Took my SE at the track and my brakes caught on fire, almost hit the guardrail

[Rusoman]

Work your way up to the Hawk DTC line, it's seriously overkill to try a DTC-70 right out the gate and you definitely shouldn't run them on the street. I am running EBC Yellow's on our Blue Si build, they're plenty for a fast track with mild braking zones.

2 years ago at 25k kms I also lost my stock brakes at the first track outing, and since upgrading them to better pads, fluids, and lines that hasn't happened in over 8 track days since.

Slotted Rotors, SS Braided Brake Lines, Motul RBF600, and EBC Yellow will run you just under $1K CAD if you wanted to grab them from us. Everything is in stock, and can be shipped out tomorrow

https://unity-performance.com/collections/2016-honda-civic-sedan?pf_pt_product_type=Braking

If you have the money, do you choose the Si(EBC Yellowstuff) or the Type R(DTC-70)?

I chose both, EBC Yellowstuff for street and autocross, DTC-70 for the track.

 

[Rusoman]

27won bbk

Lol that's outta my league, that's like AMG-GT.

 

[Rusoman]

I'm shocked your cvt is holding up so well, has been any cvt that was blown in Canada?

I asked my friend service advisor and he told me from years of his experience he only seen one blown cvt. He said it doesn't happen often.

 

[RHMS]

Why not? It's the track. I'm not gonna use it in the street.
The champion from my local track told me: "there's no such thing as overkill brake pads at the track."

There totally is such thing as overkill with brake pads. Running a very high torque pad, especially on lower grip tires (i.e: street tires) is not a solution. A few examples. On my Spec Boxster (on Toyo RR) I started with DTC pads and they were too aggressive. There was no modulation and would easily engage ABS with minor inputs. Not an effective braking solution. Another is the TCA civic I have. When they were figuring out the brake pad setup they had started with too aggressive of a pad. This caused accelerated rotor wear and limited brake pedal travel because of how quickly the pads would cause ABS interference.

You want to match brake setups to your car/tire/setup/driving style. Typically you can call up a brake company and talk to their tech guys who will generally have a good recommendation on where to start.

 

[RHMS]

Like I said, it's for the track, I could easily see 1000°F on my brakes over there.

I think you may be over estimating your brake temps. Especially on a non-aero street car.

 

[Rusoman]

Well frick, I already ordered my brake pad.

 

[Rusoman]

It looks like the SE is the equivalent of an LX-ish in the US. Those pads (and fluid) are not, and clearly were not up to snuff for any track stuff, especially if the fluid is original on a 2018 car.

Not sure which track focused/capable aftermarket brake pad options exist for this trim, but Honda themselves aren't going to stock any of them. You'll want some quality DOT4 fluid to go with them.

Yea SE is in between LX and EX. The brake fluids were actually about 250 km old only, they were newly flushed.

 

[Badigadi]

You definitely need better pads and fluid to do long stretches on a high-speed track. Unrelated, do you have any way to measure your CVT temperature? I'd be concerned running one that hard for that long. CVTs aren't super durable things. My wife's HRV's CVT blew at 66,000 miles and Honda paid for 80%, but it has made me leery of them. I also went through three auto transmissions in my 6th gen accord back in high school due to constant auto-cross. My point is just that passenger vehicles are not designed with this kind of abuse in mind. Good luck sorting your brake issues and I hope your CVT holds on!

If you DIY your brake pads you most likely already have an Autel AP200 OBD2 in order to put your rear brakes in service mode, that same device can show you the CVT temp. I have seen that mine operates around 90°C during my commute, I have not tracked mine yet so don't know how hot it could get.

 

[Dave B]

There totally is such thing as overkill with brake pads. Running a very high torque pad, especially on lower grip tires (i.e: street tires) is not a solution. A few examples. On my Spec Boxster (on Toyo RR) I started with DTC pads and they were too aggressive. There was no modulation and would easily engage ABS with minor inputs. Not an effective braking solution. Another is the TCA civic I have. When they were figuring out the brake pad setup they had started with too aggressive of a pad. This caused accelerated rotor wear and limited brake pedal travel because of how quickly the pads would cause ABS interference.

You want to match brake setups to your car/tire/setup/driving style. Typically you can call up a brake company and talk to their tech guys who will generally have a good recommendation on where to start.

Agree completely. DTC 70s and IMO 60s behave like on/off switches. You need something with LESS initial bite than these pads unless you are running slicks or Hoosiers.

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