charleswrivers
Senior Member
- First Name
- Charles
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2017
- Threads
- 43
- Messages
- 3,736
- Reaction score
- 4,468
- Location
- Kingsland, GA
- Vehicle(s)
- '14 Odyssey, '94 300zx, 2001 F-150
- Vehicle Showcase
- 1
- Thread starter
- #16
Yep… I’ve done the CAS connector before when that harness failed maybe 2-3 years ago and it randomly stopped wanting to start. I do have a fluke and checked the coils and that one read fine. Swapped anyways and the dead cylinder didn’t move. I have a friend with a 300zx in town I was going to see if I could borrow his PTM and just do a quick swap in and see if that cures it. Otherwise, it’s the plug (and I really doubt that) interconnecting wiring, ECU or maybe something related to a fusible link. It’s not something I expect either but it’s also in the circuit. I’ve poured through the FSM and found the ignition system troubleshooting guide. Read a pile online. My connectors on the PTM look good but they’re a culprit for an occasional down cylinder, though a poor idle (mine isn’t perfect though at times) or starting failure(mine starts fine) seems more common. Or… ECU. Mines the original, modified for EPROMs as I have 740cc injectors.I can't decide on the new Z. I was impatient and got my 2020 FC3 for a daily-upgrade (from a 2010 corolla) but I was strongly considering holding off and just buying the Z when I can get a test drive in, if I like it. I was hyped about the latest Supra until I saw one up close. I am not so hyped anymore. Sure they're a great car, I guess, but I'll stick with my other cars. I just don't like the lines at all. Will see how I feel about a Z when I can see it in person. So far I like the pictures.
Wiring gremlins can be a real PITA. Get one of the RC div homies to borrow a Fluke 289 off the boat and help you chase it down (guessing you're sub from the GA loc.) Otherwise grab a decent DMM and start back-probing. I'd have to dig through the Z32 fsm but most coils have a constant 12v, a ground, and a swiched 5v for trigger. if you've got ground and 12v constant, it's going to be trigger wire so start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, grab the FSM pinout for the trigger wire to that coil, and verify continuity between ECU and coil-plug. if you're missing 12V then do the same for that instead. The 12v usually is branch-connected at some point though
I had a broken CAS wire in one of my S13's that was inside the insulation. It'd come loose over a bump and kill the car then when it sat/settled would reconect enough to let me get it started. Took me forever to find. I did a continuity test and figured out the resistance between ECU and dizzy plug was strangely high and started jiggling harness from A-B until I could get it to actually go open and cut/replaced the wire in that section.
Almost sounds like a goddamn mouse was in your shit chewing on wires while you were on tour.
Anyways, going to see if that fella is a on duty today or not. A PTU swap out s a 5 minute job and it’d be a free check to borrow his. My goodie box of Z parts I’ve amassed doesn’t have one. Thanks for the suggestions.
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