**The FK8 Track Junkie Thread!!**

[sackofcheese]

It's pretty fast lol

One thing to note is that as mentioned in the video is it comes from the factory rated at 7/32 tread depth. Many street classes specify 8/32 as the starting point, so this will be illegal for some classes.

I saw in the GRM forum they’re 5/32” depth and SCCA needs 7/32”. It’s a bummer because they’d do well with the SCCa crowd given the stellar Hoosier contingency program. I do think they’d be a great HPDE/lapping tire though. Based on cost of the currently available ones on Tire Rack, for me I’d just go with the RE71RS though since it’s a known tire and I love them.

Sponsored

 

[Shred]

I saw in the GRM forum they’re 5/32” depth and SCCA needs 7/32”. It’s a bummer because they’d do well with the SCCa crowd given the stellar Hoosier contingency program. I do think they’d be a great HPDE/lapping tire though. Based on cost of the currently available ones on Tire Rack, for me I’d just go with the RE71RS though since it’s a known tire and I love them.

I thought SCCA was 8/32". Either way, too little tread off the bat. For any interested in the planned sizings, this was shared in an SCCA group:

 

[sackofcheese]

I thought SCCA was 8/32". Either way, too little tread off the bat. For any interested in the planned sizings, this was shared in an SCCA group:

I definitely think the target demographic is someone like my dad who seriously chases lap times, but only does hpde and drives his NA Miata to the track since it’s a 12 min drive from his house. NGL I was hoping for more from Hoosier and I wouldn’t be surprised if they quickly turn around a version 2.0 that is 7-9/32” depth for classing legality.

 

[AlphaDigital]

Holy smokes, starts at 5/32nds? thats nuts

 

[Dave B]

It all depends on the compounds and carcass structure that Hoosier uses. I have driven older Hoosiers that were so fast as to damage front wheel bearings. OTOH, they didn't do it for long. This new tire is going to need a much longer life span than the R7 etc.

Also the 200 UTQG rating is a joke. Same for a bunch of other tires. It would be good if there was some standard way to measure this as at the moment there isn't and the UTQG rating is determined by the manufacturer.

If it is as fast as expected, Hoosier might find that many competition groups will ban it and it will have more of a market for HPDE types who don't care about those things.

 

[Shred]

That was my thinking, even if it's rated for 200TW and meets the tread depth requirements if it's too far ahead of an RE71RS or A052 on lap times it'll just get banned from classes.

 

[MadMage]

Paging @MadMage

Sorry, wasn't online all weekend. Tons of stuff going on with the festival aspect and friends and family visiting. Heard they sold 1000 spectator tickets. And I know all the driving groups were sold out.

Several Type R's were down for all or part of the weekend. But wasn't aware of Noell, hopefully someone got him the parts he needed. Folks were really generous.

I myself had my new P Zero's get a bubble in one on Sat afternoon. Lots of folks willing to help out and could have DQ with a couple of different set of tires that were offered to me, but ended up with a set of Advan Apexs that kept me in class.

I saw in the GRM forum they’re 5/32” depth and SCCA needs 7/32”. It’s a bummer because they’d do well with the SCCa crowd given the stellar Hoosier contingency program.

Can't believe this was an accidental oversight on there part. Makes me wonder what the decision making looked like.

Also the 200 UTQG rating is a joke. Same for a bunch of other tires. It would be good if there was some standard way to measure this as at the moment there isn't and the UTQG rating is determined by the manufacturer.

UTOQ is a horrible system for rating grip. And it wasn't designed to be. It was/is all about tire longevity. I would love a better system that included measurement of both peak grip and grip duration under heat. Heck, maybe even longevity too. But I don't any manufacturer would ever want to spend the money to develop or test for such a system.

 

[1sloazfk8]

Sorry, wasn't online all weekend. Tons of stuff going on with the festival aspect and friends and family visiting. Heard they sold 1000 spectator tickets. And I know all the driving groups were sold out.

Several Type R's were down for all or part of the weekend. But wasn't aware of Noell, hopefully someone got him the parts he needed. Folks were really generous.

I myself had my new P Zero's get a bubble in one on Sat afternoon. Lots of folks willing to help out and could have DQ with a couple of different set of tires that were offered to me, but ended up with a set of Advan Apexs that kept me in class.

Can't believe this was an accidental oversight on there part. Makes me wonder what the decision making looked like.

UTOQ is a horrible system for rating grip. And it wasn't designed to be. It was/is all about tire longevity. I would love a better system that included measurement of both peak grip and grip duration under heat. Heck, maybe even longevity too. But I don't any manufacturer would ever want to spend the money to develop or test for such a system.

I had some Goodyears that were fresh for the taking, not like I needed them after Saturday.

On another note, any other track junkies using the Hondata HPFP and 1330cc injectors that has had issues recently, have had another failure on number 4 and Hondata basically said "cleaning will fix it." While I am not opposed to keep using them, that Full Race HPFP and XDI 1400cc injectors are starting to sound pretty tasty.

 

[MadMage]

I had some Goodyears that were fresh for the taking, not like I needed them after Saturday.

Couldn't find you to ask. Hunter took care of me in the end. 280TW so that's my excuse for my final times (Naw, I've just been slow everywhere the last year, not sure why.)
Though I'm still waiting for your videos to show me your line

 

[1sloazfk8]

Couldn't find you to ask. Hunter took care of me in the end. 280TW so that's my excuse for my final times (Naw, I've just been slow everywhere the last year, not sure why.)
Though I'm still waiting for your videos to show me your line

Hopefully today I can get some time to pull things off the Gopros, really need to plan having a day off between track days.....its not fun going right into work

 

[keller]

We hit the track last Sunday again. I need to increase my front static camber now that I have real grip. It's crazy how you can clearly tell the suspension is deforming under heavy cornering load. It'll stay that way because I'm not really willing to replace my compliance bushings yet. I had a great time though, 87 laps in total.

Also got a stuck lug nut. I'm not sure how this happened this soon - I always hand tightened and then used a torque wrench. I had to force it out with an impact driver knowing that my wheel stud was dead. Oh well...

 

[AR-Delta]

We hit the track last Sunday again. I need to increase my front static camber now that I have real grip. It's crazy how you can clearly tell the suspension is deforming under heavy cornering load. It'll stay that way because I'm not really willing to replace my compliance bushings yet. I had a great time though, 87 laps in total.

Also got a stuck lug nut. I'm not sure how this happened this soon - I always hand tightened and then used a torque wrench. I had to force it out with an impact driver knowing that my wheel stud was dead. Oh well...

Are those aluminum lug nuts? I’ve switched back to steel and have had no issues.

 

[keller]

Are those aluminum lug nuts? I’ve switched back to steel and have had no issues.

Those are steel lug nuts. I did remove them while the wheel was still somewhat hot, but I have been doing that for a long time with no problems until now. I chose steel lug nuts exactly because they would expand at the same rate as the wheel studs.

 

[AR-Delta]

Those are steel lug nuts. I did remove them while the wheel was still somewhat hot, but I have been doing that for a long time with no problems until now. I chose steel lug nuts exactly because they would expand at the same rate as the wheel studs.

Gotcha, makes sense! I’ve run a few different lugs over the years and steel definitely wears the best with track use.

What tires are you running and how much camber?

 

[keller]

Gotcha, makes sense! I’ve run a few different lugs over the years and steel definitely wears the best with track use.

What tires are you running and how much camber?

I have used aluminum ones at the track, but I noticed how they always seemed undertorqued when hot. Then, if I torqued them again, I was risking them fail on me later when cold. Titanium nuts won't fail, but are hard to remove at temperature unless you use lubricant. Steel is just perfect because it matches the wheel studs.

Tires are yokos a005 medium compound and my R has only -2.3 camber up front. I'm planning to max the lower ball joints when I get to install my new wheel studs.

Sponsored