/energy disperse in turn that heat is staying trapped under the car. It sounds like sound advice. Also what holloywoo0220 mentioned makes a lot of sense. I'm going to look into adding the cvt cooler tho for sure. And I'm trying my best not to give into my impulse but if I do give in im just gonna get a custom tune where the peak torque is at higher ranges. I realized even at stock technically the cars running 162ft/lbs of tq from the ranges of 1500 all the way up to 5500. When you do the base tune for plus 6 this changes to 184ft/lbs or 250nm for us hondata users. I've been thinking does it make sense to add the flash but lower the torque if you dont lower the turbos peak psi? especially in the 1-3 range and then raise it or keep it as is in the 4 to 5k range? Hondata does allow for tweaking of the torque level for the car in regular mode and even with the eco button on and then of course there is hondata mode which my understanding turns the tune off. Am I correct with the last 2 statements?
Which CVT cooler are you looking at? I might be in the same boat as you, cuz I drive 100km a day to & from work. Hoping this will help me in the long-run and prevent me from having the issues you are experiencing. If so, this is definitely going to put be another step further away from getting an new Intercooler :(
 

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I've been running my cvt on the hondata +6psi high octane tune for about 90 000 km now and never had an issue with my trans. I've been through an engine but not a trans. It was my own fault customizing the tune, stop worrying. 300km trips on the highway routinely, not daily but often enough.
 

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Which CVT cooler are you looking at? I might be in the same boat as you, cuz I drive 100km a day to & from work. Hoping this will help me in the long-run and prevent me from having the issues you are experiencing. If so, this is definitely going to put be another step further away from getting an new Intercooler :(
I'm looking into the prl one.
 

Nexus90

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I've been running my cvt on the hondata +6psi high octane tune for about 90 000 km now and never had an issue with my trans. I've been through an engine but not a trans. It was my own fault customizing the tune, stop worrying. 300km trips on the highway routinely, not daily but often enough.
Is yours cvt or manual? The manuals hold up fine. Either way like it's been stated on multiple threads milage varies with all these things. 300 km on a highway is nothing your right but 300km in my city traffic is a big difference. Idk where you're from but I'm certain it's not a NY only thing. When people sell high milage cars here they specify that the miles are mainly highway and whether it's true or not it always calms the buyer to know that. So even superficially where your putting your milage counts for something. Either way no matter how its spun at the end of the day what anyone does to their ride, and how they ride is completely there prerogative. As of now I'm still fighting the impulse to reflash. I cant afford a trans out of pocket specially with Honda putting a note in my cars dealership file will no long cover transmission in the warranty. Which I think is fucked up cause that trans could go for anything out side of my control and I'm fucked. Anyways much love fam. Loving this thread.
 


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Is yours cvt or manual? The manuals hold up fine. Either way like it's been stated on multiple threads milage varies with all these things. 300 km on a highway is nothing your right but 300km in my city traffic is a big difference. Idk where you're from but I'm certain it's not a NY only thing. When people sell high milage cars here they specify that the miles are mainly highway and whether it's true or not it always calms the buyer to know that. So even superficially where your putting your milage counts for something. Either way no matter how its spun at the end of the day what anyone does to their ride, and how they ride is completely there prerogative. As of now I'm still fighting the impulse to reflash. I cant afford a trans out of pocket specially with Honda putting a note in my cars dealership file will no long cover transmission in the warranty. Which I think is fucked up cause that trans could go for anything out side of my control and I'm fucked. Anyways much love fam. Loving this thread.
Cvt. I meant don't worry about running the +6 tune and blowing up your engine like I did, not inferring that you're worried for no reason, I would not enjoy my trans having the symptoms you describe. I meant more along the lines of the trans not being as weak as people think. Also I got the new engine and it installed for a total of 2900 Canadian all in, the trans miiiiight not be as bad as you think to replace, if you can find a decent low mileage junkyard unit.
 

Nexus90

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Cvt manual? Um wyf?wtf
You're missing the or I asked him a question. But none the less i took a re-read at his post and realized that he mentioned he is on the cvt. No need to get snappy lol like wtf I thought you wrote something meaningful.
 

Nexus90

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Cvt. I meant don't worry about running the +6 tune and blowing up your engine like I did, not inferring that you're worried for no reason, I would not enjoy my trans having the symptoms you describe. I meant more along the lines of the trans not being as weak as people think. Also I got the new engine and it installed for a total of 2900 Canadian all in, the trans miiiiight not be as bad as you think to replace, if you can find a decent low mileage junkyard unit.
I get what you're saying bro and my bad for miss reading your post. I think I'm just gonna wait to get the cvt cooler kit installed than get the flash back on but take it to a pro tuner and get the car set up a way I'd feel good driving it in. Should the trans still go I could do the junkyard idea. Lots of people crashing civics here in NY lol
 

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A year after this post and i have the same problem, its in the shop now, plan is to get it fixed hopefully under warranty if they dont find flash trace, and trade it in for a manual
 

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A year after this post and i have the same problem, its in the shop now, plan is to get it fixed hopefully under warranty if they dont find flash trace, and trade it in for a manual
It should cover it. If not, check if your insurance has mechanical breakdown coverage. Geico offer 7 years or 100k miles.
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