Thought going from 0W-20 to 5w-30?

[TPDxSI]

i've been running 5w-30 Mobil 1 Full Synthetic for around 15k miles now haven't had any issues.
-Stockish power levels
-taken it on three track days
-live in Dallas, TX so it gets hot here

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[IronFusion]

I know there are threads out there but i got annoyed of searching lol

No worries, none of us get annoyed with seeing new threads on the topic pop-up.

 

[IronFusion]

I drained the 0w20 oil after about 1.5k miles on it and it already had the viscosity of water almost

UOAs or you're speaking from the wrong orofice.

 

[IronFusion]

Running Amsoil Oil signature series 0w-20 with ethanol blend, sent my oil (it was the second oil change) to Blackstone. The oil had 5,600Miles on it, no added quarts of oil. Besides a 1.8 fuel % There was no issue running 0w-20 in SoCal (Los Angeles County)

Werd. Informed decisions FTW.

 

[Vincent@27WON]

I mean im not pushing ethanol yet but i just have a basemap tune from ktuner & an 3” intake. I do live in SoCal so it does get hot. I ask because my oil company is short on 0w-20 & itll take up to a week & im already low as it is. Thats where the idea of 5w-30 came into mind. I do plan to go higher on HP & TQ soon so thought of the chance to jump higher.

I 2nd this.

 

[IronFusion]

I mean im not pushing ethanol yet but i just have a basemap tune from ktuner & an 3” intake. I do live in SoCal so it does get hot. I ask because my oil company is short on 0w-20 & itll take up to a week & im already low as it is. Thats where the idea of 5w-30 came into mind. I do plan to go higher on HP & TQ soon so thought of the chance to jump higher.

Manual has guidance for this. Top-off or use 5w-30 to get by, then drain and fill with 0w-20. Not doing this is seeking an excuse to take unguided action, on a whim, to combat a problem you don't know you need to worry about.
Send a sample for UOA and you'll know if you need to counter dilution. If you have a warranty you care about, consider more frequent changes before ditching 0w-20.

I'd think oil quality and maintenance intervals would be a bigger factor (re: sheering and also additive packages) if the stress is greater. The geometry of the internals isn't changing just the demands on the oil. No clue, but I think a lot can be naturally inferred here... Wouldn't there be lots of discussion about going to heavier and more viscous lube in transmissions if I'm wrong in that thought? What's the ratio of higher-weight/viscosity engine lube to transmission lube threads on this site? Further, mo power leads to harder braking. Haven't seen much discussion about veering away from stock brake fluid specs when people add power and big brake kits. Probably because the subconscious boundary where lounge-chair logic gets cut off is the absolute contrast between "meh if I'm wrong it's not like I'll find out any time soon, so I'll just proceed assuming I'm correct: burly manly power must go hand-in-hand with thick beefy oil!" and "oh sh*t, I'm not an engineer and f*ucking my brakes means I die."
Preservation is biologically hardwired... Skipping on informed decisions in the absence of risk-consequences for being wrong and engaging in zero-risk bias action isn't. This is why TP flow off the shelves. And why you might as well step up to 20w-50! No- that was sarcasm. Don't do that.

As far is the intake goes, it's not a factor in oil choice unless you step things up to 8" ?

 

[ebatr24]

I ran 5w-30 in my Si for a good while before I traded in, there wasn't much difference if any. Switched to 5w-30 in my Type R as well.

 

[jayy_swish]

I saw a thread where someone posted a owners manual of a 10th gen owners manual I believe from Japan and there they state 5w-30 was acceptable

 

[dark_knight097]

UOAs or you're speaking from the wrong orofice.

It gets hot as hell where I live and I'm pushing an increase of 50% more power over stock. I also drive sprited a lot and push this car hard. It's not really surprising considering how thin 0w20 is.

 

[ApexEight]

Japanese, and European + South Africa owner's manuals, for Type-R:

 

[Design]

The limited UOAs we have on 5w30 suggest it's fine to use in the summer months. I'd personally be wary of using in sub-freezing temps. Many find that viscosity at operating temps isn't as different as one would expect for normal operation. Part of that may be due to the additives used in the thinner oils these days. 5w30's benefit seems to be as mentioned above, when the engine is subjected to frequent and constant "abuse" in higher ambient temps.

I run Mobile 1 EP 0W20 year round with the Ktuner 23 PSI map. And while I'm not constantly on it, my last UOA suggested I could have easily gone another 1-2K.

 

[TypeSiR]

Maintenance minder “A” popped after driving for 2500 miles (exactly 1 year). It’s getting a little hot around here lately.

Will most likely upgrade to some decent 5W-30 Warren oil since they’re on sale (10 qt shipped) at the wholesale store. Price is even lower in store.

 

[IronFusion]

I saw a thread where someone posted a owners manual of a 10th gen owners manual I believe from Japan and there they state 5w-30 was acceptable

Cool. My car was made for sale in the USA and lives in Pennsylvania. The manual says 0w-20 unless you can't temporarily get it. Not to discount Japanese residents with a turbo civic that are members of this community, but that use is an outier for this topic and doesn't equate to a norm that validates folks stable-genius thinking they know changing to a different oil weight/viscosity is a bright idea because they're pushing more power.

I've run over 23lb of boost and driven my car hard in sustained daytime temps of 90F+ with backcountry mountain drives that caused horrible brake fade. There was runs on a dragstrip in there do, where ECT2 was beyond boiling for tap water and using a spray bottle to cool my intercooler caused "psszt" sounds between drag runs. That OCI was over 14k mi and the data said I could have left it in for another 2-2.5k mi. Is my choice of oil that spectacular, or will folks choose to assign my results as contrarian in favor of what may be printed in the manual for cars in a different, overseas, international market?

 

[The Vyzitor]

Cool. My car was made for sale in the USA and lives in Pennsylvania. The manual says 0w-20 unless you can't temporarily get it. Not to discount Japanese residents with a turbo civic that are members of this community, but that use is an outier for this topic and doesn't equate to a norm that validates folks stable-genius thinking they know changing to a different oil weight/viscosity is a bright idea because they're pushing more power.

I've run over 23lb of boost and driven my car hard in sustained daytime temps of 90F+ with backcountry mountain drives that caused horrible brake fade. There was runs on a dragstrip in there do, where ECT2 was beyond boiling for tap water and using a spray bottle to cool my intercooler caused "psszt" sounds between drag runs. That OCI was over 14k mi and the data said I could have left it in for another 2-2.5k mi. Is my choice of oil that spectacular, or will folks choose to assign my results as contrarian in favor of what may be printed in the manual for cars in a different, overseas, international market?

The folly in this is thinking that your car that was “made for sale in the USA“ is mechanically any different than one sold elsewhere in the world, and that the oil recommendations in the various manuals found in different territories aren’t influenced by local regulatory bodies and laws *cough* C.A.F.E. Standards *cough* more than by actual engineering difference that would necessitate a different grade of oil.

 

[Anger]

In Europe, the manual states 0-20 or 5-30. I 've been using Mobil 1 5-30 without issues or oil consumption.Oil change internals every 5k km. A friend has a non-Si running 0-20 and burned half of it within 5k km. In general most dont have issues with 0-20 but they do change it more frequently than what the usermanual states.

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