**The FK8 Track Junkie Thread!!**

[Dave B]

Sam3, many thanks for your write up in post 289. I have never been to Willow Springs but it looks to be as fast or even faster than my local Mosport. Here are a few thoughts.

Springs. If you have stiffer lowering springs without upgrading your shocks, you will run into the trouble you have with bouncing and a more difficult car to control as well as tire rub. You might want to go back to stock springs. The car doesn't roll all that much with 200 UTQG tires.

Brakes. Brakes convert energy into heat but that total energy is in direct proportion to the square of the speed differential from when you first start applying them to when you come off the pedal. It can be a lot of heat produced in a very short time. You clearly need better pads and I would have thought on such a fast track that Project Mu Club Racers wouldn't to it.

Impending mods. If you are using the nannies in R+ mode, I would suggest you turn them off first before going to a stiffer rear bar. The nannies can save your bacon but if you rely on them, you will usually go slower and the car is going to resist rotation anyway.

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[AlphaDigital]

Springs. If you have stiffer lowering springs without upgrading your shocks, you will run into the trouble you have with bouncing and a more difficult car to control as well as tire rub. You might want to go back to stock springs. The car doesn't roll all that much with 200 UTQG tires.

In general, I think what youre saying is true, a mismatched spring rate and stock dampening has the potential to be bad, but I dont think its the case here. Hes on uncut bump stops and I believe thats playing into his bounciness.

A lot of us are on lowering springs, many on swifts, and a handful of guys are pushing track FWD records on it as well. There is a lot of praise for the stock dampening system +Swifts out there.

 

[SpsTech]

Hey guys and gals I'm Stephen. I do a lot if different racing with both 10th gen civics the FK8 and Si. We use the Si for endurance racing in WRL and the Type-R is basically a time attack car. Feel free to ask questions about the cars set up. It's honestly to much to list

 

[Sam3]

Springs. If you have stiffer lowering springs without upgrading your shocks, you will run into the trouble you have with bouncing and a more difficult car to control as well as tire rub. You might want to go back to stock springs. The car doesn't roll all that much with 200 UTQG tires.

Thanks Dave for the feedback! Unfortunately the car was rolling badly for me on the stock suspension in +R mode. The Cup 2 tires are 180 UTQG, but they are 245 section. I'd assume the RT660 with 200 UTQG at 275 section should have more grip (and they do feel like they have quite a bit more grip, especially with the negative camber of 2.5). See these pics from Chuckwalla (the previous track event). The roll was terrible whether I'm driving alone or with an instructor.

I need a stiffer suspension and I feel the car has a pretty high center of gravity, especially with a heavy tall guy like me. The Swifts give me both. But I need to resolve the excessive bounciness. We'll see how it plays out after I cut the bump stops.

Brakes. Brakes convert energy into heat but that total energy is in direct proportion to the square of the speed differential from when you first start applying them to when you come off the pedal. It can be a lot of heat produced in a very short time. You clearly need better pads and I would have thought on such a fast track that Project Mu Club Racers wouldn't to it.

I heard from accomplished track drivers that the Project Mu Club Sport should hold up well on the track. Have you had a different experience with them? I certainly don't want to repeat the experience with the Endless CC-Rg. They badly smeared the stock rotors and the shiny new Girodiscs

Impending mods. If you are using the nannies in R+ mode, I would suggest you turn them off first before going to a stiffer rear bar. The nannies can save your bacon but if you rely on them, you will usually go slower and the car is going to resist rotation anyway.

Though I have traction control fully on in +R mode, I have yet to notice it intervene. I know when it intervenes because when I refueled at Big Willow, I forgot to set +R mode on, and it was intervening and cutting off power several times each corner in Sport mode. Even if I get used to turning it off before the sway bar, I will turn it back one when I install the bar because I'm very nervous I would not react fast enough or properly handle a high speed oversteer. I guess I'll have this anxiety till it actually happens and I'm able to deal with it. I'll install the sway bar and see how much traction control is attempting to save me. When I'm comfortable with the handling, I'll start to partially turn it off (the 5 seconds press then the 10 seconds).

 

[AlphaDigital]

Wow those look like they smeared pretty bad! The Clubracers are priced so good compared to the GLOCs, its almost tempting to switch over to those. So far, ive had excellent experience with my GLOCs though, well see!

 

[fatherpain]

I’ve only used Girodisc SS pads (Street/Track) with the Giro front rotors and they’ve performed well. Reasonably priced at $140 for a pair of fronts. No smearing (at my level of driving, fwiw. 8 track days).

Girodisc also sell dedicated track pads but are supposed to be noisy, cost $350 or so and would chew the rotors faster… I’m not ready for that yet, heh.

 

[Dave B]

Sam3, to prevent tire rub you might do well with the shorter diameter 265 Falken vs the 275. Not a lot of difference I know.

I am very happy with my Paragon/Winmax 5s up front with Hawk DTC30 rears.

Agree that the issue with oversteer that you might find with a stiffer rear bar will depend on where in the corner you get it. Most likely while trail braking on corner entry which is why I always like a less aggressive rear brake pad. If it occurs elsewhere in the corner, you really have to train yourself to not lift and potentially hit the throttle harder. The last thing you need is less weight on the rear of the car with a stiff rear antiroll bar.

 

[ApexEight]

Long-time lurker here (still saving for an FK8 or maybe an 11th gen). Somehow missed this good thread. Just want to add that a more efficient turbo will help a lot with overheating. The stock turbo is too restrictive and generates a ton of heat. Got this info from picking the brain of one of the old USR guys, Jason Owens.

Also want to reiterate from one of the earlier comments; toe out in the rear gives more rotation.

 

[NinjaDog]

Anyone installed front and rear tow hooks on their cars? What did you go with?

Would prefer a proper tow strap but can't work out how to do it with off the shelf items.

 

[REDRAGN]

Anyone installed front and rear tow hooks on their cars? What did you go with?

Would prefer a proper tow strap but can't work out how to do it with off the shelf items.

I have the USR Front tow hook and rear is cheap and easy...install the OEM rear!

Tow straps are difficult as most bolt them to the crash bar and its not designed to withstand the twisting and pulling force of how they are usually mounted.

I have seen a few straps mounted to the front tow ring under the car and just zip tied or taped to the front bumper. This is a decent option but most don't like it because it doesn't "look cool."

 

[Coldpizza]

Anyone installed front and rear tow hooks on their cars? What did you go with?

Would prefer a proper tow strap but can't work out how to do it with off the shelf items.

Raceseng Front Tow Hook, OEM rear

 

[NinjaDog]

The raceseng is the best looking. What have you done for the rear? Any mods or do you just install at the track?

 

[AlphaDigital]

is there a difference between the Raceng and the Perrin tow hook? Besides the fact that the Perrin has a fixed ring? The Perrin says its for straight line towing, and not for anything else, which I would imagine is the same with the Raceng, but the price difference between the two is mind blowing.

 

[fatherpain]

As @REDRAGN alluded to, just use the included OEM towhook for the rear. Here is a link to a step by step photo install

I am using Raceseng for the front, just like @Coldpizza. Went with a black one… but I think they have additional colors. A little bit pricier than other towhook options, but construction is robust and has an “R” embossed onto it so that’s a plus, ?.

Raceseng towhook Step by step can seen starting here then scrolling down to the next post, if decide to go with same option. May also be helpful if choose another brand as well.

The raceseng is the best looking. What have you done for the rear? Any mods or do you just install at the track?

 

[Coldpizza]

The raceseng is the best looking. What have you done for the rear? Any mods or do you just install at the track?

Just install at the track, nothing fancy. Easy to pull off the piece of the bumper covering the tow hook hole with a plastic trim removal tool and screw in the OEM tow hook.

is there a difference between the Raceng and the Perrin tow hook? Besides the fact that the Perrin has a fixed ring? The Perrin says its for straight line towing, and not for anything else, which I would imagine is the same with the Raceng, but the price difference between the two is mind blowing.

Perrin mounts onto the crash bar (the side of it I think), and the Raceseng mounts using the bolts that are used to mount the crash bar itself. The shaft on the Raceseng is massive and the system has been tested to 8k lb straight pull. I think Perrin posted on the boards a while back that their hook is primarily for show.

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