Teach A Noob About Changing Wheels

[Molatte]

Hello.

So I'm planning for an eventual change of wheels. The problem? I know nothing about changing wheels.

What are your tips? I'm picking out a set of wheels and tires to go with it but I don't know if I should get the rear tires to be a bit wider than the front or keep them the same.

Help please.

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[inv4zn]

Keep them the same. Staggered setups on a 180hp FWD econobox is asinine.

Also, please use the google.
http://www.custommagnums.com/forums/general-magnum-discussion/53192-wheels-tires-dummies.html

 

[Molatte]

Keep them the same. Staggered setups on a 180hp FWD econobox is asinine.

Also, please use the google.
http://www.custommagnums.com/forums/general-magnum-discussion/53192-wheels-tires-dummies.html

I'll take a look at the link, thanks.

Now another thing; what are spacers? I got my wheels picked out with some Yokohama tires (all season performance tires)

 

[inv4zn]

Spacers are metal discs that people put between their hub and their wheel, usually because they didn't research properly the first time and buy correct width/offset wheels.

They push the wheels out, but it's a point of failure, and there are things like lug bolt length to consider. I'd advise against, especially if you donno what you're doing. FWIW, most reputable tire places will not touch a car with spacers because it's a big liability for them.

 

[BarracksSi]

...but I don't know if I should get the rear tires to be a bit wider than the front or keep them the same.

If you go with a staggered setup (one pair wider than the other), you want more rubber on the wheels that do more work -- which in our case is the front wheels. Wider rear tires don't help with putting down power, braking, or reducing understeer. BUT, you also shouldn't be driving on public streets in a manner that reaches the limits of any tires you use, either -- so there's no need to waste time on a staggered setup unless you're racing (and by that point, you should also know whether you want drag or track tires, which brake pads you need, what alignment settings you prefer, etc).

What are your tips?

My tips?

- No all-season tires in winter (and, obviously, no summer tires in winter). Get a winter set if you see snow and ice, and it's good to go narrower than stock, too.

- Nothing wrong with stock sizes in general.

- tiresize.com -- use this to find a different size that fits within specs. Their Offset Calculator can give you [almost] everything you need to know.

Tire size tips:
* Outer circumference = no bigger than stock, but you can go smaller than stock if you have a good reason to do so, such as creating effectively shorter gearing for quicker acceleration at the track.
* Width = narrower for winter (better chance of cutting through snow and slush), wider for summer (higher cornering limits and acceleration, but worse gas mileage). Going wider runs the risk of rubbing on suspension or fenders, so either test-fit yourself or keep an eye on who's successfully using what.
* If you pick an unusual size, you may find it difficult to buy a replacement quickly if you get a flat. If Tire Rack lists fifteen different tires in your desired size, you should be fine; if they list just two, your local shop may not have any in stock, no matter how awesome the shop is.

Wheel tips:
* Nothing wrong with stock sizes. In autocross, Stock classes require that any replacement wheels be the same specs as OEM (so you end up seeing fat R-compound tires squeezed onto normal wheels).
* Lighter is better almost every time. Light and strong is usually not cheap, though.
* Offset, offset, offset. Even if you get wheels of OEM diameter and width, and tires of OEM width, you can throw things out of whack with a wildly different offset -- rubbing components under the fender, worsening handling, etc.

Tire-and-wheel-together tips:
* Pick a tire width and wheel model first.
* Match the wheel width to the tire width. Check the tire's specifications to see what the manufacturer lists as the recommended rim width.
* "Stretch" is for slammed, "stance" people. Everything functionally important is made worse when the tire is too narrow for the rim.
* Low-profile sidewalls are a mixed bag. They can give better road feel, but don't absorb bumps and cracks as well. You're more likely to damage a rim if you're using 20's instead of 16's.

WHAT I WOULD BUY FOR MYSELF:
Summer performance tires in 235- or 245-width on 18x8" wheels, hopefully under 22 lbs per rim; and dedicated winter tires, 215-width, on 16" wheels.

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