**The FK8 Track Junkie Thread!!**

[Dave B]

If you plan to use the middle setting which gives you about -2.7 camber as your goal, take the pins out. If you are planning to use the more aggressive setting that will get you likely to a max of -3.7 or so, there is no need to pull the pins as you will likely want to back track on what is a very aggressive negative camber setting. I used the middle setting and definitely pulled the pins for an average of - 2.65 degrees on stock springs. There was slight discrepancy between sides with only -2.5 driver's side and -2.8 passenger side. I certainly didn't notice this driving and would be hard pressed to shift my subframe for a total of 0.15 degrees. If I were using a softer sidewall tire like the Yoko A052 or a full race slick, the more aggressive camber setting may be more ideal but I am happy with the middle setting.

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[AlphaDigital]

If you plan to use the middle setting which gives you about -2.7 camber as your goal, take the pins out. If you are planning to use the more aggressive setting that will get you likely to a max of -3.7 or so, there is no need to pull the pins as you will likely want to back track on what is a very aggressive negative camber setting. I used the middle setting and definitely pulled the pins for an average of - 2.65 degrees on stock springs. There was slight discrepancy between sides with only -2.5 driver's side and -2.8 passenger side. I certainly didn't notice this driving and would be hard pressed to shift my subframe for a total of 0.15 degrees. If I were using a softer sidewall tire like the Yoko A052 or a full race slick, the more aggressive camber setting may be more ideal but I am happy with the middle setting.

thanks!

 

[fatherpain]

Was the C&R radiator the street or Race version? An oil cooler and vented hood/open grill is a must also I believe.

Sorry to say...I was just at Road America this past weekend. First time with the CTR ontrack. Overheating is real...even with the C&R radiator in 72 degree weather.

It was 72 degrees.
I have the C&R track radiator and intercooler installed.
No tune or engine mods.
18x9.5 wheels w 265/35/18 Hankook RS4
ST43 PADS W SRF FLUID
-no limp mode BUT...
Temp gauge was 3 bars away from H after 3 laps.
Power was waaaay down at this point.
Ran heater on full hot after this first session. Would get maybe 1 full lap of decent power and then power started getting pulled a lot. Short shifted at 6500 rpm.

I will be adding a vented hood and resending.

Ended up running a 2:41.9 with these issues. I sure hope I can figure out these overheat issues.

 

[dsm_mikey]

Was the C&R radiator the street or Race version? An oil cooler and vented hood/open grill is a must also I believe.

The C&R Radiator is the race version.
I am opening the grill with a Js racing grill copy and a race louvers hood vent.
We will see how it goes!

 

[fatherpain]

I highly recommend using a vacuum refiller. I purchased an OEM tools one from Amazon, then saw Acuity recommend it with their reverse flow hoses. Can see it in action here. Works great, but an air compressor is needed.

I've been trying to find how to bleed the 10th gen civic seeing we don't actually fill the radiator with coolant - but we fill the coolant tank. So I don't think we can use the "old school" burping funnels.

 

[Lust]

I mightve clicked buy on a front camber kit last night.

Question for you guys.

Is it worth it for me to throw the camber kit on and leave the alignment pins in? or should I take the pins out and have the kit installed? Is there any benefit to either?

thanks.

You can remove the pins. It will help you dial the camber evenly

 

[CaptClutch]

Track action from over the weekend, got P3 in the first session and then went to set a PB on this course

 

[EPSi2FKR]

some track gear and they included a toy car. More confidence to find limits. Only FIA approved HANS for 3-point seat belts. But my dumb ass forgot to order the post anchors.

 

[hesitation]

hey folks, what options has everyone considered / done for getting an actual harness that isn't just for show?

 

[EPSi2FKR]

hey folks, what options has everyone considered / done for getting an actual harness that isn't just for show?

you have to put in a roll cage/harness bars and even then it can be only 4 point harness with the stock seats. Otherwise, you’ll have to get aftermarket seats to accommodate a 5 point harness. I love the stock seats and I don’t like 4-point harness because there is little improvement in safety over 3 points and airbags (you can slide down under the harness). That’s why (in the above post) I have the Simpson Hybrid S to maximize safety and not trade off the other things that don’t fit my personal goals with the car.

 

[hesitation]

you have to put in a roll cage and even then it can be only 4 point harness with the stock seats. Otherwise, you’ll have to get aftermarket seats to accommodate a 5 point harness. I love the stock seats and I don’t like 4-point harness because there is little improvement in safety over 3 points and airbags (you can slide down under the harness. That’s why (in the above post) I have the Simpson Hybrid S to maximize safety and not trade off the other things that don’t fit my personal goals with the car. Only HANS that is FIA approved with 3 point belts.

thanks for the reply! safety is important. i won't be using the OEM seats in the long run because they are too big and dont really hold me in.

 

[QuasarMotors]

I am planning to dump my OE seats and get a Sabelt race seat. I have one picked out but haven’t gotten it yet. Already have a 4 point roll bar and will be investing in a 5/6 point harness although I am not sure which specific one. I heard it’s best to get a belt that you pull up instead of down to fasten yourself in. The OE seat is great but a little too big for me (skinny guy problems).

 

[hesitation]

jeff, are you getting the EVS 4 point bar? let me know how the install goes. i'm interested in that one as well.

 

[QuasarMotors]

jeff, are you getting the EVS 4 point bar? let me know how the install goes. i'm interested in that one as well.

Yup that’s the one I have installed. You will have to remove one of the rear doors to get the front bar assembly in the car. Other then that everything else went pretty smooth. To drill the holes on the floor you will need a extra long drill bit. 3/8ths if I remember correctly. Also you can no longer use the back seat.

 

[Yomny]

Ordered Porterfield R4/R4s (they didn't have the R4 for the rear) getting ready for my next track day at the end of Sept. Still riding the stock tires, not the greatest but they're handling themselves. I'm obviously not skilled enough to shred these as others have so welcoming all the seat time I could get.

The only thing I felt I needed more of on my last HPDE was stopping power. Keep the pics and videos coming along

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