The FK8 Wiki: Tuning and technical info

What horsepower level are you at?


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kefi

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Really? I wonder if @D-RobIMW would be able to tune the new 4P fuel pump with Hondata? I'm planning on heading down there for my custom tune in the spring.
http://www.4pistonracing.com/4pr-k20cdipump-30 said:
It is currently being operated on the OEM ECU, but does require a competent tuner to make adjustments.
It's on the page for their fuel pump. Not sure if it's Hondata or not, but it's probably possible and DRob would definitely be competent enough.
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now that all the supporting mods are out, and 600hp/600tq is within grasp, what kind of clutch & flywheel combo would you guys suggest, and is it a feasible daily combo? will the street twin disk be wayyyyy too much? will th FX500 be enough? I've read about what the different puck arrangements do and how the different materials work, but I didn't even think to read about how it may effect the drive of the Type R.
 

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now that all the supporting mods are out, and 600hp/600tq is within grasp, what kind of clutch & flywheel combo would you guys suggest, and is it a feasible daily combo? will the street twin disk be wayyyyy too much? will th FX500 be enough? I've read about what the different puck arrangements do and how the different materials work, but I didn't even think to read about how it may effect the drive of the Type R.
Pretty sure 500 is not doable without a built block let alone 600 lol
 
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Pretty sure 500 is not doable without a built block let alone 600 lol
500 maaaybe if you don't track it, 600 definitely not. But I'm sure he's got that in mind anyways. I don't believe anyone has reliably gotten past 550 yet either way, and that was Luke from 4piston just a few weeks ago using MoTeC and his new fuel system.. so nobody can really comment on how well the higher end clutches really work yet I'd think.

I'm too inexperienced with clutches to really say which one would be good anyways, but at 600hp there's definitely gonna be some drivability tradeoffs.
 
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luke has hit over 600 with race fuel iirc but yeah he has a built engine.
Oh, that's right. I forgot about that ridiculous run. I wish I could work in an engine shop where I just get to push these things to the limit.. way more cool than software, good pay or not.
 

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500 maaaybe if you don't track it, 600 definitely not. But I'm sure he's got that in mind anyways. I don't believe anyone has reliably gotten past 550 yet either way, and that was Luke from 4piston just a few weeks ago using MoTeC and his new fuel system.. so nobody can really comment on how well the higher end clutches really work yet I'd think.

I'm too inexperienced with clutches to really say which one would be good anyways, but at 600hp there's definitely gonna be some drivability tradeoffs.
I'm definitely going to build the block I'm rounding out my list for everything i'm going to need, i'm looking at a tag of about 15K-20k so far from top end to bottom end, but there are some things that are still alluding my own knowledge due to out dated or uninformative articles, the goal is for a streetable 600WHP daily Type R. Right now the issue I am running into is what clutch will be able to hold the amount of torque and still allow for a mostly fluid driving experience or is that just a pipe dream
 

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I'm definitely going to build the block I'm rounding out my list for everything i'm going to need, i'm looking at a tag of about 15K-20k so far from top end to bottom end, but there are some things that are still alluding my own knowledge due to out dated or uninformative articles, the goal is for a streetable 600WHP daily Type R. Right now the issue I am running into is what clutch will be able to hold the amount of torque and still allow for a mostly fluid driving experience or is that just a pipe dream
Think that'll be tough, but hope you pull it off so I can see it lol - Houston here too
 
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I'm definitely going to build the block I'm rounding out my list for everything i'm going to need, i'm looking at a tag of about 15K-20k so far from top end to bottom end, but there are some things that are still alluding my own knowledge due to out dated or uninformative articles, the goal is for a streetable 600WHP daily Type R. Right now the issue I am running into is what clutch will be able to hold the amount of torque and still allow for a mostly fluid driving experience or is that just a pipe dream
I mean, theres all kinds of cars pushing that much torque with a decent clutch engagement. I doubt its a pipe dream, but it's gonna take a few guinea pigs before we figure that one out. Nobody is running over 500 on the street yet, only on dynos with prototype hardware while we enter the golden age of having fuel upgrades. We'll probably see reliable, streetable 500-550 by the end of the year.
 

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I mean, theres all kinds of cars pushing that much torque with a decent clutch engagement. I doubt its a pipe dream, but it's gonna take a few guinea pigs before we figure that one out. Nobody is running over 500 on the street yet, only on dynos with prototype hardware while we enter the golden age of having fuel upgrades. We'll probably see reliable, streetable 500-550 by the end of the year.
maybe that's why im having confusion on which clutch to choose HA, its because theres not a whole lot of guinea pigs out there testing the clutchs!

I feel like if you leave the steel fly wheel and swap to the twindisc from clutch masters it should be fine, but i think swapping to the aluminum and the twin disc will be too much and make it no longer a smooth clutch engagement
 


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I’d like to know where he got 1600 for full bolt ons??? Real Intake not drop in filter 3-400 . Intercooler with piping 700-1000. cheapest full exhaust I know of is invidia with hump pipe for about 800. The down pipe is at least 3-400. That’s no less than 2200. Plus if you can’t install it yourself your paying someone else. If we are going true full bolt on you would need to include PRL Motorsports turbo inlet tubing at another 500.
I’m not trying to be rude but 1600 is rather misleading. I did a lot of research before I purchased my parts. I paid more than 2200 but I bought some better equipment.

I’m not going to get into ethanol And fuel system cause many people would believe it doesn’t fall under this category.
 
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I’d like to know where he got 1600 for full bolt ons??? Real Intake not drop in filter 3-400 . Intercooler with piping 700-1000. cheapest full exhaust I know of is invidia with hump pipe for about 800. The down pipe is at least 3-400. That’s no less than 2200. Plus if you can’t install it yourself your paying someone else. If we are going true full bolt on you would need to include PRL Motorsports turbo inlet tubing at another 500.
I’m not trying to be rude but 1600 is rather misleading. I did a lot of research before I purchased my parts. I paid more than 2200 but I bought some better equipment.

I’m not going to get into ethanol And fuel system cause many people would believe it doesn’t fall under this category.
I agree, the list was a bit confusing cause I changed it so much. I redid it to consider actual full bolt ons, even though it's unnecessary in lower power levels.
 
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I’d like to know where he got 1600 for full bolt ons??? Real Intake not drop in filter 3-400 . Intercooler with piping 700-1000. cheapest full exhaust I know of is invidia with hump pipe for about 800. The down pipe is at least 3-400. That’s no less than 2200. Plus if you can’t install it yourself your paying someone else. If we are going true full bolt on you would need to include PRL Motorsports turbo inlet tubing at another 500.
I’m not trying to be rude but 1600 is rather misleading. I did a lot of research before I purchased my parts. I paid more than 2200 but I bought some better equipment.

I’m not going to get into ethanol And fuel system cause many people would believe it doesn’t fall under this category.
Sales and browsing the members classifieds. I’m only in $600 not including hondata and I have a mishi intercooler and the prl intake tube with k&n filter. I plan to be out no more than 2 grand after full bolt ons could be less depending on which exhaust I get. This is including inlet pipe
 

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Sales and browsing the members classifieds. I’m only in $600 not including hondata and I have a mishi intercooler and the prl intake tube with k&n filter. I plan to be out no more than 2 grand after full bolt ons could be less depending on which exhaust I get. This is including inlet pipe
I can tell you a full intake is noticeably better above 5k. I don’t consider drop in filters and tube only to be a true intake. Especially if your tuned it makes a large difference. The hardest thing for any turbo car besides building pressure is overcoming suction of any sort on top of it. On my 2016 mk7 gti the 7 inch long turbo inlet elbow freed up no joke 10hp. It was 150 dollar part. That’s why I’m totally surprised only one other company has produced turbo inlet piping besides prl and they want over1000 cause it’s titanium. Any vacuum created by the suction side of the turbo is extremely detrimental to power. I am not knocking your route it’s still better than stock.
Are you trying to say you got a mishimoto intercooler for a type r for under 600 cause that’s damn cheap. I can’t understand why anyone would sell it other than having trouble upgrading the rad after cause that mishimoto piping takes up too much room. You have to modify a Koyo rad to fit if you change the intercooler piping. I know first hand. In bolt ons and supporting mods I clear over 6000. Not including rims. But I’ve got both turbo and inlet blankets every piece of piping. Ceramic coated catted downpipe.
I have an invidia catless down pipe I’ll sell for 100 but I’m not paying shipping. The only thing is one of the welds on the heat sheild bracket cracked. I went to catted cause it was too loud and dronny with a full exhaust not cat. If your interested PM me I’ll show you pics
 
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I agree, the list was a bit confusing cause I changed it so much. I redid it to consider actual full bolt ons, even though it's unnecessary in lower power levels.
I agree.
Without a tune the only thing anyone should change is the air filter and the intercooler. Only so it doesn’t heat soak by the end of third gear. Anything else is useless due to the flow restriction that are in place which measure total air flow and by torque calculated limits. The car will NOT exceed factory capability period!! There is no part out there that will give you more power in cold weather than stock. Only cooler air charge to keep power you would lose in hot weather.
Power is not regulated by a wasregate duty cycle chart. The computer calculates x air amount with y fuel = z torque. It uses two calculation to control the wastegate actuator. It doesn’t use hp calc. This is why stock calibration with Torque limit decreases as rpm increases.
The three best upgrades anyone can do on a budget is intercooler, hondata and prl stage 1 with drop in filter. I’d still recommend springing for full intake. Prl is easiest to install but no piping. It’s double the original core or larger. The biggest bolt on core is easily the mishimoto. Long term bigger power numbers you won’t need to change the mishimoto till over 600hp easily maybe more. I still say PRL intercooler is perfect for at least 500 all day. Don’t do injen or that other generic intercooler that tries to copy PRL design. I don’t know about any others from there.
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