The Tuned CivicX Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models)

charleswrivers

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I do the same. This was my first turbo and I got the advice from my nephew actually.

Here's a good explanation I found online as well:
It was a necessity before the turbos also had coolant lines hooked up that continues to circulate water after the engine is off. Now a days I don’t really think about it... and I poke along for 15-30 seconds anyway into any parking lot/my neighborhood before I shut the car off so I would have met the old intent anyways. The oldest turboZ I ever had was a ‘86. The original ‘84s has no water cooling and would coke up. ‘85 they added water cooling... though the little hood scoop to assist in cooling stuck around that year and was gone for the rest of the ‘86-89 run. I’ve not heard of any modern car manufacturers w/o coolant going to their turbos. I think the last holdouts ended early/mid-00s.

This piece of Garrett’s page is years old but discusses it and how it works despite the water pump not operating when the car shut down. There were a few males that actually had an electric auxiliary pump that’d run after the car shut off to feed to the turbo, but the thermal driving head is plenty to make enough of a trickle to flow to do the job if the lines are setup properly. Fun/Boring fact: we use the same principles in the for modern nuclear reactor designs to get flow through a reactor w/o the use of pumps. It works like a champ, if it’s designed that way.

https://www.garrettmotion.com/racin...-a-turbocharger/water-cooling-for-your-turbo/
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Fk7_412

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Vehicle: 2018 Honda Civic Sport hatchback 6sp / 1.5t

Total tuned time: 4 months

Total tuned mileage: 5,000+ miles [52k total miles]

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner V2

Tunes used: TSP Stage 1 for non-Si (current), map 1 for strictly highway cruise control with eco engaged, and all other times map 3 for actual driving even when babying the car.

Fuel used: Sheetz and or Speedway 93

Additional engine mods: Rv6 Silver Ceramic Catted Downpipe / 27won Intake / Borla Type-S catback

Problems/issues: None

Driving style: Slightly speedy with aggressive bursts from time to time on highway.
Cruise Control 75-80 on map 1 tsp tune with eco on. If manually driving will be map 3.
Once a month full out Roll Races with traction off but normally just spirited backroad map 3 roll on the boost going for smooth driving/cruising.

Tuning experience notes: Daily beater, so she sees over 20k miles a year. Just hit 52k today. Hardest I ever pushed car to note was this weekend racing against a 13 Focus ST, roll racing on highway to backroad romping full out traction off and abs breaking. These cars run hot so I ordered a FMIC to help improve cooling and stay more consistent.
 

metzb1

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Vehicle: 2017 Civic Si

Total tuned time: 28 months

Total tuned mileage: 20,000 miles

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner V2

Tunes used: Vit Stage 1, 2-step

Additional engine mods: .Mishimoto oil separator, PRL Cobra street CAI

Problems/issues: None. Clutch still grips, no reliability problems or issues since tune or before.

Driving style: Spirited, occasional FT runs.
 
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gtman

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Just a friendly reminder to those of you on the fence about contributing a tuning survey...

Please add your survey. It helps everybody. The more knowledge about 10th gen tuning we can gather, the better.

Tuned Type R, Si, 1.5T non-Si and 2.0NA


Thanks to those who have already contributed and thanks in advance to those adding their surveys soon.
 
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MoTeC R

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Vehicle: 2019 Civic Type R

Total tuned time: 8 months

Total tuned mileage: 3800 miles

Tuning device(s) used: originally KTuner on Now Hondata Flashpro with Hondata Fuel Upgrade System.

Tunes used: KTuner - canned tune and CAI from dealer 8 miles, then Hondata at 2800 miles.

Fuel used: E85 (71-83 content depending on station and mix)

Additional engine mods: PRL full bolt on with Borla Catback. PRL flex fuel kit, PRL Intercooler and charge pipes. Mishimoto overflow tank and oil catch can.

Problems/issues: None

Driving style: Almost always driving in +R. Cruising with slight speed with aggressive bursts, Very hard rolls to 150-160s. Don’t dump clutch rev up 1st them hammer in second. Running stock clutch over chattery Clutch Masters 400. Stock Clutch runs fine never had a grind or a lockout. If you want to upgrade the clutch you will need a built engine and a twin disc. No reason to swap type R clutch unless you abuse it until your motor is fully built.

Tuning experience notes: Custom Dyno dual tune 93 Octane or any mix I run straight E85 on 25PSI. Advanced timing and high torque. Prepare to be at the pump a lot running straight E85 it burns 30% faster I have yet to check MPG. E85 is only like $1.80 a gallon compared to $2.90-$3.00 here so really spending less on fuel just fuel a lot more frequently. It's still very convenient that if I am traveling away and a station without E85 I can still use pump 93 and continue on with less power. It's an expensive but convenient method for a lot of power with convenience of fuel options vs mixing etc.

More plans after the PRL P600 is announced in detail.

Honda Civic 10th gen The Tuned CivicX Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models) F4B60EE6-A98F-49FA-98FF-675A28EA1297


Honda Civic 10th gen The Tuned CivicX Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models) 10DDD6C3-E8D7-4E5E-ADC9-D73EA11BDD33


Honda Civic 10th gen The Tuned CivicX Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models) 109B5E89-2261-48C9-9CE8-14D9BA38F2D0
 
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gtman

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Thanks for the survey. We don't have a lot of Type R surveys yet, but they really help add to the overall picture of 10th gen tuning.
 

GDome

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Vehicle: 2017 Civic LX Hatchback CVT (Canadian)

Total tuned time: 2 months

Total tuned mileage: 2,000km

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner V1.2

Tunes used: Ktuner Starter 21

Fuel used: 91

Additional engine mods: PRL Stage 1 Intake

Problems/issues: None

Driving style: Conservative/Moderate

Tuning experience notes: Even on the first day with the ktuner, just trying out stage 0 made a huge difference with respect to the turbo lag and the CVT lag from full stop. The 21psi basemap makes highway driving a lot better and I feel like I have a lot more passing power. Fuel mileage wise, don't think theres a large difference, mostly related to how much more often you want to push the car.
 
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gtman

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Appreciate you posting up a survey. You touched on something that is really important. I know that most people like to talk about tuning and ultimate power but tuning is also a great tool for improving driveability.

The 10th gen Civics are great right from the factory. But a tweak of the throttle response or better part throttle turbo response or rev hang removal or faster ramp instantly takes driveability to a better place. It isn't always the about max power and high psi.

That's what's so great about tuning. It isn't one size fits all. You can tune conservatively for reliability or go super aggressive depending on your goals.
 

GDome

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Appreciate you posting up a survey. You touched on something that is really important. I know that most people like to talk about tuning and ultimate power but tuning is also a great tool for improving driveability.

The 10th gen Civics are great right from the factory. But a tweak of the throttle response or better part throttle turbo response or rev hang removal or faster ramp instantly takes driveability to a better place. It isn't always the about max power and high psi.

That's what's so great about tuning. It isn't one size fits all. You can tune conservatively for reliability or go super aggressive depending on your goals.
For sure. It's fun to hit higher PSI and accelerate a lot faster but I actually have to say I enjoy the fact that it's just a lot more drivable (not that it was bad to begin with).
 

Chuckles4

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Hey All,

Should my takeaway from this thread so far be that relatively minor tuning (e.g. KTuner stage 1) likely has a negligible impact on reliability? The only other turbo I've had tuned was an '05 Audi A4 1.8T using APR, and I had to replace the clutch within about a year. That said, I bought the car at 69,000 so I have no way of attributing the clutch destruction with the tune.

Ultimately, what I'd like to hear is that I can tune my 2020 Si to ~240 hp and similar torque without materially harming reliability. Too much to ask?
 


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gtman

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Full bolt-ons in combination with tuning for far too much power are the main culprits in most failures.

IMO though, your 240 number is realistic for a daily driver Si.

I feel like folks who's main tuning goal is producing super high dyno numbers are most likely to have reliability issues with our cars. Honda did build some headroom into our drivetrains but these are still basically econoboxes.

Just my take though.

On another subject... Guys, don't be shy about adding your tuning survey so we can keep building up the 10th gen tuning reliability info.:thumbsup:
 
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dathoneycomb

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Vehicle: 2019 Civic Si FC3

Total tuned time: 4 months

Total tuned mileage: less than 1,000 miles (currently working from home, no commute). 9.7k miles on the car currently.

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner V2

Tunes used: TSP stage 1, but recently got Phearable and stopped using TSP. I'm usually on map 2 or 3, but Sport mode probably only 1/3 of the time.

Fuel used: Mostly 93. 91 at minimum.

Additional engine mods: Stock except for PRL Cobra CAI (street). Will be installing MAPerformance catback street exhaust soon, but no current plans to do front pipe / down pipe.

Problems/issues: One issue, related to rev hang disable I think. A little bit of a stutter: RPMs fluctuate briefly when coming off throttle, which is a minor annoyance. Does not seem to be apparent with rev hang on. Might just enable rev hang again rather than live with it.

Driving style: Pretty conservative most of the time. Spirited driving on occasion and usually on on-ramps or while passing...

Tuning experience notes: I've been mostly hands off once the tune was installed. I don't have any real concerns that I'm monitoring, like ECU temp or knock control. I just wanted to get the most performance out of the car I reasonably could. Set it and forget it.
 
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gtman

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Tuning experience notes: I've been mostly hands off once the tune was installed. I don't have any real concerns that I'm monitoring, like ECU temp or knock control. I just wanted to get the most performance out of the car I reasonably could. Set it and forget it.
There's nothing wrong with set it and forget it. Pretty much how I've always done it:

1. Upload a new tune and check to make sure all parameters look good.
2. Remove the tuner unit from the car and just drive and enjoy the better driveability.
3. Reconnect the tuner unit to do occasional "pop quiz" checks on fuels trims and knock control.
 

dathoneycomb

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Does disconnecting the tuner force it into map 1?
 

86salmon

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Does disconnecting the tuner force it into map 1?
Without the tuner, at start up, it will revert to map 1


Edit: I first thought your name read DARTHhoneycomb
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