Tips for driving tuned to help preserve the clutch?

ATM

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So What are some racing tips from a roll?
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REBELXSi

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Hey all, will probably be pulling the trigger on ktuner v1.2 along with the phearable tune soon and wanted to know any tips to help preserve the oem clutch for as long as possible since this is the first tuned car I've ever had, I plan on switching out to Eman's type R retrofit some time down the line but only after I save for a bit.

I've heard things like don't go WOT at low RPM's, don't lug the car around, only floor it when I'm high rpms like 4-5k? Also don't push it hard when I'm already going fast in higher gears? Thanks!
These are all things that apply to an untuned vehichle as well. There's no difference. Drive like a reasonable person and your clutch will last longer. Drive like a hoon and clutch dies sooner.
 

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Feels much better knowing that i can drive the car as hard as I want without damaging anything.
One could definitely fry the OEM clutch on a stock motor. "As hard as I want" for you can be a totally different thing for some jerk who constantly beats on his car. As with anything, the more you beat on it, the sooner it will die.
 

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One could definitely fry the OEM clutch on a stock motor. "As hard as I want" for you can be a totally different thing for some jerk who constantly beats on his car. As with anything, the more you beat on it, the sooner it will die.
I'm assuming he means more along the lines of "drive the car hard without always worrying what RPM I'm at before stomping on it". That's been a bit of my criticism of people's responses to the weak clutch issue. Honda obviously didn't spec a strong enough clutch (Exedy has admitted as much) and having to tip-toe around a weak clutch just to drive a car like you should be able to drive one really stinks. I'm not saying to go WOT at 2500 RPM as LSPI and lugging come into play there.
 

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One could definitely fry the OEM clutch on a stock motor. "As hard as I want" for you can be a totally different thing for some jerk who constantly beats on his car. As with anything, the more you beat on it, the sooner it will die.
for sure
 


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I wouldn't worry about your clutch, you will blow up your tranny or engine long before your clutch....that is assuming you know how to drive a manual properly
Not true in the least bit.
 

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At 70 in 6th you'll probably be doing around 3K RPM with the higher final drive in the '20. Dropping to 5th should be around 4K RPM, which is right around the minimum RPM you'd want to be going WOT. Probably safer to drop into 4th to do that.
have a '20, at 75mph in 6th gear youre doing exactly 3000RPM
 

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I wouldn't worry about your clutch, you will blow up your tranny or engine long before your clutch....that is assuming you know how to drive a manual properly
Honda Civic 10th gen Tips for driving tuned to help preserve the clutch? 17338b2105c47f83eaceffa110734c11
 


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I wouldn't worry about your clutch, you will blow up your tranny or engine long before your clutch....that is assuming you know how to drive a manual properly
We have a civic Si not a subaru WRX :spaz:
 
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These are all things that apply to an untuned vehichle as well. There's no difference. Drive like a reasonable person and your clutch will last longer. Drive like a hoon and clutch dies sooner.
Gotcha I get it now, this will be the first car I've ever tuned so I'm trying to learn as much as I can before I pull the trigger
 

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I wouldn't worry about your clutch, you will blow up your tranny or engine long before your clutch....that is assuming you know how to drive a manual properly
Is this about clutch or about double mass flywheel? Dmf is what really expensive is.
 
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I'm assuming he means more along the lines of "drive the car hard without always worrying what RPM I'm at before stomping on it". That's been a bit of my criticism of people's responses to the weak clutch issue. Honda obviously didn't spec a strong enough clutch (Exedy has admitted as much) and having to tip-toe around a weak clutch just to drive a car like you should be able to drive one really stinks. I'm not saying to go WOT at 2500 RPM as LSPI and lugging come into play there.
Yes this is exactly what I meant thanks. I don't beat on my car 24/7 I try to take care of it the best I can, drive for the most part conservatively but I do drive hard time to time.

I'm young and graduated college last year, although I technically do have some funds laying around right now for a clutch job I would ideally like to have to replace the clutch 1-2 years down the line after I'm a bit more financially well off.

Y'all convinced me lol I'm gonna get ktuner, just going to keep it in high rpms 4k+ anytime I want to step on it and hopefully this clutch lasts me
 

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Okay so I have a conceptual question about what actually causes the wear on the clutch: is it throttle or is it boost pressure?

Before you throw shade at me, I do understand how a clutch works, but there are some things that confuse me about this topic. Follow my logic here and correct me if I'm wrong..
  1. If the friction plate wears excessively from not only a greater amount of force (torque) than it was meant to handle, but also how quickly that torque is applied (acceleration).
  2. If boost pressure is what produces the force of torque and how quick surge it surges.
Then why are people always warning about watching WOT at specific RPM ranges and not boost pressure at those ranges instead?

I get that more throttle typically means more boost, so I can understand the logical leap here, but the reason I am asking for this distinction is because you can easily hit maximum boost pressure well before WOT. I'm currently tuned on TSP stage 1 and drive almost exclusively in sport mode on map 3 where peak boost is 24 psi. I've been able to hit 24 psi as easily as going from 30-50% throttle passing someone on the highway in 5th or 6th gear, which made my butthole pucker a little driving at 2500 RPM when I first noticed it.

So again, I pose the question, is it throttle or boost pressure? If it is boost pressure, then why aren't we telling everyone to monitor their boost pressure instead? If it isn't boost pressure, why?

If someone can tackle answering this clutch conundrum I'm stuck in I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks in advance!
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