The Infamous 2nd Gear Crunch

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zeppelin2

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Their products are excellent for their intended purpose which many of u fail to use them as.
I don't think it's fair to assume that every gear grind has happened at redline. Most of mine have been at less than 5K RPM.

As for the track, how often are you actually shifting from first to second?
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hooger

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GM Synchromesh to the rescue! Changed the trans fluid to this stuff yesterday afternoon and noticed an immediate difference. Transmission definitely feels a lot better - shifts are smoother and the occasional notchy shifts don't feel as crappy as they did before.

But most importantly the 5 to 4 lockout is gone! Went for drive after changing the fluid and have gone on 2 more spirited drives yesterday and today and have yet to come close to getting a lockout. 4th feels a lot happier. I've only had one 2nd gear grind in 4500km so it hasn't really been an issue for me but 1-2 shifts feel a bit better too.

So all I've done is the CMC adjustment and switched to GM Sychromesh Friction Modified and have had good results. Still get the occasional notchy shift but the transmission is considerably better, it feels like it should have been like this from the factory.

By the way - for Canadians looking for GM Synchromesh Friction Modified, the part number is different than the US - its 10953509 - I picked some up from APC Parts.
 

dwag0588

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I don't think it's fair to assume that every gear grind has happened at redline. Most of mine have been at less than 5K RPM.

As for the track, how often are you actually shifting from first to second?
While I don’t agree with the condescending tone of his post, I think he has a point. My local SCCA has been running on stopwatch timing this year due to an equipment malfunction. This means no gates to cross to trigger timing, which means you must nail the launch to get the best time. I have been doing drag strip launches (18 of them so far) to try to claw back time. I typically short shift into second around 5k rpm because first is severely traction limited, but I haven’t had a single grind from 1-2 on any of these launches. Either they changed something on the 2020, or there is an element of user error involved. I should caution that I am an engineer and I have some mechanical sympathy, so I’m not Bryan O’Connor on every shift. I don’t force things.
 

zeppelin2

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I typically short shift into second around 5k rpm because first is severely traction limited, but I haven’t had a single grind from 1-2 on any of these launches.
Pretty much all of my grinds have happened with the steering wheel off-center (e.g. turning at an intersection or changing lanes) and/or with a loss of traction of the front wheels. I've seen this pattern repeated in other posts as well.

If you're going in a straight line and take care to maintain traction, the chances of you grinding second seem to be much lower.

Can those that have had recent grinds chime in as to whether this was the case?
 

TheCanadian

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2020 with about 7000 km here. My 4th gear lockout has essentially stopped. I did have something new happen when setting of from a start today. White stationary, I tried to put the car in second, but it would only go "halfway" when into gear, as if it wasn't fully engaged. I shifted to neutral and then tried 2nd again with the same result. Releasing the clutch heard some light gear meshing sounds - which I'm assuming was the syncros grinding.

I set of in 1st and then had no problem going to 2nd gear normally. No issues with shifting into 2nd from a high rpm 1st upshift either. I'm guessing something wasn't lined up when I tried to engage 2nd at a stop.
 


MisterC

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After almost 3 years and 57k I've started to wonder if stiffer mounts wouldn't make more difference than all the fluid changes. My grinds really only happen when I'm trying to hit 2nd and the car is in a buck or a pitch from acceleration.

It almost never happens to me anymore, but I've learned through feedback what the car doesn't like when it comes to going into 2nd.
 

Jwolf

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After almost 3 years and 57k I've started to wonder if stiffer mounts wouldn't make more difference than all the fluid changes. My grinds really only happen when I'm trying to hit 2nd and the car is in a buck or a pitch from acceleration.

It almost never happens to me anymore, but I've learned through feedback what the car doesn't like when it comes to going into 2nd.
I truly believe this would be majority of cases, people needing to learn the transmission in this car and adjust, but that's not to say it doesn't exist.

It's funny, I know MotoGP isn't the same or even relatively close to production cars, but Honda's MotoGP bike is considered impossible to ride properly by anyone besides Mark Marquez.. so I'm wondering if it's kind of a trick transmission in this car much like how the MotoGP bike is a trick bike.
 

d34lyfe

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So i want to chime in on this matter. I have a 2019 type r. This is my ninth sports car. My first was an S2000 that i bought new in 2002. I drive my cars hard under circuit use conditions. I do not drag race them from a stop or launch them hard. So to the point, there is nothing wrong with the gear box. After 5000 miles on mine and pushing it to redline constantly during track use i have NEVER had a gear grind. This gearbox is just like the one that was in my S2000. It is somewhat delicate but very precise. U must be a precise driver with it and not use untimely brute force to shift. This is hondas design style. Their products are excellent for their intended purpose which many of u fail to use them as.
I’d like to chime in also - I too have had many sporty cars - Honda’s and other sport cars including an integra, 8th gen civic Si, FRS, Mazda speed 3, type r, etc. I’ve also occasionally tracked my previous cars before the type R.

I don’t think it’s fair to assume that if your car is fine, so are all other cars from that model year - or in other words - all honda transmissions are built identically. These are mechanical components and small variations can cause issues on some cars and not others.

For example, the 8th gen Si was known to have 3rd gear pop out, however, I have never experienced anything but a buttery smooth transmission.

My 19 type R on the other hand is very finicky and notchy with 1st to 2nd gear and locks out 5th to 4th. The master cylinder adjustment helped temporarily but the problem returned within weeks.

During my next service, I’m going to ask Honda to replace the MTF with synchromesh as long as it doesn’t void any warranties. However, this looks like a legitimate issue with (some of) these transmissions.
 

TypeR604

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Really??? Stupid question(s) but was the OEM fluid you replaced MTF2 or MTF3? and another thing, did you happen to see if the fluid was under filled? was the fluid leveled correctly when replaced? Curious because I replaced my fluid due to finding out that it was under filled and haven't had a problem since and I have around 1850kms to date.
What's up guys?

I have questions about the Fk8 Type R transmission fluid, My 2018 R is currently sitting on 25,000km+ the fluid in my transmission is probably not even due to change yet, however I do daily drive my R a lot, I never track it and probably never will. I just want to know is it safe to say that it is okay to use OEM Honda MTF on my R? Will there be a problem if you pour in 3 quarts instead of 2.3? What if I only pour 2 quarts will I run into grinding issues?
 


BoostedDreams

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What's up guys?

I have questions about the Fk8 Type R transmission fluid, My 2018 R is currently sitting on 25,000km+ the fluid in my transmission is probably not even due to change yet, however I do daily drive my R a lot, I never track it and probably never will. I just want to know is it safe to say that it is okay to use OEM Honda MTF on my R? Will there be a problem if you pour in 3 quarts instead of 2.3? What if I only pour 2 quarts will I run into grinding issues?
That is the fluid that the manufacturer uses so yes, it is fine. I would definitely not short or try to over fill the transmission. There is a check bolt on the side that you should have open while someone is filling fluid from the top that will tell you when you are at the correct level.
Also, you should switch to ac delco modified synchromesh.
 

TypeR604

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That is the fluid that the manufacturer uses so yes, it is fine. I would definitely not short or try to over fill the transmission. There is a check bolt on the side that you should have open while someone is filling fluid from the top that will tell you when you are at the correct level.
Also, you should switch to ac delco modified synchromesh.
Thanks for the input @BoostedDreams I was thinking to use delco modified or Amsoil Synchromesh transmission fluid but none of the big known store/shops here in Vancouver, bc lower mainland sells them. I know I could order them online but I'm kinda leaning towards the OEM tranny fluid the fact it's easy to get at cost a lot less.
 

BoostedDreams

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Thanks for the input @BoostedDreams I was thinking to use delco modified or Amsoil Synchromesh transmission fluid but none of the big known store/shops here in Vancouver, bc lower mainland sells them. I know I could order them online but I'm kinda leaning towards the OEM tranny fluid the fact it's easy to get at cost a lot less.
I did order mine from Amazon. It is noticeably less notchy than the OEM version. We are talking about a high performance engine so I wouldn’t cheap out over an extra $30 or so.
my $.02
 

TypeR604

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When I probably decided to use and abuse my R I'll go down that route.
 

TypeRHelvetia

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Pretty much all of my grinds have happened with the steering wheel off-center (e.g. turning at an intersection or changing lanes) and/or with a loss of traction of the front wheels. I've seen this pattern repeated in other posts as well.

If you're going in a straight line and take care to maintain traction, the chances of you grinding second seem to be much lower.

Can those that have had recent grinds chime in as to whether this was the case?
This is the most accurate post I’ve seen regarding 1-2 crunch. Exactly my experience as well.
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