**The FK8 Track Junkie Thread!!**

[AlphaDigital]

Last event in the books yesterday. Arrived at the track and it was a whopping 38 degrees out! but as temps warmed up during the day, we ended the day at 70 degrees. Cooling was no problem!

So much to reflect and work on in the off season. Cant wait to start planning out 2022.

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[CaptClutch]

What sort of Camber/Toe setup are you all running for track? I'm still learning and just going with the shops guidance.

Current setup -
Front: -3.5 camber, +1mm toe out (that's on each side)
Rear: -3.75 camber, -1mm toe in (also each side)

Feedback on current setup: I noticed what felt like wheel hop (where I wasn't getting it before) when turning at speed. I did achieve new PBs on 2 different course configurations but this could have been due to colder ambient temps, October in Utah, giving me more power. Otherwise this setup felt good and the rear of the car seemed to rotate easier.

Former setup -
Front: -3.5 camber, +0.5 mm toe out
Rear -1.5 camber, -0.5mm toe in

Feedback on former setup: Going from stock to this setup I noticed a great deal of improvement on turn-in. I also noticed a little bit more even tread wear on my tires, the courses I drive here in Utah are counter-clockwise so my front right tire gets the most wear/tear. Never noticed any "wheel hop" at these numbers

I feel like the sweet spot for the rear is somewhere between the 2 setups I've tried. Perhaps -2 or -2.5

 

[b2point0h]

-2/2.2 camber 0 toe all around

 

[Dave B]

What sort of Camber/Toe setup are you all running for track? I'm still learning and just going with the shops guidance.

Current setup -
Front: -3.5 camber, +1mm toe out (that's on each side)
Rear: -3.75 camber, -1mm toe in (also each side)

Feedback on current setup: I noticed what felt like wheel hop (where I wasn't getting it before) when turning at speed. I did achieve new PBs on 2 different course configurations but this could have been due to colder ambient temps, October in Utah, giving me more power. Otherwise this setup felt good and the rear of the car seemed to rotate easier.

Former setup -
Front: -3.5 camber, +0.5 mm toe out
Rear -1.5 camber, -0.5mm toe in

Feedback on former setup: Going from stock to this setup I noticed a great deal of improvement on turn-in. I also noticed a little bit more even tread wear on my tires, the courses I drive here in Utah are counter-clockwise so my front right tire gets the most wear/tear. Never noticed any "wheel hop" at these numbers

I feel like the sweet spot for the rear is somewhere between the 2 setups I've tried. Perhaps -2 or -2.5

Thats a lot of camber and a fair bit of toe, particularly at the rear. What tires are you running? Why do you want toe in at the rear? The car is very stable at zero rear toe.

 

[CaptClutch]

Thats a lot of camber and a fair bit of toe, particularly at the rear. What tires are you running? Why do you want toe in at the rear? The car is very stable at zero rear toe.

I'm running 265/35/18 street tires (200TW) and on stock struts + springs. From what I've gathered through various google searches a little toe in on the rear helps it rotate. Far as how much camber and toe I just went with what the shop recommended and now I'm experimenting with it on the track.

 

[metal_driver]

-2:7 front, stock rear.

 

[EPSi2FKR]

Had my first track day since June. Since then did the front ball joints at -3.4 and finally put on the 93 octane Hondata basemap. No overheating, highest water temp was 222 but usually around 205. I have a 2020 and stock intercooler, which I think is one of our car’s best chances to not overheat. But my IATs are 105-120.

The good: did my first ever solo runs without an instructor!!! Very even tire wear. No offs, consistently faster.

The bad: I have out grown the Girodisc S/S pads for the track. I had brake fade for the first time—scary but manageable with some engine braking. The pads overheated midway though the session. Ordered Paragon P5 for the daily (the Girodisc S/S is out of stock) and finally going race with the R5 for the next track day!!! Check the burnt pad material on the rotors!

 

[b2point0h]

I'm running 265/35/18 street tires (200TW) and on stock struts + springs. From what I've gathered through various google searches a little toe in on the rear helps it rotate. Far as how much camber and toe I just went with what the shop recommended and now I'm experimenting with it on the track.

Yeah I’d set that toe back to zero until you’ve got more experience and data on current setup. I have stock sways and no issues with rotation.

Lots of vids on my YouTube with good data on 0 toe, -2/-2.3 camber. Link in sig.

 

[Sam3]

Had my first track day (HPDE) at Buttonwillow this past weekend (or two days if you count Sat and Sun). The car is 100% OEM stock. No bolt-ons, tunes, or suspension mods. The only thing different is the Limited Edition wheels (BBS) and tires (Cup 2).

Experience

It was a good experience. I’m hooked! I’m looking forward to more track days. It was an eye opener, though. You think you’re fast till you hit the track. A corner worker told me at the end I was using 4 out of 10 of the car potential, LOL! I’m looking forward to build experience and improve. I realize that my car in its stock form is significantly slower than mod’ed cars. But I’m reluctant to do any mods until I start hitting the true limit of the car in its current form. Yes the car was sliding and screeching at the track, but I feel that these are artificial limits created by my inexperience, and a more competent driver can drive the car much faster without hitting those limits. So I want to start with the driver mods. Once I feel that I’m approaching the true limits of the car, I will start modding. May be by then the 11th gen Type R would be out, and I’ll switch (I’m liking what I’m seeing so far). But Honda must solve the overhearing issues in the new gen, which takes me to the next topic.

Overheating

The temperature throughout the two days ranged from 66° early morning to around 82° late afternoon. In most sessions, I didn’t experience overheating. But in the late afternoon session when the temperature was 82°, the car overheated. I don’t have the exact number, but the temperature gauge showed double or more than the amount of temperature the car normally shows. The car didn’t go into limp mode, and I didn’t notice a decrease in power. But if I’m driving at 4/10 of the car potential and it’s overheating at 82° in bone stock form, then the car has a real overheating issue on the track. And before you ask, I was not over-revving. May be bounced the rev limiter once or twice in these two days.

Some excitement (went into a full cloud of dust with zero visibility generated by a car going off track at high speed).

 

[AlphaDigital]

I'm running 265/35/18 street tires (200TW) and on stock struts + springs. From what I've gathered through various google searches a little toe in on the rear helps it rotate. Far as how much camber and toe I just went with what the shop recommended and now I'm experimenting with it on the track.

Just my opinion, but if its rotation youre after, Id play with tire pressures and sway bars instead of toe, purely because if youre driving your car on the street with toe settings that arent zeroed, youre prematurely wearing your tires even if its minimal amounts.

Im a frugal dude, and saving what I can where I can is always something im conscious of lol, which is also why I run two different sets of wheels, street, and race setups to save on tires.

 

[AlphaDigital]

Had my first track day since June. Since then did the front ball joints at -3.4 and finally put on the 93 octane Hondata basemap. No overheating, highest water temp was 222 but usually around 205. I have a 2020 and stock intercooler, which I think is one of our car’s best chances to not overheat. But my IATs are 105-120.

The good: did my first ever solo runs without an instructor!!! Very even tire wear. No offs, consistently faster.

The bad: I have out grown the Girodisc S/S pads for the track. I had brake fade for the first time—scary but manageable with some engine braking. The pads overheated midway though the session. Ordered Paragon P5 for the daily (the Girodisc S/S is out of stock) and finally going race with the R5 for the next track day!!! Check the burnt pad material on the rotors!

I got to drive a CTR with R5s around a track for a Track Night In America in event. Youll love the R5s bite, maybe cringe a bit at the noise. Otherwise look into GLOC R10s and higher or Winmax pads too, heard great things about both companies.

 

[Dave B]

From what I've gathered through various google searches a little toe in on the rear helps it rotate. Far as how much camber and toe I just went with what the shop recommended and now I'm experimenting with it on the track.

That sounds very odd. Normally if you want a car to rotate, you go to some rear toe out, not in. OTOH, it tends to make the car very unstable during braking and is much more of an autocross thing than for the track. On some rear drive cars, a bit of toe in at the rear is a good thing for stability and allowing early throttle use but the CTR is actually very stable. You certainly want to reconsider your wildly high rear camber. Having such a high amount of rear camber is a great way to induce rotation, but not in a good way.

 

[battledog]

The temperature throughout the two days ranged from 66° early morning to around 82° late afternoon. In most sessions, I didn’t experience overheating. But in the late afternoon session when the temperature was 82°, the car overheated. I don’t have the exact number, but the temperature gauge showed double or more than the amount of temperature the car normally shows. The car didn’t go into limp mode, and I didn’t notice a decrease in power. But if I’m driving at 4/10 of the car potential and it’s overheating at 82° in bone stock form, then the car has a real overheating issue on the track. And before you ask, I was not over-revving. May be bounced the rev limiter once or twice in these two days.

Cool! I was at the same event I think. It was my first time at Buttonwillow and I had no overheating issues on my 2019 CTR with no engine mods or tunes. Was running 2:04-2:07s consistently.

 

[Sam3]

Cool! I was at the same event I think. It was my first time at Buttonwillow and I had no overheating issues on my 2019 CTR with no engine mods or tunes. Was running 2:04-2:07s consistently.

I saw a white CTR with the only visible changes the wheels/tires (looked 18 with 35 profile) and lowered springs. It was running in the higher classes (HPDE 3/4) and hung around with a couple of Viper ACRs (late model and earlier mode) for a few laps. Not sure it was you.

I was running at least 10 seconds slower than these times. I don't know what would be considered overheating by looking at the gauge. I saw the temperature go up to the yellow arrow in the pic (I borrowed the gauge pic from another thread in this forum). It was the 3rd HPDE 1/2 session on Sunday around 3:30 pm.

 

[AlphaDigital]

Ive had mine that high before, maybe even a tad higher.

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