This mother fu*%ing TPMS system is going to get me to sell this car…with dealership rant

[20ls01]

I think he should sell it there are plenty of people who want his car. If he doesn't like the car get something he likes.

To me he sounds like a spoiled brat, but ya know. Be blessed with what you have. There are people out here who cant get food to eat because of shortages, cant get medicine, and are on their bed struggling to fight a disease from China.

you missed the damn point.........

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[Byron Sexton]

you missed the damn point.........

Maybe so.....What was the point?

 

[Mufasa]

Maybe so.....What was the point?

I think the point is not using a whataboutism style argument for their issues with their car. They can have their own beef with something without having someone disregard it like you are.

 

[Byron Sexton]

I think the point is not using a whataboutism style argument for their issues with their car. They can have their own beef with something without having someone disregard it like you are.

Ok

 

[Mufasa]

Ok

Sweet edit though

 

[TheCanadian]

And, if you want to laugh even more, consider that I can't import my Canadian Type R into the U.S., because it is not "identical" to the U.S. model. How is it different? It has no TPMS, which is required. So Honda made sure that such importation could not happen - not by changing hardware - but by leaving TPMS out of the PROGRAMMING of the existing hardware. Good luck!

Wow. Seriously ?. There is no workaround ?

 

[Charlie]

*TLDR: car plagued with low tire pressure light. Should I get different type R or sell and get different car listed below*

Two years ago I posted here about needing assistance deciding between CTR and STI. I went Type R and on a day to day basis this car has been pretty spectacular for the most part. It’s great for taking off for the weekend with family with all our gear, transporting equipment for work, and blasting down a back road. Having said that….It has one major flaw in my opinion - it’s POS indirect TPMS system. Between reading forum posts, multiple trips to the dealership, time spent checking tire pressures to add 1 PSI, and tons of 30+ minute drives calibrating, this system has probably wasted 100 + hours of my life.

I can’t even get to 1k miles without the light coming on and that’s WITH checking/adjusting tire pressure on a monthly basis. Here’s a quick log to show you how bad it is:

7/26/21
11,351 miles on odometer
Filled all PS4S tires 35 in front/33 in rear (tires were cold)
Performed 3 calibration resets in a row and drove for 29 miles (around 35 mins) between 30-65 MPH.

8/21/21
11,806 miles on odometer
DR/PR showing 31.5 PSI
DF showing 33.5 PSI
PF showing around 34 PSI
Filled everything to 35/33.
No light yet.

9/21/21
12,110 miles on odometer
DF showing 37 PSI - aired down to 35
DR showing 34.4 PSI - aired down to 33
PF showing 37 PSI - aired down to 35
PR showing 34.5 PSI - aired down to 33
Still no light yet.

9/25
12,160 miles on odometer
Light came on while on the way to Costco.
DF showing 34.2 PSI
DR showing 32.7 PSI
PF showing 34.4 PSI
PR showing 32.7 PSI

So I went 809 miles from 7/26 to 9/25. That’s probably the longest I’ve gone without this light coming on. I’m running aftermarket wheels -18” Titan 7 TS5 wheels with Michelin 255/40/18 tires, but I’ve had no better luck with the factory wheels and tires which maybe have only 2-3k miles on them.

The dealership experience troubleshooting this has also been the worst I’ve ever had with any car company. I’ve had this looked at three different times. The first two times the dealerships I worked with shrugged and reset the system. For the third visit I encouraged Beaverton Honda to do a deeper dive. They required that I put on the factory wheels/tires for troubleshooting. They had my car for 8 + hours. The shop foreman, Gordon, said that they were seeing some strange results with diagnostics - something to the nature of “the system is reporting all the tires are going g flat simultaneously.” Where it gets weird - He insisted I didn’t need paperwork for service because the issue wasn’t resolved and they would be "reaching out to me after they followed up with Honda."

Not thrilled with this, I take my keys and head to my car where I’m greeted with a lovely black grease stain on my driver seat that I spent an hour cleaning up when I got back home. I almost turned around to complain, but I honestly didn't trust the method they might use to clean the seat.

After never receiving a call back with the update from Honda corporate, I initiated a call with the service Manager, Amanda. She said she would talk to Gordon and get back to me. Never heard back. Months go by and I tried again to initiate the troubleshooting process, but because it was winter I needed to use my winter wheels/tires and inquired if we could continue that way. The girl I spoke with said she would have to ask some others and get back to me. Again...no call back.

I then sent a long email via the “contact our GM” on the dealership website with no email back. Finally, I recently started a formal complaint with Honda corporate. I’ve *never* done anything remotely close to tha before. In fact I’ve never really even had a problem with a dealership before. Honda corporate says they said they tried to get a hold of me and do have the paperwork for the visit they can send me. I know they never called and will happily pull my Verizon phone records to show Honda I never received a call, but that would only mean more of my time.

From all the threads I've read, I've concluded that most people don't struggle with this often once they perform the 3x calibration, but for me that's only good for about 800 miles. I've even seen some speculate that it could have something to deal with the different roads we're all driving on.

Anyways, after all of this…I’m really stuck at what to do. I feel like at this point I shouldn't waste additional time troubleshooting the problem anymore. Even if I did I wouldn't want to work with the same dealership, which could potentially mean starting from scratch.

Part of me wants to sell and replace with a different Type R to see if it’s something unique to my car. The problem is, one does not simply go and buy a Type R - it would mean calling a million dealerships to avoid not getting killed on ADM, and then having to have the car shipped here. All of that to potentially find out the new car is just as bad - doesn't sound great.

I’m also considering taking the equity in my car and shopping for a Tesla Model 3 LR (no CarPlay though), 2021 STI (boost lag dinosaur engine/no adjustable dampers), upcoming 2022 Golf R (shitty touch infotainment), or go Toyota GR86 and not use my car for hauling the family around (wife has outback wilderness on order). I find it funny that here I am two years later now considering getting an STI.

I'm also all ears for any other recommendations on fun replacement cars.

BTW can we agree this system is absolutely useless? Time is money and I would GLADLY spend $200-250 on actual TPMS sensors if it means I’m not wasting time driving around *just* to calibrate a system that can be thrown off by a winter/summer temps or the vibrations from a shitty road. I mean it’s absolutely pointless. I have zero faith in the system.

Does anyone know how to disable the sensor to help this guy?

 

[tinyman392]

*TLDR: car plagued with low tire pressure light. Should I get different type R or sell and get different car listed below*

Two years ago I posted here about needing assistance deciding between CTR and STI. I went Type R and on a day to day basis this car has been pretty spectacular for the most part. It’s great for taking off for the weekend with family with all our gear, transporting equipment for work, and blasting down a back road. Having said that….It has one major flaw in my opinion - it’s POS indirect TPMS system. Between reading forum posts, multiple trips to the dealership, time spent checking tire pressures to add 1 PSI, and tons of 30+ minute drives calibrating, this system has probably wasted 100 + hours of my life.

I can’t even get to 1k miles without the light coming on and that’s WITH checking/adjusting tire pressure on a monthly basis. Here’s a quick log to show you how bad it is:

7/26/21
11,351 miles on odometer
Filled all PS4S tires 35 in front/33 in rear (tires were cold)
Performed 3 calibration resets in a row and drove for 29 miles (around 35 mins) between 30-65 MPH.

8/21/21
11,806 miles on odometer
DR/PR showing 31.5 PSI
DF showing 33.5 PSI
PF showing around 34 PSI
Filled everything to 35/33.
No light yet.

9/21/21
12,110 miles on odometer
DF showing 37 PSI - aired down to 35
DR showing 34.4 PSI - aired down to 33
PF showing 37 PSI - aired down to 35
PR showing 34.5 PSI - aired down to 33
Still no light yet.

9/25
12,160 miles on odometer
Light came on while on the way to Costco.
DF showing 34.2 PSI
DR showing 32.7 PSI
PF showing 34.4 PSI
PR showing 32.7 PSI

So I went 809 miles from 7/26 to 9/25. That’s probably the longest I’ve gone without this light coming on. I’m running aftermarket wheels -18” Titan 7 TS5 wheels with Michelin 255/40/18 tires, but I’ve had no better luck with the factory wheels and tires which maybe have only 2-3k miles on them.

The dealership experience troubleshooting this has also been the worst I’ve ever had with any car company. I’ve had this looked at three different times. The first two times the dealerships I worked with shrugged and reset the system. For the third visit I encouraged Beaverton Honda to do a deeper dive. They required that I put on the factory wheels/tires for troubleshooting. They had my car for 8 + hours. The shop foreman, Gordon, said that they were seeing some strange results with diagnostics - something to the nature of “the system is reporting all the tires are going g flat simultaneously.” Where it gets weird - He insisted I didn’t need paperwork for service because the issue wasn’t resolved and they would be "reaching out to me after they followed up with Honda."

Not thrilled with this, I take my keys and head to my car where I’m greeted with a lovely black grease stain on my driver seat that I spent an hour cleaning up when I got back home. I almost turned around to complain, but I honestly didn't trust the method they might use to clean the seat.

After never receiving a call back with the update from Honda corporate, I initiated a call with the service Manager, Amanda. She said she would talk to Gordon and get back to me. Never heard back. Months go by and I tried again to initiate the troubleshooting process, but because it was winter I needed to use my winter wheels/tires and inquired if we could continue that way. The girl I spoke with said she would have to ask some others and get back to me. Again...no call back.

I then sent a long email via the “contact our GM” on the dealership website with no email back. Finally, I recently started a formal complaint with Honda corporate. I’ve *never* done anything remotely close to tha before. In fact I’ve never really even had a problem with a dealership before. Honda corporate says they said they tried to get a hold of me and do have the paperwork for the visit they can send me. I know they never called and will happily pull my Verizon phone records to show Honda I never received a call, but that would only mean more of my time.

From all the threads I've read, I've concluded that most people don't struggle with this often once they perform the 3x calibration, but for me that's only good for about 800 miles. I've even seen some speculate that it could have something to deal with the different roads we're all driving on.

Anyways, after all of this…I’m really stuck at what to do. I feel like at this point I shouldn't waste additional time troubleshooting the problem anymore. Even if I did I wouldn't want to work with the same dealership, which could potentially mean starting from scratch.

Part of me wants to sell and replace with a different Type R to see if it’s something unique to my car. The problem is, one does not simply go and buy a Type R - it would mean calling a million dealerships to avoid not getting killed on ADM, and then having to have the car shipped here. All of that to potentially find out the new car is just as bad - doesn't sound great.

I’m also considering taking the equity in my car and shopping for a Tesla Model 3 LR (no CarPlay though), 2021 STI (boost lag dinosaur engine/no adjustable dampers), upcoming 2022 Golf R (shitty touch infotainment), or go Toyota GR86 and not use my car for hauling the family around (wife has outback wilderness on order). I find it funny that here I am two years later now considering getting an STI.

I'm also all ears for any other recommendations on fun replacement cars.

BTW can we agree this system is absolutely useless? Time is money and I would GLADLY spend $200-250 on actual TPMS sensors if it means I’m not wasting time driving around *just* to calibrate a system that can be thrown off by a winter/summer temps or the vibrations from a shitty road. I mean it’s absolutely pointless. I have zero faith in the system.

The FK8 doesn’t have actual TPMS sensors in it. It has a tendency to give false positives but it’s false negative rate is nearly 0 (light != tires flat; tires flat = light). If you get a lot in a short period of time, it’s likely that the TPMS needs to be reset. Set the tire pressures while they are cold (like in the morning). Then go in and recalibrate 3x in a row giving about 10 seconds between each one. The tire light in the dash should flash and the reset process has begun. The system also can be weird when you get new tires. For whatever reason I had to reset a few times. I think if the system fails to reset, you’ll get the light back up.

 

[CharlieTangoRomeo]

I got my first false this weekend at 12k. Hopefully it doesn't become a persistent issue.

TPMS alerted three times previously--all legitimate. Twice for a tire that deflated to 25ish psi due to a nail and once because I rotated and didn't run the calibration after.

 

[RTC975]

It's not that hard to calibrate the system once you get the procedure down.

1. Tires stone cold (preferably parked overnight, in shade, check pressures and set in the morning before the sun can hit them).
2. Start car, start the calibration process 3x, 10 sec delay in between. Indicator on the dash will flash.
3. Drive for 30 minutes. I have a route that is 5-7 minutes of 35-40mph zone that leads on to the highway. I stay on that going no more than 65mph. I will keep it at 64 intentionally on the cruise for about 15-20 minutes. I then take an exit and click off the cruise and let it coast down to 35-40, depending on the exit ramp. I will then drive around town for another 10-15 minutes or so in 30-35 mph zones with traffic lights and stop signs. Normal in town driving. This whole process gives the system the range of speeds over the specified time to calibrate off of.
4. Done. The system won't get pissed off unless there's a big temperature swing (typically colder than when it was last calibrated). Check the tires weekly, same steps as #1.

A GOOD tire pressure gauge is key. Longacre is my go-to brand.

The system is MEGA sensitive. 2-ish psi low and it will go off. It's doing its job. Calibration is a pain in the ass, but the system does work. The pressure swings are MUCH more sensitive with the oem 20's than it is the 18's I have on it now.

 

[tacthecat]

Does anyone know how to disable the sensor to help this guy?

In a word NO! The TPMS is part of a data sensing set used to run the ABS, Stability control (VSA), etc, AND monitor the tires. Thus far the OPs postings appear to be partially self-induced (ie anal retentive) and may indicate tires/wheels/valve stems that are not mounted correctly or leak excessively.

It would be rare for the cause to be TPMS if the resets are being done correctly.

 

[hondabandit]

When the tpms warning is lit, does it affect the vsa, or can I ignore the warning? Because of honda sensing error, I can not access the menu.

 

[tacthecat]

When the tpms warning is lit, does it affect the vsa, or can I ignore the warning? Because of honda sensing error, I can not access the menu.

Only if a wheel sensor issue is causing the TPMS, but you can't turn VSA OFF if a TPMS alert is displayed.

 

[frodooftheshire]

It's not that hard to calibrate the system once you get the procedure down.

1. Tires stone cold (preferably parked overnight, in shade, check pressures and set in the morning before the sun can hit them).
2. Start car, start the calibration process 3x, 10 sec delay in between. Indicator on the dash will flash.
3. Drive for 30 minutes. I have a route that is 5-7 minutes of 35-40mph zone that leads on to the highway. I stay on that going no more than 65mph. I will keep it at 64 intentionally on the cruise for about 15-20 minutes. I then take an exit and click off the cruise and let it coast down to 35-40, depending on the exit ramp. I will then drive around town for another 10-15 minutes or so in 30-35 mph zones with traffic lights and stop signs. Normal in town driving. This whole process gives the system the range of speeds over the specified time to calibrate off of.
4. Done. The system won't get pissed off unless there's a big temperature swing (typically colder than when it was last calibrated). Check the tires weekly, same steps as #1.

A GOOD tire pressure gauge is key. Longacre is my go-to brand.

The system is MEGA sensitive. 2-ish psi low and it will go off. It's doing its job. Calibration is a pain in the ass, but the system does work. The pressure swings are MUCH more sensitive with the oem 20's than it is the 18's I have on it now.

A low tire pressure system that goes off if a tire is 2 PSI low doesn’t work. Here in Oregon with wildly fluctuating temps tire pressure can easily go down 2 PSI. With my wife’s car I’ve spent exactly zero minutes troubleshooting TPMS issues vs 100 hours with mine. I would LOVE to disable it. A safety system that you can put ZERO faith in is not a safety system. It’s a poorly designed system. Again…maybe my system is malfunctioning…but dealerships have been zero help.
BTW… I finally got this screenshot from the day they never provided paperwork.

 

[frodooftheshire]

In a word NO! The TPMS is part of a data sensing set used to run the ABS, Stability control (VSA), etc, AND monitor the tires. Thus far the OPs postings appear to be partially self-induced (ie anal retentive) and may indicate tires/wheels/valve stems that are not mounted correctly or leak excessively.

It would be rare for the cause to be TPMS if the resets are being done correctly.

Nope…nope….and nope. Issue has occurred with factory wheels and tires as well as two different sets of after market wheels and tires.

And no…wanting a shitty system to work is not being anal retentive. I value my time….do you know how many 30 minute drives to nowhere I’ve done to calibrate this ridiculous system? Wasted time…wasted fuel…pointless.

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