Track wheel or wheel/tire guide

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Dave B

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I know someone that has cracked both and Enkei wheel and a Titan 7 recently under normal track use. I’ve never seen that with a Volk or Advan forged wheel.
That is pretty sad to her re the Titan 7s. Enkeis are pretty cheap but the Titans, not so much. Does "normal" track use include bouncing off a bunch of curbs?
 

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That is pretty sad to her re the Titan 7s. Enkeis are pretty cheap but the Titans, not so much. Does "normal" track use include bouncing off a bunch of curbs?
That’s pretty standard for competitive track events. Using all of the track and everything. You still have to remember that Titan 7’s are Chinese made. I highly doubt that their forging and QC is up to the levels of the more premium forged wheels.
 

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That’s pretty standard for competitive track events. Using all of the track and everything. You still have to remember that Titan 7’s are Chinese made. I highly doubt that their forging and QC is up to the levels of the more premium forged wheels.
They’re not TUV approved or anything, which is why they’re a lot cheaper than big name wheels.

There’s very little oversight when it comes to aftermarket wheels. Anyone can start their own wheel company if you know how to use Alibaba. The only thing you have to do is market your brand. That’s why I trust the big name companies because they can’t risk their reputation by producing low quality wheels.
 

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I thought Titan7 had a warranty to replace any wheels that were damaged during track use. That was their statement when they came out a few years back from what I remember.

Titan7 Warranty Info
 


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That may be fine with just a crack but a total failure could be a disaster. Are Enkei wheels still made in Japan?
 

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They’re not TUV approved or anything, which is why they’re a lot cheaper than big name wheels.

There’s very little oversight when it comes to aftermarket wheels. Anyone can start their own wheel company if you know how to use Alibaba. The only thing you have to do is market your brand. That’s why I trust the big name companies because they can’t risk their reputation by producing low quality wheels.
Which goes for just about every aftermarket part out there.

There was an aftermarket wheel company that was lying about JWL certs not long ago.


I thought Titan7 had a warranty to replace any wheels that were damaged during track use. That was their statement when they came out a few years back from what I remember.

Titan7 Warranty Info
It's a "limited lifetime" warranty. I'd bet that if you approach them with a cracked wheel from the track you're going to get the "wear part" argument. Typically forged wheels will bend before cracking. Highly suspect.

That may be fine with just a crack but a total failure could be a disaster. Are Enkei wheels still made in Japan?
As far as I know they are all made in Japan still.
 

ayau

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That may be fine with just a crack but a total failure could be a disaster. Are Enkei wheels still made in Japan?
They're made in Thailand and probably other parts of the world.

Their "Racing" line seems to be made in Japan still. Just depends on which Enkei wheel you're referring to. You can find the manufacturing origin on TireRack.com. This isn't an indication that their Japanese made wheels are better.
 

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ayau

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Wow I hadn’t read that one. I was referring to another really cheap cast wheel company that was claiming JWL and got caught in that lie.
Anyone can stamp "JWL" on their wheel and you won't get in trouble the last time I checked. It's a self certification. Whether or not you actually meet and/or exceed JWL standards is another story.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JWL_standard

However, stamping TUV isn't allowed unless you were approved by TUV to do so. You need to be independently validated to receive the right to stamp the TUV logo on your wheels. This obviously costs money for the wheel company.
 

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Anyone can stamp "JWL" on their wheel and you won't get in trouble the last time I checked. It's a self certification. Whether or not you actually meet and/or exceed JWL standards is another story.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JWL_standard

However, stamping TUV isn't allowed unless you were approved by TUV to do so. You need to be independently validated to receive the right to stamp the TUV logo on your wheels. This obviously costs money for the wheel company.
I know how it works. Just simply talking about the shady things that these companies do. I’ve been in the aftermarket track wheel game a long time.
 

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Thanks for all this info folks. I am hoping to get some more opinions/advice on this. But a little different.

So I just started HPDEs, I plan on doing them once a month, about 8 times per year. Currently I'm running OEM and am comfortable doing that for daily (which is only probably 6k miles/year). But I am considering buying a second set of wheels and tires.

The question is, should I buy the second set for the track or the the daily?

More about my ideas at this point, want a steady/consistent tire for HPDE, not a time attack tire. Predicable and 'good' wear, good price for performance. Concerned about scrub radius and such, don't plan on lowering or changing the car for looks. Track wheels can look like anything, as long as they perform. Daily wheels should look as good as oem or better.
 
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If you are happy with your 20" wheels for a daily driver, I would stick with them. You will definitely appreciate the advantages of an 18" wheel/tire combo for track use. You can change them pretty easily at the track but be aware that most if not all aftermarket 18" wheels will need different conical shaped lug nuts as opposed to the ball type that Honda uses OEM. IMO you will also want metal wheel centering rings. (They are pretty cheap).

I would suggest getting the highest offset rims that you like but there is no need to go to custom made 60mm offset like the OEM rims.

As for tires, agree completely that the hottest/fastest for a few laps tire will not be in your best interest. Hankook RS4s are a good choice but are clearly not as fast as the hot Yokohamas or Bridgestones. Be careful looking at Michelin Sport Cup 2s as the OEM ones are much more like the Sport Cup2 Rs than the aftermarket ones. They will be faster but not last as long. Personally I would like to try Nitto NT01s in the 275/35 size as I have had great experience with these in the past on different cars. Not wickedly fast but easy to drive, long lasting and very consistent. They are clearly not great for the street but you will be putting them on and taking them off at the track so who cares? Wish I knew if anyone else has used them. Fortunately you can also get the Toyo RA-1 in a 275/35-18 size which will not be as fast as the Nitto due to its higher void tread pattern but you will be fine in the rain and it is ok to drive to the track. Very old tech and not responsive at full tread depth but again very consistent and in the past at least has been resistant to heat cycling. BTW, personally I cannot recommend the Toyo R888 or R888R. Both are faster for a very short time then fall off very quickly.
 

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Personally I would like to try Nitto NT01s in the 275/35 size as I have had great experience with these in the past on different cars.
Thanks :)
I've heard good thing about the Nitto's. Also appreciate the idea of going 18's for the track. Will start planning on that.
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