The Oil Thread

Civics4Ever

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I'm not wealthy I can barely afford my car and house payment. Even so, I change the filter every time. $6-9 bucks extra I can afford. Never understood why you wouldn't. It has dirty oil, not much but dirty. To me, it's not wasting money. I know others think different. But they're wrong. :)
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I'm not wealthy I can barely afford my car and house payment. Even so, I change the filter every time. $6-9 bucks extra I can afford. Never understood why you wouldn't. It has dirty oil, not much but dirty. To me, it's not wasting money. I know others think different. But they're wrong. :)
Honda engineers say it's okay to run the filter through two change cycles but "they're wrong." Rock on! :headbang:
 
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I'm not wealthy I can barely afford my car and house payment. Even so, I change the filter every time. $6-9 bucks extra I can afford. Never understood why you wouldn't. It has dirty oil, not much but dirty. To me, it's not wasting money. I know others think different. But they're wrong. :)
I disagree to an extent. The standard schedule should be fine for a typical owner.

I won't fault anyone for changing more often. But the same holds true otherwise.
 

Civics4Ever

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I disagree to an extent. The standard schedule should be fine for a typical owner.

I won't fault anyone for changing more often. But the same holds true otherwise.
Was meant as sarcasm, hence the smiley face. It really boils down to whatever each owner is comfortable with. Neither is wrong when your talking about piece of mind.
 

planedoc

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I'm not wealthy I can barely afford my car and house payment. Even so, I change the filter every time. $6-9 bucks extra I can afford. Never understood why you wouldn't. It has dirty oil, not much but dirty. To me, it's not wasting money. I know others think different. But they're wrong. :)
Well said amigo
 


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planedoc what do you think about Pennzoil platinum? Have you read anything about it?
 

planedoc

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planedoc what do you think about Pennzoil platinum? Have you read anything about it?
It is group 3 hydrocracked dino-oil. Just like most of the other oils on the market falsely marketed as synthetic. I wish the API would step in and force the oil companies to clearly differentiate between real group 4 and 5 true synthetic oils, and the highly refined and hydro-cracked group 3 oils that are also labeled synthetic. Even though there are no man made synthetic base stock oils in them. If you are unfamiliar with the term hydro-cracked, it is the process that makes Dino-oil not sludge, just like true synthetic oils won’t. It is this non-sludging characteristic that group 3 oils share with group 4 PAO oils and group 5 ester based oils that allowed lawyers to successfully argue in court for the right to market Dino oil as synthetic, because it shares one characteristic with synthetic oils. A stoopid judge ruled they could. And ever since, most oil companies have been calling their group 3 oils synthetic. What Hydro-cracking is, taking the Dino oil, and heating it so hot it becomes a gas, like water turns to steam, and then injecting hydrogen molecules into the gas that bond with the oil’s carbon atoms. This prevents the carbon atoms later on, when it is now oil in your engine, from bonding with oxygen atoms, which is the process how oil turns to sludge. With this process, engines run on group 3 oil, (hydro cracked) will stay as clean inside as those run on real synthetic oils. BUT, they do not get all the other superior benefits of real synthetic oils, like ultra low pour points, ultra high flash points, exceptional viscosity stability and more. This is why real synthetics cost several dollars a quart more than group 3 oils. But is worth it! Does any of this help?
 

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It is group 3 hydrocracked dino-oil. Just like most of the other oils on the market falsely marketed as synthetic. I wish the API would step in and force the oil companies to clearly differentiate between real group 4 and 5 true synthetic oils, and the highly refined and hydro-cracked group 3 oils that are also labeled synthetic. Even though there are no man made synthetic base stock oils in them. If you are unfamiliar with the term hydro-cracked, it is the process that makes Dino-oil not sludge, just like true synthetic oils won’t. It is this non-sludging characteristic that group 3 oils share with group 4 PAO oils and group 5 ester based oils that allowed lawyers to successfully argue in court for the right to market Dino oil as synthetic, because it shares one characteristic with synthetic oils. A stoopid judge ruled they could. And ever since, most oil companies have been calling their group 3 oils synthetic. What Hydro-cracking is, taking the Dino oil, and heating it so hot it becomes a gas, like water turns to steam, and then injecting hydrogen molecules into the gas that bond with the oil’s carbon atoms. This prevents the carbon atoms later on, when it is now oil in your engine, from bonding with oxygen atoms, which is the process how oil turns to sludge. With this process, engines run on group 3 oil, (hydro cracked) will stay as clean inside as those run on real synthetic oils. BUT, they do not get all the other superior benefits of real synthetic oils, like ultra low pour points, ultra high flash points, exceptional viscosity stability and more. This is why real synthetics cost several dollars a quart more than group 3 oils. But is worth it! Does any of this help?
yes. I've read that Pennz Platinum is made be some completely new process. It's made from natural gas distilled into oil in some way.They claim it's absolutely clean and clear right from the start. Not sure how this would compare with regular hydro-cracked or group 4 syn. I guess I'll find out. Last change I switched from M1 to PP. I change mine every 5K miles, so I could probably use generic Walmart crap oil if I wanted.
 

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yes. I've read that Pennz Platinum is made be some completely new process. It's made from natural gas distilled into oil in some way.They claim it's absolutely clean and clear right from the start. Not sure how this would compare with regular hydro-cracked or group 4 syn. I guess I'll find out. Last change I switched from M1 to PP. I change mine every 5K miles, so I could probably use generic Walmart crap oil if I wanted.
Yes I have read about that GTL process, Gas to Liquid. And yes it is very clean. They can also make diesel fuel from it, that also burns ultra-clean. Don’t know why it hasn’t caught on better yet. Would love to hear about your results? I love others being my beta testers for me..... j/k
 
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PP was very highly regarded in the Mazda community. Very strong/consistent UOAs and noticeably reduced intake valve deposits (compared to those running dino).
 


planedoc

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PP was very highly regarded in the Mazda community. Very strong/consistent UOAs and noticeably reduced intake valve deposits (compared to those running dino).
Good to know. I just turned 20,000 miles so am going to borescope my intake valves to see how they are doing on Amsoil SS? Will let you all know when I do.
 

planedoc

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Nice... VERY interested in the results.
The results are in, and NOT very good news i'm afraid! Honda's Earth Dreams has become my nitemare! At 20,000 miles, using nothing but top tier fuel and amsoil SS 0W-20 oil, The intake ports and valves are all coked up with hard carbon deposits. Take a look at the pics I just took with my borescope inside my 2017 Accord 2.4L. I have sent the pics to my mechanic at the local Honda dealer, and he is going to see if Honda will pay to have them cleaned? If so, as soon as it is finished, will borescope again to see how much improvement their cleaning actually does? If the ports and valves really do clean up well, then I will put a catch can on it, and reinspect in another 20,000 miles. If not, will be trading it off for a NON direct injected vehicle. I am Not going to put up with this..... Thoughts anyone?
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Why should Honda pay for clean up? This is a drawback of DI engines. You just need to factor in periodic walnut blasting of the intake valves into the maintenance cost of the car. Why do you think using a super-duper expensive oil would prevent this?
 

planedoc

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Why should Honda pay for clean up? This is a drawback of DI engines. You just need to factor in periodic walnut blasting of the intake valves into the maintenance cost of the car. Why do you think using a super-duper expensive oil would prevent this?
Because it is oil vapors from the PCV system that are causing these deposits.
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