Track wheel or wheel/tire guide

[Dave B]

The FK8 wheel fitment sticky has over 2700 replies and can make it difficult to find info for those of us interested in tracking our cars.

The stock 20" rim is somewhere between 28 and 30lb and I would think the vast majority of folks taking their cars to the track even moderately seriously will have 18" or possibly 19" rims.

I also think that most of us who track our cars
a) don't care much about looks
b) care very much about weight
c) care very much about strength
d) care somewhat about cost and
e) will track with 200 treadwear or less tires.

Personally I have experience with a variety of 200 and 100 treadwear tires on other cars but would really like some advice re best wheels for track purposes, not street. Finding the best track tire is a constantly changing field and is somewhat up to personal preferences i.e. all out speed vs consistency vs resistance to heat cycling and durability etc.

It would be great if you can mention the size of wheel, offset, weight and cost. Knowing what tire(s) you are using is also helpful.

Would definitely like to know if any of you have experienced a wheel failure.

Who knows, it this thread gets enough response, it might become a sticky. I know the majority of CTR owners don't track their cars but there seem to be enough on these forums that do, so time to pick some brains and learn from other's experiences.

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[ayau]

I think most people will agree that track wheels are consumables just like brake pads. At some point, they will fail. So they need to be affordable and available.

This is why I suggest something from Enkei as they're one of the most affordable and can easily sourced when you break them. Even if you don't mind bending a $800 Volk wheel, you end up waiting for a replacement.

Basically show wheels are very different than true track wheels.

 

[ipeefreely]

Most of our group in Cali here run the same wheel and tire set up.

It consists of:

1. Wheels - 18x9.5 +45 or +38
2. Tires - A052 or Nankang AR1s - 265/35/18


Brand wise. I'd stick with Volks but you can't go wrong with Titan 7's, Wedsports, or Advans. Good luck.

 

[Dave B]

Most of our group in Cali here run the same wheel and tire set up.

It consists of:

1. Wheels - 18x9.5 +45 or +38
2. Tires - A052 or Nankang AR1s - 265/35/18


Brand wise. I'd stick with Volks but you can't go wrong with Titan 7's, Wedsports, or Advans. Good luck.

Can you be a bit more specific re which models of wheels from these manufacturers and cost?

I have heard that the Enkei Kojin is very light and pretty cheap relatively (although it wouldn't win any best looking contest) but as I said at the start, who cares?

 

[ayau]

For what it’s worth, there are also JWL and VIA wheel certifications, which many of the smaller wheel companies don’t have even though they’re marketed as “forged”.

For example, Titan7 aren’t approved for either certifications last time I checked. JWL is a self stamping cert, so that holds a lesser value than VIA.

Enkei created their own Spec-E test, which is supposed to be more rigorous than JWL.

 

[ipeefreely]

Can you be a bit more specific re which models of wheels from these manufacturers and cost?

I have heard that the Enkei Kojin is very light and pretty cheap relatively (although it wouldn't win any best looking contest) but as I said at the start, who cares?

Of course. But mind you, everyone's budget is going to be different but these are my suggestions:

More budget friendly:

Wedsport Tc105
Titan 7 - any wheel

Less budget friendly:

Advan GT's
Volk - TE37
Volk - ZE40
Volk - CE28

Most of these wheels are pretty common (easily to find replacements). You can also try to see if you can buy a lightly used set if you want to save some money.

 

[ems657]

I second Ayau's comment - I have a set of Enkei RPF1 (18X8.5). Those only weigh maybe 17-18lbs each, and you can definitely feel the difference a the steering wheel. My tires are Bridgestone RE71R (245/40/18). All together it's just under $2K.

To me, this set up is a great bang for the buck, no to mention you can buy used Enkei wheels on this forum. Good luck!

By the way, my daily drive is another 18 inch Enkei RPF1 wrapped in Michelin A/S 3+.

 

[Lust]

I second Ayau's comment - I have a set of Enkei RPF1 (18X8.5). Those only weigh maybe 17-18lbs each, and you can definitely feel the difference a the steering wheel. My tires are Bridgestone RE71R (245/40/18). All together it's just under $2K.

To me, this set up is a great bang for the buck, no to mention you can buy used Enkei wheels on this forum. Good luck!

By the way, my daily drive is another 18 inch Enkei RPF1 wrapped in Michelin A/S 3+.

The RPF1s are quite fragile. I've seen several wheels literally explode from pot holes. Getting a true forged wheel for track work is highly recommended. I'd rather bend a wheel than have it shatter and cause a serious accident.

Budget track wheel options
Weds TC105x - not fully forged but close to full forged strength
Titan 7 - any
Enkei - RPF1 or GTC02

High end track wheels
Volk - TE37 (x), ZE40, CE28, RE30, G025
BBS - anything from their forged line up
Advan - GT
TWS - T66F

 

[ayau]

The RPF1s are quite fragile. I've seen several wheels literally explode from pot holes. Getting a true forged wheel for track work is highly recommended. I'd rather bend a wheel than have it shatter and cause a serious accident.

Budget track wheel options
Weds TC105x - not fully forged but close to full forged strength
Titan 7 - any
Enkei - RPF1 or GTC02

High end track wheels
Volk - TE37 (x), ZE40, CE28, RE30, G025
BBS - anything from their forged line up
Advan - GT
TWS - T66F

I think it's hard to say for sure. That RPF1 might have seen 50 potholes throughout the course of its life. It probably already had micro fractures and wasn't inspected. You can also buy 2-4 cast wheels for the price of 1 forged.

Ideally, you want dedicated track wheels and dedicated street wheels. That way you're not putting your track wheels under street conditions and the risk of them explode on track. You want to inspect them perodically for micro fractures, regardless if they're forged or not.

But yeah, if I had an unlimited budget, I'd buy 2-3 sets of forged wheels.

 

[roflitzjinno]

I also think that most of us who track our cars
a) don't care much about looks
b) care very much about weight
c) care very much about strength
d) care somewhat about cost and
e) will track with 200 treadwear or less tires.

These items are very subjective person to person.

A. Do I care about looks? Yes. I will not and refuse to run something that looks ugly to me. I'd rather run the car stock until I have what I deem appropriate for my personal tastes. I will NEVER run RPF1's in a convex face. Ugly to me. Will run TE37's personally as that's my preference and to match my S2000. IDC the cost.

B. Preference, lighter the better for unsprung weight.

C. Preference again, but something that has strength so it can take what we throw at it on track is a good basis to start. But not everyone has an unlimited budget.

D. I care about cost, but I value form and function foremost. I'd rather spend knowing I get what I know I like and proven versus saving money.

E. Agreed for those that are competitive and want the most of their track time. Is a 300TW possible to track on? Yes. Is it competitive? No.

The RPF1s are quite fragile. I've seen several wheels literally explode from pot holes. Getting a true forged wheel for track work is highly recommended. I'd rather bend a wheel than have it shatter and cause a serious accident.

I think it's hard to say for sure. That RPF1 might have seen 50 potholes throughout the course of its life. It probably already had micro fractures and wasn't inspected. You can also buy 2-4 cast wheels for the price of 1 forged.

Ideally, you want dedicated track wheels and dedicated street wheels. That way you're not putting your track wheels under street conditions and the risk of them explode on track. You want to inspect them perodically for micro fractures, regardless if they're forged or not.

I'd have to agree that RPF1's are pretty strong. I only destroyed my set after hitting a wall at 50MPH. Other than that, handled abuse and Chicago pot holes, 20+ days in a season, jump curbs and all sorts of track abuse. No stress cracks, no issues, balanced fine with new tires all the time. All perspective and experience.

I think good to add to this is the range of pricing. Added some wheels to the budget section. Again all based on preference and budget right? Rotas can be had for the same look as Regamaster's for $1500 less. Would I do it? For the sake of my wallet, yes. For the sake of me being me, no. Obviously these high end wheels can be found used in pricing in between budget and high end.

Budget track wheel options - ~$1500 to $2200
Weds TC105x - not fully forged but close to full forged strength
Weds RN-05M
Titan 7 - any
Enkei - RPF1 or GTC02
Rays Gramlights 57DR
Advan TC4
SSR GTX01 - only come in 19's

High end track wheels - ~$3000+
Volk - TE37 (x), ZE40, CE28, RE30, G025
BBS - anything from their forged line up
Advan - GT
TWS - T66F

Most common sizing for wheels seems to be 18X9.5 offset between +38 to +45, some run a 18X10 offset roughly around the +40 range +/-

As far as tires are concerned as not many have touched on this. Depends on the purpose of your tracking experience. Are you trying to get lapping/seat time versus doing time attack?

Lapping/Seat Time - leads to consistent times and less fall off when it comes to grip, more budget friendly, versus fastest time overall, most common options I've seen are
Hankook RS4
Falken Azenis RT615K+
BFGoodrich Rival S
Michelin PS4S (300TW, but good grip)

Time attack/comp purposes - highest level of grip, maybe 2-4 hot laps for max grip before starts falling off, some are budget friendly some are not
Bridgestone RE71R
Advan A052
Nankang AR1s

Most common sizing I've seen everyone run is 265/35/18 +/- side wall depending on tire.

Personally will be running TE37's 18X9.5 +38 (if I can 18X10+41 i'd run that) with Falken Azenis RT615K+ in 255/35/18 because I prefer some stretch and want a baseline of something I've ran before on previous FWD and RWD cars. Will jump to 265's if I feel more grip is needed and probably jump into RE71R/A052 territory when I want to start doing time attack again.

 

[ayau]

Anyone have experience with the new Falken RT660?

Are they more of a lapping tire or one lap wonder?

 

[Dave B]

Great responses already guys.

Would be interested in some wheel weights if available and I would assume most of you are using 18 x 9.5s and most are using 265/35 tires.

I didn't think the RPF1 came in an 18 x 9.5. The Kojin does in a 120 mm bolt pattern and 45mm offset

I know tire choice is very dependent on your use. If you only need a couple of laps for a time-attack competition, then A052s seem to be todays best but followed closely by the RE71R. That may change by next year.

Has anyone uses the old tech Nitto NT01 in the 275/35 size? Generally Nittos are smaller than they say they are but that is a tire that is very resistant to heat cycling and is easy to drive fast. Definitely not going to win over a couple of laps only though. Also definitely not very streetable but a good all round track tire.

BTW, forgot to ask if the wheels you folks have bought come with centering rings to fit the skinny 64 mm center bore.

 

[ipeefreely]

Great responses already guys.

Would be interested in some wheel weights if available and I would assume most of you are using 18 x 9.5s and most are using 265/35 tires.

I didn't think the RPF1 came in an 18 x 9.5. The Kojin does in a 120 mm bolt pattern and 45mm offset

I know tire choice is very dependent on your use. If you only need a couple of laps for a time-attack competition, then A052s seem to be todays best but followed closely by the RE71R. That may change by next year.

Has anyone uses the old tech Nitto NT01 in the 275/35 size? Generally Nittos are smaller than they say they are but that is a tire that is very resistant to heat cycling and is easy to drive fast. Definitely not going to win over a couple of laps only though. Also definitely not very streetable but a good all round track tire.

BTW, forgot to ask if the wheels you folks have bought come with centering rings to fit the skinny 64 mm center bore.

My track buddy runs the Nt01's and RE71R's on his s2k. RE71R's, I think have a better initial performance but they fall off. The NT01's have less grip to start with but over all, it seems like it's a more consistent tire.

A052's and Nankang AR1s are just on a different league.

If you still want more grip, then you can go to a slick but now we're just talking pure race car.

 

[Dave B]

Yes, Hoosier R7s or similar are quite spectacular but can also ruin wheel bearings in short order. Ask me how I know !

 

[ipeefreely]

Yes, Hoosier R7s or similar are quite spectacular but can also ruin wheel bearings in short order. Ask me how I know !

haha. I haven't ran Hoosiers yet but I've heard a ton of stories. Trying to stay away from those things.

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