***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!***

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What led you to getting the greddy? I'm in the process of choosing my exhaust and i'm having a tough time. atm, i'm between the ARK dt-s, the GReddy ddr, and the AWE track from most to least wanted, respectively. I also will be getting the 27won catted dp so i'm accounting for rasp, and drone is another factor i'm taking into consideration.

The ddr seems to be a polarizing design, at least for me. The first pic just looks funky to me, but the fitment in the second pic is pure fire. Pretty much all of the dual tip exhausts have a spongebob-esque london gap look, at least in my eyes. Does it look better in person?
 
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What led you to getting the greddy? I'm in the process of choosing my exhaust and i'm having a tough time. atm, i'm between the ARK dt-s, the GReddy ddr, and the AWE track from most to least wanted, respectively. I also will be getting the 27won catted dp so i'm accounting for rasp, and drone is another factor i'm taking into consideration.

The ddr seems to be a polarizing design, at least for me. The first pic just looks funky to me, but the fitment in the second pic is pure fire. Pretty much all of the dual tip exhausts have a spongebob-esque london gap look, at least in my eyes. Does it look better in person?
Yeah, so, I watched Edge Autosport's video on YT where they compared a bunch of different exhausts, and I liked the deep, but not raspy, tone of the DDR. Plus, the shape and angling reminds me of an exhaust I used to have on my prior Si years ago. Overall, I totally love it! The sound is perfect, IMO. I only have that as a mod on my exhaust system, and I still get gurgles off-throttle. There is only a small amount of drone on-throttle around 3K RPMs, but it's pretty minimal, IMO. Otherwise, at any causing speed, it's super quiet on the inside. EVen small throttle changes during normal driving doesn't make everything super loud. It's just not that loud of an exhaust, but def not stock-sounding.

"...spongebob-esque London gap..." ?? IDK what that means. ?

How's this? I can take a shot of a different angle, if you'd like. JLMK.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** tempImageSO2lyT


Be warned that the DDR was not designed to work with a diffuser, so, see my prior posts to understand how I dealt with that issue.
 

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Yeah, so, I watched Edge Autosport's video on YT where they compared a bunch of different exhausts, and I liked the deep, but not raspy, tone of the DDR.

"...spongebob-esque London gap..." ?? IDK what that means. ?

How's this? I can take a shot of a different angle, if you'd like. JLMK.
I've watched that video probably a hundred times today comparing and weeding out th eones i dont like. The DDR and the ARK sound so similar, but the snob inside of me suggests that the ark is better because it's $400 more :dunno: just a gut feeling ig idk.
Also nobody really has videos of those exhausts paired with a catted dp, and i definitely don't want rasp. Sure, i wake up the neighborhood at 3am smacking the limiter, but at least i want people to be woken up to a gooooood sound, yk?

Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** 1638142719369

^ on some of the dual tip exhausts the tips coming out of the comically large cutout in the diffuser looks like spongebob's teeth. a la London gap. perhaps it's a generational culture difference

that's a bomb ass pic, as are all of your pictures of The Hotness. ?
 
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Doc_Mello

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I've watched that video probably a hundred times today comparing and weeding out th eones i dont like. The DDR and the ARK sound so similar, but the snob inside of me suggests that the ark is better because it's $400 more :dunno: just a gut feeling ig idk.
Also nobody really has videos of those exhausts paired with a catted dp, and i definitely don't want rasp. Sure, i wake up the neighborhood at 3am smacking the limiter, but at least i want people to be woken up to a gooooood sound, yk?

1638142719369.png

^ on some of the dual tip exhausts the tips coming out of the comically large cutout in the diffuser looks like spongebob's teeth. a la London gap. perhaps it's a generational culture difference

that's a bomb ass pic, as are all of your pictures of The Hotness. ?
Oooh, right, I see what you mean with the ARK exhaust. Personally, the design doesn’t do it for me.

Yeah, I see what you mean WRT to cost, but I’d be curious as to what $400 is buying me over Greddy. I feel on the rasp, though. I wanted zero rasp, and the DD-R delivered. I highly doubt a carried DP will add rasp. Rather, it’ll add pops and gurgles, I think.

Ah, got it. You mean a front teeth gap. You know, I never got that impression with the DDR. ??

Thanks! Hopefully, that gives you a better look at what the exhaust looks like.

Here are some sound clips using an iPhone 11.

Here is start-up from cold, with small revs to about 3K RPMs.


Here is a normal driving clip, phone face-up on the passenger seat. Not aggressive throttle, revving up to about 3-4K RPMs, cruising at 2.5K RPMs. I‘d say the sound in this clip is a bit more bassy than real life, but, otherwise, it’s pretty accurate.
 
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So, TH is pretty damn low, dropped about 2" from stock. It's always ? when driving because of road debris (ran over an open book laying in the middle of the road a while back, and while I'm pretty sure my splitter tore off a few pages, I'm positive there's a metaphor in there somewhere ??) and potholes. Usually, I'm pretty good about avoiding them, to the extent that my next rear window sticker will probably 'Not Drunk; Avoiding Potholes!', but I slammed, crouched, creaked! into one on the right front the other day while turning ?, which means the tire nailed the fender, bent the side marker inward a bit, and bent some of the inner fender lip downward upon the upward jounce.

In this pic, edited for lighting, you can see the lip edge of the fender pulled downward. I had to use the hard-rubber end of a hammer to bend that back into place to hold the inner fender lining.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1757

In this pic, you can see how the side marker is pushed inward a bit. I have Suma sequentially on order to replace these, but, damn!
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1758


And the rim/tire was fine, also. Overall, minimal damage, but, in light of that, and some upcoming winter traveling, I raised her up 1/2" all around. Much more clearance, no weird rubbing noises, and the right is a bit less harsh as well. ...and the stance is still legit. ?

Onward to another fix #CenterSpeakerRattle! We all know about / have the center speaker rattle, especially upon cold start-up, and for anyone with an upgraded RMM, it's even worse! So, tackled that today.

I found that pressing on the dash right next to the speaker grill corner closest to the driver stopped the rattle, which suggests that there are some components in that area babbling to one another upon start-up, and I want them to stop talking during class. ??

So, in this pic, you can see were I stuck a finger into the gap (?) between the dash and the vent tube, as evidenced by a lack of dust right under that corner.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1759


Now, after cleaning off the remainder of the dust, I used my handy NVH Damper System™️...
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1761


to stacked, then shove, two small strips into that exact area, pressing against both the underside of the dash (via a little molding fin hanging down) and the vent tube.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1760


Huzzah! No more dash rattle!

Do this! Do this now!


UPDATE: The above fix does not solve the issue. Since that attempt, I've tried 4-5 other attempts at fixing the notorious dash rattle. Now, on to yet another fix, I even test-drove the car to ensure it was silent. So far, so quiet!

Check here for the fix!
 
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Next up: a bit more work on the interior!

Now, I LOVE the matte real carbon steering wheel I've had for a minute now from Unity Performance, but the gloss black lower trim (between the silver) now just seems out of place (no pic because we all know what that looks like ?).

So, I ordered this real carbon overlay from eBay (because I don't think anyone make a real carbon direct replacement piece for the wheel):
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1830


Do you see the immediate issue here? The carbon on my steering wheel has a matte finish, while this one is glossy. So, I played around with some techniques to get a matte finish that would match the interior.

Here's a reference of the matte-ness of the steering wheel's carbon finish:
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1840 copy


First attempt: sanded with 2500-grit sandpaper. Roughed up the surface, but not nearly close to the milkiness of the wheel.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1831


Second attempt: Sanded with 1500-grit. Closer, but still not 'matte' enough. Getting there, though!
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1832


Here's a reference comparison of the overlay next to the wheel. Close, but still a bit too glossy.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1833


Here's a better pic w/ flash that shows how far away the overlay finish is to the wheel:
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1834


Third attempt: Sanded with 600-grit. Wow, far too matte, way beyond the wheel's finish.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1835


Plus, you can see the heavy scratches. Here's a better pic that shows the scratches:
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1836


Fourth attempt: sanded again with 1500-grit to bring the finish up more to match the wheel. Getting closer! (note: the finish isn't exactly uneven, with light and dark spots. Rather, that's a lighting effect of subtle reflection.)
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1837


...and reference next to the wheel:
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1838


Almost exact, but still not perfect yet. At this point, there were still some scratches that needed to be evened out.

So, roughed it up back up with 600-grit, but wet-sanded this time, then used some rubbing compound to buff it exactly to the sheen for which I was looking!

Here is the finished piece! Probably would've been easier to hit it with 1000-grit, but I didn't have any among all of my supplies, and I didn't want to go all the way to the hardware store just for 1000-grit. So, used what I had, and I think it came out great!
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1839


I was hoping that the weave direction of the overlay would match the wheel’s carbon weave, but I almost like the switchback even more because it delineates the parts. I tried to match the weave edges as much as possible within the leeway with which I had to work.


Thanks again to @Unity Performance for the cool wheel! Thus far, the interior is really shaping up!
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1840
 
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Okay, next: Getting my Fast & Furious underglow on! ?

Given the three-piece Aeroflow rear diffuser, I originally looked for a five-piece LED Underglow kit: front strip, 2x side strips, and 2x rear strips to be split amongst the two side diffuser strakes (the shape of the center diffuser section + the Greddy DD-R exhaust makes a one-piece rear strip impossible). BUT, while I couldn't find a five-piece kit, I did find a six-piece kit, with pretty good reviews: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081DNBMMX

The KORJO LED underglow kit contains 6 LED strips:
• 2x 24" strips
• 2x 61" strips (for the sides)
• 2x 24" strips

Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** 4709f742-6e53-4077-aba7-8ca33847ec66.__CR0,0,300,300_PT0_SX300_V1___


This kit has no dedicated 'front' or 'rear' LED sections, as you can see above, which will become important later on.

After viewing some install videos, I felt this kit could kit my needs, so, pulled the trigger on it!

Now, I didn't take a bunch of pics for a step-by-step DIY partially because those are posted around the interwebs, and partially because it's somewhat self-explanatory. You'll need zipties to tie the LED cabling to various locations around the wheel wells (try to find adjacent holes), but I recommend also using adhesive wire clips to hold the cable tight around the interior of the wheel well, inside of the fender liners. These worked really well for me. Just ensure you clean off the bare metal of any dust or debris. A microfiber cloth & windex worked perfectly to ensure the surface was prepped before attaching the wire clips (after cleaning the surface, ensure it's dry).

Now, one issue, particular to this kit, it that the front LED section being split into two strips means that the two strips have to be mounted somewhat close together to create a 'singular' beam pattern. The throw of light is considerable, but a gap will be noticeable if the strips are 10" or more apart when distributed across the front underside. After mounting those front strips with the included tape, and checking the light throw, I ended up adjusting the strips to be closer together, about 7" apart, the closest I could get them without extensive rewiring, in order to create a more seamless front light throw.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1848


Now, the above issue would, theoretically, manifest on all cars because of the nature of the kit, but I found some uniquenesses coupling that particular kit with the CivicX Coupe, or The Hotness™️ more specifically:

• There's only about two feet of cable between one set of the 24" strips and the power & bluetooth control boxes, which means that mounting those boxes fore or aft requires some serious planning. If mounting them near the front of the vehicle, as I did, close to power points, there are zero places on our cars to hide the boxes where they will not be subjected to heat or moisture, or both. The best place I could find was behind a piece of structural plastic, connected to solid wire loom mounts, behind and to the left of the lower cold-side intercooler tube (of which I have no pics because I stupidly forgot to take some ??). So far, under normal operating temps, everything seems fine, but I've yet to encounter water, rain, a car wash, or higher summer temps. Stay tuned. ? If that end of the strip was mounted aft, you still might have a heat/moisture issue because there's no way to mount them inside the vehicle, not to mention having to run the power cable all the way up to the front. When considering these options (hours of thought involved!), I thought fore mounting would be most beneficial.
• The LED strips come with a clear VHB tape backing for mounting, and forums, + the instructions, recommend cleaning the mounting surface well of dirt and grease. I used a towel soaked with rubbing alcohol & windex (to dilute) to clean all surfaces, twice, to ensure bonding. Now, for good reason, many suggest never relying solely on the tape, and, for the most part, I adhered (no pun intended!) to that wisdom (see the various pics across this post). BUT, for the front, I had to do something a bit different: The design of the Aeroflow splitter results in a small gap between the splitter and the front lip edge of the bumper. Thus, if I had used the included brackets, the screws would've popped right through the splitter, and been visual, destroying aesthetics. Plus, knowing I needed to adjust the two front LED strips closer together for a more unified throw of light, I also had to remove them from their first mount, which would reduce the efficacy of the adhesive tape backing. With all of this in mind, I got some super-strong VHB tape (15lb test!) with which to renew the adhesive backing. Once I cleaned the mounting surface again, the LED strips were re-mounted, and that new tape started bonding fast! So, as shown in the above pic, I used only one bracket on the outsides of the strips (where they would not show through the splitter, and am relying on the adhesive across the rest of the strip. I know, seems risky, but I tell ya' that tape seemed incredibly strong, even within minutes! I was impressed, though I'll continue to keep my eye on it.
• The tiny screws that come with the brackets are good only for screwing into plastic. Since I was screwing the mounting brackets into the powdercoated metal aero kit, those small screws snapped at the neck. Thus, I needed some tiny self-tapping screws that would fit the bracket holes, but also be somewhat short (1/2" screw), which proved effective.
• I found the brackets themselves had a small, but important, IMO, issue that no one has seemed to mention: the brackets only fully secure the LED strips at the ends of the strips themselves. I'll try to explain: the depth of the brackets is about 3/8", which matched the thickness of the ends of the strips (where the power wires connect), but is too large for the rest of the strip, which is only about 1/4" thick. So, when using the brackets across the LED strip range, there was about a 1/8" gap between the bracket and the strip, which means that the bracket isn't really securing the strip, but rather acting as a sort of 'safety' to prevent the strip from falling completely off the vehicle should the adhesive fail. IMO, this is a huge oversight, and one I was not about the let linger. So, my fix:

Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1847


Here, you can see an unmodified bracket in the upper-left. My fix was to use a small piece of that clear VHB tape I used for the front strips here, trifolded to fit into the space within the brackets. Then, because of how I mounted the LED strips down the sides, and in the rear, I snipped off one end to make them C-mount brackets.

After mounting them with the self-tapping screws, they worked out well! The tape eliminated the 1/8" gap, and everything mounted solidly.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1849

Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1850


Now, on to wiring! My wiring philosophy is to make connections streamlined, and look OEM. For the moment, I'm using the included 12V socket adapter to power the LEDs. After running the wiring temporarily through the underside of the dash, toward the fuse box, I used this guide for running the wire through the hood latch bulkhead grommet, which was a B*********************SH! OMG, it took everything I had to reseat that grommet. ? But, got it done.

In the engine bay, I routed the power wire up the inside of the fender, toward the LED kit's bluetooth module. In this pic, the black wires are from the bluetooth module, and the red/black wires are from the 12V socket adapter in the interior. Notice how the electrical connectors are tandem. Doing so provides for a less bulky package when wrapping everything up.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1851

Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1852


Here, everything is crimped, heat-shrunken, and loomed up across the side of the bay, looking OEM, as if it's supposed to be there. That's the kind of clean look I go for when wiring in permanent systems.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_1853


Videos!





































My thoughts overall:
• The kit has some faults, but I'd give it a 4/5.
• People across the interwebs said they installed this kit in a couple of hours, and unless they're doing these kits constantly, as a job, I would not trust that kind of install. From start to finish, I took 8 hours (6 one day, 2 hours the next) to install this kit because there was a lot of testing, adjusting, and planning to ensure everything was tight and secure. Any shorter time, IMO, runs the risk of rushing the job, and not making the install professional quality.

6-MONTH UPDATE: So far, so good! No issues whatsoever, even with washes, Super happy with this kit! 👍🏼
 
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Next up: the new ProCivic SiriMoto matte carbon FSB! Wanted this bar right when it was announced because 1. I’ve wanted an FSB for a while, 2. It totally fits my black/red/carbon design scheme, and 3. It looks like it’s somewhat low-profile in order to fit under a TS-style carbon hood.

The instructions for installing are super-simple, and included with the bar. A small thing I wish/hope they include is that the bracket mounting nuts are 15mm, while the bar-to-bracket bolts are 14mm. They’re torqued to 45lbs.

Now, centering the bar was easy, and I did the calibration for y’all ?: set both sides of the bar showing to 3/8” of threads:
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** A84E42A6-2F30-4667-A4C6-86732D504E50

This will center the bar between the brackets. Once everything is torqued to spec, roll the bar until tight to provide tension on the towers. To do so, the best way to describe this is to roll the top of the bar toward the windshield. Stated another way, if you were standing near the driver-side fender, looking toward the passenger-side strut tower, it would look like you’re rolling the bar clockwise.

Once the bar it tight between the brackets, tighten the locking nuts with a flat-jawed channel-lock wrench, or a large crescent wrench. Don’t have to be super-tight, but defiantly snug.

Overall, really happy with the bar thus far!
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** BA8081E5-8167-452E-92A4-2E1AC8FB906B

Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** A6CB506F-CF68-476F-8063-EC27C6B34D19

Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** AEAD6D3C-26DC-45D1-83D5-982BD81D1596
 
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Installing the Mishimoto Coolant Tank for the CTR into an Si Coupe!

At long last, the DIY that someone should've been written years ago! ?? Some folks install the Radium tank, but I opted for the Mishimoto tank because of it's one-piece construction, and I like Mishi, have a bunch of their other parts.
?

Tools needed:
• 10mm socket and ratchet with a short extension
• Two vice grips (if not flat-jawed, some method of covering the jaws)

Mods needed to make the Mishi tank work with the OEM coolant hoses:
• Upper Nipple: 3/4" of fuel line with these dimensions: 5/16" ID x 1/2" OD
• Lower Nipple: 1" screw-type hose clamp

Now, yes, the Mishi coolant tank is made for the CTR, determined not by the shape or the mounting points (TG! ??), but rather by the size and the positioning of the coolant hose nipples: OEM Si tank vs. the Mishi tank:
* Upper Nipple:
OEM = 1/2"
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0012

vs Mishi = 5/16"
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0002


• Lower Nipple:
OEM = 9/16"
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0026

Mishi = 1/2"
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0007


I wanted this to fit into the engine bay in as OEM a manner as possible. The major issue here is adapting the OEM Si coolant hosing, both of which are larger than the Mishi nipples. For the upper hose, some folks have successfully replaced the upper OEM hose at the nearby t-junction by using a 5/16" barbed t-junction:
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** 1E71CA0F-1179-4EE4-8D00-26279DACEF19

(Image courtesy of @the_civic , who definitely helped me understand, and develop adapter ideas. TY, the_civic! ??)

I considered this option, but I wanted to keep the OEM hose, and the OEM connector to the mount (you'll see this later).

So, given the two diameters of the nipples between the tanks, I wondered if it would be possible to find an adapter that would fit both! It would need a 5/16" ID & a 1/2" OD. And, guess what?! O'Reilly's had bulk fuel hose in that exact dimension! And before anyone says anything, I did a bunch of research on using fuel line on a coolant system. The only concern is fuel line that cannot handle much pressure, but the stuff I got can handle 50PSI, which is way more than the coolant system will produce. DOES NOT WORK! UPDATED BELOW TO A NEW METHOD USING the_civic's MOD.

I used 3/4" of fuel line slipped onto the upper nipple.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0020

Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0021

Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0022


On to the removal of the OEM tank! I wanted to do all of this WITHOUT draining the coolant system, and WITH saving as much coolant as possible. After removing the two 10mm mounting bolts, I carefully maneuvered the tank out from underneath the FSTB. It definitely has some leeway to tilt the tank CAREFULLY, tilting the cap upward to drain out coolant into the two hoses. Then, clamp them shut using vice grips. For the upper hose, I used a piece of that extra fuel line, split longitudinally, as a sacrificial barrier to protect the OEM hose from the vice-grip's jaw teeth. For the lower hose, I used more extra fuel line on the long-jawed vice grip jaws before clamping.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0023


Start with the upper hose: Release the OEM ring hose clamp, then carefully pull off the hose. I temporarily plugged with an extra drain bolt I had, which worked great!
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0024


Then, I was able to move the OEM tank up and over more to release the OEM spring hose clamp on the lower hose. At this point, only a few drops of coolant dripped onto the engine mount.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0025

With this position, it was somewhat easy to disconnect the lower hose, but I definitely spilled some coolant here! ? Not much, but it did splash over that area in the engine bay. I was able to quickly tilt the OEM tank back raise the nipples upward, preventing spillage, but I definitely had to spray down the area with some BrakeKlean afterward.

The OEM upper hose slips perfectly onto the fuel hose on the upper nipple! Use the OEM spring hose clamp to secure it! Wow, that turned out well.

Now, RE the difference in the lower nipple sizes between the two tanks: I didn't know this beforehand, otherwise I would tried to find some other size of fuel line to fit as an adapter, similar to the upper nipple. BUT the difference was only about 1/16" of an inch, so, not even sure I could find a hose that would fit. The Mishi lower nipple slid into the OEM lower hose a bit too loosely, and I didn't trust the OEM spring hose clamp to clamp sufficiently, so, I used a 1" screw-type hose clamp, which worked well. Tighten tightly, but not hella hella tightly! ?
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0027

Once the Mishi tank is in place, the 1" hose clamp tucks perfectly under the A/C line bracket:
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0032


Here's the OEM T-junction mount:
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0028

Remove the 10mm bolt connecting the mount to the motor mount. This will make tightening down the Mishi tank much easier.

Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0030

After the 10mm tank mounting bolts are Gud-n-Tight, re-attach the T-junction mount, but turn it slightly counter-clockwise in order to reduce the strain across the hoses. You'll see what I mean, but, basically, the OEM upper hose is a bit tight, so, adjust the T-junction mount to recuse the strain a bit. Overall, though, it's nothing concerning.

After all of the bolts are tightened, use a funnel to pour what's left of the coolant in the OEM tank into the Mishi tank. I only ended up losing about less-than-half of the OEM reservoir tank's total coolant, so, there was still a bunch that went back into the Mishi tank. I do need to get some extra, though, to fully fill up the tank.

Okay, after the install, I let the engine warm up to operating temp, and took her for a test drive, stopping periodically to check for leaks. Thus far, everything is bone dry! ?????? I even set TunerView on the headset to show the coolant temp, and it hovered between 174-176F.

Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0033


UPDATE: So, after some drive time, I noticed a leak so small, it's more of a weep, from the upper hose connection point, where I used the fuel hose as an adapter.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0052

In retrospect, maybe a slight bit of silicone between the two hoses might be helpful for sealing, though not sure on the heat and anti-corrosive properties. Anywho, replaced the OEM spring clamp with a simple worm hose clamp, and everything's now dry as a bone after a test drive!
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0067


2/27/22 UPDATE

So, the worm gear hose clamp did not slow down the leak, which means that my trick of using the fuel hosing as an adapter for the OEM hose did not work. ?? Thus, I'll have to use the 5/16 fuel line, but will need a 5/16 barbed tee for the tie in to the coolant system.
Overall, you'll need:
• 3-way 5/16" barbed tee
• Hose clamps of your choice. I opted for spring clamps for an OEM look.
• 1/2" hose loop mount
• A turkey baster for removing the coolant from the tank. ?

First, removing enough coolant from the tank. Overall, I had to remove enough to get the level below the upper nipple, which is the line I would be removing.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0070

I have no idea why I find this so funny, but I was cracking up as I did this. ??? Just spit the coolant into a clean container for now. It'll go back in afterward. As you can see in the pic, the baster was a but too big at the tip's taper to reach into the tank as far as I needed it to go. So, I'll need a hose to attach to the baster, one small enough to fit into the tank. Hmmm... You know, it'd be nice if I had some of that fuel line left over.

TAA-DAA! My Patent-Pending Manually-Operated Coolant Removal Device! ? I just shoved the tubing (which I would eventually be using to complete this job) as far up the baster as it would go, then used a bit of tape just to hold it on there.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0071

Worked like a charm! Once I removed enough coolant, checked using the typing as a dipstick of sorts, I was able to remove the 1/2" OEM coolant line attached to the tank, and remove the two OEN coolant lines at the OEM tee. Afterward, I placed the new 5/16" tee in place.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0072

BUT, I found attaching the new 5/16" coolant line to the tee to be a b***H, so, PRO TIP: attach the tee to the 5/16" fuel line that will be the new coolant line FIRST! I used a bit of lube to shove the tubing onto the tee, THEN attached the tee to the two other OEM 5/16" coolant lines.

Now, knowing that I wanted to use the OEM mount for the loop hose mount, I estimated one piece of tubing length, but it was about 1" too short to accommodate the loop mount, so, I had enough fuel line for one just a bit longer. 7" gets the job done! ?
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0073


Afterward, tighten everything up, and refill the coolant in the tank up to the cold mark.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0075


Went for a longer drive this time, got the car up to temp, and checked the new lines. So far, dry as bones! Thanks, the_civic!

UPDATE: still dry as ever, even after different types of driving conditions. Seems like it's doing fine! No leak, and coolant temps stay nominal.
 
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Installing the Whiteline control arm lower inner rear bushings!

Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** 1643953182156


For the price, these seemed like a simple upgrade.

Tools needed:
• 10mm socket and ratchet
• Flat-head screwdriver to remove the pop-clip
• Prying tools for leverage to install the bushings

First, remove a pop-clip in the wheel well, and a 10mm bolt underneath, to allow that section of the under tray to flex out of the way.
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0013

Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0014


This will provide access to the rear arm mount. Grease up the bushings with the supplied grease according to the included instructions, and ensure you lube to tip of the pen... uh, nipples. ? Afterward, start fitting in the bushing into the rear of the arm mount:
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0015

Now, this is where the fun begins! ? You'll have to squeeze, press, curse, and sweet talk your way to get this bushings into the mounts! It's a damn tight fit! I ended up having to use a big-f****** screwdriver, and a breaker bar, between the chassis and the bushing as leverage to shove the bushing into the mount.

At this point...
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0016

You might think the bushing is in, but it's actually not fully seated. You'll have to find a way to shove the bushing in even further!

This is what it looks like fully seated, from the backend:
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0018


...And from the front end:
Honda Civic 10th gen ***The Hotness™️ Build Thread!*** IMG_0017

Notice how the nipples kinda lock into place.

Afterward, re-bolt up the 10mm bolt, and pop in the pop-clip, to re-secure the under tray.

Overall, I didn't notice too much of a difference with steering, but it's probably because I have the Flex Zs set stiff, and the FSTB. For the cost, relatively easy upgrade, similar to the Perrin RMM inserts, and for anyone installing coils, might as well do these while you're in there.
 
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