Tpms calibration ?

Rickmeister 48

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I'm just curious what this is for. Apparently,our sensors only go off if one tire has a major change .
So what is being calibrated?
Calibrated to me is honing in on accuracy, and this system is anything but.
Not to mention, it doesn't even tell you when it's calibrated,it just says you have to drive for a half hour after doing that.
Just curious.



 

Daniel644

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"Calibrating" is meant to tell the car "I made a change, this is the new normal".
 

Vrait

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Just to jump in, when getting new tires are TPMS sensors required since we don't have a real TPMS system?
Or will the system still work fine without them?
 

Blue18SI

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When I did the training on this passive tpms system it just says anytime the tires are rotated, replaced or pressure is adjusted it’s a good idea to calibrate or you may get false tpms lights. Worked at Honda for 5 years and the amount of people we had to reset tpms lights for was unreal.
 

fenix-silver

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Just to jump in, when getting new tires are TPMS sensors required since we don't have a real TPMS system?
Or will the system still work fine without them?
There are no sensors in the wheels that need to be dealt with. The system uses the ABS sensors to determine if one wheel is rotating slightly faster than the others, and thus lower on air.
 

Vrait

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There are no sensors in the wheels that need to be dealt with. The system uses the ABS sensors to determine if one wheel is rotating slightly faster than the others, and thus lower on air.
so just to redundantly verify. When I order new tires, don't check the checkbox to add sensors?
 

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The system will also alarm "low pressure" if the tires are overpressure from heat, happened to me last summer, only one warning message for any apparently preset RPM range variations determined by what pressure they were calibrated at, a long highway run that builds up heat combined with high ambient/road surface temperatures will trip the alarm as well. When mine alarmed last summer, measured pressure (hot) was 38 psi, tires were calibrated cold at 34 psi, long drive at 65-70, temps near 98f. It ain't the world's best system, one of the Honda SUV's (Pilot?) has actual psi readouts for all 4 tires so they can do it right.
 

RepyT

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I had mine go off five days straight and set Contis to the sill 35F 33R each AM while cold (it did go from 70s to 40s so everyone not using nitrogen issan and Toyota often do) was lined up at air pumps.

I used 2 diff digital gauges starting 2nd day and no events other than so good jarring potties due to construction. I and dealer inspected all tires, wheels, AOK no nicks but some 1-1.5 lbs high, other almost lb low. Was off today so maybe sun facing side? No, opposite corners.

Remember that wheel size changes still need speedo fixes but TPMS doesn’t as it memorizes speed for each wheel at cal, then stores it (and previous readings for less factoring over history of Cal’s)

Tech said even after decal it retains previous with less weighted comparisons to old ones but if they were way off, could possibly fork up the snapshotted speed comparison from calib. They cleaned/erased TPMS history,

TPMS dark and OK so far. Before it took less 15 miles to come on, about 25m driven after left dealer. First day I used pump meter as gauge 1. (Smaller, no fille) battery went dead so that first cal could have been way off. I know pressures change with heat but even decent gauges vary between each other somehow. They like others have just Cal’d and reset (dealer req’d) and they said most TPMS issues seem to fix themselves so even if it goes off, I’ll just ck pressures ok and NOT decal unless wheels rotated/replaced.
With CTR tires no thicker than a roll of electrical tape it’s almost tempting to grab the bicycle hand pump instead of dragging hoses around with huge gauge and that little analog dial is probably as good as my high tech multiple standards (psi’s, kg/ml, and what’s the other besides goats per square hoof?
 

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