The Tuned CivicX Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models)

[gtman]

December 2020 Tuning Thread Car of the Month

CivicPR0
2018 Sport Touring Hatch (CVT)
KTuner V2; Custom tuned by D-Rob
293whp/257wtq | E28
262whp/238wtq | 93 Octane

This pick was a no-brainer. No only does he have a nicely modded car with fantastic power numbers, he's regularly added updates to the thread!

 

[vansaint]

Vehicle: 2018 Civic sedan 1.5T

Total tuned time: 2 years.

Total mileage: 70000 miles

Total tuned mileage: 60000 miles

Tuning device(s) used: ktuner v2

Tunes used: stage 2

Fuel used: Thailand Gasohol 95

Additional engine mods: Non

Problems/issues: Up until 5 months ago everything was great, no problems whatsoever.

Then one morning driving to work there’s a clatter and the right side of the bonnet starts smoking and sudden loss of oil pressure. I pull over and oil leaking all over the floor.

I live in Thailand and have little understanding of the language and everything is handled by the company I work with. They took pictures below and all I got was that the oil tank broke and that I must have hit something. I don’t remember hitting anything and was driving very causally when it happened. By looking at the pictures can anyone say what it is and could the tune have caused it? Needless to say I did reset it back to factory before they picked it up. It took 5 months to repair, they said a total engine refit. The engine does look new. I never did get an answer about what caused it even though I would ask every week.



Driving style: normal to spirited. I have a 200km round trip everyday. Long tollway straights. Daily outside temps of 30-35c.

 

[gtman]

Sorry this happened and glad it was repaired.

The repair place told you the "oil tank" broke because you hit something? Anything is possible I guess. Can you ask again for more details?

 

[vansaint]

Hi there,
I will ask again and report back.
Thanks for the reply.
It was still worth it, the tune.
It just makes the car so much better.
Best, most fun car I have ever had.

 

[vansaint]

Ps. I put the tune back on as soon as I got it back!

 

[ATLAC]

Vehicle: 2017 Civic Type R USDM

Total tuned time: 9 months

Total tuned mileage: 20,000+ miles

Tuning device(s) used: Hondata FlashPro

Tunes used: Hondata 93 Octane basemap with Improved Throttle Reponse - default Hondata Traction Control and No Lift Shift Programming

Fuel used: Costco Kirkland 93 Octane (R+M)/2

Additional engine mods: PRL High Volume Intake, PRL Intercooler, PRL Charge Pipe Upgrade

Problems/issues: None other than stock charge pipe coupler tear which was remedied with the PRL Charge Pipe Upgrade

Driving style: Agressive but not abusive

Tuning experience notes: First turbocharged car and first car that has been tuned. Hondata makes decent basemaps and for the FK8, is the best tuning method. Tune was installed by a local Honda dealership which included a warranty as long as I stay on Hondata basemaps. Certainly there is more overhead but it seems like a good balance between gains and staying well reliable. The magic of Hondata is not in the tune only, however, but in the traction control, which simply lets the tires hook and the car takes off.

I am curious which honda dealership you used as I live close by to Woodstock and am curious of a Honda dealer that installs tunes.

 

[gtman]

Here's a list of authorized Hondata reflash shops.

https://www.hondata.com/dealer-reflash

You'll see that there are only a handful of actual Honda dealerships that do this. The reason so few Honda dealers do this is simple... warranty. If a Honda dealer does Hondata reflashes and warrants them, they're doing this on their own dime. This isn't something approved by Honda.

 

[Civics4Ever]

Vehicle: 2018 Civic sedan 1.5T

Total tuned time: 2 years.

Total mileage: 70000 miles

Total tuned mileage: 60000 miles

Tuning device(s) used: ktuner v2

Tunes used: stage 2

Fuel used: Thailand Gasohol 95

Additional engine mods: Non

Problems/issues: Up until 5 months ago everything was great, no problems whatsoever.

Then one morning driving to work there’s a clatter and the right side of the bonnet starts smoking and sudden loss of oil pressure. I pull over and oil leaking all over the floor.

I live in Thailand and have little understanding of the language and everything is handled by the company I work with. They took pictures below and all I got was that the oil tank broke and that I must have hit something. I don’t remember hitting anything and was driving very causally when it happened. By looking at the pictures can anyone say what it is and could the tune have caused it? Needless to say I did reset it back to factory before they picked it up. It took 5 months to repair, they said a total engine refit. The engine does look new. I never did get an answer about what caused it even though I would ask every week.



Driving style: normal to spirited. I have a 200km round trip everyday. Long tollway straights. Daily outside temps of 30-35c.

Definitely looks like something hit and cracked the oil pan. I am wondering though, do the overseas cars not have the under engine splash plate?

 

[gtman]

Definitely looks like something hit and cracked the oil pan. I am wondering though, do the overseas cars not have the under engine splash plate?

Great question. Or maybe the dealer forgot to put it back on after an oil change?

 

[bennylopez_32]

Vehicle:
2020 Si Coupe

Total tuned time:
10-11 months

Total tuned mileage:
13,000ish Miles

Tuning device(s) used:
Hondata Race version

Tunes used:
Hondata +6 basemap for 4 months, then Tsp stage 1 the rest of the time

Fuel used:
Costco 91, then shell 91, now chevron 91 with about .75gallons of e85 to try to mix about an e15 blend to keep knock control solid at 54-56 (equivalent to ktuner .49). No flex fuel kit installed yet

Additional engine mods:
PRL Cobra Race Maf
PRL Intercooler
Hasport 62a RMM
(Soon to come PRL Dp/Fp+flex fuel kit)
Stock clutch still with no slip

Problems/issues: None

Driving style:
Typically cruising to work and back. Smooth shifting. A couple pulls each time.
Every couple drives full send 3-4th gear.
Several canyon drives, full sending corners and straights lol.
1 time drag strip when stock (only basemap tune), full sent launch and everything. About 6 runs (my times sucked lol like mid 15seconds)
Some races (in mexico ?)
So I take care of the car (I believe so) but also have fun with it smart. Doing pulls only over 2.5k or 3K rpms and sometimes rolling into it rather than slamming on it. Avoiding high boost in 5-6th gear



Tuning experience notes:
No personal experience. Will most likely get an e-tune from D.Rob when I get my flex fuel kit

Located in CA

New Update!

Vehicle:
2020 Si Coupe

Total tuned time:
1 year

Total tuned mileage:
15000ish Miles

Tuning device(s) used:
Hondata Race version, then recently switched to ktuner v2. Loved the switch btw

Tunes used:
Hondata +6 basemap for 4 months, then Tsp stage 1 the rest of the time

Fuel used:
Costco 91, then shell 91, now chevron 91 with about .75gallons of e85 to try to mix about an e15 blend to keep knock control solid at 54-56 (equivalent to ktuner .49). No flex fuel kit installed yet

Additional engine mods:
PRL Cobra Race Maf
PRL Intercooler
Hasport 62a RMM
(Soon to come PRL Dp/Fp+flex fuel kit)
Stock clutch still with no slip

Problems/issues: None

Driving style:
Typically cruising to work and back. Smooth shifting. A couple pulls each time.
Every couple drives full send 3-4th gear for fun.
Several canyon drives, full sending corners and straights lol.
1 time drag strip when stock (only basemap tune), full sent launch and everything. About 6 runs (my times sucked lol like mid 15seconds)
Some races (in mexico ?)
So I take care of the car (I believe so) but also have fun with it smart. Doing pulls only over 2.5k or 3K rpms and sometimes rolling into it rather than slamming on it. Avoiding high boost in 5-6th gear



Tuning experience notes:
I was not enjoying how jerky tsp stage 1 felt on hondata. I saw ktuner released an update for throttle padding and throttle sensitivity. This was something ive been wanting to do so I managed to switch over to ktuner and love the feel of the car now. It is much better and im still using tsp stage 1. I have a prl catted dp/fp on the way, picking up a type r retrofit exhaust, and installing a prl flex fuel kit inna couple days so I purchased the phearable stage 2.5 tune and im excited to give this a go! I will have a lot to update as time passes I just wanted to post this last update on my current set up. Hondata worked great but I enjoy ktuner more. And tsp stage 1 aside from jerkyness (fixed by ktuner) had worked great for me with no clutch slip yet or issues. Im hoping to have a decent life on my clutch but if it comes down to it I will be getting the type r clutch and eventually in a year or longer a big turbo. We will see.

Located in CA

 

[Rahat083144]

Definitely looks like something hit and cracked the oil pan. I am wondering though, do the overseas cars not have the under engine splash plate?

They do. Must've been a specific reason why the plate wasn't on this particular car when the incident happened.

 

[Virhan]

Watch your connecting rods, i ve got
My ConRod bent in cylinder 1, with my 18 Psi KTuner custom tune.
First time was there is small rattle noises at 1500-1800 RPM. Until my car sucks water in flood ( mbecause my cold air intake at under left front fender) then it became worse. But I was graceful it force me to realize there was a bent ConRods (since up boost Psi) by opening the cylinder Block and replace all 4 of ConRods to aftermarket. You will see how bad Honda put the material inside the ConRods. And Now, abrakadabra, there are no rattle & no knock retard, even better.
My advice is : Replace all of ConRods with the strongfull 4’s.

 

[gtman]

Vehicle: 2017 Civic CVT 1.5T Hatchback
Total tuned time: 1 month

Total tuned mileage: 1500 km

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner V1.2

Tunes used: dual starter 16/18 psi, MAF self calibration, IAT retard ignition correction

Fuel used: Pertalite octane 90

Additional engine mods: K&N cone filter only w/ self mods MAF hose, pipe & heat shield
- ORD (local) downpipe catless, frontpipe, centerpipe, resonator & muffler (full system)
- china blow off valve
- Type R hood bonnet
- spark gap tightening 0.7 mm

Problems/issues: - high negative value STFT (-10%)
- high knock control, knock retard and everything about ignition
- actual ignition retard @1,250-1500 RPM
- high IAT (hard to below 50⁰C)

Driving style: slow at downtown, fast at uptown

Tuning experience notes: All issues SOLVED by tunes and all engine mods. First, device able to live monitor what actually happened, then fix the issues. STFT deviation : easy fix by calibrating, knock and ignition retard : hard to solve, finally need tightening spark gap-double heat shield mods successfully fix the issues, high IAT : solved even better than factory stock air filter (37⁰C vs 45⁰C in average).

Virhan. A couple points we need to discuss here. First off, I'm sorry for the failure you had.

But let's talk about what may have contributed.

1. In your failure post you talk about driving through a flood. You do know that hydrolock can potentially cause a bent connecting rod, correct?

2. You talk about changing some ignition parameters and maf scaling and fuel trim issues. IMO, you need to be careful when self tuning because it may seem easy but still best left to the pros.

3. You were running 90 octane. A bit low to work great with a tune.

4. You ran a frontpipe, catless downpipe and blow off valve. No pro custom tune.

5. You changed the spark plug gap.

6. You live in a hot, tropical climate.


I know you said the issue was Honda using weak connecting rods and the tune, but if you look at that list, there were other factors at play here too to be fair.

Thank you for posting that update. It helps the community.

 

[Mortax]

Vehicle: 2018 Honda Civic Sport manual transmission FK7

Total tuned time: 13 month

Total tuned mileage: 15500+ miles (car has 31000)

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner V2

Tunes used: Ktuner Stage 1, Ktuner Starter (Beta and non-Beta)

Fuel used: 91 octane

Additional engine mods: Intercooler, downpipe(Catted), frontpipe, RMM (was removed 3 days ago), CAI

Problems/issues: Jerkiness in 1-2 gears with all BETA Ktuner maps. WIll try to fix it now with Phearable tune.

Driving style: Driving mainly on the highway,90% commuting 10% pulling hard. 1 track day, and a few enthusiastic car trips.

Tuning experience notes: The car is fun to drive and really feels powerful. The jerkiness in low gears sometimes made me go crazy. The RMM mostly fixed this issue together with soft padding, but after I added the downpipe the NVH was unbearable and I removed the RMM. Hope to get it fixed now with Phearable custom etune.
Changing oil each 7000-5000 KM and using mostly Motul full synthetic 5w30 oil.

 

[Civics4Ever]

Watch your connecting rods, i ve got
My ConRod bent in cylinder 1, with my 18 Psi KTuner custom tune.
First time was there is small rattle noises at 1500-1800 RPM. Until my car sucks water in flood ( mbecause my cold air intake at under left front fender) then it became worse. But I was graceful it force me to realize there was a bent ConRods (since up boost Psi) by opening the cylinder Block and replace all 4 of ConRods to aftermarket. You will see how bad Honda put the material inside the ConRods. And Now, abrakadabra, there are no rattle & no knock retard, even better.
My advice is : Replace all of ConRods with the strongfull 4’s.

All things factored in, that was a disaster waiting to happen.