Thinking of Buying a CTR A few questions..

[Callou2131]

So I am thinking of buying a CTR in Febuary or marchish, and had a few dumb questions. I have searched and have seen conflicting info on both, so figure I would see what I could get here. Going to be upgrading from a 2017 Hatch, and using it as a daily driver.
1)Being a daily, I have heard some people put 18" tires and rims on, because of the ultra low profile 20s on it. I put on around 30k a year and really dont feel like buying super expensive tires every year and a half. i have read reports where it may not handle as well with 18s because of the way the suspension is set up. I wont be tracking the car, but enjoy spirited backroad driving. Would this be an issue?

2) Are dealers still marking up, or should I expect to pay sticker? Less? (doubtful) have any of you gotten dealers to throw in extras like the phone charger etc.

3) Have any of you put on a roof rack? I like to kayak, and this would be my vehicle for that

4) A 93 octane Tune. I have access everywhere to 93 Octane so would like to do this. Granted I know less than nothing about tuning so I would be looking for a plug and play. Anyone done this with No bolt ons? All I would want to do is the tune. Big difference?

5) I know its a lot of stuff right off, so I sincerely thank anyone that answers.

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[REC13]

1)There are some affordable options in the 20" size that comes on the car. Nexen from $125 each or Hankook $175. Unfortunately no options are going to be very long lasting. 12-25k mileage depending on tire choice, driving habits(long commute or short neighborhood trips), and style(aggressive heavy foot or casual Sunday cruise). That being said, I have a set of 18" wheels ordered because I wanted to improve ride quality, broaden my available tire options, add more width and a meatier tire that would protect my wheels a little better. I do plan on tracking my car and performance concerns or loss steering precision would be negligible.

2)I would not expect to haggle or deal on a Type r even 3-4 years after release. My local dealer was asking $50k for one with a bunch of over priced dealer add ons installed. I bought a used one with 6k on it because I got soooooooooo frustrated trying to buy new for 3 years from almost 15 different dealers within driving distance of my home. I bought way under sticker and can't be happier.

3)I would think any roof rack from a reputable company like Yakima or Thule for a hatchback civic would work. I don't think the roof is anything special.

4)My car is still stock, so I can't offer personal input.

 

[NapalmEnema]

I'd just counsel not planning a modification path for a car you haven't had a chance to drive and live with. Modifications, to me, should be something an individual decides to add to a car after owning it and finding some personal shortcomings they would like to specifically address.

Myself for instance - I've modified pretty much every car I ever owned, but with purpose when I got them. I haven't found anything to touch on the Type R, it feels great as it sits and I find nothing to address.

Some may want more power than stock after owning, and there are a ton of paths from there. But really - just get it - drive it 4-6 months, then see what you want to add.


Best way to make sure you don't regret any parts!

That said - a simple tune is good for a lot of power without adding any parts. Just google Type R Hondata base tune dyno and you can see results, it appears to be a nice jump with that alone.


Good luck with your journey, it's an amazingly fun car.

 

[MadMage]

1) That many miles a year you will want different tires. 18" can be fine, just try to change the scrub radius as little as possible. You do that with the tire offset.
2) Depends where you are. West Cost markup is still $5k-10k. I heard someone recently got one in Vermont for a few hundred MSRP. No idea about other countries.
3) Nope, but as long as you account for the hatch and wing when opening I don't see a problem.
4) My understanding is that the car will adjust itself for 91 or 93 and you don't have to tune for either. BUT, I've not gotten into tuning yet so can't be sure.
5) Hope to see you join us!

 

[ManEatingPenguin]

1. If you are going to put 30k miles a year get some 18" wheels and some all season tires. the ride quality difference will be worth every penny going to 18" especially if you are going to spend that much time driving it. Decent all season tires with a higher tread wear will be better for you, you'll still get to do some spirited backroad driving without blowing through 3 sets of tires in a year
2. I have been told dealers are still putting a ~5K markup for the Type R but I haven't checked this myself
3. I haven't but I've seen photos of a few people putting a roof rack on the Type R. Its no different than a regular civic hatch
4. I've never done any tunes without having some bolts-on so I don't know what kind of gains you will get with just a 93 tune with no bolt-ons

 

[Jimmyjambo_fk8]

So I am thinking of buying a CTR in Febuary or marchish, and had a few dumb questions. I have searched and have seen conflicting info on both, so figure I would see what I could get here. Going to be upgrading from a 2017 Hatch, and using it as a daily driver.
1)Being a daily, I have heard some people put 18" tires and rims on, because of the ultra low profile 20s on it. I put on around 30k a year and really dont feel like buying super expensive tires every year and a half. i have read reports where it may not handle as well with 18s because of the way the suspension is set up. I wont be tracking the car, but enjoy spirited backroad driving. Would this be an issue?

2) Are dealers still marking up, or should I expect to pay sticker? Less? (doubtful) have any of you gotten dealers to throw in extras like the phone charger etc.

3) Have any of you put on a roof rack? I like to kayak, and this would be my vehicle for that

4) A 93 octane Tune. I have access everywhere to 93 Octane so would like to do this. Granted I know less than nothing about tuning so I would be looking for a plug and play. Anyone done this with No bolt ons? All I would want to do is the tune. Big difference?

5) I know its a lot of stuff right off, so I sincerely thank anyone that answers.

I would contact Superstitions Honda, here in Arizona. Ask for Adrian. Tell him James Pierce sent you, I purchased my 2019 R from him. I shopped around for 9 months, they gave me the best deal. Please let me know, if you reach him. I might get a few oil changes out of it. Lol

 

[kefi]

I'll mainly comment on #4 since that's my specialty.

The 93 octane basemap from Hondata or KTuner will give you a fairly decent chunk of power without any bolt-ons whatsoever. You're looking at anywhere from 30 to 50 horsepower just from a tune alone, which gives you a BIG boost in the mid-late range where the FK8 really shines.

On top of that, with Hondata you're getting full throttle shifting, advanced traction control (which is awesome), starting in +R mode, and a couple of other nifty features.

KTuner (v2) provides you with an awesome touchscreen and has basemaps developed by one of the best, Derek Robinson from IMW. Some custom tuners can also provide features like full throttle shift on KTuner.

Both of these tunes give you more than just raw power - it smooths out the power delivery and just makes things feel more sporty/responsive - sometimes to the point where it's not something everyone would like.

What @NapalmEnema said rings true. Live with the car for a bit. Feel it out, see what you really wanna do first. This car is absolutely nutso from the factory and made me giggle like a kid when I first drove it. You should get a feel for what it's like without the additional power - get used to the handling, feel how much power it can take on a hard turn, how much power the wheels can take before you spin out.

If you want to know more about tuning, damn near everything is in my megathread linked in my signature (and stickied at the top of the forum) or you can always ask around here like you did and we're happy to answer.

Regarding #1 - I live in Florida near Orlando, where there's constant highway construction. I've already lost three tires to potholes or objects on the road, totally busted a rim, and replaced my four factory tires all within the first 20,000 miles. The tires on this thing suck, and most people make the switch to 18"s. I haven't and just keep some road & tire protection on the wheels. I run Michel Pilot Sport 4Ses now. But the tires are definitely the largest cost of owning an FK8.

 

[CHiNG818]

The wheels and Hondata are probably the most important couple of mods. The stock wheels are not meant for daily driving. If you desire more fun with the car than Hondata is the way to go.

 

[MDFK8]

1) You’ll be fine and most likely happier with 18’s and a good tire. There’s plenty of options to fit different budgets/needs/wants.

2) I see you’re from MD- me too. I got my ‘19 for MSRP in August 2019 from a dealer 10 minutes away from me. I waited 2-3 weeks for the car to arrive. I called some others beforehand in NoVa and Southern MD and all had a markup. I told them I had no problem with MSRP, but they loved giving reasons why MSRP wasn’t realistic.

3) I’ve seen a roof rack on two- shouldn’t be a problem.

4) I have Hondata and if you’re just looking for a 93 octane tune, you’d be fine with them. I have no knowledge on KTuner. The tune will make a noticeable difference, but like others have said, learn your car first. I got Hondata around 20k miles. If you decide to do more down the road (you will lol) they have more options for different set ups.

Don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any other questions.

 

[dwag0588]

Go with the highest offset 5x120 18” or 19” wheels you can for high mileage daily driving. You will find that most wheel manufacturers won’t make high offset wheels for this car. There are a few options, but many will adversely affect bump steer and torque steer. I moved to a +53mm 19” wheel with a 255/35 19 tire for autocross and could immediately feel small tugs at the wheel under power that aren’t there on the OEM 20’s. Honda didn’t put those wheels on there just for looks. It can have a palpable effect on the handling.

 

[CHiNG818]

Best mod in my opinion was downgrading to 18'. The car is still going to perform amazingly look better and feel more confortable.

 

[Doublestack00]

19's to me seem to be the best middle ground better gaining some riding quality and not giving up a ton of handling performance.

You can get them for MSRP you just may have to travel to get it, I recently got my BB for $500 over.

 

[Jpierro79]

18s do not ruin the handling. The ctr race car uses 18s. Yes offset will effect torque steer but on a flat road with no huge crowns it’s hardly noticeable vs stock. I have a +43 a lot of people run +35 but I would expect that to be worse with torque steer but people say it’s fine. 18s are actual am improvement if you go with a 265/35/18 you’ll be perfectly fine. Some do a 275-35/18. Good tires make all the difference. If you buy cheap tires on 18 s you get cheap handling and grip. I have Michelin Pilot sport 4s. You’ll find the majority people use this tire. 18s do ride much nicer as well. Less road noise. More acceleration grip. I actually felt switching out to 18s have better compliance and allowed a little more lateral grip and gives you more control when you actually do break lateral traction. Keep in mind I am using a 265 not a 245.

Don’t pay over sticker unless your getting limited version. No matter what they tell you plenty of dealers charge sticker only
Don’t pay over sticker unless your getting limited version. No matter what they tell you plenty of dealers charge sticker only

can’t tell you about roof racks.

A tune makes a considerable difference but without an upgraded intercooler all you end up doing is getting stock intercooler heat soaked faster. It’s way too small. An intercooler is pretty much a must have. The biggest gains after a tune come from an intercooler and a downpipe. Anything after that is not a big increase no matter what a manufacturer claims. intakes are minimal gains just throw a k&n filter in it. This is good for at least 340whp. I felt no gains after adding exhaust after intercooler downpipe and intake. I now am custom tuned so it would possibly play a factor now but so much not on am off the shelf map.

 

[Caestus]

19's to me seem to be the best middle ground better gaining some riding quality and not giving up a ton of handling performance.

You can get them for MSRP you just may have to travel to get it, I recently got my BB for $500 over.

I second this. I love my 19s!!!

 

[JayDiem]

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/roof-racks-on-the-fk8-type-r.23390/

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