The Tuned CivicX Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models)

[Jawnothing]

Vehicle: 2020 Civic Si

Total tuned time: 9 Months

Tuned miles driven: 10,xxx

Tuning device(s) used: Ktuner v1.2

Tunes used: Phearable 1.5

Fuel used: 91

Additional related mods: Invidia Gemini R400

Problems/issues: None

Driving style: A bit more aggressive than Grandma on my commute to work, Spirited driving at night when I'm alone on a back road

Tune experience notes: It feels like stock with a good quality of life upgrade. This is my first experience tuning a vehicle, so I still have worries about my clutch slipping. I do drive it how it is recommended to drive our cars (no flooring under 3k, always downshifting to pass).

I have noticed that when I let off throttle and then get back on it, I feel a sensation as if the nose dips and the car pulls back just a bit, and then it goes. I'm not sure if that's something I can tweak out with the throttle padding settings (I don't remember what I had set it at), or if it's an actual issue. Either way, that is the only "issue" I noticed. It's been a great ~10k miles.

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[gtman]

Probably some trial and error with the throttle response and throttle padding settings might help. I'm assuming you have rev hang off.

Thanks for adding your Si. You're tuned car #996 in the thread.

 

[IonEX-T]

Vehicle: 2017 Civic EX-T

Total tuned time: 3 Months

Tuned miles driven: 5000km/3125miles

Tuning device(s) used: Ktuner V2

Tunes used: Custom tune by DRob

Fuel used: 91 oct

Additional related mods: W1 turbo, PRL catted downpipe, Agency intercooler, K&N intake, motor swap x2, trans swap

Problems/issues: There's many lol

-P0088 Code: I only really get this code when it is colder out but its from maxing out my fuel pump which I am kind of surprised is happening because I am only on 91 oct and 24psi boost and this didn't happen on my old motor where I was using 95 and 27psi. Maybe the fuel pump on this motor is weaker.

-Leaky Head Gasket: Both of the motor I swapped in had leaky head gaskets this one being much worse with it drinking sometimes liters a day and would have knock counts on cold start. Without the ktuner V2 and being able to track ECT I would have certainly overheated. I did fix this issue with head gasket sealer and it instantly fixed the knock on cold starts and the leak itself, though it might only be temporary.

-Elevated Knock: This motor seems too rack up a lot more knock counts than previous motors, especially when it is hot out. On a hot day it is not uncommon to see 30-70 knocks on a 15 minute drive. Its seems to be aggravated whenever engaging or disengaging. Could be a tuning issue

-Almost Stalling: This has only happened once and that was yesterday. When I would go from R to P rpms would drop to 550-650 and you could feel it almost stall.

-Strange Noises: Sometimes while idling or steady state driving with AC on it will make a high pitch whistling/squealing sound, I've never heard anything like it before and it is not a belt.

Driving style: Economical on commutes but spirited on weekends

Tuning experience notes: I think this motor could benefit with a few revisions and maybe fix or identify some problems within.

 

[rwk226]

Update 18

Total Tuned Miles: 21,500 (51,500miles on odometer)

Total Tuned Time: 13 months

Tunes Used: Phearable 1.5R w/ Race MAF scaling.

Fuel Used: 93 Octane, Marathon or Shell.

Related Mods: PRL Race MAF SRI, Muffler and Resonator Deletes.

Problems/issues: None.

Experience notes: A SRI is NOT recommended to be run in such hot weather, such as the heatwave we are experiencing in Mississippi. 88f at 8pm at night... and the car notices. Car heat soaks rather quickly when driven aggressive. Aside from that, I am still getting expected MPG considering my driving habits, but of course I am trying my best to control my right foot and save some MPGs since gas prices steadily rise. $5.50 for 93 octane here, and it's only getting more expensive.

In other news, I finally decided on wheels and tires for the Civic! Got my Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06+ 235/40ZR18 tires in today, and later this week I expect my AVID1 AV20 18x8 +35mm wheels to arrive. I've estimated I'll be saving at minimum 10lb a corner with my newer wheels and tires, for a total of 40lb savings. I am excited to see what differences there may be to MPG and acceleration, not to mention just general driving.

Update 19

Total Tuned Miles: 22,600 (52,600miles on odometer)

Total Tuned Time: 14 months

Tunes Used: Phearable 1.5R w/ Race MAF scaling.

Fuel Used: 93 Octane, Marathon or Shell.

Related Mods: PRL Race MAF SRI intake, Muffler and Resonator Deletes.

Problems/issues: After some mildly spirited driving yesterday, I was sitting with the car idling, AC running half power, when I had every single Check light come on. Engine, Emissions, Transmission, ABS, VSA, etc. all suddenly came on, almost like I was reflashing the ECU. I cut the car off, let the ECU shut down, then crank the car again. The error that remained was an "Emissions" warning, and my first thought was my catalytic converter was failing, which wasn't an issue to me. Well, I ran the Ktuner error code checker, and 5 error codes came up. Module "Evap" was in red, codes were: U0131, U0155, U0151, U0101, and U0122. All but U0122 come up as "unknown", with U0122 reading "VSA Module Communication Error". By this point I was incredibly confused, and so I drove across the street to an Autozone and had them run their diagnostics tool, and what they came up with was, U0155 "Auto AC Sub Display lost communication with gauge control module" with secondary codes being U0101 "Lost Communication with TCM" and U0100 ""F-CAN Malfunction (2nd PCM)". Civic sounded fine, drove fine - had no choice but to at least try to drive home, as it was an hour from where I live. However, I still have the Emissions system error as of this morning. Any and ALL advice is greatly appreciated here, this is not a realm I am familiar with.

Experience notes: Purchased the PRL Cobra conversion kit for my Short Ram Intake (which should've arrived yesterday but is running late), and I bought an AmericanMuscle mesh grille for more airflow. Rather worried about this situation from yesterday, hoping that nothing is wrong here...

 

[gtman]

rwk - here's the only similar thing I could find:

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/new-battery.75043/

 

[rwk226]

rwk - here's the only similar thing I could find:

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/new-battery.75043/

From reading this, I wonder if this isn't what happened with me here. Voltage dropped too low, some CANBUS data went corrupt, and sent everything haywire. Makes me wonder if I need a new alternator, as the car was simply idling with volume almost inaudible, AC set below half way. Thanks for finding that gtman

 

[Civics4Ever]

Update 19

Total Tuned Miles: 22,600 (52,600miles on odometer)

Total Tuned Time: 14 months

Tunes Used: Phearable 1.5R w/ Race MAF scaling.

Fuel Used: 93 Octane, Marathon or Shell.

Related Mods: PRL Race MAF SRI intake, Muffler and Resonator Deletes.

Problems/issues: After some mildly spirited driving yesterday, I was sitting with the car idling, AC running half power, when I had every single Check light come on. Engine, Emissions, Transmission, ABS, VSA, etc. all suddenly came on, almost like I was reflashing the ECU. I cut the car off, let the ECU shut down, then crank the car again. The error that remained was an "Emissions" warning, and my first thought was my catalytic converter was failing, which wasn't an issue to me. Well, I ran the Ktuner error code checker, and 5 error codes came up. Module "Evap" was in red, codes were: U0131, U0155, U0151, U0101, and U0122. All but U0122 come up as "unknown", with U0122 reading "VSA Module Communication Error". By this point I was incredibly confused, and so I drove across the street to an Autozone and had them run their diagnostics tool, and what they came up with was, U0155 "Auto AC Sub Display lost communication with gauge control module" with secondary codes being U0101 "Lost Communication with TCM" and U0100 ""F-CAN Malfunction (2nd PCM)". Civic sounded fine, drove fine - had no choice but to at least try to drive home, as it was an hour from where I live. However, I still have the Emissions system error as of this morning. Any and ALL advice is greatly appreciated here, this is not a realm I am familiar with.

Experience notes: Purchased the PRL Cobra conversion kit for my Short Ram Intake (which should've arrived yesterday but is running late), and I bought an AmericanMuscle mesh grille for more airflow. Rather worried about this situation from yesterday, hoping that nothing is wrong here...

I would try reflashing the tune

 

[gtman]

A couple things.

#1 Maybe this will be the week we hit 1,000 cars. We are only 4 away.

#2 I've seen quite a few people recently posting tune updates in other threads but have forgotten to add a new post here so I can update stats.

 

[jtrader]

Vehicle: 2019 Sport Hatch 6MT currently with 55k miles on odometer

Total tuned time: Roughly 1.5 years

Tuned miles driven: Roughly 20,000

Tuning device(s) used: Hondata

Tunes used: +3 basemap for 17k miles... now +6 basemap for last 3k miles (Experimented with +9 but throttle response was an absolute mess...so dialed it back to +6 which is a nice happy medium)

Fuel used: 93 Top Tier

Additional related mods: Competition Clutch Stage 2 (previous owner installed...I'm not a fan, but I'm too cheap to replace it) It's definitely overkill for a +6.

Problems/issues: None, although it took me much experimenting to dial in an acceptable level of throttle response/sensitivity.

Driving style: Moderately aggressive, but no tracking, no street racing, no hard launches. Just like to have fun commuting to work. And I love the passing power the +6 tune provides.

Tune experience notes: Previous owner ran the hondata +3 mainly to unlock the rev hang feature. While I felt the +3 tune was good, the +6 is even better. And with an upgraded clutch, I really wanted to like the +9 but it just wasn't a pleasant experience. Way too jerky.

 

[gtman]

Thanks for adding your car to the thread.

Three more cars til the magic 1,000 car milestone.

 

[jtrader]

Thanks for adding your car to the thread.

Three more cars til the magic 1,000 car milestone.

My pleasure. When I saw how close we were, I will admit I paused b/c I kinda wanted to be 1000… but that’s pretty selfish thinking. If everyone thought that way we would never get there.

 

[K.Gonzales]

New to the forum. Never too late! I hope someone here can help me with an intermittent issue that I’ve been dealing with. Could even be the trickiest and hardest issue to diagnose.


Vehicle: 2016 Civic Touring

Total tuned time: 15 months

Tuned miles driven: 18 641 miles

Tuning device(s) used: Ktuner V1.2

Tunes used: Ktuner Stage 2, TSP stage 1 RACE non si, & Phearable stage 1.5 RACE non si (current)

Fuel used: Petro Canada 94

Additional related mods: PRL RACE MAF short ram intake, RV6 Catted DP & FP combo

Problems/issues: I made a thread explaining everything that happened, but I will make a summary here. I’ve been dealing with this issue for 5 months now, all started with a limp mode while going hard (80% throttle) on TSP race MAP3. Then in about a few weeks, I started feeling my car jerking, I thought it was just the wind hitting the front repeatedly because it didn’t feel prominent, 2 weeks later, it got prominent, it would jerk severely. Flashed back to stock, replaced plugs, issue went away. Installed RV6 catted DP FP, put back the TSP tune, two weeks later, issue came back again. Got new plugs (this time gapped down to 0.025) car was normal for a month, then it started jerking again. Even the shop foreman is confused. Been 5 months and still no CEL! I would always plug in my v1.2, look at my laptop, do a cold start and it would always misfire on one cylinder, put more throttle, and the misfire count in a cylinder would go to hundreds. If I keep doing it, the car would limp mode. I ran the car on stock tune for 2 weeks and it never jerked, the issue never showed. Last Saturday I put back my intake and put Phearable tune, the issue went back again in 2 days. On stock tune, it’s a completely normal 10th gen Civic Touring. Rough cold starts in the morning! And it would only jerk when the engine is not warmed up, once warmed up, everything becomes completely normal like nothing ever happened. Crazy.

Driving style: Heavy footed but not always WOT, WOT sometimes, I recently just blocked my TPS to 90% so that it doesn’t fake shift and I can’t WOT anymore. Chill driver sometimes when not feeling it. So I guess mix driving style.

Tune Experience Notes: Stage 2 Ktuner was fun around town, jumpy, aggressive, but weak top end. TSP & Phearable top end beast also mid and low gains are great.

 

[gtman]

Thanks for adding your car.

100% it's not the TSP or Phearable OTS tunes. I'd like to see a datalog (.kdlg in a zip file). What CELs were you throwing?

I also think your spark plug gap is a bit small for a non-Si OTS tune and why would you "block your TPS to 90%"?

 

[K.Gonzales]

Thanks for adding your car.

100% it's not the TSP or Phearable OTS tunes. I'd like to see a datalog (.kdlg in a zip file). What CELs were you throwing?

I also think your spark plug gap is a bit small for a non-Si OTS tune and why would you "block your TPS to 90%"?

Thanks for adding your car.

100% it's not the TSP or Phearable OTS tunes. I'd like to see a datalog (.kdlg in a zip file). What CELs were you throwing?

I also think your spark plug gap is a bit small for a non-Si OTS tune and why would you "block your TPS to 90%"?

I will try to datalog tomorrow morning, dumb question but what exactly is .kdlg? How will I datalog on this format? I don’t have tunerview, only laptop and my v1.2. I usually just click record on my Ktuner windows app.

Also I blocked my TPS at 90% because I didn’t like the fake shift at WOT, it feels slower, with 90% blocked, the RPM will stay at 5500 and not fake shift, I want to slightly adjust it a bit higher maybe 95% so I could get my RPM to almost redline and not fake shift for maximum acceleration, keeping and holding boost I believe. I read PRL recommended to gap the plugs down to 0.025 for non si when running 23+ psi of boost and above. I never got any CEL, which is why I struggle.

 

[gtman]

I'm pretty sure PRL mentioned the "0.026 - 0.028" range in their "Let's Talk Spark Plugs" thread for a non-Si OTS tune running 23 or so psi.

.kdlg is the native KTuner datalog format.

Just start and stop the log from your laptop from the KTuner app. Make sure you save it to your laptop as the standard .kdlg not the optional spreadsheet file.

Then put the file into a .zip and upload it here.

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