The Oil Thread

[Civics4Ever]

There's fuel dilution. It has already been talked about in other threads. The amount accumulated in the oil is minimal. A lot of you think and worry too much about it.

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[CivicChina]

I am not really worried as my car shows very little increase in the oil level and i am close to the next service. Honda declared that the oil can reach 30mm over max without damage, mine is only 4mm over and so are most of the other dipsticks that i have seen on local groups.

 

[Design]

Even those showing higher fuel dilution are maintaining proper viscosity. So it may not be as big of an issue as we think. Regardless, probably good to run an occasional UOA if planning to keep long term.

 

[das borgen]

there's little to no correlation for synthetic oil being bad and "looking black and gross", unless of course it's all burnt and coked

 

[Woodydog]

Do you still have the extra quart in? If so that's not good. It takes 3.7 qt you might be ok with 4 qt but any more and I'd drain some out.

 

[planedoc]

I agree that they're not that bad - even at 20K. IMHO, it's worth continuing to monitor the accumulation around the seals. If they encroach that area then I imagine we may start noticing performance/efficiency losses. If deposits were making their way down to the piston walls, I might be a little more concerned.

My take: keep an eye on fuel economy and open a case through Honda if you notice irregular behaviour at idle or partial throttle.

Edit: just realized this was for the Accord. We have quite a few of the 2.4s running over 120K with no major drivability issues. Not trying to marginalize the issue - just that Honda may have accounted for this in testing.

Thanks for your input, I know you are just trying to help. But I really just don’t want to deal with GDI anymore. I just ordered a new F150 5.0, and will sell the Honda in a couple months when it arrives.
Yes, the Ford also has GDI, but Ford does it right. It also has port injection that runs all the time. Just to keep the valves clean. So you get the benefits of both. 12:1 compression on 87 octane. 400hp from 5.0l N/A. No turbos. Even though I know it won’t be near as much fun to drive, I really think it will be more my cup of tea.

 

[Civics4Ever]

Thanks for your input, I know you are just trying to help. But I really just don’t want to deal with GDI anymore. I just ordered a new F150 5.0, and will sell the Honda in a couple months when it arrives.
Yes, the Ford also has GDI, but Ford does it right. It also has port injection that runs all the time. Just to keep the valves clean. So you get the benefits of both. 12:1 compression on 87 octane. 400hp from 5.0l N/A. No turbos. Even though I know it won’t be near as much fun to drive, I really think it will be more my cup of tea.

Good luck man. I find it strange to go from a car to a pickup truck as a DD, I could never drive one as a DD. But to each his own.

 

[Andre80]

hi, I'm sorry for my bad english

I have a 1.5+ civic sport, I live in northern Italy near Venice and I followed this forum for a while, especially the oil dilution, I write to share what I was looking for

Our manual says:

on page 644 is written

Reduction of consumption and reduction of CO2 emissions

'' Use engine oil with the viscosity recommended by the API certification seal. ''
• Maintain the specified tire pressure.
• Do not overload the vehicle.
• Keep the vehicle clean. An accumulation of snow or mud on the vehicle's underbody
involves weight gain and increased wind resistance.

Further on the page with the diagrams

In European models there is no mention of API but only of ACEA
In the African models it is mentioned "Service API classified oil SM or superior quality"

In your American manual only the first quality bees and 0w20 are mentioned

In the Italian manual on page 785 we read:

recommended engine oil

European models
Original Honda engine oil
ACEA A3 / B3, A5 / B5 or superior quality
0W-20
If using 0W-20, it is necessary to use "Honda 2.0 engine oil".

South African models
Original Honda engine oil
ACEA A3 / B3, A5 / B5, API service SM or
top grade 0W-20 * 3, 0W-30, 5W-30,
10W-30

Models other countries
Original Honda engine oil
Service API SM or superior quality 0W-20,
0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30

a question that I ask myself is what has this special 0w20 type 2.0 compared to the other 0w20 honda to specify clearly that if you use 0w20 you need the type 2 version, nowhere do I find a data sheet of this oil, maybe it has high concentrations of molybdenum?

That said, my dealership at the oil change would have put me 0w40 or 0w30 HONDA
If I want the 0w20 put me HONDA certified castrol API SM but without ACEA and does not have 0w20 type 2.0 at home, few follow what the manual says to the letter, in fact they tell me that it is better than 0w30 for our climate

In some European online stores there are photos of the honda type 2.0 package but they also say that it is the castrol, this I do not know how true it is, in any case the type 2.0 is very difficult to find, almost all the stores are in the UK

Mobil 1 on the Italian website recommends 0w30 with ACEA certification, but if I look for the American version, I recommend the 0w20 without ACEA certification

In Europe we are stricter on US pollution standards

I'm starting to believe that API SM certification is really enough and we're having too many problems about which oil to put, because dealers fit what they have and we'll never really know what they put. But you do not have to mix the certifications because they have different characteristics

Another thing I saw on your forum, many of you have put Amsoil SS 0w20 but has an A1 specification, specifies that from many guides it is stated clearly that it should only be included in the recommended and not recommended engines where the A5 specification is recommended like in our engine. In the manual the ACEA certification starts from A3 and not from A1
is in Italian but I put the link very interesting, I think there is somewhere in the English version
http://elabora.metaloil.com/public/1/Immagini_Notizie/lubrificanti_specifiche_motul.pdf



let me know if you do not understand something

 

[Snoopyslr]

I just wanted to let people in here know I'm gathering all the analysis I see posted and compiling them in one thread that will be pinned and NOT open to discussion. I've scanned through this thread and found a few that I converted to PDF and uploaded to the new thread. If there are ever any more samples, PM me a PDF format of them and I will add them.

https://www.civicx.com/threads/oil-analysis-database.21607/#post-364703

I've added the analysis I found in this thread from the contributors below. Thank you for your contribution.
@parshisa , @NorthernEX-T , @chriswcalif @josby

 

[nxt3]

So what oil is recommended? I'm due for an oil change soon and if there is something better than what Honda will put in my car--I'll buy it.

 

[jaydan1020]

Am

So what oil is recommended? I'm due for an oil change soon and if there is something better than what Honda will put in my car--I'll buy it.

Amsoil is always a good choice.

Cjsynthetic.myamsoil.com

 

[nxt3]

Am


Amsoil is always a good choice.

Cjsynthetic.myamsoil.com

but which one?

 

[parshisa]

0w20,5w20, 0w30,5w30,10w30. All are a great choice

 

[jaydan1020]

but which one?

Depends on how long you want your drain intervals to be. Also depends on how much you want to spend lol.

I use Signature Series 0w-20 in my 2017 Si.

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