**The FK8 Track Junkie Thread!!**

[Coldpizza]

Anyone here use racebox?

Wondering if its a decent alternative to the Aim Solo

https://www.amazon.com/RaceBox-Based-Performance-Meter-Mobile/dp/B08BH7Z97M/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=146WL22ENV4KC&keywords=aim+solo&qid=1640355627&sprefix=ai,aps,391&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyV0s3UjRKQzdMTkRNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDAzNzMxMTZaU0hXVTg5VUxaMSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTM2MTgyMTdCN1lDWTBXNEdHUSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Yes, I haven’t used AIM myself but I think it works well. I haven’t had the best of luck with Harry’s, even with an external GPS so I tried out the Racebox as a cheaper alternative to AIM. Signal has been reliable at the tracks I’ve been to, and I like being able to view the data on my phone and compare data between laps pretty easily. Predictive mode is a nice feature too. Recommend it if you’re wanting a decent lap timer for HPDEs.

Sponsored

 

[AlphaDigital]

Yes, I haven’t used AIM myself but I think it works well. I haven’t had the best of luck with Harry’s, even with an external GPS so I tried out the Racebox as a cheaper alternative to AIM. Signal has been reliable at the tracks I’ve been to, and I like being able to view the data on my phone and compare data between laps pretty easily. Predictive mode is a nice feature too. Recommend it if you’re wanting a decent lap timer for HPDEs.

Nice, thank you for the feedback!

 

[REDRAGN]

Nice, thank you for the feedback!

I'll second @Coldpizza, Racebox works well and is perfect for the price point!

 

[Sam3]

Went for my 5th track event and first time at Big Willow (WSIR). It’s also the first time I try the wheel and suspension mods, which are a significant deviation from the stock setup. The car is still on stock power with no bolt-ons or tunes. Sharing some findings and seeking feedback.

Here’s footage of a few laps with instruction:




Springs

The new Swift springs were very bouncy in +R mode on this bumpy track. I and the instructor were jumping on our seats. I compared my footage (see here) with Brandon’s, who has the same springs (see here), and he’s not bouncing as bad. I read some threads about cutting the stock struts bump stops to mitigate bounciness (see here). Unlike Eibach and Spoon, Swift tested their springs with the stock bump stops and they don’t recommend cutting them. Jumping out of my seat in a high speed turn like Turn 8 is quite unsettling.

@b2point0h Did you cut your bump stops, or the springs take some time to be broken in?

Brakes

After the 4th session, the car was shaking badly when I apply the brakes. The Endless CC-Rg pads are not up to track duty. It smeared and possibly warped my stock rotors at Chuckwalla, and it overheated at Big Willow and badly smeared the new Girodisc front right rotor. There’s a big dark spot on it. I saw smoke coming out of them when I interrupted a session to refuel. Now I have to resurface the rotors. Girodisc recommended that I sand them with 100 grit paper, and they offer free resurfacing if I send the discs to them. I may end up doing that if I cannot find a reliable resurfacing shop here. The dealer resurfacing of the stock rotors didn’t solve the issue.

The info on the Endless website is kinda misleading. They separate their pads for road cars, i.e. street cars, and race cars. The CC-Rg is the most track focused of the road car line-up. I didn’t know they have a separate line for more track-focused pads. The dealer assured they should be good enough on the track. They’re not.

I’m going to install Project Mu Club Sport front and rear pads for the next track event.

Gas

I experienced for the first time the car cutting off power at 1/4 tank coming out of Turn 2. That day there wasn’t many cars present at the event, and our sessions were extended from 25 minutes to 30 minutes. I had to refuel every 2 sessions. I didn’t bring my own gas with me. It would have been futile at this rate. The track gas pump ran out of 91 octane and I had to fill with 101 octane (most likely leaded). The car ran fine, and I felt it had slightly more power.

Rubbing

Even after rolling the front fenders and shaving plastic from the rear fenders, the Falken RT660 tires at 275/35R18 are still rubbing front and rear. The fronts are now rubbing at the side markers. I need to somehow cut them but seal them so water doesn’t get in, or completely delete them.

If someone knows of a clean solution, please let me know.

For the rear, I need to shave more plastic, but I’m getting close to the fender metal piece and I may end up cutting it.

Rubbing marks on rear:

Wheels and Tires

For sure there is torque steer with 18x9.5 ET45 wheels. You’ll notice it easily with sudden acceleration from low speeds. But it’s not too bad and you get used to it.

The Falken RT660 held up very well on the track in terms of grip. But they took quite a beating on this right-turn-heavy track. The added camber definitely helps. But I feel that they don’t provide enough auditory feedback when you’re at the edge of grip like the Cup 2, which are a lot more squealy. And it seems that I need more camber than 2.5 up front because I’m getting more wear on the outer edge, and I’m starting to get shredding signs after one track day (see pic). The only choice I have on the EVS ball joints is going all the way to 3.8, which is too big of a jump and I still drive the car on the street. I’m not sure adding adjustable top camber plates on the stock struts is going to work, and it’s not cheap. Coilovers with adjustable top hats will solve this problem and the front rubbing. I’ll most likely upgrade to coilers sometime next year.

Chunking:

Tread peel:

Overheating

It was very cold that day, with low 40’s in the early morning and low 60’s in the afternoon. No overheating due to this and my lack of experience driving the car at full potential.

Auto Rev Match

I did experience missed rev matches and relative wheel locks at Turn 3, but my instructor noticed that I downshift as soon as I hit the brake and release the clutch later. That was probably to simplify the turn-in process and focus more on making a clean turn. But my instructor asked me to wait after I apply the brakes and downshift right before I turn in. I did that and it solved the missed rev matches in that corner. We’ll see if this technique solves it on other tracks. I’d rather not install the Acuity pedal spacer and have to do heal-and-toe.


Upcoming mods

RV6 Rear Sway Bar and rear camber and toe arms

My instructor told me that the car needs more rotation and I should add a rear sway bar, and at my driving level, I should be to handle the extra rotation and occasional oversteer. I’m still having traction control fully on in +R mode. That’ll give me more confidence. But soon I need drop the training wheels and turn it off (or use Hondata traction control when it’s time for a tune).

The instructor confirmed that 2.5 camber at the rear is too much, but unfortunately even with that the wheels are still rubbing. If I ended up cutting the metal in the rear fender, I’ll go down to 2.0 rear camber, or even less.

Sport exhaust or a top-mounted dash display/logger (AIM MXS 1.2 or Motec C125)

The instructor told me that it’s very hard to hear engine revving on the stock exhaust. He said I should normally rely on the engine sound to estimate my speed for turns. He recommended installing a loud sport exhaust to help with that. But I’m reluctant to do this because:

1. Sometimes I take the car out very early morning and I don’t want to upset my neighbors.
2. It doesn't add any notable horsepower.
3. I have yet to hear an FK8 exhaust that sounds nice. That’s an issue on all forced induction four bangers.
4. It adds drone at freeway speeds.

The other option is a dash display mounted on top of the dashboard. Since I’m tall, the stock gauge cluster is significantly below my eye level, and I feel that looking at them distracts me from focusing on turns. I can install a simple LED row for the RPM, but I’m thinking it might be worth it to get a good display/logger unit. The benefits are:

1. I can readily glance RPM (LED array), speed, lap time, and other important info, like oil and coolant temperatures.
2. It can log engine telemetry for post-track analysis, something that a GoPro camera or Garmin Catalyst can’t.
3. I can transfer it to any car I upgrade to in the future, and it doesn’t lose a lot of aftermarket value like exhausts.

I need to do more research as these options aren’t cheap, especially the Motec.

Roll Bar

I already have a thread about this. My conclusion so far is that it needs to be a holistic, very well though out safety solution that includes an after market seat and harness. I need more time to research and check with specialist shops in my area.

More power?

With my current skills and experience, I’m not taking full advantage of the stock power in turns. Yes I could use more power in the straights. For example, in the long straight between Turn 9 and Turn 1, the maximum speed I could get was around 130 mph. May be a few more if I exit Turn 9 faster or brake later for Turn 1. But I’ve seen footage of modded FK8’s hitting around 145 at the end of that straight. That cuts on lap time. But I feel that I need to get close to the limit of the stock power in turns before upgrading. So I’ll wait this one out.

 

[fatherpain]

A valved exhaust would be the ideal addition. Quiet when want, loud when your stepping on it. Sequence is an excellent option… there are other valved exhaust options also like boost logic.

 

[MadMage]

After the 4th session, the car was shaking badly when I apply the brakes. The Endless CC-Rg pads are not up to track duty. It smeared and possibly warped my stock rotors at Chuckwalla, and it overheated at Big Willow and badly smeared the new Girodisc front right rotor. There’s a big dark spot on it. I saw smoke coming out of them when I interrupted a session to refuel. Now I have to resurface the rotors. Girodisc recommended that I sand them with 100 grit paper, and they offer free resurfacing if I send the discs to them. I may end up doing that if I cannot find a reliable resurfacing shop here. The dealer resurfacing of the stock rotors didn’t solve the issue.

The info on the Endless website is kinda misleading. They separate their pads for road cars, i.e. street cars, and race cars. The CC-Rg is the most track focused of the road car line-up. I didn’t know they have a separate line for more track-focused pads. The dealer assured they should be good enough on the track. They’re not.

I ran Endless MX-72 for track days 4-6, then ended up smearing them as well. Took my rotors off and honed them myself using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073DCRQK1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Really pretty easy. First time I was not aggressive enough with them and still had a touch of high spots. Note that this tool is a consumable, it's not going to last for ever, maybe 10 more rotors? WAG.

Then I switched to Carbotech XP10 pads. Using them both on and off the track (warm enough here for them on the street). If I was going to switch out pads at the track, I would have gone with the XP12s. Have run 2 track days with them and happy so far. I expect they will last me. Even happier with customer support.

I experienced for the first time the car cutting off power at 1/4 tank coming out of Turn 2. That day there wasn’t many cars present at the event, and our sessions were extended from 25 minutes to 30 minutes.

Yea, been there done that. If you bring fuel, don't get the cheap WalMart gas cans. Get the VP Race or similar. Fueling is SO much faster! (and they work without trouble or leaking!)

I did experience missed rev matches and relative wheel locks at Turn 3, but my instructor noticed that I downshift as soon as I hit the brake and release the clutch later. That was probably to simplify the turn-in process and focus more on making a clean turn. But my instructor asked me to wait after I apply the brakes and downshift right before I turn in. I did that and it solved the missed rev matches in that corner. We’ll see if this technique solves it on other tracks. I’d rather not install the Acuity pedal spacer and have to do heal-and-toe.

Rev match only hangs for a second or so, therefore when using it you have to engage right away. I discovered this on the street, as I used to shift gears when coasting into corners.

 

[b2point0h]

Went for my 5th track event and first time at Big Willow (WSIR). It’s also the first time I try the wheel and suspension mods, which are a significant deviation from the stock setup. The car is still on stock power with no bolt-ons or tunes. Sharing some findings and seeking feedback.

Here’s footage of a few laps with instruction:




Springs

The new Swift springs were very bouncy in +R mode on this bumpy track. I and the instructor were jumping on our seats. I compared my footage (see here) with Brandon’s, who has the same springs (see here), and he’s not bouncing as bad. I read some threads about cutting the stock struts bump stops to mitigate bounciness (see here). Unlike Eibach and Spoon, Swift tested their springs with the stock bump stops and they don’t recommend cutting them. Jumping out of my seat in a high speed turn like Turn 8 is quite unsettling.

@b2point0h Did you cut your bump stops, or the springs take some time to be broken in?

Brakes

After the 4th session, the car was shaking badly when I apply the brakes. The Endless CC-Rg pads are not up to track duty. It smeared and possibly warped my stock rotors at Chuckwalla, and it overheated at Big Willow and badly smeared the new Girodisc front right rotor. There’s a big dark spot on it. I saw smoke coming out of them when I interrupted a session to refuel. Now I have to resurface the rotors. Girodisc recommended that I sand them with 100 grit paper, and they offer free resurfacing if I send the discs to them. I may end up doing that if I cannot find a reliable resurfacing shop here. The dealer resurfacing of the stock rotors didn’t solve the issue.

The info on the Endless website is kinda misleading. They separate their pads for road cars, i.e. street cars, and race cars. The CC-Rg is the most track focused of the road car line-up. I didn’t know they have a separate line for more track-focused pads. The dealer assured they should be good enough on the track. They’re not.

I’m going to install Project Mu Club Sport front and rear pads for the next track event.

Gas

I experienced for the first time the car cutting off power at 1/4 tank coming out of Turn 2. That day there wasn’t many cars present at the event, and our sessions were extended from 25 minutes to 30 minutes. I had to refuel every 2 sessions. I didn’t bring my own gas with me. It would have been futile at this rate. The track gas pump ran out of 91 octane and I had to fill with 101 octane (most likely leaded). The car ran fine, and I felt it had slightly more power.

Rubbing

Even after rolling the front fenders and shaving plastic from the rear fenders, the Falken RT660 tires at 275/35R18 are still rubbing front and rear. The fronts are now rubbing at the side markers. I need to somehow cut them but seal them so water doesn’t get in, or completely delete them.

If someone knows of a clean solution, please let me know.

For the rear, I need to shave more plastic, but I’m getting close to the fender metal piece and I may end up cutting it.

Rubbing marks on rear:

Wheels and Tires

For sure there is torque steer with 18x9.5 ET45 wheels. You’ll notice it easily with sudden acceleration from low speeds. But it’s not too bad and you get used to it.

The Falken RT660 held up very well on the track in terms of grip. But they took quite a beating on this right-turn-heavy track. The added camber definitely helps. But I feel that they don’t provide enough auditory feedback when you’re at the edge of grip like the Cup 2, which are a lot more squealy. And it seems that I need more camber than 2.5 up front because I’m getting more wear on the outer edge, and I’m starting to get shredding signs after one track day (see pic). The only choice I have on the EVS ball joints is going all the way to 3.8, which is too big of a jump and I still drive the car on the street. I’m not sure adding adjustable top camber plates on the stock struts is going to work, and it’s not cheap. Coilovers with adjustable top hats will solve this problem and the front rubbing. I’ll most likely upgrade to coilers sometime next year.

Chunking:

Tread peel:

Overheating

It was very cold that day, with low 40’s in the early morning and low 60’s in the afternoon. No overheating due to this and my lack of experience driving the car at full potential.

Auto Rev Match

I did experience missed rev matches and relative wheel locks at Turn 3, but my instructor noticed that I downshift as soon as I hit the brake and release the clutch later. That was probably to simplify the turn-in process and focus more on making a clean turn. But my instructor asked me to wait after I apply the brakes and downshift right before I turn in. I did that and it solved the missed rev matches in that corner. We’ll see if this technique solves it on other tracks. I’d rather not install the Acuity pedal spacer and have to do heal-and-toe.


Upcoming mods

RV6 Rear Sway Bar and rear camber and toe arms

My instructor told me that the car needs more rotation and I should add a rear sway bar, and at my driving level, I should be to handle the extra rotation and occasional oversteer. I’m still having traction control fully on in +R mode. That’ll give me more confidence. But soon I need drop the training wheels and turn it off (or use Hondata traction control when it’s time for a tune).

The instructor confirmed that 2.5 camber at the rear is too much, but unfortunately even with that the wheels are still rubbing. If I ended up cutting the metal in the rear fender, I’ll go down to 2.0 rear camber, or even less.

Sport exhaust or a top-mounted dash display/logger (AIM MXS 1.2 or Motec C125)

The instructor told me that it’s very hard to hear engine revving on the stock exhaust. He said I should normally rely on the engine sound to estimate my speed for turns. He recommended installing a loud sport exhaust to help with that. But I’m reluctant to do this because:

1. Sometimes I take the car out very early morning and I don’t want to upset my neighbors.
2. It doesn't add any notable horsepower.
3. I have yet to hear an FK8 exhaust that sounds nice. That’s an issue on all forced induction four bangers.
4. It adds drone at freeway speeds.

The other option is a dash display mounted on top of the dashboard. Since I’m tall, the stock gauge cluster is significantly below my eye level, and I feel that looking at them distracts me from focusing on turns. I can install a simple LED row for the RPM, but I’m thinking it might be worth it to get a good display/logger unit. The benefits are:

1. I can readily glance RPM (LED array), speed, lap time, and other important info, like oil and coolant temperatures.
2. It can log engine telemetry for post-track analysis, something that a GoPro camera or Garmin Catalyst can’t.
3. I can transfer it to any car I upgrade to in the future, and it doesn’t lose a lot of aftermarket value like exhausts.

I need to do more research as these options aren’t cheap, especially the Motec.

Roll Bar

I already have a thread about this. My conclusion so far is that it needs to be a holistic, very well though out safety solution that includes an after market seat and harness. I need more time to research and check with specialist shops in my area.

More power?

With my current skills and experience, I’m not taking full advantage of the stock power in turns. Yes I could use more power in the straights. For example, in the long straight between Turn 9 and Turn 1, the maximum speed I could get was around 130 mph. May be a few more if I exit Turn 9 faster or brake later for Turn 1. But I’ve seen footage of modded FK8’s hitting around 145 at the end of that straight. That cuts on lap time. But I feel that I need to get close to the limit of the stock power in turns before upgrading. So I’ll wait this one out.

Great write up, glad you had fun on your day out. I can provide some feed back on items.

Springs - Yes I cut the bump stops, this should help with some of the bumpiness you're experiencing, but you'll see even in my video at high speeds, thats just how Big Willow is. Just gotta commit!

Tires - The rubbing seems to be about normal, you'll need to shave more, and roll more up front. With enough rubbing, it'll even itself out on the fenders lol.

Tire Wear - The tires appear to be overcooked, could be a sign that you need to be smoother on corner entry and be delicate not to push the car into understeer territory. I don't have issues with chunking as bad. You paid for the WHOLE track, use the WHOLE track.

Pads - Try the PMU Club Racers. They will hold up better.

Driving lines - Take with a grain a salt, I know you're still in the beginning stages of tracking this car and learning big willow.

T1 - Good speed in and use the whole track.
T2 - Go in faster and let the turn scrub more speed, good apex spot and got on the gas early.
T3 - Stay farther right, as much as possible. Brake before downshifting and stay left after the turn. Go higher on the omega.
T5 - Hug the right side more and wait for the curb before apexing, this will give you a better exit setup for T6 so you dont scrub as much speed, your steering wheel is almost at a 90 degree. Enter this corner lighter so you can stay flat over the upcoming right crest.
T7 - Stay farther right on the crest and make sure you're flat before entering so you have plenty of space to track out to the left.
T8 - Go faster! You only hit 115 and you can easily be in the 130's going into this. You take the inside nicely, but stay farther left so you have a better apex for T9. Spot the inside cone/curb and once you spot it, full throttle.

I have an Evasive cage, Recaro RSGS and Schroth harness if you're interested lol.

Good stuff, keep it up!

 

[Sam3]

A valved exhaust would be the ideal addition. Quiet when want, loud when your stepping on it. Sequence is an excellent option… there are other valved exhaust options also like boost logic.

Thanks Tom, I'm also looking at Remus.

 

[Sam3]

I ran Endless MX-72 for track days 4-6, then ended up smearing them as well. Took my rotors off and honed them myself using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073DCRQK1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Really pretty easy. First time I was not aggressive enough with them and still had a touch of high spots. Note that this tool is a consumable, it's not going to last for ever, maybe 10 more rotors? WAG.

Then I switched to Carbotech XP10 pads. Using them both on and off the track (warm enough here for them on the street). If I was going to switch out pads at the track, I would have gone with the XP12s. Have run 2 track days with them and happy so far. I expect they will last me. Even happier with customer support.


Yea, been there done that. If you bring fuel, don't get the cheap WalMart gas cans. Get the VP Race or similar. Fueling is SO much faster! (and they work without trouble or leaking!)


Rev match only hangs for a second or so, therefore when using it you have to engage right away. I discovered this on the street, as I used to shift gears when coasting into corners.

Thanks, I'm going to order that kit. I tried to do it manually and it would take forever. I called around brake rotor resurfacing shops and they all refuse to do two piece rotors. They say it vibrates on their machine and they cannot guarantee a clean job. That's why the dealer couldn't do it I guess.

The VP Race cans are prohibited in California by CARB. Amazon refuses to ship them because they don't have anti-spill mechanism. I ended getting those:

https://www.amazon.com/No-Spill-140...40908266&sprefix=carb+gas+can,aps,129&sr=8-13

 

[b2point0h]

Thanks, I'm going to order that kit. I tried to do it manually and it would take forever. I called around brake rotor resurfacing shops and they all refuse to do two piece rotors. They say it vibrates on their machine and they cannot guarantee a clean job. That's why the dealer couldn't do it I guess.

The VP Race cans are prohibited in California by CARB. Amazon refuses to ship them because they don't have anti-spill mechanism. I ended getting those:

https://www.amazon.com/No-Spill-1405-2-1-2-Gallon-Poly/dp/B000W72GBC/ref=sr_1_13?crid=2ZDP98TFRIZ0C&keywords=carb+gas+can&qid=1640908266&sprefix=carb+gas+can,aps,129&sr=8-13

Those cans suck. Get the VP ones on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3525686808...3lcPJxg:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!92679!US!-1

 

[Sam3]

Great write up, glad you had fun on your day out. I can provide some feed back on items.

Springs - Yes I cut the bump stops, this should help with some of the bumpiness you're experiencing, but you'll see even in my video at high speeds, thats just how Big Willow is. Just gotta commit!

Ok I'm going to cut them. Yep, the instructor said, "It just needs a lot of commitment". You'd easily mistake this quote for marriage

Tires - The rubbing seems to be about normal, you'll need to shave more, and roll more up front. With enough rubbing, it'll even itself out on the fenders lol.

Yeah, I need to figure out how to cleanly cut those side markers.

Tire Wear - The tires appear to be overcooked, could be a sign that you need to be smoother on corner entry and be delicate not to push the car into understeer territory. I don't have issues with chunking as bad. You paid for the WHOLE track, use the WHOLE track.

I agree, I tend to pinch and am still not smooth with turn in. I'm hoping that the rear sway bar would solve some of the understeer scrubbing.

Pads - Try the PMU Club Racers. They will hold up better.

Driving lines - Take with a grain a salt, I know you're still in the beginning stages of tracking this car and learning big willow.

T1 - Good speed in and use the whole track.
T2 - Go in faster and let the turn scrub more speed, good apex spot and got on the gas early.
T3 - Stay farther right, as much as possible. Brake before downshifting and stay left after the turn. Go higher on the omega.
T5 - Hug the right side more and wait for the curb before apexing, this will give you a better exit setup for T6 so you dont scrub as much speed, your steering wheel is almost at a 90 degree. Enter this corner lighter so you can stay flat over the upcoming right crest.
T7 - Stay farther right on the crest and make sure you're flat before entering so you have plenty of space to track out to the left.
T8 - Go faster! You only hit 115 and you can easily be in the 130's going into this. You take the inside nicely, but stay farther left so you have a better apex for T9. Spot the inside cone/curb and once you spot it, full throttle.

Thanks a lot, Brandon! This is very valuable feedback, and I will use these guidelines next time I'm on this track.

I have an Evasive cage, Recaro RSGS and Schroth harness if you're interested lol.

Good stuff, keep it up!

Yep, hopefully in the next month or so I'll settle on a safety setup.

 

[MadMage]

The VP Race cans are prohibited in California by CARB. Amazon refuses to ship them because they don't have anti-spill mechanism. I ended getting those:

https://www.amazon.com/No-Spill-140...40908266&sprefix=carb+gas+can,aps,129&sr=8-13

I get it. My no spill ones from WalMart, the one of two that worked, but leaked when I swapped with the non-working one) took something like 8-10 minutes to pour out the 5 gallons in it. If your's don't work, let us know. I'm sure we can figure out something to help you out.

 

[pwrofdrm]

Anyone know if a set of 4 255/40/18 fit in the trunk? I drive my car to the track, a set of 245/40/18 RT660 fit just fine with a little extra room on 8.5” wheels. I’d like to go up to 255/40 or 255/35 next season but want to make sure they’ll fit.

 

[MadMage]

Anyone know if a set of 4 255/40/18 fit in the trunk? I drive my car to the track, a set of 245/40/18 RT660 fit just fine with a little extra room on 8.5” wheels. I’d like to go up to 255/40 or 255/35 next season but want to make sure they’ll fit.

My 255/35R18s fit with plenty of room. Two flat side by side towards the front, the rear two leaning on the front ones and each other. I use a stretch cargo net to keep them in place.

With 255/40's the first two might not lay flat side by side, but even having one canted a bit you should have plenty of room.

 

[Sam3]

I get it. My no spill ones from WalMart, the one of two that worked, but leaked when I swapped with the non-working one) took something like 8-10 minutes to pour out the 5 gallons in it. If your's don't work, let us know. I'm sure we can figure out something to help you out.

Thanks! I bought them about a month ago from O'Reilly and never used them. And after what @b2point0h said, I'm going to return them and order the VP ones from eBay.

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